HOW DO YOU KEEP HEADER BOLTS TIGHT? - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 32 Old 03-31-2004, 05:59 PM Thread Starter
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HOW DO YOU KEEP HEADER BOLTS TIGHT?

I got headers put on my car, like a year ago when I had an engine rebuild, since then I get an exhaust leak about every 2 weeks, and have to tighten and even replace missing bolts, and MAN those things are hard to get to. How do you keep them tight ? can you put some sorta loctite on them ?? Anyone have any suggestions ?


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post #2 of 32 Old 03-31-2004, 06:02 PM
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I've used the Stage8 locking header bolts in the past, but they're a major PITA to remove if you need to take the headers off. Now, I'm just using the bolts from the kit. The bolts towards the back of the motor tend to back out every couple of weeks.


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post #3 of 32 Old 03-31-2004, 06:12 PM
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Lockwashers

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post #4 of 32 Old 03-31-2004, 06:13 PM
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A trick I heard about and used is I used teflon tape on the headers bolts. I have had my headers on for 2 years and not one single leak. I jsut wrapped the bolts with teflon like I was sealing them. I don't remember exactly where I heard to use teflon tape on headers bolts, Hot Rod or Car Craft magazine. I have not had to remove the header bolts as of yet, so I cannot say if it will be easy or not.

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post #5 of 32 Old 03-31-2004, 06:16 PM Thread Starter
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does teflon tape withstand that temp without melting ?

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post #6 of 32 Old 03-31-2004, 06:42 PM
 
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The TFE tape should hold well over 180 degrees. We use it at work for swaglock fitting that are over 100 degress C. So unless you over heat bad you won't have a problem.
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post #7 of 32 Old 03-31-2004, 06:47 PM
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post #8 of 32 Old 03-31-2004, 07:03 PM
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Wow, those self locking bolts are very cool. I assume they work well if you are posting about them... but how do you like em? I was going to use some LocTight... but these bolts look like a better option.

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post #9 of 32 Old 03-31-2004, 07:57 PM
 
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Use stage 8 locking bolts. That will 100% do the trick.
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post #10 of 32 Old 03-31-2004, 09:52 PM
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Stage 8 lockers here shiny as the day I put them in too

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post #11 of 32 Old 03-31-2004, 10:03 PM
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lock washers, and loc-tite

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post #12 of 32 Old 03-31-2004, 10:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by David1969
Use stage 8 locking bolts. That will 100% do the trick.
Can you post a link of a number, I'm doing FMS shorties in a few weeks. Thanks.
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post #13 of 32 Old 04-01-2004, 02:11 AM
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http://www.stage8.com

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post #14 of 32 Old 04-01-2004, 02:55 AM
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Um, what size do I want? Sorry, I don't do headers myself. I have a shop do it and I have no idea what size.

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post #15 of 32 Old 04-01-2004, 12:28 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input, how expensive are those split locks and the stage 8's ?

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post #16 of 32 Old 04-01-2004, 01:50 PM
 
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I've have used the Stage 8's and after a year and half the gasket finally blew out. The bolts will still loosen up a little bit enough for the gasket to blow out after a little. They are a heck of a lot better than regular header bolts, but I think the split locks would work better. IMO
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post #17 of 32 Old 04-01-2004, 01:54 PM
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How bout doing this






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post #18 of 32 Old 04-01-2004, 02:08 PM
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can you use loc tight on aluminum heads?

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post #19 of 32 Old 04-01-2004, 03:16 PM
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When mine fall out, I replace them with stainless steel bolts and locking washers. I use the kind with the internal hex heads (use an allen wrench), because I can get them tighter than the regular hex bolts that are essentially touching the header tubes. The new ones seem to stay put, although when I do heads, I'll probably use the stage8's.
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post #20 of 32 Old 04-01-2004, 03:45 PM
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Round track racers use a dab of silicone bridged between edge of bolt & header and swear by it..I use the stage 8, but they r a major PITA 2 install or remove......

Last edited by midnightrider; 04-01-2004 at 03:48 PM.
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post #21 of 32 Old 04-01-2004, 04:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by FastGT94
can you use loc tight on aluminum heads?
Not sure but

I don't want that white corrosive junk that appears and wrecks out your threads when different kinds of metal like Aluminum parts & steel bolts are used together.

Every steel bolt, plug, etc that I put in Aluminum gets anti seize.

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post #22 of 32 Old 04-01-2004, 07:39 PM
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Quote:
Wow, those self locking bolts are very cool. I assume they work well if you are posting about them... but how do you like em? I was going to use some LocTight... but these bolts look like a better option.
I like them plenty. They're only $10-20 more than the Stage 8s....I don't have a ton of miles on them as I just got the car running again, but as you can see from the design they are NOT going to come loose. Neat product.
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post #23 of 32 Old 04-02-2004, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by midnightrider
Round track racers use a dab of silicone bridged between edge of bolt & header and swear by it..I use the stage 8, but they r a major PITA 2 install or remove......
Could you elaborate on the silicone idea? Do they just coat the last 1/4 inch of the bolt to the head of the bolt or what?

-Dale
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post #24 of 32 Old 04-02-2004, 02:49 PM
 
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I used the ARP header bolts on 3 different cars and have't had one loosen up on my yet.
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post #25 of 32 Old 04-02-2004, 04:29 PM
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I plan to use the ARP bolts with a little high temp loc tight but I'm worried about using that stuff on aluminum heads. I may just use a little rtv on the bolts instead.

-Dale
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post #26 of 32 Old 04-03-2004, 12:11 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by SilverSmith82
Can you post a link of a number, I'm doing FMS shorties in a few weeks. Thanks.
You can find them without all the confusion of a part # HERE.
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post #27 of 32 Old 04-03-2004, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Phantom5oh
I used the ARP header bolts on 3 different cars and have't had one loosen up on my yet.
EXACTLY!

I used their SS set on my prior 90 LX 5.0 coupe and never had a single issue with them backing out or coming loose - plus they are 12 points, NOT the big ass 6 points... It's easier getting a 12 point wrench on the end of the ARP bolts, because you have more flexibility with getting the right angle needed for turning the wrench.

You can get them at Maximum Motorosports (see link in my sig) for $37 for 16 of them. Excellent choice in header bolts.

I don't know about those using the Stage 8's - but it sounds like those bolts do the trick BUT they are extrememly hard to work with when installing OR removing. If you are one to work on your car alot or one who tries different combos and such, the last frustrating thing you need to deal with is trying to remove ANY bolts that are a PIA to remove or install again...

I'd go with the ARP's can't beat'em for the quality and price... easy to install easy to remove (if needing to remove).
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post #28 of 32 Old 09-12-2019, 01:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles9T4 View Post
Stage 8 lockers here shiny as the day I put them in too
I have a 1"3 quarter" headers. Can't keep the header bolts from moving out. There 7/16" very short. very difficult to tighten left bank
close to calpanel. driver's side.
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post #29 of 32 Old 09-12-2019, 04:21 PM
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Tighten the header bolts down snug as you realistically can. Take the car out, let it get hot, put it in the garage. Once the headers/heads cool down, tighten them down again. If you don't do that, you'll have the thermal expansion etc and you'll never actually "torque" the bolt correctly, it'll just basically be tight momentarily and then loose from that day on until you tighten it after a heat cycle.
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post #30 of 32 Old 09-14-2019, 09:38 AM
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we switched over to the ARP and no longer have any backing out.

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post #31 of 32 Old 09-15-2019, 10:01 AM
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Bolts like header bolts stay locked tight because of tension loading. The boat either compresses something elastic or stretches enough to keep preload on the bolt. The preload distortion and friction prevents it from turning.

If a header bolt is coming loose either something in the bolt clamping stack, like a gasket, is yielding and the bolt is going to zero tension as it shakes around. The stack the bolt is compressing gets shorter. Then it can rattle out.

The other cause is something is the bolt itself is stretching or the threads are pulling out.

Either you have soft gaskets compressing and letting the stack get shorter which removes tension, or the bolt or threads are yielding and not staying in the elastic area that maintains tension.

The only times in my life I have had header bolt issues was running thick soft gaskets. I'm sure some bolts are junk, but I've never run into that.

I have had a 40 pound turbo hanging off my header and never once had a bolt loosen, and I never used anything special for hardware or glue. As a matter of fact I coat ALL of my threaded things going into aluminum with anti-seize lubricant (just like I do lug nuts that get repeatedly changed). I never have and never will use a lock washer or thread glue on header bolts and I never every have a problem unless I use a weak gasket.

My headers get red hot in a pass and have 40-50 psi exhaust pressure and the bolts never come loose. I don't care what fastener I use, Cal Custom, Auto Zone, or fancy pants ARP. I do make sure my flanges are flat and I never use gaskets other than a special high temperature RTV.


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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fstpony94 View Post
I got headers put on my car, like a year ago when I had an engine rebuild, since then I get an exhaust leak about every 2 weeks, and have to tighten and even replace missing bolts, and MAN those things are hard to get to. How do you keep them tight ? can you put some sorta loctite on them ?? Anyone have any suggestions ?
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