Why is it so slow? - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 20 Old 08-02-2008, 09:37 PM Thread Starter
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Why is it so slow?

I have a 1963 ford falcon with a 5.0 efi it has a set of holley heads, holley intake, 1.6 ford racing roller rocker, tfs stage 1 cam, 3.80 gears, 24# injectors, a9l computer, aod, walbro 255, bbk 70mm tb, locker, traction bars. The car weighs 3000 pounds.

For some reason i dont think its running like it should. It doesnt feel like it takes off like it should. I live in kansas and both times i ran it was about 80 degrees out

With what i found out was 30* advanced bc i didnt have a timing light at the time and bfg drag radial 2's 215/45/17 it ran
60 - 2.157
330 - 5.919
1/8 - 9.024
mph - 78.39
1000 - 11.728
1/4 - 13.996
mph - 99.72

With 10* of timing and autolites 24's and 24 x 8 slicks. I planed on spraying but didnt bc i had a fuel line come off. It only ran
60-2.242
330- 6.188
1/8 - 9.371
mph - 76.36
1000- 12.147
1/4 - 14.479
mph - 97.11

Is it just me or is that slow for a hci set up? did i run slower bc of the slicks? Could my valves be adjusted wrong? I rly want to run mid 13's on all motor what do i need to do to get it there? and dont say a stick. I plan on getting a converter. what stall should i get for street/ strip? Is a 331 streetable? Or should i just go with a 306? I want to drive the car about 3 times a week. Any advice would be helpful.

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post #2 of 20 Old 08-03-2008, 12:28 PM
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Well, your 60' times are horrible. The fact that it still went 13's with that type of 60' time shows your making good power.

As for a 306 vs a 331....both are streetable if your putting the h.i.c combo on it you mentioned....

Get thos 60' times down...every 0.1 second in the 60' is worth 0.3 seconds in the quarter mile.

I wouldn't say you need a stick, but a good converter could make a world of difference!

Good luck....sounds like a cool car!!


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Stock Short Block, Stock T-5, Stock Computer, 93 Octane, A-Trim....driven like it was stolen
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post #3 of 20 Old 08-03-2008, 09:13 PM Thread Starter
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the only thing is i dont know why the 60' is so bad. What can i do to improve it
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post #4 of 20 Old 08-03-2008, 10:05 PM
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I would say the same about a converter
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post #5 of 20 Old 08-03-2008, 10:35 PM Thread Starter
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should i go with a lock up or a non-lock up? If i go with a non would i have to replace the input shaft and if so is it hard to do?
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post #6 of 20 Old 08-04-2008, 06:20 AM
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Get a 2500/3000 stall TC and a good shift kit and that will help put your car in its power band faster and keep it there when you shift gears...

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post #7 of 20 Old 08-04-2008, 01:53 PM
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A 2800-3000 stall torque converter will really wake the car up off the line. I had a very similar combo with the same cam and went to a 10.5" 3000 stall converter and the difference was night and day. One of the best mods I did to the car. Don't forget to buy a good transmission cooler when you install the new converter. The higher stall will generate much more heat than the stock one.

Also I did not see a MAF listed in your mods. If you are running the stock MAF sensor it is costing you HP. I would by an 80mm unit to replace the stock sensor.

Good luck with your project.

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FordStrokers 363 Dart (10.5:1), TEA TW 205 heads, Bullet HR cam, Jesel J2K shaft rockers, Vic Jr. by Wilson, Holley Terminator Stealth EFI, 1-3/4" headers to 3" pipes, dyno'd 572 FWHP & 520 Tq all motor (93 octane & 7200 RPM)
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Last edited by JClausen; 08-04-2008 at 01:59 PM.
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post #8 of 20 Old 08-04-2008, 02:58 PM Thread Starter
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i have a 80mm maf. Did you go with a lock up or non- lock up?
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post #9 of 20 Old 08-05-2008, 09:44 AM
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AOD = lock-up.

That mph still isn't that great through the 1/8 for aluminum heads and a halfway decent cam.

I would put it on a dyno and have someone tune it.

On my old 306, it went 9.0s @ 78/79 with a c4 and a TCI breakaway converter. Took my 66 falcon to the dyno, found out the timing was locking out because a rib on the MSD rotor wasn't machined correctly and hitting the pickup. Gained 20rwhp from that alone and switched to a edge racing converter and next time out went 8.60s @ 82/83.

Eventually the car went 8.0s @ 86 but thats after I ditched the ported D0OE heads and b-cam.

Is it a Holley Systemax? Those things (IMO) are too big for a 302/306. You would be much better off switching to a ported cobra/gt40 intake if you kept the displacement low.

Also, what was the PSI in the slicks? You want to run the most pressure you can but still have a decent 60ft.
I would imagine for something that makes that kind of power, it would be around 20psi

Last edited by streetfalcon; 08-05-2008 at 09:47 AM.
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post #10 of 20 Old 08-05-2008, 11:52 PM Thread Starter
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it is a systemax the only reason i have them is bc i pick the heads up fo $250 and the intake for $300. I ran 25 psi in the slicks

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post #11 of 20 Old 09-28-2008, 08:03 PM Thread Starter
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I got a b&m 3000 stall and still the best i could do is
60 2.057
330 5.777
1/8 8.942
mph 77.30
1000 11.682
1/4 13.985
mph 97.98
Why is it so slow? Could it be the tune? The car seems to be running fine.
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post #12 of 20 Old 09-28-2008, 09:34 PM
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Its slow because your cam is too small. What are you shifting at?

New times coming soon.....
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post #13 of 20 Old 09-28-2008, 10:37 PM
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Is the 60' due to tire spin or past prime . Try to borrow a set of 26x8 slicks and see if it improves .

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post #14 of 20 Old 09-28-2008, 10:44 PM Thread Starter
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shifting right at 6500 but it shifts out of 2nd faster like 6000 and at the traps right at 6300. Theres not a lot of tire spin and i do have a set of slicks but i think the motor doesnt make enough power it will just slow the motor down.
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post #15 of 20 Old 09-29-2008, 12:02 AM
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What kind of Tach are you using? Is there a tune on the A9L? They have a 6250 rpm limiter factory. Are you going thru the traps in 3rd? If so, your tach is way off. 97 mph in third is about 5100 rpm's. Is the transmission slipping?
Is the 80mm MAF calibrated to the injectors?
What type of exhaust are you using?
When your at the track, use the time to tune. Go up or down with ignition timing until the MPH starts falling off, set timing by highest MPH. DO the same with fuel pressure if adjustable. Only make one change at a time.
How do the plugs look?

Only difference between a chassis dyno and a dragstrip is the printout looks a little different.
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post #16 of 20 Old 09-29-2008, 03:15 PM
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What exactly do you have for rear suspension? Leafs? Slapper bars? Shock type? Etcetera....

'89 LX 'vert. 331 stroker, TKO600, my daily driver, [email protected] up here in SLC, Utah
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post #17 of 20 Old 09-29-2008, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
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I have new leafs with traction bars. The tach is a cheap one and im going though traps in 3rd but the reason the rpms is high is bc the 3.80 gears. The maf is for the 24# injectors. Im running true dual exhaust no cats with flowmaster 40. The timing was set right around 15 and i bump it up a little and didnt trap any faster
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post #18 of 20 Old 09-29-2008, 11:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5.0 trader View Post
I have new leafs with traction bars. The tach is a cheap one and im going though traps in 3rd but the reason the rpms is high is bc the 3.80 gears. The maf is for the 24# injectors. Im running true dual exhaust no cats with flowmaster 40. The timing was set right around 15 and i bump it up a little and didnt trap any faster
Okay, have you measured your pinion angle yet?
Do you have the slappers hitting the spring eye?
If not, how short of the spring eye do the bumpers hit?
Anyone watching your car launch off the line & if so, what do they see?

I have to agree with the others whom have suggested some dyno time as well....

'89 LX 'vert. 331 stroker, TKO600, my daily driver, [email protected] up here in SLC, Utah
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post #19 of 20 Old 09-30-2008, 09:26 AM Thread Starter
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no i havent measured the pinion angle. and yes the slappers are hitting the eye. When the car takes off it lifts the front suspension pretty bad but i put some eliminators on the front. Next time I go i plan on making them tighter so it doesnt lift so much. I dont think it is bc of tire spin it hooks good. I ran the codes and it came up that both banks are running lean i test the plug and it seemed to be fine so i put another o2 in i had sitting around and still ran lean. Should I go ahead and buy new o2? I plan on getting a wideband does that take place of an o2?
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post #20 of 20 Old 10-04-2008, 03:02 AM
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widebands do not replace a factory 02, you weld in a new bung and its a standalone type of deal...

ima stay out of the rest becaue i know dick about 5.0's lol

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