Analyze my time slips - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 17 Old 07-01-2018, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
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Analyze my time slips

Got a good test and tune session last night, 6 runs. Haven’t had the car out at all this year, new trans, new Hoosier QTP’s, basically, I was relearning the car. All runs were 1/8 mile. Had traction issues at the top of first gear on all runs, and keep in mind, this is a complete stock rear end and suspension.

1.842 60’
4.970 330’
7.415 @ 101.4

1.829 60’
4.770 330’
7.15 @ 103.8

1.77 60’
4.876 330’
7.35 @ 96.4

??? 60’
4.684 330’
7.08 @ 100.2

1.68 60’
4.766 330’
7.2 @ 95.3

1.66 60’
4.523 330’
6.8 @ 98.7

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post #2 of 17 Old 07-02-2018, 12:40 PM
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why the big difference in MPH with no that much diff in 60'?


69.5 Maverick, 480 RWHP 363 NA, Faceplated TKO 600, 4.30 gears, 9", E70-14 Whitewalls. "Stock Appearing" Sleeper. 1.72, 11.49 @ 124.87
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post #3 of 17 Old 07-02-2018, 01:07 PM
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Pretty inconsistent E.T.'s and mph. ET could be mostly blamed on suspension, but there's a 7mph variation in mph, was any tuning changed between runs?

For everything that is worthwhile, there is a counterfeit.
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post #4 of 17 Old 07-02-2018, 03:44 PM Thread Starter
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No tuning was done, I was wondering the same thing, why was the highest mph not the best 60’? I’m sure there’s more in it, I got faster as the night went on because I was able to better control my burnouts, and gain more confidence with the car. Its not where I think it should be, but I think now the suspension is limiting me?
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post #5 of 17 Old 07-02-2018, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
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One consistent problem I had, like stated before, is that it was smoking the tires at the top of 1st gear. I’d shift to second when I reached redline which caused a small bog at second but it was actually smoking the tires, not going faster. The last two runs, I stayed in it a tad bit longer and it would start to grab traction again. Track wasn’t great, it was silly hot and humid, and I kept tire pressure at 14psi.
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post #6 of 17 Old 07-02-2018, 07:05 PM
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When your 60' gets quicker, sometimes the mph goes down because you do not have as much time (et) to accelerate the car. Sometimes the mph goes up because you have more momentum going for you. A lot of it depends on how much power you are making. Usually if my 60' gets better, my mph goers up. But I have 1,250+ hp at play on a small tire so momentum is HUGE!

1989 Saleen 414 358cid SBF 2.8L Kenne Bell S/C
26 X 8.5 Hoosier
Best 1/4 mile time 8.623 @ 159.82 mph with a 1.34 60' (5.57 1/8th at 128)
Best 1/8 mile time 5.339 @ 133.46 mph with a 1.29 60'
08' Bullitt #4097 N/A 340ish RWHP <<<<<FOR SALE!
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post #7 of 17 Old 07-02-2018, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
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I’m right under 700 to the wheels, turbo setup. I just can’t seem to keep it hooked, and it’s mvb, so I’m having a heck of a time shifting too. Lots of excuses huh?
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post #8 of 17 Old 07-02-2018, 07:29 PM Thread Starter
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I’m right under 700 to the wheels, turbo setup. I just can’t seem to keep it hooked, and it’s mvb, so I’m having a heck of a time shifting too. Lots of excuses huh?
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post #9 of 17 Old 07-02-2018, 07:53 PM
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The fact that you claim to have a "completely stock rear end and suspension" (if true) is the clue to your issues. Lol.

1989 Saleen 414 358cid SBF 2.8L Kenne Bell S/C
26 X 8.5 Hoosier
Best 1/4 mile time 8.623 @ 159.82 mph with a 1.34 60' (5.57 1/8th at 128)
Best 1/8 mile time 5.339 @ 133.46 mph with a 1.29 60'
08' Bullitt #4097 N/A 340ish RWHP <<<<<FOR SALE!
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post #10 of 17 Old 07-02-2018, 09:33 PM
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is this a stick car ? list your mods


96gt,svo intake,svo heads,mhs blower cams strim(2.65)pulley, IW 10% crank pulley,AFM powerpipe,60's,full fuel system,
sct2600,bbk longtubes & h pipe,4.10'water methanol.
new numbers 602rwhp,[email protected] at 3590 lbs.
best et [email protected]
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post #11 of 17 Old 07-02-2018, 09:45 PM Thread Starter
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Literally, completely stock from the driveshaft back. Axle, ratio, shafts, springs, shocks, everything except for wheels and tires.

I only wanna do this suspension and rear end once, and wanted this to be a good baseline as to “what I need to do.”

I’m debating going coilover or individual spring and shock, have no idea on who to choose or how to set it up. I really have no idea where to go from here, and could really use some advice. I’ve got the axle strengthening part figured out though....

Mods are roughly....4.6 2v twin 50mm turbos. Almost 700 to the wheels at 15lbs. Tubular front, slicks and skinnies, built 4r70w mvb trans brake. Gutted interior, No under hood accessories, battery relocated. Maybe 3200lbs with driver if I had to guess.
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post #12 of 17 Old 07-02-2018, 10:13 PM
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Lots of horsepower can be fun, having traction to plant that horsepower is a whole lot more fun.

For everything that is worthwhile, there is a counterfeit.
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post #13 of 17 Old 07-03-2018, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrucialProspect View Post
Literally, completely stock from the driveshaft back. Axle, ratio, shafts, springs, shocks, everything except for wheels and tires.

I only wanna do this suspension and rear end once, and wanted this to be a good baseline as to ďwhat I need to do.Ē

Iím debating going coilover or individual spring and shock, have no idea on who to choose or how to set it up. I really have no idea where to go from here, and could really use some advice. Iíve got the axle strengthening part figured out though....

Mods are roughly....4.6 2v twin 50mm turbos. Almost 700 to the wheels at 15lbs. Tubular front, slicks and skinnies, built 4r70w mvb trans brake. Gutted interior, No under hood accessories, battery relocated. Maybe 3200lbs with driver if I had to guess.
No need for coilovers for good improvement but they do offer adjustability that can allow you to fine tune the launches so you'll have to decide what exactly you want in the end. Having parts with adjustability can be a bit expensive but it's cheaper than doing it a second time b/c it wasn't done the first time or you just get the basics and be happy with it. You can send me an email if you want b/c there is a LOT of options to go with when setting up the rear suspension and there is a LOT of details to work out before you spend any $$. Go over every detail of the car and your goals so Plan Ahead!

Options:
Weight Jacker LCA's with stock springs and DBL adjustable rear shocks.
Stock location rear coilovers with stock type LCA's. Requires beefing up the upper shock mount sheet metal.
Offset rear coilovers with stock type LCA's. Requires a rear crossbar or sorts to mount the coilovers.

What are your plans for the rearend: spool or rebuild with a good posi unit?

ks


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Kevin Slaby
2002 GT 2V 902hp/820tq through the muffs.
http://baselinesuspensions.com/Projects/balrog.htm
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post #14 of 17 Old 07-03-2018, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
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Spool, 33 spline shafts and clip eliminators.

Only reason I considered coilovers is because when you price good springs and adjustable shocks, it’s not much more. Plus it seems like there is more adjustability with the coilovers.

I’m assuming I’ll need either a adjustable upper or lower control arm as well to fine tune pinion angle.

I’m trying to upload a video to show my launches, it wants to pull the left front wheel off the ground on initial hit and it squats the rear. Almost immediately you can see the front end come back down probably unloading and causing tire spin.
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post #15 of 17 Old 07-03-2018, 07:55 PM
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what does the car weigh?

'92GT, 427" and '93 "LXVO" coupe
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post #16 of 17 Old 07-03-2018, 09:26 PM
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What trans are you running?
Control arms are stock too?

92 ssp mustang coupe
Ford racing boss 427 540hp 555tq 1/4 mile 11.07 @127
AFR205cc heads w/58cc chambers
Trickflow R intake with box upper/90mm throttle body
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post #17 of 17 Old 07-04-2018, 01:31 AM Thread Starter
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I am going to attempt to figure that out this weekend, if I had to guess, 3200lbs. Built 4r70w, yes, stock control arms.
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