When do you need a kill switch??? - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 Old 08-28-2008, 02:39 PM Thread Starter
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When do you need a kill switch???

At what point do you need one?


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post #2 of 14 Old 08-28-2008, 02:42 PM
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Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but you only need it when relocating your battery to the rear of the vehicle.


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post #3 of 14 Old 08-28-2008, 03:17 PM
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Most tracks I've been too require them if the battery is relocated to the rear. If you're not taking it to the track to run then there's no need to have one.

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post #4 of 14 Old 08-28-2008, 03:18 PM
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if the battery is in the trunk.

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post #5 of 14 Old 08-28-2008, 03:39 PM Thread Starter
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Hey thanks for the quick replys!

Question was geared towards the track.

My problem is that if the car is running and I turn the switch to the off position the car wouldn't actually die.

But if the car is off and the switch on the off position the car wouldn't start.??????

I bought the car this way and no I am stumped.

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post #6 of 14 Old 08-28-2008, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by forbanger View Post
Hey thanks for the quick replys!

Question was geared towards the track.

My problem is that if the car is running and I turn the switch to the off position the car wouldn't actually die.

But if the car is off and the switch on the off position the car wouldn't start.??????

I bought the car this way and no I am stumped.
sounds like just the ignition is switched off, and not the alternator.
The car will still run.

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post #7 of 14 Old 08-28-2008, 04:34 PM
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Run the wire from the alternator to the battery side of the switch.

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post #8 of 14 Old 08-29-2008, 12:50 AM Thread Starter
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Well, I took the panel off in the trunk to take a look on how the switch is actually hooked up and here is what I have found.

Looks like the heavy guage positive wire running from the alternator is on one post of the kill switch and a positve guage wire on the second post of the kill switch goes directly to the battery. So when the car is running and I turn off the kill switch it just disconnects the battery thus the car is still running off the alternator, and the opposite happens when the car is off. won't start when the battery is not hooked up.

Here is the weird part...The post where the alternator wire is hooked up also has 2 other wires hooked up. Wires look like they go to the fuel pump relays (I have 2 pumps).

Should I switch the wires around so the battery and fuel pumps are on the same post? I guess this way when the pumps are cut off the car will shut off.. right?

I won't do anything until someone replys.

Thanks!

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Last edited by forbanger; 08-29-2008 at 12:52 AM.
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post #9 of 14 Old 08-29-2008, 01:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ashentep View Post
Run the wire from the alternator to the battery side of the switch.
which alternator wire are you referring to?

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post #10 of 14 Old 08-29-2008, 04:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by forbanger View Post
Hey thanks for the quick replys!

Question was geared towards the track.

My problem is that if the car is running and I turn the switch to the off position the car wouldn't actually die.

But if the car is off and the switch on the off position the car wouldn't start.??????

I bought the car this way and no I am stumped.

The kill switch on race cars is not really a "kill" switch,it is a battery disconnect switch.This allows emergency disconnection of the battery in the event of a crash to prevent the battery from shorting out and causing a fire and you only need it if you are sanction body(NHRA,IHRA,etc.) racing and it is in the trunk. Steve

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post #11 of 14 Old 08-29-2008, 04:30 PM
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Why do you only need one when its moved to the trunk? That doesnt make much sense to me, either way I think you need one. I have plans to make mine behind my plate and have a pin so I can pull the plate quickly at the track then reinstall it on the way home.

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post #12 of 14 Old 08-29-2008, 04:47 PM
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My guess is that because the fuel tank/cell is in the trunk area.Regardless it is in the rule books for the sanctioning bodies. Steve
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post #13 of 14 Old 08-29-2008, 11:21 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by redmax51 View Post
The kill switch on race cars is not really a "kill" switch,it is a battery disconnect switch.This allows emergency disconnection of the battery in the event of a crash to prevent the battery from shorting out and causing a fire and you only need it if you are sanction body(NHRA,IHRA,etc.) racing and it is in the trunk. Steve

Weird.

The tech guy at my local track has given me some crap in regards to the car not shutting off. I think he isn't going to let me run if I don't figure it out.

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post #14 of 14 Old 08-29-2008, 11:35 PM
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Mandatory on any car with a battery running 9.99 (*6.39) or quicker, or any car exceeding 135 mph (217.2 km/h) or on any car where the battery is relocated into the trunk area.

All batteries must be securely mounted and may not be relocated into the driver or passenger compartments. Rear firewall of .024-inch (.6 mm) steel or .032-inch (.8 mm) aluminum (including package tray) required when battery is re-located in trunk. In lieu of rear firewall, battery may be located in a sealed .024-inch (.6 mm) or .032-inch (.8 mm) aluminum, or FIA accepted poly box. If sealed box is used in lieu of rear firewall, box may not be used to secure battery, and must be vented outside of body. Strapping tape prohibited. A maximum of two automobile batteries, or 150 pounds (68 kg) combined maximum weight (unless otherwise specified in Class Requirements) is permitted. Metal battery hold-down straps mandatory. Hold-down bolts must be minimum 3/8-inch (9.53 mm) if battery is relocated from stock and other than stock hold-downs are used ("J" hooks prohibited or must have open end welded shut.).
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