pros or cons to going with an alluminum drive shaft? - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 52 Old 06-22-2008, 03:03 PM Thread Starter
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pros or cons to going with an alluminum drive shaft?

Thinking of going with one on my daily driven 88 hatch but was wondering what the pros are to these and if any the cons.. I know the weight saves is one but exactly how much weight savings are we talking about?

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post #2 of 52 Old 06-22-2008, 05:29 PM
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I twisted my 87 gt's stock steel driveshaft with the only mods being drag radials, 4.10's and exhaust. The car was only 13.70's.


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post #3 of 52 Old 06-22-2008, 05:32 PM
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I don't see any cons to it.


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post #4 of 52 Old 06-22-2008, 05:38 PM
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I don't see any cons to it.
... But, are the advantages worth the cost, and when do those advantages become tangible?

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post #5 of 52 Old 06-22-2008, 10:13 PM
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i dont know how to quite word this, but when you ask when do those advantages become tangible i think to myself what does it matter. you have the money to upgrade a part, so just do it, and eventually it will be worth it. i think its worth it now. for the weight savings alone. and when you start upgrading HP then you dont have to think in the back of your mind. dang is my driveshaft gunna take a poo on me tonight at the track?

btw there isnt much of a cost, they arent tooo expensive imo.
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post #6 of 52 Old 06-22-2008, 11:09 PM
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I built an 88 coupe with 4.10's and after installing an aluminum shaft from an aerostar the commute was nicer due to less vibration @65mph.Worth it?Hell yes.

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post #7 of 52 Old 06-23-2008, 08:37 AM
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i dont know how to quite word this, but when you ask when do those advantages become tangible i think to myself what does it matter. you have the money to upgrade a part, so just do it, and eventually it will be worth it. i think its worth it now. for the weight savings alone. and when you start upgrading HP then you dont have to think in the back of your mind. dang is my driveshaft gunna take a poo on me tonight at the track?

btw there isnt much of a cost, they arent tooo expensive imo.
I'll agree with one small change: "IF you have the money to upgrade a part..."

If you have all the money in the world, throw everything you can at it (so long as things match up, and meet your intended purpose). But those who have to pick and choose where to spend project money want to be sure the cash is being well spent. For instance, $270 (I know, less if you find one used) for an AL drive shaft would be better put toward a gear change if starting with a stock car. The $/gain ratio is largely better.

Somebody asked why I didn't get a tubular K when I did my suspension. My reply was "I had to stop spending money someplace." For me, money for a tubular K was better spent in upgrading to Cobra brakes. Superior braking > weight savings.

And to the OP, HERE'S A THREAD that addresses a lot of points. Hope it helps.

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post #8 of 52 Old 06-23-2008, 11:02 AM
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I have found that there is more drivetrain noise with an aluminum driveshaft. Not a lot, but definitelt noticeably more.

On a previous to 05 car, you save 8-10 pounds with an AL driveshaft.

Seems like I buy one for every project car, so hopefully it's worth something

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post #9 of 52 Old 06-23-2008, 11:45 AM
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You know, I just noticed this is in the drag racing section. For this purpose, I guess the overall weight reduction would be beneficial, if you're looking for every opportunity. (There's a thread someplace on here where someone detailed a per-item weight-reduction plan.) For general daily use, though, I'd still wonder if it's worth the $$$.

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post #10 of 52 Old 06-23-2008, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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There's a thread someplace on here where someone detailed a per-item weight-reduction plan.
I'd be interested in that thread if you could find it

and I was looking at the aluminum shaft to help remove as much rotational mass as possible so it sounds like pretty much anybody how has spent the money on them are happy with them.

Thanks allot for the comments fellas

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post #11 of 52 Old 06-23-2008, 02:11 PM
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I'd be interested in that thread if you could find it

and I was looking at the aluminum shaft to help remove as much rotational mass as possible so it sounds like pretty much anybody how has spent the money on them are happy with them.

Thanks allot for the comments fellas
Official Weight Removal Thread

As for rotational mass reduction, while the AL shaft is lighter, if it is also larger in diameter (which I believe it is) the effect is minimized.

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post #12 of 52 Old 06-23-2008, 02:39 PM
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The aluminum driveshaft is larger in diameter than the stocker.

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post #13 of 52 Old 06-23-2008, 03:00 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TrickVert View Post
As for rotational mass reduction, while the AL shaft is lighter, if it is also larger in diameter (which I believe it is) the effect is minimized
Wow never thought about that.. good point

hmmm according to that thread (thanks allot by the way for posting that thread) there's only a 4lb difference

Steel driveshaft : 22 lbs
Aluminum driveshaft : 16 lbs


So it looks like that's an upgrade for when the stock shaft takes a dump
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post #14 of 52 Old 06-23-2008, 03:25 PM
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Wow never thought about that.. good point

hmmm according to that thread (thanks allot by the way for posting that thread) there's only a 4lb difference

Steel driveshaft : 22 lbs
Aluminum driveshaft : 16 lbs

So it looks like that's an upgrade for when the stock shaft takes a dump
Unless you're making decent power and running slicks, in which case you'd like to have it in place before your stock shaft twists like a pretzel and rips up the underside of the car. (I don't know if this could really happen, but is sounds like a good way to justify it!)

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post #15 of 52 Old 06-23-2008, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
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yea haha.. I don't think my 12 second terror is going to twist up the stock shaft though so that mod is out now until my daily driver does make enough power to do so

how come you don't see any carbon fiber shafts out there? for my gmc syclone there are cf upgrade shafts that weigh 4lbs and are stronger then the stock stuff plus if it does go it turns to dust and doesn't take out everything else around it
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They're available. Why doesn't anybody talk about them? $900 That's why.

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post #17 of 52 Old 06-23-2008, 05:35 PM
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4lbs? I'm pretty sure its a bigger difference. Even then thats still less rotating mass.

Cons. You have to pay 250$ for it.

Pro's. Everything.

A friend of mine on his mach replaced the clutch, put in a light weight flywheel, FMS driveshaft and picked up 2mph and 2 tenths in the 1/4. Its not a massive difference but when you're loosing by 1 car length you'd sell your soul for some sort of an advantage.

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I twisted my 87 gt's stock steel driveshaft with the only mods being drag radials, 4.10's and exhaust. The car was only 13.70's.

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There are alot of benifits to an alum D/S. If it is on your "to get" list anyway, than just go ahead and get it! Even if it is not absolutely needed now, it will still serve its purpose. Well worth it IMO!!

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post #20 of 52 Old 06-23-2008, 07:43 PM
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22 -16 = 6 in my world
THANKS, i thought i was the only one who noticed that!

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post #22 of 52 Old 06-23-2008, 08:42 PM
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Why are you calling bs. Because its never happen to you? I was just making a point to an experience I had. But I guess I'm a liar now for saying that.

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post #23 of 52 Old 06-23-2008, 09:02 PM
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Official Weight Removal Thread

As for rotational mass reduction, while the AL shaft is lighter, if it is also larger in diameter (which I believe it is) the effect is minimized.

Andy
There's a posting on here somewhere by a Ford drivetrain engineer and he described weight reduction was just one advantage among others that alum had over the stocker. I'm too lazy to do the searching; maybe someone will have it bookmarked. Pretty convincing argument as I recall
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post #24 of 52 Old 06-23-2008, 09:26 PM
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The weight difference can help or hurt you. In a car making GOOD power, it will help because it is less of a rotational weight. In a lower powered car, the heavier weight of a steel driveshaft can help hit the tires harder. Another advantage of the aluminum is that it absorbs a lot of drivetrain vibration.
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post #25 of 52 Old 06-24-2008, 02:39 AM
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The weight difference can help or hurt you. In a car making GOOD power, it will help because it is less of a rotational weight. In a lower powered car, the heavier weight of a steel driveshaft can help hit the tires harder. Another advantage of the aluminum is that it absorbs a lot of drivetrain vibration.

That is more the case of a flywheel that will be spinnig BEFORE the car is moving.

Gears should be one of if not the first upgrade. Save the money for the drive shaft for when you are running slicks/drag radials and making more power. There are lots of things i would do befor a d/s when on a budget.

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post #26 of 52 Old 06-24-2008, 11:20 AM
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There are alot of benifits to an alum D/S. If it is on your "to get" list anyway, than just go ahead and get it! Even if it is not absolutely needed now, it will still serve its purpose. Well worth it IMO!!
I think it's a total waste of money.

Pro's - changes the critical speed of the driveline *possibly* reducing vibrations when using numerically higher gear ratios.

Con's- $$$, It's weaker.

Misconceptions- You are gaining because it's lighter, it's stronger.


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post #27 of 52 Old 06-24-2008, 08:38 PM
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Why are you calling bs. Because its never happen to you? I was just making a point to an experience I had. But I guess I'm a liar now for saying that.
maybe you thought it was the shaft ..maybe the u-joint? well maybe i will recall the flag..maybe the welds where rusted out..

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I think it's a total waste of money.

Pro's - changes the critical speed of the driveline *possibly* reducing vibrations when using numerically higher gear ratios.

Con's- $$$, It's weaker.

Misconceptions- You are gaining because it's lighter, it's stronger.


Troy
Weaker than what? A stock d/s, lol.

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I think it's a total waste of money.

It's weaker.

Misconceptions- You are gaining because it's lighter, it's stronger.


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post #30 of 52 Old 06-24-2008, 09:47 PM
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maybe you thought it was the shaft ..maybe the u-joint? well maybe i will recall the flag..maybe the welds where rusted out..
It wasn't twisted like an oil pump shaft twists but it definitly twisted about 90* in the back of the driveshaft. I had to drive the car home from the track like that, it vibrated so bad that the seal between the yoke and the tailshaft popped off.

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post #31 of 52 Old 06-24-2008, 10:14 PM
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It wasn't twisted like an oil pump shaft twists but it definitly twisted about 90* in the back of the driveshaft. I had to drive the car home from the track like that, it vibrated so bad that the seal between the yoke and the tailshaft popped off.
You, my friend, must have had a bad one. No way a normal shaft should twist with that light a load.

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post #32 of 52 Old 06-25-2008, 07:18 PM
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replacing the stocker 89 driveshaft cured most if not all of the driveline vibration i had in the car above 60mph. now its smooth up to 130mph. that itself is worth the $230 i spent on the aluminum ds.

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post #33 of 52 Old 06-26-2008, 09:42 AM Thread Starter
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22 -16 = 6 in my world
aww god damn it

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post #34 of 52 Old 06-26-2008, 01:07 PM
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You, my friend, must have had a bad one. No way a normal shaft should twist with that light a load.

Andy
happened to a friend of mine also , mid to high 13 sec car on drag radials .

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