Suspension and Traction - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 13 Old 04-03-2016, 09:56 PM Thread Starter
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Suspension and Traction

I have all solid bushing stuff with Steeda LCA's and stock mounting points. Strange single adjustable with Team Z stuff with single adjustable coil overs on front. My car is nose heavy because of the Dart block and all the turbo crap. I can take the front bumper and crash shocks off. There isn't much else I can do up front. I do have a set of QA1 dual adjustable rear shocks on the shelf.

My car is very sensitive to shock settings and tracks, and I cannot run full power. I either get big wheelies and tire shake or spin.

I plotted my instant center and the lines do not cross out front of the axle. The lines cross way back behind the rear end, which is meaningless since it is not pushing that way.

It looks like it mainly is a LCA geometry issue with the stock control arm positions. The rear upper arms point just slightly uphill to the car front, about 1/2 inch rise over around 9-10 inch distance, so that does not look too bad. Lowering the car a tad will probably make them right.

The major issue is the LCA's point level to the front. The rear bolt holes are level with the frame holes. They need to point up to the front to intersect the UCA line at a useful place.

To make the IC someplace remotely reasonable with my car height and 28 inch tires, I would have to raise the LCA's about 2 inches at the front. Alternately, I could lower the mount point on the rear axle about one inch while raising the front point about one inch.

It seems to me the easiest way to get close would be boxing the LCA front mount point in a way that lets me adjust the LCA's at the front. If I redrilled the back about 1 inch lower and added a box that let me move the front up at various heights, I probably can line the tire patch up with the center of gravity crossing through the junction where the LCA line and UCA lines meet.

Does this all sound typical???



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89 LX. 363, single turbo, Super Vic EFI, TFS high port heads by TEA, solid roller, glide. Holley HP EFI. (exact combo varies)
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post #2 of 13 Old 04-03-2016, 11:42 PM
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Mini tub or either full tub the car for the max size tire and put some wheelie bars on it. That will fix all your traction problems unless the track prep is pure crap.


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post #3 of 13 Old 04-04-2016, 06:52 AM
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8.8 or 9"? And what upper control arm do you have?


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post #4 of 13 Old 04-04-2016, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raceallday1 View Post
Mini tub or either full tub the car for the max size tire and put some wheelie bars on it. That will fix all your traction problems unless the track prep is pure crap.
I run street class. Can't have bars, and don't want them anyway. I prefer to get the suspension geometry right.

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Originally Posted by 98yellowstangGT View Post
8.8 or 9"? And what upper control arm do you have?
8.8

I don't know the UCA type, but they are adjustable length with solid heim joints at both ends. Cannot set the angle, just length.

I can legally weld in something like a WildRides box, and probably need to do that anyway because of floor pan splitting issues.

I was looking at this:

https://wildridesracecars.com/shop/f...combo-package/

but I wonder what other people use. My floor pan in the rear has a history before I got the car, which is another reason to get a kit. I just wonder what people do. My car is too sensitive to shock, tire, and track with the LCA's pushing straight forward and the uppers pushing almost level at rest.

Looking at a plot at rest, the UCA's look reasonable but I need to get about 2 inches or maybe more rise at the front of the LCA's over what the rear are at. I did a Coral draw plot.

Thanks,
Tom


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post #5 of 13 Old 04-04-2016, 01:01 PM
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wild rids S box...

36-48" IC length with an AS around 100%

or the lyons performance torque box kits

DT Racing and Fabrication

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post #6 of 13 Old 04-04-2016, 01:55 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by SRTthis798 View Post
wild rids S box...

36-48" IC length with an AS around 100%

or the lyons performance torque box kits
Done. I just ordered the Wildrides upper and lower S box package.

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post #7 of 13 Old 04-05-2016, 01:00 PM
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do you have your stock boxes welded in? the idea of putting an S box in my car crossed my mind but cutting out my stock stuff doesnt sound like much "fun"

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post #8 of 13 Old 04-05-2016, 10:05 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by SRTthis798 View Post
do you have your stock boxes welded in? the idea of putting an S box in my car crossed my mind but cutting out my stock stuff doesnt sound like much "fun"

I'm not doing mine. My stuff has been welded, patched, and braced several times. It was a mess when I bought the car (looked like a driveshaft failure hammer stuff all up), and is worse now from stress cracks and patches.

I have a friend who is a great chassis guy and has all of the equipment.

He said just a couple days to cut all the old stuff out, weld the new stuff in, and tie the cage and frame into the new parts.

My IC plot is nonsense with 28 inch tires. If I raised the spring height and used 25-26 inch tires with would be way better, but still too low at the arm front. No wonder my car is critical for shocks and tracks.


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post #9 of 13 Old 04-06-2016, 06:47 AM
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Tom, my only comment would be to look into relocated uppers to help with the upper geometry. Or this wild rides piece may fix all your issues. Keep us posted.


Jason



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post #10 of 13 Old 04-06-2016, 09:37 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 98yellowstangGT View Post
Tom, my only comment would be to look into relocated uppers to help with the upper geometry. Or this wild rides piece may fix all your issues. Keep us posted.
The Wild rides pieces make the uppers and lowers adjustable up and down from stock, so after they are in I'm going to get both as close as possible.

I aiming for right about where the heater controls are. I know that is probably wrong, but I should know from how the car acts whether I am aiming too high or low. To hit the heater controls, I need to mostly raise the lower up to the front about 1-2 inches.

Now I see why people run 26 inch tires, even though they have less footprint.



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post #11 of 13 Old 04-06-2016, 04:31 PM
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Hey Bud, Not sure why you're trying to rewrite the book on what geometry to try, but go for it if you want to try it. When it doesn't work and/or it isn't stable on the topend please go back to the geometry that is known to work. You're making a LOT of HP to start playing guessing games.

ks


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post #12 of 13 Old 04-06-2016, 11:18 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by KEVIN$ View Post
Hey Bud, Not sure why you're trying to rewrite the book on what geometry to try, but go for it if you want to try it. When it doesn't work and/or it isn't stable on the topend please go back to the geometry that is known to work. You're making a LOT of HP to start playing guessing games.

ks

I have a lot of weight on the front end. Exactly what geometry is known to work for my car?


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post #13 of 13 Old 04-07-2016, 01:47 AM
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I have a lot of weight on the front end. Exactly what geometry is known to work for my car?
Sent you a PM..

ks


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