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post #1 of 24 Old 06-25-2008, 08:22 AM Thread Starter
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Noobie Drag Tire Question

I am looking for some advice on getting my first set of drag tires. A coworker told me that he has a hookup with Mickey Thompson and might be able to score me some steeply discounted tires. I have never bought drag tires before, but figure if I have the opportunity, why not?

Here are some details:
Weight about 2500 lbs
≈300 rwhp, about the same torque
Torque arm rear suspension
Can fit up to 26" diameter and 10.5" (275mm) wide
Will be running 15" diameter, 10" wide wheels
T5 manual transmission

Looking on the Mickey Thompson website, it looks like they have FOUR different tires that I can use
  1. Drag Slick
  2. Radial Drag Slick
  3. ET Street
  4. Radial ET Street
Having to change tires at the track is no big deal to me, but I am not an experienced drag racer, so a tire that is more forgiving of my lack of knowledge might be the best way to go.

Any guidance would be really appreciated. I am totally out of my element on this one.


Rich
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post #2 of 24 Old 06-25-2008, 12:05 PM
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26 x 9 slick if they make it. If not, 26 x 10.


88 coupe, 351 cleveland, unported 4V heads, buddy rawls custom solid roller, diamond domes, 6'' h-beam rods, stock 4bolt block/crank, holley strip dominator, 950HP holley, hoosier 28x10, 90/10s, UPR pro rear kit
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post #3 of 24 Old 06-25-2008, 12:55 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by All Cleveland View Post
26 x 9 slick if they make it. If not, 26 x 10.
Thanks. Why a 9" instead of a 10"?

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post #4 of 24 Old 06-26-2008, 11:39 AM Thread Starter
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Anyone else?

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post #5 of 24 Old 06-26-2008, 12:06 PM
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I would run a 26x10 Hoosier QTP tire, probably one of the best hooking DOT tire that is not a slick.

If you are looking for a DR for street/strip then Hoosier DR are better then MT DR in my opinion.

If you are stuck on MT then get the 26x10 slick

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post #6 of 24 Old 06-26-2008, 12:55 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Kurt. I am 'stuck' with MT if you could call someone doing me a favor stuck. Would you go with a radial or a bias ply? I know the physical difference, but what is the performance difference?

Thanks again.

Rich
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post #7 of 24 Old 06-26-2008, 01:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V8Mongrel View Post
Thanks Kurt. I am 'stuck' with MT if you could call someone doing me a favor stuck. Would you go with a radial or a bias ply? I know the physical difference, but what is the performance difference?

Thanks again.
With your hp a DR would probably help the most for a double duty tire

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post #8 of 24 Old 06-26-2008, 03:46 PM
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26x10 slick. You won't have to "figure" out the tire as much as you would a drag radial. Drag radials can be difficult to work with when you have a 5 speed.

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post #9 of 24 Old 06-26-2008, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Jeremy. What about radials is difficult?

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post #10 of 24 Old 06-26-2008, 09:14 PM
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They have a lot stiffer sidewall than slicks. You can't launch as hard with a 5 speed. It takes awhile to figure them out. Plus, some usually don't hook as well until they are bald. You will be happier with slicks.


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post #11 of 24 Old 06-27-2008, 12:13 AM
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Slicks

I used MT DR for about 12 runs on my 00 GT 5 spd and the best 60' I could get was 2.102. That was on 275/40/17's at 12 psi. Spun hard off the line at any RPM, so I switched to 28/11.5/16 Hoosier QTP at 15 psi and my first time out cut .3 off my 60' times and dropped .3 off my ET at the same MPH as my personal best on DR. All of my 60' times were within .1 of each other.They hooked very well, no spin at all. My ET was improving .1 each run, launching at 3000-3500 with stock suspension. My prior best MPH on the DR was up to 113, but my ET and 60' were all over the place. My QTP just got better each run my first time out. Went 12.9, 12.8, 12.7, 12.6. I would definitely say run the slicks with the 5 speed, they are much more consistent. I would think the 26" slicks any width would be good for your power level. Even though I went with the Hoosiers, MT Slicks should treat you well. Let me know if you have any other questions, I'd be happy to share what has worked for me.

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post #12 of 24 Old 06-27-2008, 12:46 AM
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I love my ET streets! On track days, I bolt them up and drive there on them.(70 miles) Then cut 1.74 short times with only a 4500rpm launch. Going for 1.65's this Friday. 26x10.5x16

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Running street tires at the track is like wiping your ass with a turd.
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post #13 of 24 Old 06-27-2008, 09:33 AM Thread Starter
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Cory, are you running ET Streets or the radial version? How big a difference is there?

carpdogg, great info, thanks a lot. How are slicks on the top end? I hear a lot about how they aren't really stable, but I have no idea what that really means!

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post #14 of 24 Old 06-27-2008, 04:48 PM
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Stability

I read on here a bunch too that slicks felt squirrelly and would sway as you got toward the end of your run, but that seemed to come more from the guys that were running 120+ mph. I got mine anyways and was expecting to experience some of that on my runs, but I didn't notice it at all. I am also running with my stock anti roll bars on, so I don't know if that helps with that or not. I could see how at higher speeds they would sway a little towards the end of the track though. Until you get up to those speeds I don't think you will feel that at all. I also didn't lose any mph between my best ET on DR vs the slicks. When I say slicks, mine are DOT approved, so they are similar to the MT ET Street. They ran the same mph. Hope this helps! That's awesome that you have someone to hook you up like that! Good luck with your selection!

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post #15 of 24 Old 06-28-2008, 10:07 AM
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Slicks will sometimes cause the rear of the car to sway. It will seem as though it is moving side to side. With my new M/T 28x9 slicks, I didn't notice much sway at all. I try to run the pressure as high as possible in order to keep the tire as stiff as possible and still hook well. The 26x10's will have a short enough sidewall that you may not notice much sway.

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post #16 of 24 Old 06-28-2008, 11:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V8Mongrel View Post
Cory, are you running ET Streets or the radial version? How big a difference is there?
IMO. There is still only one ET Street on the market.
I guess when the ET STreet drag radials came out, alot of people started screwing up the names of the two tires...

An ET Street is an ET Sreet IMO. An ET drag radial is just that.. a soft radial.

BTW.... There is a HUGE difference in the two. With a manual tranny, the ET Street would be the better choice.

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post #17 of 24 Old 06-29-2008, 08:23 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swinerton View Post
IMO. There is still only one ET Street on the market.
I guess when the ET STreet drag radials came out, alot of people started screwing up the names of the two tires...

An ET Street is an ET Sreet IMO. An ET drag radial is just that.. a soft radial.

BTW.... There is a HUGE difference in the two. With a manual tranny, the ET Street would be the better choice.
Thanks again Cory. Can you tell me more about the differences please. Why would I be so much better off with an ET Street versus the radial.

Thanks.

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post #18 of 24 Old 07-10-2008, 10:56 AM
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There seems to be some confusion on the Mickey Thompson lines.

An ET street is a bias ply “DOT” approved tire that is really only good for track duty. Because it’s bias ply, it can get squirrely on the big end of the track if you use radial front tires. This is because they have different characteristics and sway differently at speed. Obviously the faster you go, the more noticeable it will be.

The ET street radial is the “DOT” approved drag radial tire that is suitable for the road and track. It’s still not advisable to run them in the rain, but they will last ~5k miles if you drive them on the street.

The bias ply ET street will be better for a manual shifted car because it's sidewall will wrinkle more and absorb the shock seen with high rpm clutch dumps. They also tend to be easier on all of the drivetrain for this very reason.

In the end, if you want a tire for track duty only….the ET street is probably your best bet. You can drive it to and from the track…but I wouldn’t do much more than that. The ET street radial will be the better all around tire. It won’t allow you to do the high rpm clutch dumps the way the ET streets will…and when you hook hard, will be much harder on the drivetrain.

From my understanding, if you want the best of both worlds….go with the 15” et street radials with the 26inch dia. The sidewalls will give you the most wrinkle while still giving you the stability of a radial tire.

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post #19 of 24 Old 07-10-2008, 11:31 AM Thread Starter
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Great advice, thanks Millhouse. I am thinking that the radials may be my best bet since I am going to try the Maxton mile (1 mile land speed race) as well, and the idea of top end sway at those speeds is a bit unnerving.

Plus, I am really a rookie at this and so I don't think I am going to be held back the tires.

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post #20 of 24 Old 07-10-2008, 06:56 PM
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carpdog- do u run tubes?; heard u can run tubeless on some tube-type tires (M/T ET streets) as long as u don't run the pressure too low (so the tires don't spin on the rims) & u must check pressure frequently due 2 increased air seepage.

also,u went from 26" diameter m/t drag radials to 28" diameter hoosiers; do u think the diameter change contributed to the performance difference? also, same question going from rim diameter 17 to 16. (more wrinkle, better traction with a smaller diameter rim?)

Last edited by diane626; 07-10-2008 at 07:10 PM. Reason: add info
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post #21 of 24 Old 07-10-2008, 10:51 PM
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Quote:
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Thanks. Why a 9" instead of a 10"?
Because a 9'' tire on a 10'' rim will put more rubber on the ground than a 10'' tire on a 10'' rim. 10'' tires on a 10'' rim do not use all the rubber on the tread. There is about an inch or so on each side that pretty much doesn't touch the ground. Put a 10'' tire on a 12'' rim and it's a whole different story.

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post #22 of 24 Old 07-11-2008, 08:43 AM
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I think you will be happier with the drag radial. The sway you get on the top end of the track can be unnerving the first couple of times you experince it.


A drag radial will hook on a prepped surface just as well as a DOT slick (al la ET street). Though you have to adjust your car for it. In my experince, a slick is more forgiving to improper suspension setup. with a drag radial you have to have the front end pretty loose, and the back end pretty tight. You have to yank the front end up in the air, and keep it there.

I have run countless 1.40- 60's on a 275/60 radial in my coupe (auto, leaving on the trans brake). and got my old '03 cobra in to the high 1.4's on the same tire (6 spd).

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post #23 of 24 Old 07-11-2008, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diane626 View Post
carpdog- do u run tubes?; heard u can run tubeless on some tube-type tires (M/T ET streets) as long as u don't run the pressure too low (so the tires don't spin on the rims) & u must check pressure frequently due 2 increased air seepage.

also,u went from 26" diameter m/t drag radials to 28" diameter hoosiers; do u think the diameter change contributed to the performance difference? also, same question going from rim diameter 17 to 16. (more wrinkle, better traction with a smaller diameter rim?)

I ran my Hoosiers tubeless and they held air just fine, didn't have to air it up at the track at all. In fact, 1 month later they are still holding air at the same psi I ran them at the tradck. I ran them around 15 psi if I remember right. I got 5 runs in between 9pm and 1 am and didn't lose any air. As far as the diameter change goes, I went to a 28" on a 16" rim to get more sidewall wrinkle to absorb the shock. They definitely were an improvement over my DR on 17's, which is to be expected. I think I definitely benefited from the rim diameter and tire size change. I had the stock 16" wheels that came with the car, so that is why I really went to a 16" instead of a 15". I am sure a 26" tall drag radial on 15" rims would launch better than my 26" on my 17's. I like the consistency of the slicks, my 60' were all within .1 of each other and stuck every time as opposed to as much as .4 with the DR and spinning. I ran the same speed too, which was pretty key as well. Like FNRCKT says though, it does hide/make up for bad/stock suspension. Now I need to work on that suspension and maybe go to 3:73 gears and see what happens. Based on what my current HP level is now, I should be capable of high 11's, at least that is my goal. Mind you, this is my daily driver with a/c, full interior, etc. Hope that answers your questions, if not, pm me or repost and I will get back to you with my experience.

2000 Mustang GT, 2.1 KB @9 PSI, IC, 36lb inj, 90mm Meter, KB Big Tube CAI, 75 mm TB, KB BAS & BAP, MMR 600 shortblock Sniper SF Tune, Steeda Triax, SLP line lock, Ram Powergrip HD 11" Clutch 12.688 @ 110 LVMS 6/13/08 on stock suspension & stock shortblock

Last edited by carpdogg; 07-11-2008 at 01:25 PM.
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post #24 of 24 Old 07-11-2008, 01:21 PM
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I'd also suggest the 26x10 slick as they are more forgiving on a ill prepped starting line, which happens on a lot of test-n-tune nights. I, like a bunch of guys on here have run both and the slicks would porbably work a little better on your combo than a DR but if you're going to drive around on them and run other events the DR is the obvious choice. Slicks can also be a little easier on the driveline (t5).................good luck no matter what you get and have some fun

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