Strange HyTuff Race axle/spool/c clip elim install - Ford Mustang Forums : Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 1 Old 04-01-2016, 01:51 PM Thread Starter
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Strange HyTuff Race axle/spool/c clip elim install

This was a winter project on a race only car, so the luxury of time was involved, but having said that could easily be a weekend project if you worked diligently. Either way, I can't stress enough how much easier it will be, and most likely produce a better quality of work if you remove the axle from the car. Hang the calipers, four bolts and its out (assuming you don't have quad shocks).

My axle was a 2001 so the Strange kit was P2000FM94. Got it from Summit for $609.00 That included 33 spline HyTuff race axles (full induction hardened unlike the alloy race axles which are surface hardened) lightweight race spool, and c clip eliminator components.

I began by cutting off the quad shock brackets and cutting off the axle tubes per instructions in prep for the cclip elims.

I suspect how well you do this has a major impact on a good seal or getting leaks down the road. There is a lip in the tube that defines where to stop, and to get it just right I cut the tube a little long and then used a roloc disc to grind it down exactly. Stuff a towel up the tube so you dont get a bunch of metal dust in there. Then I cleaned up the flange with a scotch brite disc.

Then I popped out the diff stock rubber bushings in prep for some UPR spherical bushings. Perfect time to do it.

Next was taking my 456's off the old trac lock and installing the spool. This became the most time consuming part of the whole project, getting my setup correct, pre-load, backlash, pinion depth and a good competition pattern was tedious, although I'm sure I made it hard on myself. Thats normal.

Something I learned in doing this thats important. If you plan on taking your old pinion bearing and grinding it out to use as a checking bearing for setup, forget it. I was using the Ford Racing gear install kit, all new bearings and cups, pinion, and diff. A few years back as a result of the GT500 having diff and pinion issues, Ford started using what they refer to as a High Torque pinion bearing. It is dimensionally the same in depth, but the rollers and cup are at different angles. I guess I could have used the old bearing as a checker if I had left the old race in, then once my setup was correct do the new race and high torque bearing, but I chose not to. That meant I needed by buy another high torque bearing to grind out as a checker. The HT bearing in the kit and the one I bought to match were KOYO STD 4183. And with the new HT race in, all you need to buy is the bearing. Just think of it as investing in a tool. You'll have it forever.

I was also using a solid spacer instead of a crush collar. One more variable to figure out to get right preload. It's just trial and error, but quite a few trials. Getting the right pinion depth in conjuction with the side spacers on the spool was very tedious and when you get the Ford Racing gear install kit it comes with a stack of side shims. They are OK for finding a setup (sort of) but you cannot drive them in as you must to get the proper side to side preload. They just bend and are useless. Your diff should have two one piece side spacers, and they should be very close. Mine were not. I was lucky that a buddy works in parts at a Ford dealer, and they had a box full of side spacers of various thickness. I just miked them all and figured it out. The relationship of side spacers and pinion shim is very tricky as one affects the other. Side shims move the ring, pinion shim moves the pinion (to state the obvious). Tricky. You can use the shim stack in the kit to get close, and when you mic the stack you can actually order a solid spacer from Ford. And I must say, I called the Ford Racing tech hotline twice, and one of the techs there is very up to speed on gears and diffs. Wish I could remember his name. He said when in doubt start out with a .030 pinion shim. I wound up at .032. He's also the one who clued me in to the whole High Torque bearing issue. If you try using a non HT bearing as a checker in the new HT bearing race the angle don't match and your setup when you install the HT bearing will be way off and you will have aleady pressed on the new HT onto your pinion. Nightmare.

At the end of the day, I wound up with what looked like a good pattern........Drive


and backlash

Next was assembling the c clip elims on the axles. If you ever do this and don't have a press you can order the axle with the c clip elims installed by Strange. It might be well worth it.

The instructions from Strange are good, and pretty straightforward. I ordered my axles with 3" screw in studs, which can be put in after the c clip elim is pressed on. Makes working on the press much easier.

When all assembled the axles go in, and this is when you realize the time spent on the axle tube ends and flange need to be done right. A gasket is supplied, but the prudent use of a good gear oil resistant
rtv is wise.

And to wrap it all up, installed the spherical bushings, girdle, and a fresh coat of paint.

Can't wait to get to the track in a couple weeks to see how the spool works. My traction lock had about 150+ 6K clutch launches on slicks and was starting to go away. Last couple times at the track last fall it would do an occasional one legger burnout. As well as the spherical bushings.

99 coupe. C4/8 5000 stall w/2003 Mach crate motor FRPP stock N/A, Kooks LT's and X,dumps no muffs. 4.56's
Best ET 11.42 Best MPH 116.33Best 60" 1.49
Coincidence. A convenient and overused word for the mentally lazy.
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