Billet steel or aluminum - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 11 Old 02-11-2016, 11:21 AM Thread Starter
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Billet steel or aluminum

Looking into flywheel options. Car is a street strip turbo car. 3400lbs. Thinking of getting spec stage 3+ clutch. Always ran a billet FRPP flywheel, but that might be toast.


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post #2 of 11 Old 02-11-2016, 12:05 PM
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I guess it all depends on how the current setup works. stage 3+ is going to destroy the tire. So if you really need that much clutch then an aluminum would probably be a little easier on the tire.



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post #3 of 11 Old 02-11-2016, 12:07 PM
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Maybe this will get you started: https://forums.corral.net/forums/drag...-vs-steel.html

I ended up with an aluminum one. I don't race the car enough to know if it is quicker, and on the street it's hard to say if it's harder to start out, because I also installed a more aggressive disc at the same time and I have a little chatter that I have to drive around.
I wouldn't want to daily drive it, but everyone is different on this kind of stuff.
My car is a mid to high 11 second car.
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post #4 of 11 Old 02-11-2016, 12:41 PM Thread Starter
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Best last season was [email protected] Been running a ram hd for the last 3 years. Overall been a good clutch lots of street miles and hard launches on slicks.

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post #5 of 11 Old 02-11-2016, 10:20 PM
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Funny I just replied to your other thread about clutches.
If you're going to run a clutch like a 3+ I would run a steel flywheel. The spec 3 and 3+ grab so darn hard I think you would benefit from the extra inertia in the steel flywheel.
I've run a stage 3 disc on a dual friction pressure plate and that griped very hard. The spec pressure plates have lots of clamping force. I read somewhere 3800 lbs where most others are under 3000 lbs.
I have a buddy that used the equivalent in his f body and it's like a toggle switch. I bought one as well (stage 3+) but I never used it since I was worried I would shred my transmission. Plus my 3 disc and df pp held up fine with my combo. 450 rwhp on a mustang dyno. 500 ish on a dynojet.

Greg

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post #6 of 11 Old 02-12-2016, 11:04 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by rian418 View Post
Funny I just replied to your other thread about clutches.

If you're going to run a clutch like a 3+ I would run a steel flywheel. The spec 3 and 3+ grab so darn hard I think you would benefit from the extra inertia in the steel flywheel.

I've run a stage 3 disc on a dual friction pressure plate and that griped very hard. The spec pressure plates have lots of clamping force. I read somewhere 3800 lbs where most others are under 3000 lbs.

I have a buddy that used the equivalent in his f body and it's like a toggle switch. I bought one as well (stage 3+) but I never used it since I was worried I would shred my transmission. Plus my 3 disc and df pp held up fine with my combo. 450 rwhp on a mustang dyno. 500 ish on a dynojet.



Greg

See I've heard that because of the clamping power of the 3+ an aluminum fw might be a better choice. More forgiving when launching hard

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post #7 of 11 Old 02-12-2016, 01:23 PM
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Here's the flywheel dilemma with a clutch that engages too quickly...

...heavier flywheel stores more energy meaning less bog, but easier to break parts and harder to hook the tires. Engine gains rpm slower.
...lite flywheel stores less energy meaning more bog, but less likely to break parts and easier to hook the tires. Engines gains rpm faster.

A clutch better matched to the combination will have just enough capacity to hold in high gear at the engine's torque peak, which allows it to initially slip more when the clutch is dumped. This softer engagement results in less bog, less likely to break parts, and easier to hook the tires. This allows you to "have it all" by choosing a lite flywheel without incurring the nasty bog that would usually come with it. There are a couple problems with this though-
...the trial and error process to find just the right balance of "clutch vs power" for your combo can be expensive
...any significant increase in power will upset your "clutch vs power" balance
If you are a nitrous user, this basically means you must compromise your NA potential in order to still have enough clutch capacity to handle the spray.

To address this issue on my nitrous street/strip car, i came up with a simple way to easily adjust how hard the clutch initially hits.
...allows you to easily adjust the hit of the clutch to suit either NA or nitrous hits
...allows you to enjoy the benefits of a lite flywheel without fear of a bog
...allows you to choose as low of launch rpm as you want (no-prep anyone?) without fear of a bog
...allows you to choose a clutch with excess capacity, leaving room for future growth without incurring the penalties of too much clutch capacity.

Grant

ClutchTamer.com
We make your non-adjustable clutch...ADJUSTABLE!!!

Last edited by weenburner; 02-12-2016 at 01:29 PM.
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post #8 of 11 Old 02-12-2016, 03:12 PM
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What he said.
I've never tried anything like a clutch tamer so I can't comment.
But yeah if your clutch is very aggressive you may need a bit heavier flywheel to control the bog. On the other hand if traction is an issue using a lighter flywheel can help that by incurring a bit of a bog. It's impossible to know what you'll need until you try it. I would think if he clutch is proper for the combo an aluminum will be the way to go nearly every time. I just don't think the aggressive characteristics of a 3 or 3+ will ever allow for an aluminum. My buddy has a built 440 sbc and still has to launch at 6-7000rpm with a steel wheel with his 3+.
Right now for my new combo I have a steel and aluminum flywheel sitting here. I also have a ram powergrip, a powergrip hd, and a spec 3+ sitting here. I'm going to start with the aluminum and powergrip and modify from there. I am dealing with a different issue as well though. I have a transmission that is most likely barely up to the task so that's part of why I'm starting with a less grippy clutch and a lighter flywheel.
How does your car behave now? Are you dealing with a bog or a traction issue?
If you're interested in a 3+ I'd be willing to sell mine. I can't see myself using it. I've had it on the shelf for about 5 or 6 years now....

Greg

86 f150 wimbledon white and grey shorty with a few bolt ons.
92 cslypso hatch with a few stock parts.
04 f350 crew with the power joke.
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post #9 of 11 Old 02-12-2016, 06:11 PM
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Posted by mistake. Sorry.
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post #10 of 11 Old 02-12-2016, 06:29 PM
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Your starting out the right way Rian with your Astro. That's all I'm running with my ride. Regular Ram organic with aluminum flywheel. Tire pressures and launch RPM are the key to longevity. Doesn't do the drivetrain any good to slaughter it with hook with the clutch or tire. Find the balance point with both, and adjust from there.

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post #11 of 11 Old 02-13-2016, 12:26 AM Thread Starter
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Here's the thing, I'm looking for a clutch that is going to hold my power and put it to the ground when I need it to but also be a decent clutch when street driving.
I know the 3+ will hold the power and put it to the ground also heard it will be a decent street friendly clutch.
I want to know what flywheel will be ideal for a street/strip car. Mostly street. I've ran a centerforce df and ram. Liked them both. Both against a FRPP billet fw. However felt the centerforce wore out too quick and always had an issue with the ram finding the sweet spot to really bang the gears with ease. That being said the ram has taken 3 years of abuse and is still decent but since I'm building a new motor I want to upgrade.

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