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post #1 of 23 Old 03-14-2018, 06:02 PM Thread Starter
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Analyze my time slip

Car is a full weight 92 gt no weight removed. Mods are Vortech V3 SI 10 psi, ported cobra intake, edelbrock performer heads, comp cams, tko 600, 3.73s, full length sub frame connectors, maximum motorsports xd lower control arms, 275/40/18 nitto nt05 street tires. Here is a timeslip the DA was 6594 ft. I know the 60' foot is horrible, is there more info to be had from my time slip?

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post #2 of 23 Old 03-14-2018, 11:20 PM
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It’s all about your 60’. Check my sig.


99 coupe. C4/8” 5000 stall w/2003 Mach crate motor FRPP stock N/A, Kooks LT's and X,dumps no muffs. 4.56's
Best ET 11.42 Best MPH 116.33Best 60" 1.49
Coincidence. A convenient and overused word for the mentally lazy.
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post #3 of 23 Old 03-15-2018, 06:39 AM
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without having a ton of time slips on the car seeing just 1 time slip just shows me that car doesnt 60ft... the MPH is there to do mid 11's just need to make it work

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post #4 of 23 Old 03-15-2018, 08:59 AM
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Nitto tires just suck for traction. Even the 555.

Put a reasonable tire on it (assuming you have aftermarket axles) and try again. Get a M&H or MT street legal drag radial, or even a Continental Extreme DW summer tire. Any of them will knock a few tenths to 1/2 second off the 60.


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post #5 of 23 Old 03-16-2018, 03:06 AM Thread Starter
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The nittos do suck for drag racing! I've tried lowering the pressure to about 24 psig different launch techniques, burnout lengths but 2.2xs are about the best I can get. Unfortunately they are pretty new still and I cant really afford to swap them out at the moment. I may try undoing the front sway bar at some point to see if that helps.
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post #6 of 23 Old 03-16-2018, 06:49 AM
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how much are you riding the clutch out?

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post #7 of 23 Old 03-16-2018, 10:49 AM
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corrected for the 6594' comes out to about a 12.49 @ 119, which is respectable for a stick car on 18" wheels with regular NT05s (not NT05Rs), but plenty of room for improvement from both the 60' and also mph

60' will take practice especially with a regular NT05 and on 18"
at the very least i'd get some drag radials but again stick coupled with drag radials takes work

what exhaust is on the car?
what cam?
power pipe?
tb?
maf?
have you had it tuned?

need more details...

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post #8 of 23 Old 03-16-2018, 11:32 AM
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18” tires have almost no sidewall. There’s a reason every serious racer runs a 15” wheel, be it slicks or drag radials. The sidewall is part of the suspension of the car. If you don’t want to get involved in changing tires at the track to run a 15” slick, then get some 15” dr’s or dot slick and change them at home.

99 coupe. C4/8” 5000 stall w/2003 Mach crate motor FRPP stock N/A, Kooks LT's and X,dumps no muffs. 4.56's
Best ET 11.42 Best MPH 116.33Best 60" 1.49
Coincidence. A convenient and overused word for the mentally lazy.
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post #9 of 23 Old 03-16-2018, 01:58 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by SRTthis798 View Post
how much are you riding the clutch out?
I'm dumping the clutch at about 2500rpm. When trying to slip the clutch the clutch the 60' foot times where 2.4s releasing the clutch pedal at moderate rate I would say. Dumping the clutch seems I better, or I could just suck at riding the clutch out. Im going to the track tomorrow I will post the results.

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corrected for the 6594' comes out to about a 12.49 @ 119, which is respectable for a stick car on 18" wheels with regular NT05s (not NT05Rs), but plenty of room for improvement from both the 60' and also mph

60' will take practice especially with a regular NT05 and on 18"
at the very least i'd get some drag radials but again stick coupled with drag radials takes work

what exhaust is on the car?
what cam?
power pipe?
tb?
maf?
have you had it tuned?

need more details...
Yeah Ive been practicing I had some cheap nexxen tires that I was able to pull 2.1 60' times with the nt05s I thought were going to help help a little.
The exhaust is bbk 1 5/8 shortys, 2.5" catted h pipe, borla proXs mufflers, comp cams 35-306-8 (.533/.544), upr power pipe, 70mm throttle body, 90mm pmass maf, 80 lb injectors, 255 lph fuel pump, sn 95 fuel rails, 3/8 fuel feed line, afm mr. freeze, quarter horse chip, tuned, 21 degrees of timing in boost, 11.6 afr in boost, spec 2+ clutch, and team z rear drag springs

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Originally Posted by bamabox View Post
18” tires have almost no sidewall. There’s a reason every serious racer runs a 15” wheel, be it slicks or drag radials. The sidewall is part of the suspension of the car. If you don’t want to get involved in changing tires at the track to run a 15” slick, then get some 15” dr’s or dot slick and change them at home.
The plan in the future is for 15 inch wheels with some type of slick, I've got the 95-04 cobra rear brakes on the car so I need to buy the correct wheels that clear the brakes. I'm a broke college student right now though, so it will probably be sometime after I graduate later this year. Ive got upper and lower torque box reinforcements welded in the car as well.
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post #10 of 23 Old 03-16-2018, 02:09 PM
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did you ever dyno the car?


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post #11 of 23 Old 03-16-2018, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
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did you ever dyno the car?
I have not had the car on the dyno. Im guessing its about 400whp.
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post #12 of 23 Old 03-16-2018, 02:26 PM
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sounds about right for those heads, although always good to confirm. either way i still think those numbers are respectable given the altitude, and mostly stick on 18" non drag radial tire. get some better tires and keep us posted.

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post #13 of 23 Old 03-21-2018, 12:12 AM
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You really can't tell much until you put some decent tires on the car. As it is, you put about 320-340 hp to the ground for that mph, not adjusting for altitude. I'd put some bias ply tires on it and try again. Drag radials tend to break things with a stick, as well as being inconsistent. QTPs are a great choice at your power level - lots of hook, lots of life. Love to see you pull off a 1.6x or so. Get aggressive and a high 1.5x is possible.

The best part about drag racing is the leave - with sticky tires it's like being rear ended by a semi. I thought I lost my garage door opener at my last track outing. Found it on the rear deck. Flew off the visor, skimmed along the headliner and hit the rear window.

Let us know how it goes!

AlexLTDLX

'84 LTD LX - 9.83 at 140.09. Whippled 365 SBF with a glide and 3.08 gears. Driven to and from the track 60 miles without even changing tire pressure.
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post #14 of 23 Old 03-21-2018, 03:09 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by AlexLTDLX View Post
You really can't tell much until you put some decent tires on the car. As it is, you put about 320-340 hp to the ground for that mph, not adjusting for altitude. I'd put some bias ply tires on it and try again. Drag radials tend to break things with a stick, as well as being inconsistent. QTPs are a great choice at your power level - lots of hook, lots of life. Love to see you pull off a 1.6x or so. Get aggressive and a high 1.5x is possible.

The best part about drag racing is the leave - with sticky tires it's like being rear ended by a semi. I thought I lost my garage door opener at my last track outing. Found it on the rear deck. Flew off the visor, skimmed along the headliner and hit the rear window.

Let us know how it goes!
Thanks for the recommendation I'll look into the QTPs, can you run regular street tires in the front with those?

I went to the track this past weekend. I ended up doing worse best 60' was 2.33, and the tires were breaking loose in second gear. The track was busy so only got 3 runs in. I'll keep practicing till I can get some better tires.
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post #15 of 23 Old 03-21-2018, 06:07 PM
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Yes, you can run regular radials in the front, but QTPs are closer to slicks. I ran them for a number of years. I've found people tend to underinflate them, as well as try to run tires too big for the rim to compensate. Most of the fast cars run the widest allowed rims, or sometimes even wider. I never got better 60's by going below 16 psi; but they did start to get a little squirmy. Right now I run 26x8.5" slicks with radial skinnies in the front with no sway issues. I also run around 16-17 psi in the slicks. It's quite stable. With full size radials in the front, you can get some sway, but nothing terrible. What you don't want to do is start correcting all the time - you can set up an oscillation that's hard to stop.

Here's the secret with bias plies - anything starts going weird, just lift. The car will straighten out like it's on rails. Another benefit of bias plies is if you spin, they'll recover; if you spin on drag radials, they'll never recover - you can go sideways quick.

I have a ton of videos on my channel of drag strip passes. This is the worst it ever got with bias plies in the back and radials in the front:


Out of hundreds of passes, that's as bad as it's gotten. Most of the time, it's either flat out hook, or a little spin, then hook.

AlexLTDLX

'84 LTD LX - 9.83 at 140.09. Whippled 365 SBF with a glide and 3.08 gears. Driven to and from the track 60 miles without even changing tire pressure.
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post #16 of 23 Old 03-21-2018, 06:23 PM
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FWIW, this is a typical leave - my suspension is nothing fancy. 26x8.5" slicks, skinnies, an airbag in the passenger rear spring (which are just GT springs, uncut), megabite jr lower control arms in the 135% hole (these are AWESOME - I did some testing, and these were worth quite a bit; if you do a search in this section you can find my results), stock uppers with poly bushings on the chassis side and heavy duty rubber bushings on the rear axle side, on the front I run GT springs (uncut) - my front end is heavier than most mustangs, fwiw; and strange 10 way adjustable struts - usually one or two clicks from full loose. Rear shocks are parts store cheapies from 10+ years ago.

I also don't have any subframe connectors.

Average 60' is from 1.41-1.46. I drive to the track on the slicks - up to 70+ miles each way.


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'84 LTD LX - 9.83 at 140.09. Whippled 365 SBF with a glide and 3.08 gears. Driven to and from the track 60 miles without even changing tire pressure.
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post #17 of 23 Old 03-22-2018, 10:41 PM Thread Starter
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That's awesome looks like your setup is pretty dialed in. Thanks for sharing your info and experiences, it will definitely help me out!
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post #18 of 23 Old 03-23-2018, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jchav02 View Post
Car is a full weight 92 gt no weight removed. Mods are Vortech V3 SI 10 psi, ported cobra intake, edelbrock performer heads, comp cams, tko 600, 3.73s, full length sub frame connectors, maximum motorsports xd lower control arms, 275/40/18 nitto nt05 street tires. Here is a timeslip the DA was 6594 ft. I know the 60' foot is horrible, is there more info to be had from my time slip?
I would be expecting 11s with a blower motor...

69.5 Maverick, 480 RWHP 363 NA, Faceplated TKO 600, 4.30 gears, 9", E70-14 Whitewalls. "Stock Appearing" Sleeper. 1.72, 11.49 @ 124.87
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post #19 of 23 Old 04-12-2018, 06:47 PM
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What did you run last time out?
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post #20 of 23 Old 04-12-2018, 08:42 PM
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Like many have already stated. Put some slicks on the car! You can buy all the trick-of-week suspension stuff you want and that won't do a thing to help bad track prep and hard tires. Slicks are the great equalizer. Most tracks, at least in my area, will do little or no prep, ever. Slicks are a must. Judging my your mph, putting some 26x8 slicks on that car would knock at least a second off the e.t. assuming nothing breaks.
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post #21 of 23 Old 04-14-2018, 01:19 AM
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College guy...remember this formula for life. 1320/MPH = optimum ET. This is for a race car and if you have street tires, street suspension, street clutch or torque convertor, etc., you’ll never get there as everything is compromised. Have a dialed in race car? You can beat the formula but obtaining the optimum of the formula is the goal.
But look at this: 1320/your MPH=11.49 ET. That means you have the HP, in your weight car, to cover 1320,’ in your altitude, to go 11.49 seconds. That means: don’t open the hood!
As Alex and others have correctly pointed out, you need a real slick. Don’t forget, height equals more footprint! Then you will probably smoke the clutch! Fix the clutch and then work on the rear suspension as mentioned.
Students should NOT get serious about racing their daily unless Daddy’s paying for it!
The way the car is now it’s fun and probably won’t break parts. Leave it alone until you graduate and have a good job.
Sorry, just dad talk!
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post #22 of 23 Old 04-14-2018, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
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I put my 8" crank pulley on and went back the DA jumped a to aprox 7600ft. I matched my et, but my mph jumped to 118. Im happy with how it did, I'm just running for mph, and fun until I get the funds for better tires.
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post #23 of 23 Old 04-14-2018, 01:05 PM Thread Starter
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College guy...remember this formula for life. 1320/MPH = optimum ET. This is for a race car and if you have street tires, street suspension, street clutch or torque convertor, etc., you’ll never get there as everything is compromised. Have a dialed in race car? You can beat the formula but obtaining the optimum of the formula is the goal.
But look at this: 1320/your MPH=11.49 ET. That means you have the HP, in your weight car, to cover 1320,’ in your altitude, to go 11.49 seconds. That means: don’t open the hood!
As Alex and others have correctly pointed out, you need a real slick. Don’t forget, height equals more footprint! Then you will probably smoke the clutch! Fix the clutch and then work on the rear suspension as mentioned.
Students should NOT get serious about racing their daily unless Daddy’s paying for it!
The way the car is now it’s fun and probably won’t break parts. Leave it alone until you graduate and have a good job.
Sorry, just dad talk!
Thanks for the formula.
With my new et 1320/118.17=11.17!
The car is fun luckily its not my daily, or I would not be racing it.
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