Transbrake Button Delay - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 20 Old 04-23-2018, 09:57 PM Thread Starter
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Transbrake Button Delay

I run pro tree, .4 second flash to green. I was always around .010 or less light, very rarely red. Just once in a very great while red.

Now I changed converters and I'm running .020 to .030 to the red side of .400 over and over.

I have a turbo car with bump box so I have to delay at the release button, not slow the trans solenoid. I can't slow the solenoid speed or it will mess up the bump.

Is there a cheap simple reliable delay box? I looked and can't find one. I need to put like a .031 delay on the brake release so I am back on my old reaction. I don't need a fancy box. I never bracket race. Just always .400 pro tree.



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post #2 of 20 Old 04-25-2018, 07:25 AM
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old school trick... push harder on the button. sounds funny but it works.

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post #3 of 20 Old 04-25-2018, 08:04 AM
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old school trick... push harder on the button. sounds funny but it works.
No doubt about that. Ask a professional bracket racer and you'll get 100 ways to "adjust" without making huge changes. Is a delay box out of the question? I'm not familiar with bump box, so I don't know how that'd act with the delay box. There are also adjustable transbrake buttons for bottom bulb racers (aka no box racers).
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post #4 of 20 Old 04-25-2018, 04:32 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the answers!!


I have a new crossover delay box, but the delay just from inserting it can be more delay than I need plus it is pretty big. I'm just conditioned to always do exactly the same thing, and I'm already squeezing pretty hard. I'll have to watch that thumb grip closer.

My lights are now consistently red and I'm not hitting particularly hard. They will get more redder as I dial the line hit to the maximum on tighter tracks.

I guess I can make a simple cheap release time stretcher myself for a few hours work. I guess I'll build a solid state programmable hang delay for the button signal. I suppose 01 to 59 milliseconds will get me in the window. I just thought someone might already sell one. I've looked at industrial timers and such, no luck. It seems criminal to put a Diedenbear crossover box in just to use .030 delay.


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post #5 of 20 Old 04-25-2018, 06:49 PM
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That might be the way to get it done. Just to change the subject a little..... Pacemakers Dragway Park up here in Ohio is now doing No Prep .400 tree for guys like you. $8000 to win! Boosted GT took it all last weekend with his new car.
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post #6 of 20 Old 04-25-2018, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
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That might be the way to get it done. Just to change the subject a little..... Pacemakers Dragway Park up here in Ohio is now doing No Prep .400 tree for guys like you. $8000 to win! Boosted GT took it all last weekend with his new car.
I'm thinking of going up in that area, but not no prep.

My 92 is tubbed and narrowed and only will weigh around 2500, so will fit that no prep stuff when it gets done, but not my 89.

My 89 is a true street style car. Stock wheel wells and suspension points all window glass and full interior. It goes down a radial prep or even good slick prep tracks just fine, but it would be potential suicide to run it no prep. That's just a good way to wreck a car.

Didn't boosted GT just wreck his new car at a no prep?


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post #7 of 20 Old 04-26-2018, 05:16 AM
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He had the new orange one up here. Your right about the dangers. Couple of cars did tangle up.
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post #8 of 20 Old 04-26-2018, 01:52 PM
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What type of trans and converter u are running?
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post #9 of 20 Old 04-26-2018, 09:40 PM Thread Starter
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What type of trans and converter u are running?
Hughes full race competition Superglide with billet parts. I think it is 1.69 low, I'd have to look. 1.58 or 1.68 or something like that for low.

I was running a 9.5 converter but could not get it tight enough for full boost. It would only drop to 7500 with Dex-Merc ATF and I had 15% slip across the MPH beam.

Hy-gard took it to 7300 after the shift and maybe 13% slip.

I sent Hughes a few data logs. They did good. The new converter seems perfect, but they had to go 10.5 inch. The new converter dropped right to 6800 on the shift using Dex-Merc ATF and had ~9% slip. It's nice to be able to feel it shift.


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post #10 of 20 Old 04-27-2018, 07:18 PM
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Digital delay has a nice delay box called the little wizard

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post #11 of 20 Old 04-28-2018, 10:34 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I have one of these still new in the box but I wanted something small and simple since I never bracket race.


https://www.summitracing.com/ga/parts/ded-t1/overview/


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post #12 of 20 Old 04-29-2018, 12:39 AM
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You could possibly make something.. A 555 timer comes to mind.
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post #13 of 20 Old 05-05-2018, 02:57 AM Thread Starter
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You could possibly make something.. A 555 timer comes to mind.
I made something with a ICM7250. It dials 0-99 milliseconds delay on a dual thumb wheel switch.

0 is really 0 because it is solid state rather than a mechanical relay.

My Diedenbear has 6 mS latency, so even on 000 delay it adds .005-.007 latency.


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post #14 of 20 Old 05-06-2018, 10:12 PM
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I was thinking about this myself not too long ago. Try putting a relay between the button and the solenoid, if that doesn't give you enough delay you can put a small capacitor across the coil of the relay to delay release. Heck you could even put a 1K pot across the cap to fine-tune the discharge. I didn't actually try it, but I think it would work.
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post #15 of 20 Old 05-07-2018, 10:48 PM Thread Starter
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I was thinking about this myself not too long ago. Try putting a relay between the button and the solenoid, if that doesn't give you enough delay you can put a small capacitor across the coil of the relay to delay release. Heck you could even put a 1K pot across the cap to fine-tune the discharge. I didn't actually try it, but I think it would work.
I thought about a relay, but a typical relay is about 5-10 mS without a back pulse diode. A back pulse diode can almost double that release time with some relays.

But I worry about consistency. The ICM7250 is a precision timer. It divides off a clock and is programmable to 1/100th of a clock speed. With a 1000 Hz clock I can dial 0-99 mS. With a few transistors and a 7250 I can dial .000 to .099 seconds delay in .001 second steps.

I already have it running on a bread board and it is fault free.


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post #16 of 20 Old 05-08-2018, 08:28 AM
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Can you post a schematic? I'd like to see it. If I release the brake at first sign of last amber (sportsman tree), I go red by .01-.03. At 1:34 in in this video is a timeslip of a typical leave if I'm paying attention and trying not to go red and still cut a light:


Going on the first amber might be a better solution, since you can't really anticipate it like you can the last amber, though. I have an old analog delay box that I've taken apart the setting timer and extended it to try to run as well. Was going to put the setting dials in the dash. But as you can imagine, it's kind of large and with so many fine wires, it'll be prone to failure.

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post #17 of 20 Old 05-12-2018, 04:41 PM
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Yeah, well...with a .400 Pro tree there is no first or last amber. Its all on right now. .500 sportsman is a snooze fest. lol

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post #18 of 20 Old 05-12-2018, 08:24 PM
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Pro Tree is easier for me because of the .4 delay - I don't go red like on a .5 sportsman and can generally cut a good light. The only time I run pro through is when I'm running a grudge race or N/T.

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post #19 of 20 Old 05-13-2018, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
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I built and installed a box using an ICM7250 chip and ran two test hits with .030 delay dialed in. Using my brainless stare and release reflex one hit was .010 and the other .005, which is way better than the -.020 to -.030 red I was getting. Looks like I'm back in business.

Now my only issue is cleaning up the mounting of my wheel height safety sensors. Then my starting line stuff will be done.


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post #20 of 20 Old 05-13-2018, 05:59 PM
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Thanks for the answers!!


I have a new crossover delay box, but the delay just from inserting it can be more delay than I need plus it is pretty big. I'm just conditioned to always do exactly the same thing, and I'm already squeezing pretty hard. I'll have to watch that thumb grip closer.

My lights are now consistently red and I'm not hitting particularly hard. They will get more redder as I dial the line hit to the maximum on tighter tracks.

I guess I can make a simple cheap release time stretcher myself for a few hours work. I guess I'll build a solid state programmable hang delay for the button signal. I suppose 01 to 59 milliseconds will get me in the window. I just thought someone might already sell one. I've looked at industrial timers and such, no luck. It seems criminal to put a Diedenbear crossover box in just to use .030 delay.

Modern delay box would have been easier for 99% of us than re-inventing the wheel.
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