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post #1 of 53 Old 01-09-2012, 10:14 AM Thread Starter
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Drag suspension?

What are you guys running in the rear that gets that good lowered stance but works well at the track without spending over $500? I hate that my car sits to high. right now im just running 4 cyl rears. Do the bolt in coil overs work well?


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post #2 of 53 Old 01-09-2012, 10:29 AM
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I have over $500 in my rear suspension. But it is all teamz parts. Best money I ever spent.


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post #3 of 53 Old 01-09-2012, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
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Does it lower the car?

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post #4 of 53 Old 01-09-2012, 10:38 AM
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cut one coil from a set of v-8 rear coils should put you where you want to be.
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post #5 of 53 Old 01-09-2012, 11:14 AM
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the video explains the springs about 3.5 minutes in!

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post #6 of 53 Old 01-09-2012, 11:40 AM
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Does it lower the car?
My car is lowered. I cut 1.5 60' times on a crappy track. I have stock gt springs with 1 coil cut off. Teamz double adjustable lowers, conventional double adjustable uppers, teamz anti roll bar and strange 10 way shocks. I have installed the upper relocation upper control arm set up that teamz sells a bunch of times and it just plain works! I will be switching to it soon. The cost is more than the $500 you mentioned, but the parts work. I bought each part individually as money allowed.

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post #7 of 53 Old 01-10-2012, 12:24 AM
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get some stock V8 springs for sure, they will lower it some
only suspension I have is V8 springs, southside lowers, and comp engineering shocks
there are better products, but I have maybe $100 in this(all used of course)

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post #8 of 53 Old 01-10-2012, 01:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FordFreak300 View Post
My car is lowered. I cut 1.5 60' times on a crappy track. I have stock gt springs with 1 coil cut off. Teamz double adjustable lowers, conventional double adjustable uppers, teamz anti roll bar and strange 10 way shocks. I have installed the upper relocation upper control arm set up that teamz sells a bunch of times and it just plain works! I will be switching to it soon. The cost is more than the $500 you mentioned, but the parts work. I bought each part individually as money allowed.
Since I just got the team z relocated uppers and you have installed them a couple times, what are you doing with the adjustments? Are you installing them full in and then adjusting later or are you measuring everything when you install. Was just curious since I only have one weekend to do the install and don't have time to plot the suspension lines and anti squat etc.
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post #9 of 53 Old 01-10-2012, 06:02 PM
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With the relocated uppers your only change is setting the pinion angle. To change the suspension geometry you have to cut your springs. I used to cut a little and plot the suspension and then cut a little and plot the suspension. Now I just listen to Dave and cut 1 coil off and it's usually right on.

Since you only have 1 weekend to do your install have a small grinder handy. Sometimes the casting marks on the rear end where the bushings are removed is a little nasty an needs to be ground down for the relocation plates to fit. I also use the maximum motorsports rear end bushing removale tool. Other wise use a 3/8 drill bit and let it walk around the rubber. Then the rubber can be pried out. Use a cold chisel to knock the bushing outer sleeve in on it's self and then hammer it out. The maximum motorsports tool is much faster though.

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post #10 of 53 Old 01-11-2012, 07:59 PM
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Another vote for regular GT springs and cutting a coil off. I actually took 1 1/4 off mine but because I run a 28" DR and I didn't want the rake. Either way I've pulled mid 1.3's on the jug so it works for me.

Just find a friend around you town that has a set for a few bucks and cut them.


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post #11 of 53 Old 01-11-2012, 09:54 PM
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Im on lowering springs now and hate them, Im putting in a set of stock v8 springs before it goes to the track. Plus i have a hard time fitting my 26in mt drags without a little rub, and iv took a hammer to the inside fender wells an used a fender roller. Best bet is to use stock springs and cut what you have too..

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post #12 of 53 Old 01-13-2012, 05:30 PM
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Using a 275/60 Drag Radial how much clearance works the best height wise.

Or how high does the car sit .. Meaning height from ground to lip on quarter panel.

can having the car sit too low have an issue? I know too high looks like crap.. But is it where the tire is visible under normal stance?

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post #13 of 53 Old 01-13-2012, 09:05 PM
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here is my rear suspension

front is D&D tubular k member and a arms, strange coil overs

rear is team z relocated uppers, team z double adj. lowers with sway bar. after market stock location sway bar, stock springs 1 coil cut out. strange adj. shocks in the rear. 275/50/17 M&H best of 1.33 60 foot on 28x10.5x15 slicks but with M&H drag radials runs a consist 1.44-1.48


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post #14 of 53 Old 01-14-2012, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by chevyguy15 View Post
here is my rear suspension

front is D&D tubular k member and a arms, strange coil overs

rear is team z relocated uppers, team z double adj. lowers with sway bar. after market stock location sway bar, stock springs 1 coil cut out. strange adj. shocks in the rear. 275/50/17 M&H best of 1.33 60 foot on 28x10.5x15 slicks but with M&H drag radials runs a consist 1.44-1.48


That's a beautiful car!!! I wish I had one like that for a daily driver!

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post #15 of 53 Old 01-14-2012, 07:42 PM
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That's a beautiful car!!! I wish I had one like that for a daily driver!
thanks. it was a crappy cell phone pick even so it didnt turn out that good. im redoing the motor and turbo kit again. hoping to be faster in 2012! going from twin turbo to 78mm.
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post #16 of 53 Old 01-14-2012, 11:49 PM
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What am I missing here? I've got BMR Lowers and Adjustable Uppers, Stock V8 Springs (not cut) and Lakewood Drag Shocks with 275/60x15 MT DRs and the fender lips rolled and The tires BARELY fit in the wheel well..... So I'm confused how y'all are cutting a coil off the springs and not rubbing the crap outta your tires?? Thanks for any help/info.

--Ryan


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302, X-cam, 1.6 RR, PP E7s, GT40 Intake Manifold, 70mm TB, 76mm C&L MAF, T5, Buncha Suspension..... Hopin to break into the 15's
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post #17 of 53 Old 01-15-2012, 01:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Lifted94XLT View Post
What am I missing here? I've got BMR Lowers and Adjustable Uppers, Stock V8 Springs (not cut) and Lakewood Drag Shocks with 275/60x15 MT DRs and the fender lips rolled and The tires BARELY fit in the wheel well..... So I'm confused how y'all are cutting a coil off the springs and not rubbing the crap outta your tires?? Thanks for any help/info.

--Ryan
every car is a little different. what rims and backspacing are you running?
i also run a 275/60 MT with a weld 15x8. I had to do alot of BFHin on the inside but havent had any issues with the rolled fenders. a friend runs a 28x10.5 MT slick and only had to roll the fenders. both are 4 cylinder convos, not sure that matters tho, maybe they werent abused ALL their life. lol

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post #18 of 53 Old 01-15-2012, 01:21 AM
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every car is a little different. what rims and backspacing are you running?
i also run a 275/60 MT with a weld 15x8. I had to do alot of BFHin on the inside but havent had any issues with the rolled fenders. a friend runs a 28x10.5 MT slick and only had to roll the fenders. both are 4 cylinder convos, not sure that matters tho, maybe they werent abused ALL their life. lol
I'm running a 15x8 Greg Weld wheel with standard backspacing (4.5 I think). My car is a 4cylinder convert also. I haven't done any beating to the inner fender yet though.


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post #19 of 53 Old 01-15-2012, 01:53 AM
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I'm running a 15x8 Greg Weld wheel with standard backspacing (4.5 I think). My car is a 4cylinder convert also. I haven't done any beating to the inner fender yet though.
I had to beat/grind alot. I also run southside lowers that the mounts are a lil different.

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post #20 of 53 Old 01-15-2012, 09:02 AM
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You don't by chance have a picture of what all you did to your fenders do ya? Just curious to see what it takes.


92 Mustang LX Coupe -
302, X-cam, 1.6 RR, PP E7s, GT40 Intake Manifold, 70mm TB, 76mm C&L MAF, T5, Buncha Suspension..... Hopin to break into the 15's
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post #21 of 53 Old 01-15-2012, 03:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Z View Post
Team Z Motorsports Lower Control Arms Install - YouTube

the video explains the springs about 3.5 minutes in!
i also see in this vid your relocated uppers, when i bought my double adjustables from you last year i wish you would of said something about this kit. now its not in the budget is there any way to get a good IC and AS with out this kit? raise ride height?
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post #22 of 53 Old 01-15-2012, 04:11 PM
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i also see in this vid your relocated uppers, when i bought my double adjustables from you last year i wish you would of said something about this kit. now its not in the budget is there any way to get a good IC and AS with out this kit? raise ride height?
un fortunatly no ther is a point where it starts to get close but that's when the car is mini tubed and slamed!

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post #23 of 53 Old 01-15-2012, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Lifted94XLT View Post
What am I missing here? I've got BMR Lowers and Adjustable Uppers, Stock V8 Springs (not cut) and Lakewood Drag Shocks with 275/60x15 MT DRs and the fender lips rolled and The tires BARELY fit in the wheel well..... So I'm confused how y'all are cutting a coil off the springs and not rubbing the crap outta your tires?? Thanks for any help/info.

--Ryan
my fenders are rolled and the inners are "massaged" to get it to fit, then the car was painted afterwards.
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post #24 of 53 Old 01-15-2012, 09:19 PM
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un fortunatly no ther is a point where it starts to get close but that's when the car is mini tubed and slamed!
what about relocating the lower control arm mounts? and leave the uppers in the stock location?
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post #25 of 53 Old 01-16-2012, 01:13 PM
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what about relocating the lower control arm mounts? and leave the uppers in the stock location?
you can do that the problem is is once the AS value gets above 100% with the lower moved down in the back it starts to beat up the torque boxes. Really it's like the old south side lift bars and mega bites, they worked in the 80's and 90's but there wasn't better stuff around then!

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post #26 of 53 Old 01-16-2012, 05:35 PM
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right now my AS is 22% and IC is like 200 inches. car has horrible 60ft. blows the tire off and car squats very bad till the point it bottoms out. your telling me the only way to get a good 60ft it with the uppers moved? car has been 1.45 should easily at least 0.1 faster car traps 151 in the 1/4
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post #27 of 53 Old 01-25-2012, 10:56 PM
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AS....anti squat? How is this measured and what is a good baseline on a stock style suspension car? Also.....IC....instant center? How is this measured and what is a good baseline for a stock style suspension car???? Thanks guys.....Lakewood lowers with weight jacker spring perches, steel boxed uppers, and a stock sway bar is what I got....looking for a scrap metal truck lol....then a bit of funds....then making a call to team z ASAP!

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post #28 of 53 Old 01-26-2012, 12:15 PM
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http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/...03/93Coupe.jpg

Here is a pic of my 93 Coupe 4cyl conversion. I have dbl adjustable uppers, UPR lowers. I run 4cyl springs, I cut 1.5 coil out, the tires are a 26 x10.5 drag radial. If you can tell in the pic I have not even rolled the fenders (1 inch from top of tire to fender clearance). I just got the car together (after a year of building) so I have not even played with the coil overs on the front, but all in all I think it has a pretty decent stance so far.
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post #29 of 53 Old 01-26-2012, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Z View Post
Team Z Motorsports Lower Control Arms Install - YouTube

the video explains the springs about 3.5 minutes in!
I am a big stock suspension racer, one of my cars runs 5.20's in 1/8. I run the UPR rear suspension (with the stock location coilovers) with a 28 10.5 slick. My question is for you Dave: The definition of stock suspension is anything that does not change the factory geometry IE: the relocation bracket in your kit does change the geometry. Can you please explain why this is accepted as stock suspension when it is clearly not. Hell, I have people give me a hard time about my rear coilovers, but they bolt exactly where the stock shocks bolt and does not change the geometry of the rear. I know if I showed up to run 5.70 ss my car with this kit would not pass tech....Any insight would be great

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post #30 of 53 Old 01-26-2012, 04:31 PM
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at what track?ive always heard as long as it bolts in the stock location its legal,geometry has nothing to do with it,just where the mounting points are
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post #31 of 53 Old 01-26-2012, 05:17 PM
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at what track?ive always heard as long as it bolts in the stock location its legal,geometry has nothing to do with it,just where the mounting points are
I dont see how you could say that the control arm bolts in the stock location. Ask your self this: If I were to build a bracket on the lower control arm mount(Front mount) that allows me to change the elevation of the control arm, is this stock suspension?
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post #32 of 53 Old 01-26-2012, 05:24 PM
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thats already been done quite a few times and the cars are still legal for stock suspension races,as long as the componet's bolt into the stock location in the torque box. its crappy yes i agree,i do see your point too as i dont agree with it either,but i have seen cars pass tech at alot of stock suspenion races like that
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post #33 of 53 Old 01-26-2012, 05:57 PM
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thats already been done quite a few times and the cars are still legal for stock suspension races,as long as the componet's bolt into the stock location in the torque box. its crappy yes i agree,i do see your point too as i dont agree with it either,but i have seen cars pass tech at alot of stock suspenion races like that
IMO it's not stock unless it is truely stock. I think running 5.7 ss and faster is a prestegious title, but kits like this and tracks passing cars with an adjustable 4 link, takes that away. It is hard to make a small tire go fast and straight, this defiently takes the cake for me.
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post #34 of 53 Old 01-26-2012, 06:17 PM
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we have true stock suspension cars running way faster then 70's so believe me i knwo what your saying,i was just saying i have never saw a track not pass a car that has daves upper setup and we probably do more stock suspension racing in the southeast then 90% of people
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post #35 of 53 Old 01-26-2012, 08:48 PM
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we have trmy ue stock suspension cars running way faster then 70's so believe me i knwo what your saying,i was just saying i have never saw a track not pass a car that has daves upper setup and we probably do more stock suspension racing in the southeast then 90% of people
my car will go twenties, just makes me think why push the envelope when tracks are accepting modified stock. Its similar to the street car debate I guesd
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