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post #1 of 21 Old 08-24-2016, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
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coilover spring recommendations

was curious what you guys would recommend for my car for front coil over springs. 86gt. it currently has 12 inch 150 pound springs. the car is stock block 302 heads cam and intake with an S trim. made 464rwhp. tremec tko 600 trans. has interior but all the heating stuff was removed. all the bumper and door supports were removed. aluminum rad(just mention because less weight on the nose) rear mounted battery. tubular k member/A arms. lakewood 90/10s and 50/50s. manual rack. no PS..AC or smog stuff. wasnt sure if they are too soft of a spring for a car with a blower adding weight to the front. this is my first foray into coil overs so please forgive any dumb questions. lol. weight transfer is the main concern over street driveability. (although it will be on the street some)


86gt. converted to mass air. vortech s trim. 9lbs of boost. E cam. tfs street heat intake. tfs 170s. shorty headers. power pipe. 70mm TB. 80mm maf. 42lb injectors. 464rwhp 3.73 gears. 255/60/15 M/T drag radials. TKO 600. tubular k. coil overs. manual rack. weight reductions. track times to come.
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post #2 of 21 Old 08-24-2016, 10:32 PM
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A few ways of doing it. One way would be to use a 14" 100-125 lb spring. The thinking is this: that light of a spring needs to be compressed more to get your ride height the same. By compressing the spring more, (thus the 14" length) you are storing more energy and thus help raise the nose of the car when launching the car thereby transfering weight better.


1989 Saleen 414 358cid SBF 2.8L Kenne Bell S/C
26 X 8.5 Hoosier
Best 1/4 mile time 8.623 @ 159.82 mph with a 1.34 60' (5.57 1/8th at 128)
Best 1/8 mile time 5.339 @ 133.46 mph with a 1.29 60'
08' Bullitt #4097 N/A 340ish RWHP <<<<<FOR SALE!
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post #3 of 21 Old 08-24-2016, 11:17 PM
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How do the 12-150's look on there now? How much gap between the coils? That spring should be in the ballpark for your setup


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post #4 of 21 Old 08-25-2016, 06:25 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ZSR View Post
How do the 12-150's look on there now? How much gap between the coils? That spring should be in the ballpark for your setup
i'm not sure i'll look when i get home and get back to you. theres a decent amount of room. i wasnt worried about coil bind. is there a ballpark distance there should be between the coils? i would just do some hole shots and get some real world data but i still need to get my torque boxes situated before i feel comfortable doing that. lol.
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post #5 of 21 Old 08-26-2016, 10:22 PM
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I would say that spring sounds good for your current setup.


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post #6 of 21 Old 08-28-2016, 05:48 AM
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I use a 14" 130 with iron heads and a turbo.
Have a manual rack and only run an alt.
The ride height is around 3/4 gap fender to tire.
Almost dead hooks with 17" Nt05r on the street.
I think the 150 isn't to light for you.

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post #7 of 21 Old 08-29-2016, 09:53 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by turbo93fox View Post
I use a 14" 130 with iron heads and a turbo.
Have a manual rack and only run an alt.
The ride height is around 3/4 gap fender to tire.
Almost dead hooks with 17" Nt05r on the street.
I think the 150 isn't to light for you.
cool. i have 12" ones on there now. i guess i'll just keep these on and see how they were once i get my torque boxes all welded up. i might order a pair of 14" 150lb just to have on hand to play around with.
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post #8 of 21 Old 09-05-2016, 10:16 AM
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As stated above the 12-150 is in the ball park. To dated Ive tested the 12-150 and 14-150 with no real difference on my car. The 14 rubs the adjuster. Be careful with ride height when using the 12" spring. If I put the ride height low the 12" is loose in the spring pocket at full droop so make sure you check that. This has not been an issue with the 14" spring no matter how low I set the ride height.

Im currently testing a 14-130 spring and so far the nose pops up much quicker. My RT have improved because it yanks the wheels up out of the beams. I dont have enough data to say if ET is better.

Stock Block 408", TFS 11R 205, TFS EFI Carb R Intake, XFI 236HR, Tweecer, Faceplated TKO 500
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post #9 of 21 Old 09-05-2016, 10:52 AM
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Also, would like to add to this. A pic from under the front suspension would really be helpful. In the past on my '86GT, I was trying to get the ride height where I liked it. Just about even with top of tires. Then I would check under the front suspension. I wanted to have the correct Bump Steer which had both the Lower Control Arms and the Tie Rods parrarell even to each other. My final opinion was trying to get the correct weight springs to accomplish correct Bump Steer and desired ride height. For example: what if you have a 150lbs. Spring @ 14" and your Tie Rods don't align parrarell for Bump Steer? How would you accomplish your correct goal then?
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post #10 of 21 Old 09-05-2016, 11:08 AM
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Racerxmdd - are you using a bumpsteer kit? Adjust is pretty straight forward with one.


Stock Block 408", TFS 11R 205, TFS EFI Carb R Intake, XFI 236HR, Tweecer, Faceplated TKO 500
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post #11 of 21 Old 09-05-2016, 11:24 AM
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Yes, I am. I am using the UPR set up that uses the larger Bolts. Which I had to re-drill the spindles on to fit.
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post #12 of 21 Old 09-05-2016, 11:33 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Project Reef Blue View Post
As stated above the 12-150 is in the ball park. To dated Ive tested the 12-150 and 14-150 with no real difference on my car. The 14 rubs the adjuster. Be careful with ride height when using the 12" spring. If I put the ride height low the 12" is loose in the spring pocket at full droop so make sure you check that. This has not been an issue with the 14" spring no matter how low I set the ride height.

Im currently testing a 14-130 spring and so far the nose pops up much quicker. My RT have improved because it yanks the wheels up out of the beams. I dont have enough data to say if ET is better.
looks like you're also running a blower in your signature. so 150s worked well? i'm just gonna keep them in for now. i have the ride height set a little higher currently. theres a little gap between the tire of the tire and the fender. and to racerxmdd..i have a bumpsteer kit so that wont be a problem but thanks. =) i keep forgetting to get a picture up. i will soon. busy at work then went to the yellow bullet nationals this weekend which was awesome.
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post #13 of 21 Old 09-06-2016, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by racerxmdd View Post
Yes, I am. I am using the UPR set up that uses the larger Bolts. Which I had to re-drill the spindles on to fit.
And you werent able to get the tie rods approximately level? How low is the car?

Stock Block 408", TFS 11R 205, TFS EFI Carb R Intake, XFI 236HR, Tweecer, Faceplated TKO 500
10.49 @ 130mph

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post #14 of 21 Old 09-06-2016, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by rampage2587 View Post
looks like you're also running a blower in your signature. so 150s worked well? i'm just gonna keep them in for now. i have the ride height set a little higher currently. theres a little gap between the tire of the tire and the fender. and to racerxmdd..i have a bumpsteer kit so that wont be a problem but thanks. =) i keep forgetting to get a picture up. i will soon. busy at work then went to the yellow bullet nationals this weekend which was awesome.
The car presently does not have a supercharger.

Stock Block 408", TFS 11R 205, TFS EFI Carb R Intake, XFI 236HR, Tweecer, Faceplated TKO 500
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post #15 of 21 Old 09-06-2016, 08:37 PM
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I got it close, but then the project snow balled to where it is now! Lol Here is a pic when the k-member was dropped w/ front suspension:

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post #16 of 21 Old 09-08-2016, 04:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saleen414 View Post
A few ways of doing it. One way would be to use a 14" 100-125 lb spring. The thinking is this: that light of a spring needs to be compressed more to get your ride height the same. By compressing the spring more, (thus the 14" length) you are storing more energy and thus help raise the nose of the car when launching the car thereby transfering weight better.
that spring will be more prone to bounce coming back down which will unload the tire as well. Unless you're running a really good front strut. But in this situation, I doubt the OP is running a quality dbl adj front strut.

One thing to remember, the more power you make, the firmer spring you run.. you're controlling the down, not the up! Wheelies are easy... and expensive!! lol

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1.16 60' [email protected] on 1 gun (In testing)
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post #17 of 21 Old 09-08-2016, 05:05 PM
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that spring will be more prone to bounce coming back down which will unload the tire as well. Unless you're running a really good front strut. But in this situation, I doubt the OP is running a quality dbl adj front strut.

One thing to remember, the more power you make, the firmer spring you run.. you're controlling the down, not the up! Wheelies are easy... and expensive!! lol
I guess if you are pulling wheelies, big ones, you have a point. My car pulls high 1.2's 60 foot and runs low 5's in the 1/8 and low 8's in the 1/4 and barely pulls the front end off of the ground with only a 26 X 8.5 tire @ 3150 lbs. I have single adjustable front struts. A lot has to do with how the rest of the car is set up. But I get your point. A lot of people do not have their chassis set up right so they chase one issue or another.

1989 Saleen 414 358cid SBF 2.8L Kenne Bell S/C
26 X 8.5 Hoosier
Best 1/4 mile time 8.623 @ 159.82 mph with a 1.34 60' (5.57 1/8th at 128)
Best 1/8 mile time 5.339 @ 133.46 mph with a 1.29 60'
08' Bullitt #4097 N/A 340ish RWHP <<<<<FOR SALE!
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post #18 of 21 Old 09-08-2016, 05:38 PM
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I guess if you are pulling wheelies, big ones, you have a point. My car pulls high 1.2's 60 foot and runs low 5's in the 1/8 and low 8's in the 1/4 and barely pulls the front end off of the ground with only a 26 X 8.5 tire @ 3150 lbs. I have single adjustable front struts. A lot has to do with how the rest of the car is set up. But I get your point. A lot of people do not have their chassis set up right so they chase one issue or another.
Are you using a transbrake? Even on that 26, I would think you would be able to dip into the teens in the 60'. That's with the single adj fronts. But you'd need to get some good rear shocks.

Granted, I don't know the surface you're racing on.. but you have the power to get there.

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post #19 of 21 Old 09-08-2016, 06:21 PM
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Are you using a transbrake? Even on that 26, I would think you would be able to dip into the teens in the 60'. That's with the single adj fronts. But you'd need to get some good rear shocks.

Granted, I don't know the surface you're racing on.. but you have the power to get there.
Yes, using a transbrake. Still playing with the launch control. Leaving on the brake @ 2,500 rpm is 14 psi of boost. Converter flashes to about 6,200 rpm. At that point, I am at over 18 psi. This happens in a fraction of a second. So trying to control power on launch on that small tire is a challenge. Going to put a wastegate on the supercharger and use a boost controller to control boost on launch and thus power. Right now, the only thing I can do is pull timing and ramp it is over the first 60' to get it to go. It is a lot of fun though. I do utilize AFCO double adjustable shocks on the rear.

1989 Saleen 414 358cid SBF 2.8L Kenne Bell S/C
26 X 8.5 Hoosier
Best 1/4 mile time 8.623 @ 159.82 mph with a 1.34 60' (5.57 1/8th at 128)
Best 1/8 mile time 5.339 @ 133.46 mph with a 1.29 60'
08' Bullitt #4097 N/A 340ish RWHP <<<<<FOR SALE!
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post #20 of 21 Old 09-08-2016, 10:53 PM
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Yes, using a transbrake. Still playing with the launch control. Leaving on the brake @ 2,500 rpm is 14 psi of boost. Converter flashes to about 6,200 rpm. At that point, I am at over 18 psi. This happens in a fraction of a second. So trying to control power on launch on that small tire is a challenge. Going to put a wastegate on the supercharger and use a boost controller to control boost on launch and thus power. Right now, the only thing I can do is pull timing and ramp it is over the first 60' to get it to go. It is a lot of fun though. I do utilize AFCO double adjustable shocks on the rear.
Right on.. and if you're having fun that's all that matters.

This is taking away from the OP's question.. but looking at you sig. You've been 8.60's and 5.30's.. Is this with the same combo? I ask because the numbers don't line up. You may be experiencing some issues up top. With a 5.30 hlaf track, barring anything unforeseen, taking it out the back "should" net 8.30's. This has nothing to do with a 60'... You have the pieces.. and it's showing it can do the work. just sayin'

O.G. X275 racer
1.17 60' [email protected] with the angry peanut!
1.16 60' [email protected] on 1 gun (In testing)
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post #21 of 21 Old 09-09-2016, 07:40 AM
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Right on.. and if you're having fun that's all that matters.

This is taking away from the OP's question.. but looking at you sig. You've been 8.60's and 5.30's.. Is this with the same combo? I ask because the numbers don't line up. You may be experiencing some issues up top. With a 5.30 hlaf track, barring anything unforeseen, taking it out the back "should" net 8.30's. This has nothing to do with a 60'... You have the pieces.. and it's showing it can do the work. just sayin'
The car was built for 1/8 mile. The only runs in the 1/4 mile was when I was doing licensing passes. The car has a 8.5 chassis cert. The first 1/4 mile pass on the car ever was the 8.62. This was while I was still learing the tune. I did not want to blow through the chassis cert, so I have never ran it all the way out back since. The tune is much better now. I can run it out to around 700 feet, lift and coast to an 8.8 @ 117 , so I know the car will run a number but I dont dare do it. Next weekend I am going to be running E85 for the first time. Getting ready for SCSN in Vegas in Nov.

1989 Saleen 414 358cid SBF 2.8L Kenne Bell S/C
26 X 8.5 Hoosier
Best 1/4 mile time 8.623 @ 159.82 mph with a 1.34 60' (5.57 1/8th at 128)
Best 1/8 mile time 5.339 @ 133.46 mph with a 1.29 60'
08' Bullitt #4097 N/A 340ish RWHP <<<<<FOR SALE!
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