1994 GT/Auto with No Start/Normal Crank - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 09-06-2019, 11:32 PM Thread Starter
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1994 GT/Auto with No Start/Normal Crank

To whom might be able to offer any help,
My wife was out driving our '94 GT/Auto a couple weeks back when the car stalled while waiting at a light. Before having the car towed home, I checked for codes, checked the reset in the trunk, picked up a new ignition module, coil and some fuel. No codes, reset not tripped and none of these items got the car back on the road. I had the car towed home and started reading through my copy of Charles Probst's "Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control" which has been really helpful with my '86. After the "quick test", the manual said to check the Ignition system. Performing the TFI-IV electrical test I found that continuity was good between the distributor base and the block; there was battery voltage between PWR on the distributor harness and the distributor base KOEO; I was getting 8 to 10 volts between "start" on the TFI connector and the distributor base during engine crank. When backprobing the TFI connector at "PIP" I got a maximum of 2.9V during engine crank, just under the 3V to 5V acceptable range. When I backprobed the distributor connector at PIP A (to EEC) and PIP B (to TFI) I got a max of 2.9V to PIP A and 3.46V to PIP B during engine crank, so the PIP A was just below the 3V to 5V acceptable range while the PIP B fell within range. If the PIP is out of range, the book suggests a faulty Hall Sender, however these were barely out of range. Finally, I backprobed the TFI connector at "SPOUT" and got 1.4V at engine crank rather than the 3V to 5V acceptable range. The book said to check wiring to control module and if ok that the control module may be faulty.
I took the OEM and aftermarket Ignition Control Module to be tested at Autozone; both tested good.
I installed new Motorcraft plugs, Motorcraft spark plug wires and a new DUI distributor cap and rotor; no start.
I checked the fuel pressure at he rail; fuel pressure is right about 38psi with KOEO.
I checked that all fuses under the hood are good.

I disconnected one of the fuel injector harnesses and inserted a Bosch Noid Light; no light with engine crank.
I disconnected one of the spark plug wires and inserted a grounded spark tester, no spark with engine crank.
I ordered a Motorcraft Stator/Hall Sender assembly thinking that maybe this has failed and is not allowing for the injectors to fire or for spark.

Am I going down the right path?
Can you think of anything else to check?
Thank you for taking the time to read through this.
Ben


'86 Capri RS; G-Force/Hanlon T-5; Ram HDX Clutch, QuickTime SFI Bellhousing; MM Clutch Cable Kit; '87-'93 Spindles, Brakes & Struts; SSBC Rear Disk Brake Kit; BBK Long-tube headers & X-pipe; Flowmaster Mufflers; A/C Elim.; 17x9 Cobra R Wheels; March UD Pulleys; 12 Deg. Timing; 190lph FP; 3:73s'
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post #2 of 11 Old 09-07-2019, 10:42 AM
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The PIP test from the book is not an accurate test

It’s a digital square wave that your meter is only reading the average of

It really should be looked at with a scope.

And your meter test should give around 4-5volts

If you slowly moved the distributor while looking at the voltage you would see it more clearly

Suffice to say your diagnosis is 99% correct, replace the stator and tfi together and you should be good to go.

If it were me i would replace the coil with a factory replacement as well

Most of these ‘high performance’ ignition systems will kill the factory stuff


89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #3 of 11 Old 09-08-2019, 05:41 PM
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Agreed on the PIP.
I just wanted to add that without a proper PIP signal, the EEC will not demand fuel or spark.

Opting for the motorcraft unit was a wise decision, as I have seen the bosch replacements fail straight out of the box.

87 coupe 5.0EFI conversion, SN95 5lug,
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post #4 of 11 Old 09-09-2019, 07:03 AM
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similar problem in my 95 cobra. Working my way to to replacing motor craft spark plugs as well. Only question I have is what reset in the truck are you speaking of?
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post #5 of 11 Old 09-09-2019, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you indy2000 & HYBRED for your responses.
Just got the replacement Motorcraft Strator/Hall Sender in the mail today, looking forward to replacing the unit.
bcLVSn95, I am referring to the "fuel cutoff switch" which is located on the left-side of the trunk. On my '94 there is a hole in the trunk liner so you hit the reset button.

'86 Capri RS; G-Force/Hanlon T-5; Ram HDX Clutch, QuickTime SFI Bellhousing; MM Clutch Cable Kit; '87-'93 Spindles, Brakes & Struts; SSBC Rear Disk Brake Kit; BBK Long-tube headers & X-pipe; Flowmaster Mufflers; A/C Elim.; 17x9 Cobra R Wheels; March UD Pulleys; 12 Deg. Timing; 190lph FP; 3:73s'
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post #6 of 11 Old 09-09-2019, 03:41 PM
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that is an inertia safety switch, unless in a collision or rollover, aint gonna be open

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #7 of 11 Old 09-11-2019, 10:18 PM
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Will the car start with the SPOUT removed?
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post #8 of 11 Old 09-13-2019, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
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Sure enough, the replacement Distributor Stator (Motorcraft DU-50 / E9TZ-12A112-A) fixed the issue! Car fired right up!
Borrowed my buddy's press which made removing and installing the distributor gear a snap!
Thanks for your help corral members!!!
Ben
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'86 Capri RS; G-Force/Hanlon T-5; Ram HDX Clutch, QuickTime SFI Bellhousing; MM Clutch Cable Kit; '87-'93 Spindles, Brakes & Struts; SSBC Rear Disk Brake Kit; BBK Long-tube headers & X-pipe; Flowmaster Mufflers; A/C Elim.; 17x9 Cobra R Wheels; March UD Pulleys; 12 Deg. Timing; 190lph FP; 3:73s'
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post #9 of 11 Old 09-13-2019, 10:15 PM
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Yes the car will start without the SPOUT, if you have the base timing close. You may have to warm the engine up first. You can also remove the spout with the car running if you want.

87 coupe 5.0EFI conversion, SN95 5lug,
95 GT, V1$-Trim, NoSlow5.0's Motorsports intake, TwEECer RT & etc...

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post #10 of 11 Old Yesterday, 11:23 PM Thread Starter
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To answer the question, no, the car would not start with the SPOUT removed before I replaced the Stator.


'86 Capri RS; G-Force/Hanlon T-5; Ram HDX Clutch, QuickTime SFI Bellhousing; MM Clutch Cable Kit; '87-'93 Spindles, Brakes & Struts; SSBC Rear Disk Brake Kit; BBK Long-tube headers & X-pipe; Flowmaster Mufflers; A/C Elim.; 17x9 Cobra R Wheels; March UD Pulleys; 12 Deg. Timing; 190lph FP; 3:73s'
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post #11 of 11 Old Today, 07:59 AM
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Oh I thought he was asking in general terms if a car would start with the spout removed. If everything is working properly yes. If the PIP is faulty, no.

87 coupe 5.0EFI conversion, SN95 5lug,
95 GT, V1$-Trim, NoSlow5.0's Motorsports intake, TwEECer RT & etc...

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