first time at the track, Tech Inspection Help - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 22 Old 12-26-2016, 10:21 AM Thread Starter
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first time at the track, Tech Inspection Help

Hi, everyone im somewhat new to this forum and did a quick look in the sticky bar and didnt see anything to answer my question. As the title says i will try my first time at the track this spring and need some insight, i built my car as a fun street driver but want to see what it will run. I am afraid of driving 4 hours to the nearest track in NJ and being turned away by tech. I have no idea what speed or time my car will run and am unsure what they will look for in tech. Do they estimate the cars time to know what you are required to have or is the first pass like a freebie and after my first pass they will tell me what i need to come back to be allowed onto the track. I read somewhere i can not run drag radials and need a drive shaft loop for under 13.99. My car is a 1991 lx with a 427 window swap on a t5 and an 8.8 with 3.93s. car makes about 625hp 545 lbs torque at the crank, so i know ill be under 13.99 by a good bit but do i need one before i go or will i get a pass and then flagged? Any help would be great, also any guesses to time and trap speed would be interesting to see. Thanks in advance, Andrew

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post #2 of 22 Old 12-27-2016, 03:08 AM
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Get/install the driveshaft hoop. Not a bad idea for ANY drag car.
I really don't know what the problem is with the tires. Out here in Tucson (NHRA track) tech guys wouldn't have a problem with them........

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post #3 of 22 Old 12-27-2016, 08:44 AM Thread Starter
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I agree and will add a loop. what other issues will send me away?
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post #4 of 22 Old 12-27-2016, 09:14 AM
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Do you have a steel bellhousing? If not its a good idea!!! If you ever seen a clutch come apart is not a good site to see,plus the possibility of losing a foot or two. Good luck when you go out and race.
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post #5 of 22 Old 12-27-2016, 09:39 AM Thread Starter
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Is a steel bell housing required, I'm looking to run the car a few times before a trans swap with a steel housing?
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post #6 of 22 Old 12-27-2016, 10:16 AM Thread Starter
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Is a steel housing required. Just trying to put a few passes in before a trans and bell upgrade?
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post #7 of 22 Old 12-27-2016, 10:30 AM
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Get an NHRA rulebook. It outlines anything from the basics to full blown TF cars.
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post #8 of 22 Old 12-27-2016, 10:50 AM
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Make sure you drain your coolant before you go and run straight distilled water. That way if you have a failure your dumping water and not coolant.

Here at our track tech isn't a huge deal. If you run faster than a certain time you need a cage.
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post #9 of 22 Old 12-27-2016, 11:03 AM Thread Starter
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Saleen and how do I know where I fall inside the section of the nhra rule book with zeros passes for a mph/et ?
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post #10 of 22 Old 12-27-2016, 11:57 AM
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It depends on the track. If it is a large facility that hosts NHRA events (Englishtown), you will have to jump through more hoops. Make the car so that you feel safe first, then worry about the track. I run in the 10s and have no cage, battery disconnect (trunk mounted), long wheel studs, or other tech sticky points. To date, the local tracks haven't given me any trouble. However, I know if I try to run at Indianapolis, chances are they will ask me to leave. I don't want all of that stuff as it is a street car that only sees the track occasionally. I understand the risk I am taking not having the safety equipment.

What sucks is you can make a decent pass, knowing there is more in the car and be approached by tech and not be able to make another.

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post #11 of 22 Old 12-27-2016, 12:03 PM
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You haven't said what you've done to your car but from your post it sounds like more of a street car with a pretty strong motor. That being said not sure how well it works/weighs but if your power numbers are correct you're looking at somewhere in the 9-10 second range. I'd probably go by what is required to run a 10.00 or slower pass to give you a good idea.
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post #12 of 22 Old 12-27-2016, 03:21 PM Thread Starter
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Car has a cage subframe connectors a loop as of today 5 lug disc brakes on all four upgrade t5 and 8.8 stumped tank external pump regulator ECT a dart based 427 making 650/600 at the crank on a dyno using a solid roller cam 700 lift with brodix heads. A well built and rounded motor easily ready for boost or nitrous. I feel the car is safe enough and ready for the track just don't want and hiccups. My fuel line runs outside my frame rail for 3 ft in braided -10 which I was told is a no no but that's the factory location.

Also to long stud reference what is that and is it a big issue I don't want to pull hubs and press lugs as I use a capped lug and show rim for the street
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post #13 of 22 Old 12-27-2016, 04:45 PM
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First time out with that car you should be in the 11.5 and slower.

Here are the rules to my local track which should get you a start.
Friday Night Drags & Swap Meet hosted by RacingJunk.com - Wild Horse Pass Motorsports Park - Chandler - Arizona - Phoenix

Heres a link to the NHRA rules:
http://www.nhra.com/userfiles/file/T...%20Section.pdf

Make a few runs... see how fast ya are.. then see where ya wanna be next time and prepare accordingly.

Have fun.. be safe..

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post #14 of 22 Old 12-27-2016, 06:00 PM
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On the wheel stud question, if you have 1/2'' studs you need 1/2'' thread engagement. Same thing if you have 7/16'' or MM studs. Engagement must be equal to diameter. For a good reason. SFI blowproof, clutch and flywheel, 3'' belts, SFI jacket, all those things come into play when you go 11.49 and faster. General NHRA rules spell out the minimum, and get more detailed further in the book. Might want to keep in mind, most tracks that do pre race tech will look at you a lot closer if you new or unknown to them, than the regulars they see every week. If you are turned away, it is because they don't want to see tracks dirtied by fluids or accidents, or drivers hurt. The guys doing tech are usually drivers also, and will do anything to help you out, along with all the guys in the staging lanes and starting line. They were all new to the game also. So you have all kinds of people to coach you thru.
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post #15 of 22 Old 12-27-2016, 06:09 PM
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One more word, please be nice to that T-5 first time out.. My weapon of choice but they do have there limitations.
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post #16 of 22 Old 12-27-2016, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
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2 step when you say 1/2 thread engagement for 1/2 stud you mean 1/2 inch of threads coming out the back side of the open lug correct? The T5 will be babied.... I see the 11.49 and faster requires more, also see the car as capable of goIng into the 10s also. My question is will they let me run making soft passes to get a feel and comfort for it up until I go 11.49 or quicker and then kick me off ?
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post #17 of 22 Old 12-27-2016, 07:55 PM
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I agree with tbirdz. Ask questions if you don't know, everyone there is usually really helpful. Drivers too. Run your car a little easy to get the feel how it goes because its going to drive different than on the streets. Also don't feel bad if you run street tires and smoke them past the 60' mark and run a 14 second pass. Most important have fun and be safe. That's what everyone there is trying to do. Also if you go to your local tracks website they usually have their own set of rules for classes or a test and tune night.
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post #18 of 22 Old 12-27-2016, 08:18 PM
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Don't forget a Snell approved helmet.

Joe
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post #19 of 22 Old 12-28-2016, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StrokedFox View Post
Don't forget a Snell approved helmet.

Joe
Snell 2010 or newer. One of the first things they check. Ditto comments on the T5 with the HP you are making. With any kind of sticky tire you had better take it easy.

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post #20 of 22 Old 03-28-2017, 07:53 PM
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as a tech inspector and racer at our local track. I keep a pretty close eye on all the cars that tell me it is there first trip to the track. I check over all there safety features and let them know this is what you have and you cant go any faster than this. you get warned once if you go to fast. next time your done for the day. most guys go out and make short hits and launches. then towards the end of the day. they let it eat. Im fine with that as they know they will be done for the day. you have to figure it out somewhere. But if your running faster then license speed. your done period.

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post #21 of 22 Old 03-29-2017, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by powerstroke987 View Post
2 step when you say 1/2 thread engagement for 1/2 stud you mean 1/2 inch of threads coming out the back side of the open lug correct?
That is the way most tracks inspect.
The rule book states (loosely interpreted here...) that for a 1/2" stud, you need to have at min. 1/2" of thread (5/8" = 5/8" etc.) engagement into the lug.
You can imagine the time to pull lugs, wheels, measure, and math it out at the track, so, most tracks will ensure you have open ended lugs, and the the studs protrude through the end of the lug. Since the more strict rule will always be followed, the tracks interpretation is what you should expect.

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post #22 of 22 Old 03-29-2017, 06:57 PM
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The first thing I always do is as much as I can to make me and others safe. This includes:

catch can for radiator

proper fuel lines

proper and good shape water hoses

drive shaft loop

proper lugs and lug engagement and NO wheel spacers. Good tires and no rubbing.

cage, jacket, pants, helmet and safety more than required

minimal fuel


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