If you had $1K to spend on this rear suspension..what would you do/buy? - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 16 Old 06-18-2016, 11:23 PM Thread Starter
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If you had $1K to spend on this rear suspension..what would you do/buy?

Already have uppers/lowers from Team Z,Strange single adjustable shocks(10 way up front),spool + 33 spl axles,C-clip elim. This will be a 50/50 street strip car..running mostly on drag radials & would like to maintain some ride quality. What's next for me...ARB,shocks,springs? Can I upgrade all those for $1K to proven products that will make the typical Fox body hook+ go straight? Not trying to start any brand bashing,just after knowledge on where I would get the most bang for the buck?

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post #2 of 16 Old 06-20-2016, 02:16 PM Thread Starter
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Bump..

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post #3 of 16 Old 06-20-2016, 08:54 PM
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What kind of power or times does it run now
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post #4 of 16 Old 06-20-2016, 10:51 PM
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I'm not hard core enough (or just too old), but if I was, I'd do an S box and double adjustable rear shocks. I've never personally seen a car pick up with an ARB over a simple airbag.

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'84 LTD LX - 9.83 at 140.09. Whippled 365 SBF with a glide and 3.08 gears. Driven to and from the track 60 miles without even changing tire pressure.
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post #5 of 16 Old 06-21-2016, 07:14 AM
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This is a no brainer. Torque arm and anti roll bar. Anti roll bar lets you launch straight, torque arm plants the wheels. I have run the Steeda Anti Roll bar and Global West Track Link in the past and it was so effective, I had to relearn to launch the car. It went straight as an arrow and my 60 ft times went into the 1.4 range from 1.6 and high 1.5's. Everyone said not to run the ARB on the street, but I did and had no problems doing so. The Global West trac link worked great everywhere.

Good luck in whatever way you go.
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post #6 of 16 Old 06-21-2016, 09:52 AM Thread Starter
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Not really familiar with a Torque Arm..I have seen them,but only in road racing cars,or mild GM street cars(factory issue in Camaro's iirc). I'm open minded though..and if it works..it works! Definitely need to upgrade the torque boxes before I put the new motor in & hit it with a transbrake . Still lots left to do..just need a proven plan,and STICK to it . Thanks for the replys so far..
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post #7 of 16 Old 06-21-2016, 02:29 PM
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How much power does the car make? What else have you got up front other than 10 ways?

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post #8 of 16 Old 06-21-2016, 07:37 PM
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swap the dr's for slicks... air bag works good for my power level... Done for half your budget.
DR's can hook, but it takes lots of time and money.

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post #9 of 16 Old 06-22-2016, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
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I am shooting for 600 to the tires, on motor. Another 3-400 on the bottle. Give or take a little..
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post #10 of 16 Old 06-22-2016, 04:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERStettin View Post
Torque arm and anti roll bar.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleepr71
Not really familiar with a Torque Arm..I have seen them,but only in road racing cars,or mild GM street cars(factory issue in Camaro's iirc). I'm open minded though..and if it works..it works! Definitely need to upgrade the torque boxes before I put the new motor in & hit it with a transbrake . Still lots left to do..just need a proven plan,and STICK to it . Thanks for the replys so far..



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post #11 of 16 Old 06-23-2016, 12:15 AM
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Global West Trac Link, Steeda Anti Roll Bar, Global West lower control arms with Del Alum bushings, 70/30's up front with 4 cylinder springs, stock springs and shocks in the rear. VERY simple and yet it is in the 1.4's for 60 fts.

Global West, Griggs, MM, all make torque arms and I am sure others do as well. They flat out work for the street or strip.
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post #12 of 16 Old 06-24-2016, 10:17 AM
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I cut a 1.29 60' with Wollf Racecraft upper and lower control arms, Wolf ARB and a 150 lb/in rear spring along with using the Kenny Brown rear lower control arm mounting brackets that essentially places the mounting point of the lower control arm 1" lower at the rear differential. Obviously had the torque boxes re-enforced. All done with a 26 X 8.5 slick. And also QA1 adjustable rear shocks. Very simple set up that works. And unlike the pictures shown above, it only carries the front tires maybe 2" off of the ground. It is driving the car forward, not up.

Kind of like this

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Best 1/8 mile time 5.339 @ 133.46 mph with a 1.29 60'
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post #13 of 16 Old 06-24-2016, 10:44 AM
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There are two large problems with the Mustang suspension. First, the stock control arm locations pull the rear tires up off the track into the wheel wells. This reduces initial hook and wastes motion by pulling the rear end up off the track.

This is mostly a LCA angle issue between the rear mounting holes and the frame box holes. It is made worse with tall tires or lowered cars.

The second issue is the rear end twists in reaction to the drive shaft torque, and that lifts the right rear tire even more. The right tire hardly does any work.

You can overcome some of this with adjustable shocks and air bags or while using exceptionally good tires. That might be enough for good tires on a good surface at modest power levels. But as soon as you start making serious power or if you have marginal tires or are running on marginal surfaces you will have to fix the actual geometry and roll problems.

Another serious issue is the Mustang pulls BACK on the upper arms with considerable force. This eventually breaks the spot welds, and pulls the UCA mounting brackets out of the floors. The left upper mount seems to have most of the pressure. Mine had pulled back about an inch. I tried to pull it back into the floor and weld in a plate, but it was too late. All it did was keep cracking the floor. This was with a year or two of 1.3-1.4 60 ft times.

Before I put any big tire on a Fox, I would tie the upper control arm mounts into the floor pan with a plate inside the car under the rear seat. Once the arms start moving out of the floor, it is beyond home garage welding to get them back in place and stable.

This is a video of rear tires pushing down into the track, instead of pulling up into the wheel wells with a reasonably controlled wheelie. This is because I angled the LCA mounting up in the front compared to the rear. Even on non-prepped tracks, unless the track is real greasy, it makes about 1.2 flat 60 ft.

I actually wheelie less after I optimized things. My front tires just barely clear the track, and this is without any wheelie bars or front end travel limiters.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BjdxwJrRwyo
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post #14 of 16 Old 06-28-2016, 03:11 PM
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stock suspension ####s all over all of that torque arm #### end of story! you can try to twist it any way you want

1.011 on 275s with stock suspension with a F3 procharged small block in little evil
1.02 on 275s with stock suspension with the white riot with a small block with an 85mm turbo at 3300 lbs!

knowing what you are doing with the IC AS and shock adjustments is where it is...

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post #15 of 16 Old 06-28-2016, 06:58 PM
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I'm going to see what my car does with truck tires. I'm entering some stupid local class and I'm not about to buy special tires for one race.


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post #16 of 16 Old 06-29-2016, 02:20 AM
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stock suspension ####s all over all of that torque arm #### end of story! you can try to twist it any way you want

1.011 on 275s with stock suspension with a F3 procharged small block in little evil
1.02 on 275s with stock suspension with the white riot with a small block with an 85mm turbo at 3300 lbs!

knowing what you are doing with the IC AS and shock adjustments is where it is...
Nobody is twisting anything. He asked, we told him what works for us...is that ok John Force?
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