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post #1 of 8 Old 04-19-2016, 05:21 PM Thread Starter
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MT ET Drag Slicks - WITH tubes??

Mickey Thompson ET Drag Slicks - WITH tubes??

I just bought Mickey Thompson ET Drag Slicks
Summit MTT-3053S

and realized, that there is "Required Parts" Mickey Thompson Racing Tubes
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do I REALLY need those tubes for racing?
Can I use just the tires?
Isnt htere a possibility that with the tubes the tube valve can be cut off?

thank you!

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post #2 of 8 Old 04-19-2016, 05:37 PM
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You do not have to run tubes , but it helps with tire stability and life of sidewall. Running tubes will require wheel screws so valve stem does not get ripped off during launch.

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post #3 of 8 Old 04-19-2016, 05:57 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Yanking Gears View Post
You do not have to run tubes , but it helps with tire stability and life of sidewall. Running tubes will require wheel screws so valve stem does not get ripped off during launch.
thank you very much
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post #4 of 8 Old 04-19-2016, 07:02 PM
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We used to use baby powder between the tube and tire so that wouldn't happen, usually.

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post #5 of 8 Old 04-19-2016, 09:08 PM
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tubes make the sidewall stiffer which seems to be the way to go with high powered stick cars

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post #6 of 8 Old 04-20-2016, 02:36 PM Thread Starter
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thank you
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post #7 of 8 Old 05-10-2016, 10:12 PM
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just reinforcing what was said, tubes will help stability on the top end. I sway a little as I approach 135-140 range. Tubes helped me a lot on my 9" slicks.

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1/4 Nos 9.879 @ 135.29 mph 1.39 12/19/15
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post #8 of 8 Old 05-10-2016, 11:39 PM
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I will offer my opinion and experience. I ran tubes for years. Decided to try without them about 15 years ago, and haven't missed them since. They can be run without tubes. HOWEVER, mickey thompson's won't hold air for more than roughly a week without tubes in them. They leak through the sidewalls and IMO that's why the sidewalls wear out so quickly, they are paper thin and porous on the M/T's. When I backhalfed my car in I think 2002 or 3, I put a set of 14x32 Mickeys on it. Wore them out in a season. When I say worn out, I mean they'd get inconsistent. Sidewalls went away, always plenty of tread left! I found a sale on some Hoosier LW 13.5x31.5, which is almost exactly the same size at the M/Ts that I was running, and tried them. I found that I "can" get 3 seasons out of them (usually replace them after a season and a half), they stay consistent even until the CORDS are showing in the tread, and they hold air. I let the car sit for something like 5 years, never touched it-sitting on the tires (not stands) and they still had 5 psi in them. I normally run them at 10, give or take a little depending on the track. No tubes.

Getting mickeys to hold air. I had a guy tell me to soap the insides of the tires before mounting them. I called BS on that but tried it anyway because Dawn is cheap. He was right. The trick is to use the entire small bottle of regular dawn dish soap inside the tire, smear it around, let it kind of dry, then smear it some more and repeat. I usually do it about 5 times, then remove the excess soap, mount them on the rim and then take them to balance. With the soap, they'll stay up for a few weeks as opposed to maybe a week (at the most) without. What was funny was that we were at a race in Memphis and the rain came, and I watched the tires' sidewalls BUBBLE, as if I had been washing them with a LOT of soap. It was just the water combining with the Dawn, then air pressure inside "leaking through". Guy at the M/T trailer said it is considered normal. This was on 28x9 M/T that I used on my '85 Coupe. I tried Hoosier in the same size and they still have the same air in them that I put in 'em in 2006. I never got a chance to run the car much to say whether they were better performing than the M/T's. I think I put 2 passes on them.

Not trying to sell a brand, just stating the experiences I've had with them. I also briefly ran a set of 32x14 Goodyears and they worked fine, but the sidewalls were SHOT (got inconsistent) MUCH faster than the M/T's...but in Goodyear's defense, that set was manufactured outside the USA, which some were at that point-and I had "heard" the same complaints around that time frame.

When I did run tubes, I found them to be a pain to deal with. Yes you'll have to screw the tires to the rims which is easy but it also ruins the rims for anything but a race car, for the most part. I also found that the tubes tended to make the 60' times a little inconsistent, even running the same tires without tubes, it was a couple hundredths more consistent. Of course, the tire gets a little stiffer with the tube installed so that might have been a chassis and tuning issue as well. Tubes also add some rotating and "sprung" weight, worth keeping in mind. If you have a flat at the track, you go home, remove the tube and replace or patch it, then try again next week. I have successfully plugged many a tubeless slick...it works, if done properly. I don't like to do it but if you're in the last pair of cars to go down the track, you try to do what you can. Within reason of course. Back then, if we could run all day long on .05 at a bracket race, people were pointing the cheating finger at you. Nowadays, if you can't run .02 or closer, you're a first round duck. Of course I'm talking about bracket racing and not heads-up. That's all I do is brackets and index, so I can't comment on running test & tune and heads up stuff which some call "real racing".
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