Instant center off? Possibly converter incorrect for the setup but if it were mine, and the track was "that" good, I'd look at an IC a little longer and perhaps a little lower. Start longer though. The car is not getting up on the tire. It can't. It is spinning them instantly at the hit. When I see this on a 4 link that's set up somewhat decent, the converter is usually too violent at the hit. I ran into this with mine when I put a C stator in. Went to a BCX and had them remove the sprag and lost a tiny bit of initial hit but it actually works quite well now even if there's a very slight decrease in performance....and we're talking VERY slight (1/8 mile)-meaning hard to tell if the track conditions changed or if the weather's done something weird or if it was the converter change. A few thousandths.
Looks like the AS is positive, meaning above 100%. Tire looks as if it's being forced into the surface at the hit, also contributing to the tire being squashed. My thoughts are to remove a little hit, get the AS down around 90% give or take and perhaps try to get the IC out a little and maybe down some. If the 4 link has any adjustment in it. I'm not familiar with your particular setup. To get weight onto the rear tires, the car needs to pitch rotate and it's not doing it, at least not for 20 foot or so. Sometimes getting the front end to "lift" a little more or faster helps, but in this case I think you could take all shock absorption out of the struts and it still wouldn't work, in my opinion. Also worth mentioning, sometimes loosening the front rebound and tightening the bump (up easy, stay up) will kill some MPH downtrack too, which I found on mine. I actually had to limit the front end travel and this was worth almost a full tenth....keep in mind that was with a stock front suspension Maverick, which is really similar to an early Mustang. Apples to Oranges in this case, but an example of tuning and logging what works and what doesn't.
SOMETIMES lowering the launch RPM "hits" the converter (and trans, driveline, axles, and ultimately the tires) harder. Depends on your setup. Everyone's is different. When I was running top bulb stuff (transbrake and delay bracket racing), I decided on a poor track condition day that lowering the 2 step from 5000 to 3000 might help. Nope-made it worse as it was "flashing" the converter a little harder. Went to 4500 and it helped some. Again, everyone's stuff is different and your results may be completely different than mine. Just sharing what I've found, for what it's worth.
Very good video, by the way, and thank you for sharing. I now know what my next purchase will be.....that camera app