water temp running hot? - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 20 Old 06-09-2005, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
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water temp running hot?

What water temp is too hot. I ran the car the other day in 90 degree heat and turned the A/C on. The water temp climbed to 215 so I turned the a/c off and the car temp fell to 211. The car usually runs between 200-208 degrees. At what point do I have to worry about over heating?


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post #2 of 20 Old 06-09-2005, 11:29 AM
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run ac on max, that will keep your car nice and cool being that the max setting runs your coolant fan at high speed all the time. When was the last flush and fill, it should be done yearly.


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post #3 of 20 Old 06-09-2005, 11:55 AM
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Mine runs between 195 & 210 (Autometer Electric Gauge). In traffic in high temps it will climb just a bit higher.

True turning AC on will kick the fan to high, but, when the temp gets high enough that will happen anyway. If the cooling system is not up to snuff, this can run you into overheating quicker.

Our radiators (stock) are not the greatest out there, I just replaced mine at 100k with a radiator from 1-800-Radiator (Melodine, I think) runs cool enough now. Radiator was $109.

That brings up another question, what temps does the fan come on low and when high?

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post #4 of 20 Old 06-09-2005, 12:43 PM
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heh, 210-215 is stock, and fine. anything over 225 on a car with iron heads is starting to get hott.. and around 210 for aluminum heads IMO

i like keeping my car running between 180-195* tops tho

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post #5 of 20 Old 06-09-2005, 01:10 PM
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You don't have an underdrive pully on your water pump do you? Cause if that water isn't cycling through your engine and radiator fast enough it'll get pretty damn hot!
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post #6 of 20 Old 06-09-2005, 03:47 PM Thread Starter
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No I have the stock underdrive pulleys.
I have 1000 miles on the new HCI, So I just changed the fluids. I just want to know at what temp I should either turn the a/c off or even pull over and let it cool down. I'm just worried about if I get stuck in a traffic jam and overheating.

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post #7 of 20 Old 06-09-2005, 05:42 PM
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Get a new radiator. Can never hurt.

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post #8 of 20 Old 06-09-2005, 05:45 PM
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I was about to say, 215 while running AC in hot ambient temperature sounds like a deal!

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Last edited by DarkMesa8; 06-09-2005 at 05:47 PM.
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post #9 of 20 Old 06-09-2005, 05:57 PM
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Radiators aren't a problem in our cars (Max A/C with 351 and Vortech and I have my fan programmed for 200 hi speed and my car sits around 205 in traffic) Get a chip or make a switch for the fan. If you're worried about it, that is. Stock car with iron heads, I wouldn't worry about it.

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post #10 of 20 Old 06-09-2005, 09:06 PM
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He's got some money parts on the motor.


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post #11 of 20 Old 06-10-2005, 03:35 AM
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Does the car cool down once you get on the highway? If not, the radiator is suspect IMHO. It simply might not be able to reject enough heat.

Good luck.
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post #12 of 20 Old 06-10-2005, 09:48 AM Thread Starter
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ON the highway it did'nt cool much if any. I was only on the highway for around 5 minutes, but when I killed the air it went down. It was around 93 ambient outside.

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post #13 of 20 Old 06-10-2005, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94 Cobra R
Radiators aren't a problem in our cars
I don't quite agree with this, if it is the stock 11 year old radiator you probably want to replace it being that it probably is just about rusted through (especially being that most do not change their fluid and that is 11 years old as well). Otherwise a stock replacement radiator is fine. Life expectancy of a radiator is 5 years anything more than that is borrowed time.

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post #14 of 20 Old 06-10-2005, 10:08 PM
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I also dont agree that the radiators are fine. Sure when they were new and the car was new, I am sure they passed desert-proving testing. But these cars are not new anymore and radiators scale up. The coil is only one inch thick which does not leave much fudge factor, IMHO. There is a big difference in cooling someone's car in 70 or even 80*F ambient temps and 90-110*F ambient temps (where temps coming off the asphalt [and into the radiator] are a good deal hotter than that). The lower the temp delta from ambient to operating temp, the harder it is for the coil to reject a given amount of heat.
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post #15 of 20 Old 06-11-2005, 11:29 AM
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I didn't mean the radiators are fine if it's old and cruddy, I meant the radiators are fine and that upgrading to a Fluidyne isn't necessary like so many people think

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post #16 of 20 Old 06-11-2005, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94 Cobra R
I didn't mean the radiators are fine if it's old and cruddy, I meant the radiators are fine and that upgrading to a Fluidyne isn't necessary like so many people think
I can respect that. With many cars, they have been modded or deteriorated to a point that a larger radiator is a cheaper solution than rebuilding the motor and renewing everything in the cooling system. You are correct though (why I mentioned on this or another recent cooling thread that the cars all obviously passed desert-proving testing when new, but they are not new anymore). :cheers:
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post #17 of 20 Old 06-11-2005, 10:03 PM
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Stock fan settings in your EEC turn the low speed fan on at 208* and don't turn the high speed fan on until 228*!! Thats how ford helped these pushrod motors pass emmissions... Plus the stock T-stat is 195*

Get a chip or programmer of some sort and turn your fans on at 185* or so and get a 160-180* T-stat and you'll be fine. Theres always the manual fan switch as well which works pretty good...

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post #18 of 20 Old 06-12-2005, 01:20 PM
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according to the ford service manual normal operating temp is 210* high speed fan truns on at 220* and that still is normal.. according to ford...

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post #19 of 20 Old 06-12-2005, 01:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ready4this96
according to the ford service manual normal operating temp is 210* high speed fan truns on at 220* and that still is normal.. according to ford...
Jeez Ford, talk about pushing the limits

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post #20 of 20 Old 06-12-2005, 02:10 PM
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IF THE RADIATOR IS OLD TRY REPLACING IT. ALSO TRY RUNNING A 160 DEGREE THERMOSTAT IN THE SUMMER MONTHS . ESPECIALY IF U HAVE A HEAVY FOOT ALSO CHECK YOUR AIR FILTER . ALSO CHECK YOUR OIL . CHECK AND TRANS FLUIDS .CHECKYOUR FAN CLUCTH MAKE SURE IT IS NOT WORE OUT , A ELECTRIC FAN IS ALWAYS NICE . TRY MIXING A NEW BATCH OF ANTIFREEZE SEE IF THAT HELPS MAYBE THERE IS TO MUCH WATER OR ANTIFREEZE IN THE MIX. U COULD ALSO HOOK UP A COLD AIR INTAKE SETUP. ANOTHER THING IS A VENTED HOOD . IM MY CAR RIGHT NOW I AM SETTING UP DIFFERENT GAUGES BECAUSE WHEN I DRIVE IN THE DAY IF I FLICK THE LIGHTS ON MY TEMP GAUGE RISES 5 TO 10 DEGREES SAME THING HAPPENS WHEN I PLAY MY HIGH OUTPUT RADIO LOUD . U GOTTA WATCH FOR JUMPY GAUGES . TRY USING A HEAT INDICATOR GUN ON THE LOWER INTAKE LIKE WHERE THE THERMOSTAT HEAT SENSOR IS . IM OVERKILL ON MAINTNENCE ON MY CAR BUT A MOTOR IS ONLY AS GOOD AS WHAT U PUT IN IT AND IM SURE ALL FLUIDS BRAKE DOWN ITS ALL ON PERSONAL PREFEERENCE AND HOW MUCH MONEY YOUR LOOKING TO SPEND ON WHAT YOU WANNA ACHEIVE . YOU DO UNDERSTAND THAT IT COULD BE FOR MANY REASON WHY THE CAR GETS HOT IF PARTS ARE NOT FREQUENTLY UPDATED EVERY COUPLE YRS . * sorry for the caps i just noticed as i finished

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