drag racing help!!!!!!! - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 23 Old 10-07-2008, 11:45 AM Thread Starter
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drag racing help!!!!!!!

ok i think i have a problem with weight transfer at the track. this is my setup and im looking for opinions and thoughts. i have a 3000lbs 1968 mustang:

drivetrain

-302 bored 30 over

-trick flow aluminum head

-8" 4:11 posi rear end

-msd ignition

-air gap intake

-gear drive

-motor all blue printed and blanced

-holley double pumper carb

-holley fuel pump

-world class t-5 tranny

-shorty headers with 2 chamber flows dumped



suspension: pretty damn stiff...



-620 front coils

-grab atrack shock front & rear

-5 1/2 mid eye leaf springs

-1 1/2" front sway bar

-rear sway bar

-17" torque thrust 245/40/17 the front and 245/45/17 nitto drags in the rear.

-stupid slapper bars..



went to the track last wed. and was launching around 2800rpm. my 60ft was 2.0, 13.6 @ 104 mph.



this car motor should be in the 13 flat range how can i get there?? please give me some suggestions: power or suspension?



thanks

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post #2 of 23 Old 10-07-2008, 12:38 PM
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Lose the front sway bar, 6cyl springs and loose shocks on the front. Are the slappers touching the spring eye? If not adjust them so they are. try a 15' M/T Drag radial or ET Street. On my Fox car I was ETing 12.80's @ 103 3140 race weight


Romans 12:2 , 86 GT Bracket Car, 347 carbed/Vic jr's/Parker/ProSys 780/C-4,10.63 @ 125 bullets & Slicks, My dyno is 1320 ft. long.
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post #3 of 23 Old 10-07-2008, 01:28 PM Thread Starter
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ive been hearing that alot... lose the front sway bar... can i just unbolt it from the lower control arms and race with it still attached to the frame? i have to drive 45 mins to get to the track so i have to keep it streetable with shocks... damn i need a car trailer... i was thinking of getting some drag springs and shocks... think this will make a nice difference?
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post #4 of 23 Old 10-07-2008, 01:45 PM
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double post

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post #5 of 23 Old 10-07-2008, 01:49 PM
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you'll be fine driving it w/o a front swaybar, just take it easy in on turns and take a little extra time to slow down until you're used to ti
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post #6 of 23 Old 10-07-2008, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
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i will give it a try..thanks.. i think im going to put some subframe connectors on first then take the sway bar off and drive take it for a cruise to get the feel.
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post #7 of 23 Old 10-07-2008, 08:03 PM
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You can just unhook the sway bar when you race and attach it for the street. Not too hard to do. Those 620's hurt weight transfer big time, 6 cyl springs would be better for the strip. You can get adjustable front shocks. Slapper bars aren't ideal, but can be made to work. I'd suggesrt the type that have a bar that mounts under the spring shackle and attach to a bracket under the spring eye, not sure of the name but caltrack comes to mind. Or find a used set of South Side lift bars.

Was the car spinning? Those short sidewall tires look good, but may be too stiff to absorb the shock of a clutch dump. To get your 60's down, you'll probably have to come out harder and/or go to a lower gear (4.30, 4.56). It's tough when you have to compromise street ability with track performance, one or the other or most usually both suffer.

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post #8 of 23 Old 10-07-2008, 08:41 PM
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Here's a link for the caltrac's. They aren't cheap, but they work.

http://www.calvertracing.com/caltracs.html

91 notch, 408W, 10.5 comp, Jay Allen cam, Crane linkbars, Scorpion rockers, vic jr intake/heads, Canton pan, Mac longtubes, C4, UPR adj. uppers/lowers, Strange struts/shocks, subframe connectors, wild rides 6pt, Team Z k-member/anti-roll bar, MSD ignition.

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post #9 of 23 Old 10-08-2008, 11:00 AM Thread Starter
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anybody ever try these? http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku looks like the same basic design.'


and these look like the caltrak but non-adjustable...but way cheaper...what do u guys think? http://www.mustangsplus.com/xcart/pr...at=2142&page=1
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post #10 of 23 Old 10-08-2008, 12:56 PM
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I went 1.60's with slapper bars, so they will work fine. However, Caltracs work much better. (its what I have now) Here is a vid of how its leaving now, it works very well. I wouldn't worry about your rear setup till you have more power. Should be just fine. Plus the Caltracs on the street can be pretty noisy compared to the Traction Bars.

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/R...rip_189295.htm

I would just do the 6 cyl springs, some 90/10 shocks and unbolt or remove the sway bar.



I have a set of Summit 90/10s that new are 26.00 each. Ill sell them to ya for 30 shipped for both. (I went with the Calvert ones, didn't really make a lot of difference)


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post #11 of 23 Old 10-08-2008, 01:22 PM Thread Starter
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nice ride..that thing leaves great... so would it be better to go with the 6cyl springs or buy some drag springs from summit..they are about the same price..?? http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
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post #12 of 23 Old 10-08-2008, 01:31 PM
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The 6 cyl ones, those would be fine if you had a BBF in it.

That track was so slick that night, 59 degrees out and 57 degree dew point.

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Make FORD
Model MUSTANG
Beginning Year 1967
Ending Year 1970
Engine Type V8
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post #13 of 23 Old 10-08-2008, 01:52 PM Thread Starter
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Cool thanks... i think im gonna start there... remove the sway bar at the track, put some 6cy coils in, front drag shock and rear drag shocks. i will keep the slapper bars on for my first time out and then go with the cal traks... i'm worried about my front end smacking my front tires and cutting them up.. i rolled the wheel wells so i guess i can only hope they will fit..
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post #14 of 23 Old 10-08-2008, 01:59 PM
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You will prob sit about an inch higher going from the 620's to the 6 cylinder springs. At least I did on my car.

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post #15 of 23 Old 10-08-2008, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
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oh.... 1" higher.. do u think it would hurt it to cut a little out of the 6 cyl coils?
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post #16 of 23 Old 10-08-2008, 02:38 PM
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I dunno, I plan to do mine next yr to test it, but since only one race for me is left it will have to wait.

On your setup, I doubt it would hurt/help anything though. If you start getting into the low 11's high 10's then I could maybe see it. It will give it more suspension travel so it could actually help. Too many factors.

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post #17 of 23 Old 10-08-2008, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
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Cool.. i still want it to look decent.. i only make it to the track like 4 times a year... its my weekend warrior car..

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post #18 of 23 Old 10-08-2008, 02:49 PM
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So what psi were the nittos at?

Drag radials + stick = poor 60ft.

You are going to be limited until you replace that 8" with a 9"

Slicks and a stick leaving at 3000+ RPM will break an axle in a hurry.
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post #19 of 23 Old 10-08-2008, 03:04 PM Thread Starter
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i dropped the nittos down to 18psi and then to 12 psi. yeah my weak link is
8" rear end. the guy who built it said it would support 400 hp. guess i will prove him wrong when it breaks.... i upgraded to the stronger 3rd member and stronger posi unit... down the road if i end up upgrading to more power, its first on the list to be swapped out...
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post #20 of 23 Old 10-08-2008, 07:47 PM
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The 8" 28 spline and 9" 28 spline factory axles are of equal size and strength. The weak link on the 8" is the pinion support and case. Have seen an 8" pinion forced right out the front of the case on a dead hooking car.

You'll gain strength with the 9" case and if you upgrade to 31 spline or larger axles. You'll lose some useable horsepower turning the 9" and will gain a little weight.

If you nail down what gear ratio you want, install an 8.8 with 9"axle bearing ends. You'll gain strength, stay about the same weight as the 8" and maybe gain back some lost horsepower because the 8.8 is more efficient than either the 8" or 9".

I went with a 9" because of it's strength, and I swap out the gears, depending on the 1/8 mile or 1/4 mile track. Alot easier and faster than an 8.8 although it takes more power to turnover.

91 notch, 408W, 10.5 comp, Jay Allen cam, Crane linkbars, Scorpion rockers, vic jr intake/heads, Canton pan, Mac longtubes, C4, UPR adj. uppers/lowers, Strange struts/shocks, subframe connectors, wild rides 6pt, Team Z k-member/anti-roll bar, MSD ignition.
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post #21 of 23 Old 10-08-2008, 10:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 67coug View Post
yeah my weak link is 8" rear end. the guy who built it said it would support 400 hp.
Unless you have moser axles it will snap the driver's side with a good launch without a doubt.

I broke two till I decided on not racing the car anymore . . . and that was with 300rwhp and a t5
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post #22 of 23 Old 10-09-2008, 06:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by streetfalcon View Post

Drag radials + stick = poor 60ft.

You are going to be limited until you replace that 8" with a 9"
IMO this sums it up.Your tires are the single most thing holding you back.
Put a full slick or et drag on it,raise the launch rpm and the 60s improve,and then maybe you grenade the diff.
Maybe a set of 15" MT radials improve your hook while allowing your 8 inch to live?
On a side note,I've gone as fast as 1.50 60ft on ET drags and "stupid slapper bars",LOL.
Good luck,beautiful car you have there!

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post #23 of 23 Old 10-09-2008, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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thanks..u guys have pointed me in the right direction. so out of everything i got, that rear end is the problem when i get the traction i need.. so 9" is in the future. i have a cougar that i will throw my 4:11 3rd member in....
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