Parachute mount and bumper specs - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 43 Old 09-06-2018, 05:03 PM Thread Starter
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Parachute mount and bumper specs

Looking to test out my new tuning bender and been searching the rule book for general specs on diameter, wall thickness and such for making a tube parachute mount and bumper. 1 5/8 dom is what I see some manufactures using. I want to make this a quick disconnect piece, so the upright arm can disconnect. Anyone know off the top of their head? I’ll keep searching the rule book.....thanks!

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post #2 of 43 Old 09-07-2018, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
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All I’m finding is specs on chute anchor location, release cable location, and release cable mounting. I haven’t seen much else noting the materials. Would I be able to get away with 1 1/2” dom as a rear “bumper” and have the chute mount slide into it? Or did everyone just buy their kits?

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post #3 of 43 Old 09-07-2018, 06:14 PM
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I bought this:

Wolfe Race Craft - Detail

Install was easy.


1989 Saleen 414 358cid SBF 2.8L Kenne Bell S/C
26 X 8.5 Hoosier
Best 1/4 mile time 8.623 @ 159.82 mph with a 1.34 60' (5.57 1/8th at 128)
Best 1/8 mile time 5.339 @ 133.46 mph with a 1.29 60'
08' Bullitt #4097 N/A 340ish RWHP <<<<<FOR SALE!
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post #4 of 43 Old 09-08-2018, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
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I pulled all this off so far, added up to 42lbs. I’m wondering how much rigidity the actual cross beam bumper adds to the new edge cars. From what I see, it bolts to sheet metal and nothing else really, wonder if I can get away with running it as is until the bumper is made? I plan on using 3/8” plate with 1 1/2” dom as the new bumper with a tube to slide in parachute mount. So all that weight I just tore off will probably be put right back on!
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post #5 of 43 Old 09-08-2018, 08:59 PM
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I'm guessing but my front bumper support is probably .06thk 4130 tubing. It's really thin. I had to turn my MIG down really low to weld some brackets onto it otherwise it would burn right through.

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post #6 of 43 Old 09-08-2018, 10:13 PM Thread Starter
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I’m wondering how much body twist is happening, I took my front off with the turbo install 5 years ago and never put anything back on. Maybe that’s been my traction problems the whole time!!!
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post #7 of 43 Old 09-09-2018, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrucialProspect View Post
Iím wondering how much body twist is happening, I took my front off with the turbo install 5 years ago and never put anything back on. Maybe thatís been my traction problems the whole time!!!
If the cage it done right there will be minimal twist but the more bars (within reason) the less twist.

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post #8 of 43 Old 09-10-2018, 06:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrucialProspect View Post
Iím wondering how much body twist is happening, I took my front off with the turbo install 5 years ago and never put anything back on. Maybe thatís been my traction problems the whole time!!!
I don't think you are making enough HP to worry about twist...
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1989 Saleen 414 358cid SBF 2.8L Kenne Bell S/C
26 X 8.5 Hoosier
Best 1/4 mile time 8.623 @ 159.82 mph with a 1.34 60' (5.57 1/8th at 128)
Best 1/8 mile time 5.339 @ 133.46 mph with a 1.29 60'
08' Bullitt #4097 N/A 340ish RWHP <<<<<FOR SALE!
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post #9 of 43 Old 09-21-2018, 02:47 AM Thread Starter
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Challenge accepted!

Maybe I’m overthinking it, but I’ll pull the bumper again tonight and take a closer look, but there doesn’t seem to be much support tied into anything that would not rip off. Flexing may occur, but if the bar bolts onto sheet metal that’s held on by tack welds and body sealer, it may be effective in acting as a crumple zone for impact, not so much catching air in a chute and essentially stopping a car.
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post #10 of 43 Old 09-21-2018, 08:16 AM
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Challenge accepted!

Maybe Iím overthinking it, but Iíll pull the bumper again tonight and take a closer look, but there doesnít seem to be much support tied into anything that would not rip off. Flexing may occur, but if the bar bolts onto sheet metal thatís held on by tack welds and body sealer, it may be effective in acting as a crumple zone for impact, not so much catching air in a chute and essentially stopping a car.
The chute cord shouldn't be anchored to sheet metal. The chute mount can be since it's only holding it up.

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post #11 of 43 Old 09-21-2018, 09:14 AM
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The chute support bolts to the rear sub-frame. Not the same as sheet metal.

1989 Saleen 414 358cid SBF 2.8L Kenne Bell S/C
26 X 8.5 Hoosier
Best 1/4 mile time 8.623 @ 159.82 mph with a 1.34 60' (5.57 1/8th at 128)
Best 1/8 mile time 5.339 @ 133.46 mph with a 1.29 60'
08' Bullitt #4097 N/A 340ish RWHP <<<<<FOR SALE!
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post #12 of 43 Old 09-21-2018, 10:49 AM
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This is my set up if u see it. Little over kill..36330_1537541346201.jpeg
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post #13 of 43 Old 09-23-2018, 11:57 PM Thread Starter
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Tore apart the rear end again today, sure enough, it is bolted to the rear subframe.

Rear mount receiver will protrude rear bumper and the chute mount will be close to rear license plate, the cord will be on the mount itself where it slides into the receiver. That way when removing the chute, the whole system can come off in one piece.
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post #14 of 43 Old 09-24-2018, 03:43 AM
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Our plan is to come off the rear brace for the back half bars which is welded in between the frame rails as far back as we could go. I'll gut the rear sheet metal that hangs down for the parachute mount to punch rearward with gusset braces. Gonna have to seal up the trunk area anyways.





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Dart 348ci, Ed Curtis cam/valvetrain, Precision 76mm, Holley Dominator EFI, CNP ignition, tons of Holler EFI small parts, 4"dp, 4R70W w/T-brake, new suspension coming soon.

Little 750rwhp at 6,000rpms and only 10lbs of boost before we just got tired of playing with clutches. New 4R70W and we are turning it up. Expecting 1,000rwhp.
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post #15 of 43 Old 09-24-2018, 03:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blown and strocked View Post
This is my set up if u see it. Little over kill..Attachment 963536
I like that. Don't you have a build thread somewhere with more of the chassis work photos

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Dart 348ci, Ed Curtis cam/valvetrain, Precision 76mm, Holley Dominator EFI, CNP ignition, tons of Holler EFI small parts, 4"dp, 4R70W w/T-brake, new suspension coming soon.

Little 750rwhp at 6,000rpms and only 10lbs of boost before we just got tired of playing with clutches. New 4R70W and we are turning it up. Expecting 1,000rwhp.
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post #16 of 43 Old 11-02-2018, 03:20 PM Thread Starter
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Figured I’d post up my results so far, doesn’t really rate a build thread. But I wanted to build one and maybe save some money.

I started by bending a piece of 1 3/4” dom,
4F54E6F7-6215-4548-8C83-BDDB39C311CF_1541186015497.jpeg
Welded on 1/4” plates to mount to the stock location.B9E083B3-BCA6-474C-8A4B-64F4C32A1CC1_1541186309434.jpg
I also welded on 3 tabs for the lower bumper support. 8CCC3192-8E50-4850-9FC6-BAF25FDF9725_1541186221911.jpg
I didn’t like how other mounts only used the 4 bolts to mount the chute bar, so I used the existing bolt holes under the rear subframe to tie into with more support.
344B9E67-1E7B-4D77-901E-1567EB0D53FB_1541186399153.jpg
Hopefully I’ll get it completely welded tonight, so I can start on the slide in hitch for the upright chute mount.
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post #17 of 43 Old 11-04-2018, 06:14 PM Thread Starter
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B4217FE5-69FC-42FE-BE10-0EA4A35C584D_1541373231490.jpgC3953E14-9BCD-4963-B759-1A0A4C9EABC4_1541373138724.jpg650E508A-0B85-489E-A8AD-7F0C7315F5B8_1541372680171.jpg
Receiver finished this weekend and ready for powder coat. I think it’s plenty strong and overall lost 7.4lbs compared to stock steel bumper.
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post #18 of 43 Old 11-04-2018, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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Now all I have to do is cut the hole through the bumper and take measurements for the actual parachute hitch.
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post #19 of 43 Old 12-12-2018, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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Made some more headway this weekend, got the hole cut in the bumper,0C55FC90-8B83-43EC-B391-E15AE40D445C_1544648352910.jpg
The mount bar cut,
EF9B748C-19AF-42E3-AF4E-F0602ADB4157_1544648404831.jpg
shackle cut out of 3/8 2” box tubing
And all tacked in place
7295166B-3644-4077-AD02-6FEB97581B80_1544648472017.jpg
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post #20 of 43 Old 12-12-2018, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
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I used 1 1/2” dom .10 thickness for the slide in hitch. Shackle was made using 2” box tubing, 3/8.” I tapered it after cutting out the third side, and hole cut with the minimum 1/2” material surrounding it, also has 3/8” grade 8 with 1/2” sleeve as per nhra spec.

Instead of getting too fancy on bends for the upright, I decided to do a single 20 degree bend using 1 1/4” dom. Could have went smaller to save weight, but that was the smallest I had on hand.
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post #21 of 43 Old 12-12-2018, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
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Some more pictures of the hole cut, I started with a pilot hole and used die grinder to enlarge to the opening
AD114FD6-93E1-43C4-A988-8AECEE41872A_1544649411168.jpg
Initial upright idea
C2B88C57-9824-479A-B97A-AC71E9314EBE_1544649461329.jpg
And final product
8BF186E0-B750-4FD5-B44C-2ACA6B9CD65D_1544649505469.jpg
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post #22 of 43 Old 12-12-2018, 04:20 PM
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Does the trunk still open with it in place?

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post #23 of 43 Old 12-12-2018, 04:20 PM Thread Starter
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Next I’ll be making the parachute mount plate and welding it using the 2 seams on the sides of the upright, and finally cutting it to final height.
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post #24 of 43 Old 12-12-2018, 04:22 PM Thread Starter
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Does the trunk still open with it in place?

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It actually does still, even though I will end up cutting it shorter, I see no need for it to set so high with the angle.
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post #25 of 43 Old 12-12-2018, 04:53 PM Thread Starter
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Not really sure if there is a reason most of the chute mount uprights butt into the parachute mount plate, if anyone can shed some light on that? I just plan on welding the plate along the length of the angle of that upright, hence why I went with a single bend, instead of an s shaped bend.
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post #26 of 43 Old 12-13-2018, 02:05 PM Thread Starter
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Also, any thoughts on release cable mounting and location? I’ve seen some mounts use an offset eyelet to locate the release cable, didn’t know if it was necessary even though rulebook states it must be within 12” (if I’m reading that correctly) “release housing”

I was thinking of having the cable come through somewhere between the trunk lid and the rear bumper as to not interfere with either operation.
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post #27 of 43 Old 12-20-2018, 01:51 PM
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This is my setup hope it helps
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post #28 of 43 Old 12-20-2018, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
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I’ve seen a lot of the box style setups, can’t really see how they’re different than this style, maybe a little less weight? Different chute? I see it still let’s you use the trunk as well, very nice setup, is there a way you can measure the angle at which the parachute faces upwards? I feel like my 20 degrees may not face it upwards enough.
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post #29 of 43 Old 12-20-2018, 06:23 PM
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As you know since it's just holding the groceries the most important thing is that is pushes the chute into the air stream. Otherwise you can be as low or high tech as your mind can create.

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post #30 of 43 Old 12-21-2018, 04:34 AM Thread Starter
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And that’s where the different chute activation devices come into play? I’ve never used the spring style chute, but like you said it’s not anchored there, it just holds the laundry and feeds into the airstream.
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post #31 of 43 Old 12-21-2018, 01:35 PM
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That will be a spring style chute. Pretty much had the same set up u had. Redid the chassi and it got moved down.

Asked the same question. Got an answer it was lighter. Not sure the angle. Car is a few hours away from me.

What are u using to launch the chute?
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post #32 of 43 Old 12-21-2018, 03:28 PM Thread Starter
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Spring. Thanks for the help!
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post #33 of 43 Old 12-21-2018, 04:10 PM
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Internal Rocket. Thanks for the help!


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post #34 of 43 Old 12-21-2018, 04:24 PM Thread Starter
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Is that the technical term?
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post #35 of 43 Old 12-21-2018, 04:48 PM
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Is that the technical term?
I'm not YouTube savy enough so I failed at finding a video that shows a parachute being deployed via small rocket or explosive device.

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