Repair or Replace Aluminum Driveshaft? - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 31 Old 07-31-2006, 11:03 AM Thread Starter
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Unhappy Repair or Replace Aluminum Driveshaft?

I went to the track Friday night for the first time since I put Eibach drag springs and Strange adjustable struts and shocks in the car. After my 4th run the track officials pointed out that I was leaving aluminum chips on the track at the starting line. Not only was the emergency brake cable bracket rubbing on the aluminum driveshaft but the shaft was also rubbing on a spot weld on the the top of the tranny tunnel.



By my measurements the driveshaft was 90mm in diameter and the diameter at the deepest part of the score is 87.3mm. What is the wall thickness of the driveshaft? Could I have this repaired by welding and rebalancing or should I look for a new driveshaft?

I know I have other problems that need to be addressed before I put the aluminum driveshaft back in.

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post #2 of 31 Old 07-31-2006, 11:31 AM
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U can do either..My guess is that the cost will/B close either way u go!!!

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post #3 of 31 Old 07-31-2006, 11:46 AM
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they ford alum shafts are not that thick....

I would guess it might be best to replace it
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post #4 of 31 Old 07-31-2006, 02:00 PM
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with these things running over 250.00$ new I'm pretty sure you can find a shop to repair it for way under that. Maybe if they were still 150.00, a replacement might be the way to go. I'd see what shops would charge and go from there.

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post #5 of 31 Old 07-31-2006, 02:09 PM
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The question is, will this negatively affect the structural ingerity of the piece? If the answer is yes, replace it. If it's no, then leave it. Hard to say either way. If it was repaired via welding, I know I wouldn't want that much heat introduced into my driveshaft. Post this up in the Lounge.

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post #6 of 31 Old 08-01-2006, 12:11 PM
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If the person doing the welding knows what they're doing, there won't be any question of the integrity of the driveshaft. In most cases, if welded properly, the new weld will become stronger than the metal/alloy itself.

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post #7 of 31 Old 08-01-2006, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
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As an update I will probably be getting a new driveshaft. I talked with a local driveshaft repair shop (shaftmasters.com) and David said if it's .125 wall thickness it can be re-tubed. As it turns out the shaft has .114 wall tubing so it's junk. They apparently don't want to weld it because of the possibility of heat warpage. In the meantime, I'll use the old steel shaft.
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post #8 of 31 Old 08-01-2006, 05:11 PM
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Welcome to the world of destroyed-by-the-parking-brake-bracket driveshafts!

It happens just about every time we lower these things.

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post #9 of 31 Old 08-01-2006, 05:26 PM
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whose going to step up to the plate and design a different mounting system to rectify this situation?

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There are two problems with the system. 1st is there are more parasites than hosts.... second, the parasites are allowed to vote.

Last edited by 99FiveOh; 08-01-2006 at 11:57 PM.
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post #10 of 31 Old 08-01-2006, 05:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gustang818
They apparently don't want to weld it because of the possibility of heat warpage.
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post #11 of 31 Old 08-02-2006, 04:05 PM Thread Starter
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[QUOTE=I X L]Welcome to the world of destroyed-by-the-parking-brake-bracket driveshafts! [QUOTE]

And my ticket in only cost me $235!!!!

I'm having Shaftmasters build me a new aluminum driveshaft. They'll use my u-joints and yokes but the shaft wall thickness will be .125 aluminum material. I dropped it off at lunch today and the new one will be ready tomorrow at noon.
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post #12 of 31 Old 08-02-2006, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Mustang
whose going to step up to the plate and design a different mounting system to rectify this situation?
Anyone have any good pics of the bracket with and without the DS installed? That would be a good place to start. Hell I probably need to check mine

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post #13 of 31 Old 08-02-2006, 06:04 PM
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[QUOTE=gustang818][QUOTE=I X L]Welcome to the world of destroyed-by-the-parking-brake-bracket driveshafts!
Quote:

And my ticket in only cost me $235!!!!

I'm having Shaftmasters build me a new aluminum driveshaft. They'll use my u-joints and yokes but the shaft wall thickness will be .125 aluminum material. I dropped it off at lunch today and the new one will be ready tomorrow at noon.
I'm not sure I'd name my business "Shaftmasters". Maybe Mastershaft or something...

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post #14 of 31 Old 08-03-2006, 04:59 AM
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****! I just installed my aluminum DS last weekend! I'll be lowering the car probably next week. Am I gonna have issues with the parking brake?

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post #15 of 31 Old 08-03-2006, 08:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STREETFIGHTER50
****! I just installed my aluminum DS last weekend! I'll be lowering the car probably next week. Am I gonna have issues with the parking brake?
Probably so. Take some good pics while you're under there of the bracket setup if you think about it.

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Not trying to be an idiot or anything, but I can't help but wonder if an aluminum DS actually does that much for the car to worry about it getting chewed up or buying it for the high price in the first place.

I know it's lighter, but how much lighter is it? Last I checked my stock DS isn't really that heavy.

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post #17 of 31 Old 08-03-2006, 10:30 AM
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It's not just about it being lighter, it comes with new u-joints. We all know the oem ones fail quite a bit, sometimes pretty quickly. Mine were going back in 02 when I got the driveshaft.

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post #18 of 31 Old 08-03-2006, 10:40 AM Thread Starter
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I haven't weighed them but just taking the aluminum shaft out and putting the steel shaft in, the aluminum feels significantly lighter. There are also benefits to the rear end and tranny from the reduction in rotating mass. In fourth and fifth gear your driveshaft is spinning as fast as or faster than your engine. Driveshaft mass when multiplied by 4000 rpm or so equates to significant reactive centrifugal force. Since the aluminum shaft is lighter there is less of that.
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post #19 of 31 Old 08-03-2006, 10:51 AM
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Understood. However, if the shaft is properly balanced, there shouldn't be any reactive centrif. force to deal with. I've never had an aluminum shaft in my 'Stangs so I don't have a reference point. But I've never had any prob. with the stock units.

Why do they make the alum. D/S so much bigger than the stock steel piece? Is there any evidence of a performnace gain from the alum. D/S? Just curious, I'm in no way ridiculing the use of these things in the least.

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post #20 of 31 Old 08-03-2006, 01:36 PM Thread Starter
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It's not a matter of balance. It's a matter of mass. If you've got a rock on the end of a rope and are spinning it in a circle over your head, when you let go of the rope the rock flies off in a straight line. The mass that makes up the driveshaft also wants to fly off in a constantly changing straight line--thus the reactive centrifugal force. I don't know that there are necessarily any performance gains from a lightweight aluminum driveshaft but it puts less stress on the other driveline parts. I would assume the larger tube is stronger than a smaller diameter tube.

Steel driveshafts work perfectly fine--in the 30+ years I've owned cars and trucks, this is the first one I've had with an aluminum driveshaft. Steel driveshafts just may not be the optimum part for the application. I want my car to go faster but I also want parts (especially expensive parts and difficult to service parts) to last as long as possible before replacement.
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post #21 of 31 Old 08-06-2006, 11:17 AM Thread Starter
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Parking brake bracket modification

I got my new driveshaft Friday. They did a nice job on it.



Before I install it, I decided to fix the parking brake bracket problem. This first picture is of the parking brake bracket with the driveshaft installed. There is about 1.5" of clearance between the driveshaft and the bracket.



This picture is of the bracket with the driveshaft removed. You can see that it is centered in the tunnel. This allows the high point of the driveshaft to come into contact with the low point of the bracket. There is some aluminum from my old driveshaft stuck on it where contact was made.



At this point I removed the bracket. I used a cold chisel and a pry bar. An alternative would be to drill out the 4 spot welds that hold the bracket on. The bracket is located just under the back end of the console by its mounting bracket.



I then cut the bracket in half longitudinally and radiused the inner edge for additional clearance. I then drilled 2 holes per side for mounting bolts. I thought about welding it in but decided if I need to make adjusments, bolts would work better.



The transmission/driveshaft tunnel gets taller and wider as you move toward the front of the car. In my car at least, there seems to be less room between the driveshaft and the passenger side of the tunnel. I took what had been the driver's side of the bracket and flipped it and mounted it in the top and side corner slightly more toward the front of the car than originally installed. You will need to remove the console and the carpet from the area where the bolts come through. I cut a 1" or so slit in the carpet and got the hardware in that way. You won't see it because it's under the console.



In determining this location I took into account the length of the parking brake cables and driveshaft range of motion. It appears that now the driveshaft will hit on the floor pan just forward of the rear seat before it will hit the bracket. This morning in an off-road place I can do such things, I pulled a couple of 5k holeshots to see if the bracket will contact my steel driveshaft. It does not appear to have made any contact. I'll check further when I get home.

When I had the steel shaft next to the new aluminum one, there did not appear to be any difference in diameter. I don't know if the same is true for the FRPP driveshaft since I no longer have it.

The other interesting thing I learned was that the yoke from a Ranger M5OD fits into the T5 transmission
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post #22 of 31 Old 08-06-2006, 08:29 PM
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Looking at the picture of your new d/s, I can see it's alot smaller than the FRPP shaft which is nice because you have that much more clearance. Not that it matters now that you modified the bracket!

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post #23 of 31 Old 08-08-2006, 10:05 AM Thread Starter
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Follow-up

As a follow-up, I got underneath the car on Sunday and the driveshaft does not hit the parking brake bracket anymore. As I suspected, it contacts the floor pan at a point located below the forward of the rear seat. I guess an adjustable pinion snubber is in order.

I also measured the steel driveshaft and came up with just under 89mm. The new aluminum driveshaft is 89mm and the FRPP I measured at 90mm. I'm going to say all three have the same outside diameter.
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post #24 of 31 Old 08-08-2006, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gustang818
I also measured the steel driveshaft and came up with just under 89mm. The new aluminum driveshaft is 89mm and the FRPP I measured at 90mm. I'm going to say all three have the same outside diameter.
Using calipers? I've never heard of the oem shaft hitting the p-brake, but the aluminum one always does. I'd hope ford would leave more than 1mm clearance between the driveshaft and bracket. Nice pics though.

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post #25 of 31 Old 08-08-2006, 10:37 AM
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Nice job! Im in the same boat, I may have to buy a new driveshaft as well...mine is scored up too.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by texsn95
Using calipers? I've never heard of the oem shaft hitting the p-brake, but the aluminum one always does. I'd hope ford would leave more than 1mm clearance between the driveshaft and bracket. Nice pics though.
I have a buddy who has a 100% stock 94 GT vert and his stock DS hits the bracket..This problem only seems to happen with SN95 cars..

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It happens with the stockers too. Mine was due to old sagging springs. That is, until I bolted the bracket up tight with the trans tunnel. My DS has light scoring from the bracket (before repair) but nothing like yours did!

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post #28 of 31 Old 08-08-2006, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FastGT94
It happens with the stockers too.
Oh that's the first I've heard about it, I guess since it doesn't leave a big gouge usually like with the aluminum one it's not such a big deal.

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post #29 of 31 Old 08-08-2006, 02:31 PM
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exactly, Actually grinds away the bracket and not the DS. The only reason I knew what it was, was that I heard the grinding, then hopped under to check and saw lines around the DS right in that area.

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post #30 of 31 Old 08-08-2006, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texsn95
Using calipers? I've never heard of the oem shaft hitting the p-brake, but the aluminum one always does. I'd hope ford would leave more than 1mm clearance between the driveshaft and bracket. Nice pics though.
Yes, I used calipers to measure the o.d. of the driveshafts. The variation can probably be chalked up to operator error.

I think like Fastgt94 said, the steel driveshaft is harder material than the bracket. If you look carefully on the left side of the picture I posted above showing the steel driveshaft (it's not the oem shaft from my car-it's out of a '95) you can see a faint rusted over score line from the bracket. I never had problems with the bracket hitting the driveshaft until I put in the Eibach drag springs. The rear of the car seemed lower after that. I measured and there was about 1-1/2" of clearance between the driveshaft and the bracket as originally mounted with the Eibach springs.
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