To eliminate c-clips or not? - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 25 Old 09-19-2018, 12:29 AM Thread Starter
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To eliminate c-clips or not?

I am in the process of tearing my car apart for another round of upgrades. Changing over to a 31 spline diff and I see LMR sells a Strange axle/c-clip eliminator kit. Anyone using that kit want to share your experience?

A lot of what I'm reading says in general for a daily driver they suck, they leak all the time, they're a pain in the ass to install and if you are going to upgrade, just do 9 inch ends. I am also upgrading to 93 cobra 4lug disc brakes with NRC brackets, so 9 inch ends isn't going to be an option for me (I don't think anyway).

Full weight hatch, A-5, 4.10s, 330-350whp N/A, a sticky DOT tire, and maybe add a little dry shot in the future. At what point should you consider eliminating the c-clip axles?


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post #2 of 25 Old 09-19-2018, 07:11 AM
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When you put slicks on the car and go drag racing. Otherwise not really needed.


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post #3 of 25 Old 09-19-2018, 01:04 PM
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I ran moser c clip elims over 20 years ago on my 91 LX and they sucked. they leaked and were a constant problem, until the car got wrecked in 1997. So until recently i was running mosers with c clips in my 93 that i got shortly after the LX was killed. they have worked fine for over 20 years, and will as long as you dont break an axle. with my new combo i stepped up to 35s and a spool and went with 9" housing ends. I am running stock drums in the back and can tell you that the moser 9" ends for stock drums fits perfect. So if you want to use a 93 cobra conversion you should have no problem.
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post #4 of 25 Old 09-19-2018, 01:27 PM
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I only have a few hundred trouble free miles on my strange c clip eliminators so it’s early for me to say. Honestly I wouldn’t faq with them if you’ve got rear disc.
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post #5 of 25 Old 09-30-2018, 09:08 AM
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I run strange elims on mine and they don't leak. Make sure the parts are clean, use good sealant, get the bolts tight and follow the directions, you should be good.

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post #6 of 25 Old 09-30-2018, 09:50 AM Thread Starter
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I run strange elims on mine and they don't leak. Make sure the parts are clean, use good sealant, get the bolts tight and follow the directions, you should be good.
Ha, I was just looking at the kit again from LMR and it states "for drum brakes only". I'm going to email Richard @ NRC and see what he says. Thanks for the feed back guys.

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post #7 of 25 Old 09-30-2018, 06:20 PM
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Strange axles without the c clip and NRC brackets are doable. I run them on mine. If you use 15'' rims you have to use the small rotor disc. I had to double up the caliper bracket spacers, and use longer bolts. the wheels get push out about 3/8 of an inch. If you are using a 28''x 10'' tire, you will have to roll the fender lip.
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post #8 of 25 Old 10-01-2018, 03:33 PM
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just get 9" ends with the 8.8 bolt pattern

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post #9 of 25 Old 10-02-2018, 07:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lunytuned View Post
Ha, I was just looking at the kit again from LMR and it states "for drum brakes only". I'm going to email Richard @ NRC and see what he says. Thanks for the feed back guys.
I think they probably all say that. I cut out the center of the drum backing plate to use as a spacer of sorts. This guy did a nice write up with pics using the method I come up with a while back.

http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,31850.0.html

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post #10 of 25 Old 10-02-2018, 08:11 AM
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Honestly, I wouldn't do it. They leak all the time. I think you'll regret it.

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post #11 of 25 Old 10-02-2018, 08:53 AM
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Weld on some 9” ends if you want to eliminate c-clips.

Stock block 306, V1 T-trim, AFM B-451 cam, TFS Twisted Wedge, Holley Systemax, A1000, Snow Meth, TKO 600, Team Z, Strange, MM, Lakewood and Moser helps me go forward fast.
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post #12 of 25 Old 10-03-2018, 03:56 AM
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Not really the warm and fuzzy I was looking for either, I did strange elims on my 8.8 with disc brakes. Never had a problem with clips, just went with a spool and didn’t want to chance it. 500 miles and no leaks so far. Is there a product quality issue somewhere? Are they leaking at the plate or through the bearing thrust seal?
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post #13 of 25 Old 10-03-2018, 11:31 AM
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Hell, I got 9" ends on mine and I have one side that will NOT stop leaking since the day I got it built. I siliconed the OD of the bearing to seal it into the axle housing and it still leaks...

ks


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post #14 of 25 Old 10-03-2018, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KEVIN$ View Post
Hell, I got 9" ends on mine and I have one side that will NOT stop leaking since the day I got it built. I siliconed the OD of the bearing to seal it into the axle housing and it still leaks...

ks
.

What a pain in the ass!!! 2 years, no leaks on mine! Hope I didn’t jinx myself, I’m checking when I go home

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post #15 of 25 Old 10-03-2018, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by AtomicCoupe View Post
.

What a pain in the ass!!! 2 years, no leaks on mine! Hope I didnít jinx myself, Iím checking when I go home
Do NOT check it! Just pretend this conversation never happened..

ks
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post #16 of 25 Old 10-03-2018, 03:01 PM
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Yep! Looks good from here!
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post #17 of 25 Old 10-03-2018, 03:42 PM
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Roger that!! What leak?
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Stock block 306, V1 T-trim, AFM B-451 cam, TFS Twisted Wedge, Holley Systemax, A1000, Snow Meth, TKO 600, Team Z, Strange, MM, Lakewood and Moser helps me go forward fast.
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post #18 of 25 Old 10-04-2018, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KEVIN$ View Post
Hell, I got 9" ends on mine and I have one side that will NOT stop leaking since the day I got it built. I siliconed the OD of the bearing to seal it into the axle housing and it still leaks...

ks
is it going around the bearing or is it going through the bearings?

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post #19 of 25 Old 10-04-2018, 11:48 AM
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is it going around the bearing or is it going through the bearings?
No clue but since I siliconed the outer surface real good and the leak never slowed down I have to think it's going through the bearing seals. Which is why I have made an effort to replace the bearing yet..

ks


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post #20 of 25 Old 10-04-2018, 07:48 PM
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I have mosers on my car one side was leaking when I bought the car never could get it to seal called moser they say for drag racing only. If you drive on the street they will leak due to side loading and warpage. My question is why don't they make them out of steel for the street.

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post #21 of 25 Old 10-05-2018, 01:27 PM
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The moser C clip axles I had in mine for 20 years were 28 spline, with a stock track loc. the splines were a little twisted, but not bad. It went high 1.4 60' times with 26x10s forever, probably thousands of passes making between 430 to 540 rwhp with the turbo kit on the 302 as it got upgraded. at 300rwhp, with an aftermarket c clip axle itll never break an axle with what you are doing, especially if you are running 31s. even with a little nitrous kit. you get bigger than 31s with a limited slip and it might break the carrier, but the axle wont move.

FWIW, i had a buddy with the stange c clip elims a long time ago and they didnt leak. but i wouldnt even bother at the point you are at.
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post #22 of 25 Old 10-05-2018, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
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The moser C clip axles I had in mine for 20 years were 28 spline, with a stock track loc. the splines were a little twisted, but not bad. It went high 1.4 60' times with 26x10s forever, probably thousands of passes making between 430 to 540 rwhp with the turbo kit on the 302 as it got upgraded. at 300rwhp, with an aftermarket c clip axle itll never break an axle with what you are doing, especially if you are running 31s. even with a little nitrous kit. you get bigger than 31s with a limited slip and it might break the carrier, but the axle wont move.

FWIW, i had a buddy with the stange c clip elims a long time ago and they didnt leak. but i wouldnt even bother at the point you are at.
I think that's what I'm going to do, just put the 31 spline diff and axles in and call it a day. My short time is probably only going to be in the 1.6-1.7 area N/A if it actually hooks. I won't be on full slicks either. Not even sure what tire I would be looking at, maybe the M/T ET streets or something like that. When the bottle comes or, if my wife is ever done remodeling the ####ing house and I get to build a 363, I'll re-visit the diff.

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post #23 of 25 Old 10-06-2018, 12:57 AM
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I am a big believer in bias plys. when i had my ls1 z28 6 speed i tore the 3.42s in the 10 bolt up pretty badly with the drag radials shocking the rear end. then i put 4.10s in the 10 bolt and bought some bias ply et streets. everyone told me it would break in no time. never had another problem out of it. i think sliding the clutch and having a bias sidewall absorb some of the shock goes a long way. as long as you arent hitting it with a trans brake or wot and dumping the clutch on the bottle you may not even need to worry about it again.
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post #24 of 25 Old 06-11-2019, 12:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AtomicCoupe View Post
Weld on some 9Ē ends if you want to eliminate c-clips.
with the 9in tubes are the brackets in the factory position or do you have to them welded on.. Also you don't need c-clip elim?

I'm about to redo my rear end....

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post #25 of 25 Old Today, 04:10 PM
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I think that's what I'm going to do, just put the 31 spline diff and axles in and call it a day. My short time is probably only going to be in the 1.6-1.7 area N/A if it actually hooks. I won't be on full slicks either. Not even sure what tire I would be looking at, maybe the M/T ET streets or something like that. When the bottle comes or, if my wife is ever done remodeling the ####ing house and I get to build a 363, I'll re-visit the diff.
That's the ticket.
I ran 26x10.5 ET Streets on the stock axles for a million and 3 (probably 300+) passes launching at 5000-6000(depending on track conditions) 60' in the 1.69-1.72 region and never had an issue.
When I added a little power (~370rwhp) I swapped the stock 28 spline for moser 31's with c-clips and threw a TrueTrac in it.
Not a tonne of passes, but, low 1.6's (probably high... maybe mid 1.5's in it if I can figure it out... currently launching at ~6500rpm, think I need to back it down) and so far so good.
The bias tire will absorb some of the shock, and, they like to roll-over/spin some too boot (avoid bog) with the manual trans, so... that helps.
Start off with plenty of air in the tires and lots of rpm to ensure "spin", then work back air and rpms till they are just rolling over.
Don't be afraid of it... bog=break... and the new ET Streets will actually launch pretty good even when spinning... high 1.6's when spinning through most of first for me.

Edit to add; all of the above is in a full weight car... absolutely no weight reduction... forget exactly, but approaching 3400lbs race weight...

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