20 ft enclosed trailers - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 16 Old 07-07-2016, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
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20 ft enclosed trailers

anybody here use a 20ft with a foxbody?also gonna be used for jr dragster. getting a real good price on it reason why just wondering how much room you have with a foxbody in it.

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post #2 of 16 Old 07-07-2016, 06:27 PM
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You have just enough room to fit the foxbody with a chute on the back along with a modest sized tool box, a small portable generator, some fuel jugs and a few other odds and ends and have just enough room to walk around the front of the car to strap it down. My friend used a 20' for years. As a result of helping him at the track for a few years, when I got my own car up and running....I bought a 24' enclosed lol.

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post #3 of 16 Old 07-07-2016, 07:45 PM
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I borrowed a 20', and used it to haul my Maverick around. Wing on back, and it's slightly longer than a foxbody. It had a toolbox in front. Between the bumper and tool box was maybe a foot. Barely enough to get down in there & tie it down and I mean barely. No room for the scooter (Zuma). I could have bought the trailer "right" as time went on, but I hated that it was so tight, and I knew that if later on I wanted a dragster, that a 20' trailer wasn't going to be long enough. So I bought a 24' Pace instead, cost quite a bit more but I'm glad I did. With the Maverick in it and the Zuma in front of the car, there's still about 3 foot or so to the toolbox; and I'm thinking about putting in a cabinet to replace the 1974 Craftsman box. Maybe another project for a cooler day. These 103į days are killing me at work, and at home during the evening I don't wanna do nothing. In the mornings it's nice but humid, at least til about 0700.

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post #4 of 16 Old 07-07-2016, 11:55 PM
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I agree, I think a 24' minimum, ideally a 28'. I have a 20' open trailer and after pulling my golf cart on the nose sideways there's just enough room to fit the car on and tie everything down.
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post #5 of 16 Old 07-08-2016, 08:42 AM Thread Starter
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yea i can be in one for about 1900 reason im asking.
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post #6 of 16 Old 07-08-2016, 09:13 AM
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I went the other way . I had a 28' and now have a 24' . I can fit my cart and foxbody with chute and wing no problem. I also use to have a alum. 18' open . Was nice if u were doing something quick but only had room for the car.
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post #7 of 16 Old 07-08-2016, 11:33 PM
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I have a 20ft but I have a 95 with tools and canopy and jack and stands and all other crap I have piled up I have about one foot to strap car down and about enough room to squeeze around back of car I have used it for 3 years and would think a 28 or 32 would fit better but it's hard when it's paid for to buy another I would say if it's a good deal and in good condition and you don't have a trailer get it and see how much you take with you to track. I know I bough mine new and with all the opinions mine has I paid around 5500 so 1900 is a good deal if condition is good
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post #8 of 16 Old 07-10-2016, 11:44 PM
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keep in mind resale value too. A 24' will sell for a lot more than a 20' will if/when the time comes to upgrade or if for some reason times got tough and you had to sell it.

One nice thing about a 20' is that it's right at the edge of what most 1/2 ton trucks will pull. A 24' almost requires a 3/4 ton to pull it safely. I've pulled my 24' with a 2003 Lightning, and it had plenty of power but where it suffered was (1) brakes and (2) stability. When an 18 wheeler passes you on the freeway, or if the wind is blowing any, a 1/2 ton just isn't safe. Lot of guys do it, and again I have too but going to a 3/4 ton was a BIG improvement!

Also look not just at towing capacity, but also at how that tonnage is rated. For instance my truck has a 12,500 lb towing capacity. But that's with a weight distributing hitch. Pulling on the ball only, it drops to 6,000 lbs. My 24' loaded with all the junk comes in right near 7,000 lbs, which is the trailer's max weight.

And speaking of weight capacity, take a good hard look at the 20' trailer's max weight. A typical fox body is going to be around 3000 lbs. Plus tools. Plus canopy. Fuel. Generator. All the rest of the stuff you might carry. My trailer's max GVW is 7,000 lbs with a 3500 lb empty trailer weight. A door car, tools, generator, fuel, winch, battery, spare stuff will put it really close to maximum. I kind of wish I'd have gotten a trailer with 5200 lb axles but this works for no more than I race anymore (twice a year maybe).

Just my $.02, for what it's worth.

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post #9 of 16 Old 07-17-2016, 09:56 AM
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I have a Pace American 20FT trailer and for my application, it is perfect. The way the wheel base is layed out, I keep the car within 6" of the back door (only about 4" past the beavertail floor) which still gives me plenty of tongue weight and about 4 1/2ft in front of the car for other stuff like the spare tire, tools, chairs etc. I have a 94 Cobra show car and my son has a 85GT race car and it works perfect for both applications. This is my second 20Ft trailer and one thing I really like about it is that that length allows you to park in normal sizes area. I can park in a double length parking spot with no issues and turning corners isn't as hard. I don't know how other companies do their wheel bases, but this set-up with the car to the rear (and the extra stuff up front) gives me plenty of tongue weight, but I don't have to use those lift bars. I know when you put a car clear to the front of the trailer, it puts a lot of tongue weight and you need those lift bars on the hitch. I ordered this trailer 12 years ago and I was warned that resale of a 20ft isn't as good as a 24' or longer, but for my application, it is what I wanted and if I had to do it over again, I'd order it exactly the same. I know hard core race car guys carry a lot of extra stuff, so they probably need all of that extra length. And, my car definitely doesn't need a parachute!!LOL! Anyways, good luck in your decision.

Just an old carpenter with a 94 Cobra and a Son with a nasty 85GT! I'm Show and he's Go!!
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post #10 of 16 Old 07-22-2016, 01:30 PM
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No one has made mention of towing equipment which is assumed for this size trailer - sway, load leveling, brakes to be safe. At that price and what you want it for it will be hard not to get if it's a nice trailer.

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post #11 of 16 Old 07-22-2016, 02:20 PM
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I use weight dist hitch and sway control. That hitch made night and day difference. I wont run with out it.
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post #12 of 16 Old 07-22-2016, 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by TooFast98Cobra View Post
I use weight dist hitch and sway control. That hitch made night and day difference. I wont run with out it.

I bought one too, and should have bought it a LONG time ago. Night and day improvement. Those who say "nah, I don't need it" are the ones who have never towed with one that's properly set up. It is a HUGE difference, especially when an 18 wheeler passes you, or you pass it, while you're towing. Or on windy days.
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post #13 of 16 Old 07-24-2016, 05:35 PM
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Ive got a 22ft Carmate. I think its a great compromise between the 20' and 24;. I tried a 20ft and there was no room in front of the car for a work bench or storage. The 24' is huge and would not fit in my drive way.

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post #14 of 16 Old 07-24-2016, 05:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TooFast98Cobra View Post
I use weight dist hitch and sway control. That hitch made night and day difference. I wont run with out it.
Weight Dist hitch is generally mandatory at these payloads. The owners manual in my 2011 F150 states max tongue weight is 500lb. 1000lbs with a weight distribution hitch. Trailer tongue weight is generally 10% of the total weight of the trailer (including payload). You shouldn't even attempt towing more than 5000lbs without one .....

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post #15 of 16 Old 07-25-2016, 09:11 AM
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Just thought I'd post back....just completed a cam swap on the race car, while in the trailer. 'Course I've got a toolbox in the front and enough tools to do small jobs-and the only thing I had to go back into the garage for was the torque wrench. Everything else was done in the trailer, with a portable A/C unit keeping it between 67 and 72 degrees inside the trailer. That is one more plus to the extra length, you can do some repairs and maintenance easily. Today's project, I've got to replace the cylinder, pipe, and carburetor on the pit bike (70cc big bore). Might even try to tackle the clutch.
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post #16 of 16 Old 07-25-2016, 09:57 AM
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I have an 8.5 by 20 WOW trailer with V nose. The inside square area is 20 ft with about 2 foot of tapered nose depth. My only issue is getting in and out of the car. I have to modify the left wheel cover so it is either lower or removable. That way I can open the car door.

Since I almost exclusively use an open trailer for events within a few hundred miles, this size worked perfectly for me. It minimizes parking issues, the V nose is easier to pull, and I have room out of the way up in the V for the winch battery, remote winch, and a small bench. I use my truck bed for tools and parts, with just the car in the trailer.

If I had it to do over again, I would look at wheel cover height inside the trailer and make sure my DS door opens enough to squeeze out and check the trailer carefully for water sealing on the floor area.

Without using the truck bed for things like tires or gas, I would have needed a 24-26 ft trailer.


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