Car died while driving. - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 89 Old 06-23-2019, 12:21 AM Thread Starter
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Car died while driving.

The other a day a block from my house my 95 GT died on me while cruising (luckily I was able to coast into my driveway). I tried cranking the engine but the battery was very low and would not crank. So I charged the battery and the motor was able to crank just fine but no start. I first thought that my alternator was going because a week before my battery was low and if I did a short run from my house to somewhere else the car was having trouble cranking over. So I thought it was the alternator, how ever I also do not here the fuel pump priming either. So I am not sure what the problem is. Tomorrow I will buy a voltmeter so I can test things. Also as side not I tried to check the engine codes but the car would not give me any, Is there no code for alternator and fuel pump?

If anybody has any suggestions that would be great. I do have a MSD ignition coil but I swapped back to my stock coil and the car still wouldn't start.

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post #2 of 89 Old 06-23-2019, 12:38 AM
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It could be a bad battery, dead cell.
You can’t test that with a multimeter, you need a load tester.
Most parts stores will perform the test free of charge.

You should always have at least one code.
OBD 1 doesn’t have codes for the alternators.


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post #3 of 89 Old 06-23-2019, 01:07 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HYBRED View Post
It could be a bad battery, dead cell.
You canít test that with a multimeter, you need a load tester.
Most parts stores will perform the test free of charge.

You should always have at least one code.
OBD 1 doesnít have codes for the alternators.
so would the battery going bad cause the car to just die suddenly? would it also cause the fuel pump to not prime? Also I should mention that my clock was cutting in and out.
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post #4 of 89 Old 06-23-2019, 09:54 AM
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test the battery with a voltmeter, what does the voltage drop to when cranking?

low voltage to the ecu, will cause many 'weird' things to happen

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post #5 of 89 Old 06-23-2019, 02:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HYBRED View Post
It could be a bad battery, dead cell.
You canít test that with a multimeter, you need a load tester.
Most parts stores will perform the test free of charge.

You should always have at least one code.
OBD 1 doesnít have codes for the alternators.
You most certainly can test a battery with a voltmeter, youre just not testing it under load. If the battery has dropped a cell, it will not read in the 12v range as it should. If its failing under load, monitoring the voltmeter while cranking will show if the battery is shot.

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post #6 of 89 Old 06-23-2019, 05:45 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by darkbarghest83 View Post
You most certainly can test a battery with a voltmeter, youre just testing it under load. If the battery has dropped a cell, it will not read in the 12v range as it should. If its failing under load, monitoring the voltmeter while cranking will show if the battery is shot.
The battery reads 12.66 volts and while cranking it read about 6-9 volts. I checked the fuel pump fuse, also I can here relays clicking. I still don't here the fuel pump priming.

Also isn't it strange how I can't get any codes to show? isn''t there also a way to jump the fuel pump to see if it will work.

I think what is happening is very strange because I have had fuel pumps go in the past on different early 90's ford trucks and they always slowly spudder out and die. My mustang on the other hand just turned off like a switch. I even checked the fuel rail schrader valve and it seemed like it had a decent amount of pressure left in it( I think it still would have run on that) I was probably revving 2500 rpm when it shut down and I lost all power.
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post #7 of 89 Old 06-23-2019, 06:39 PM
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voltage is low, but it still cranks

if you suspect no fuel, either hook up a fuel pressure gauge

or take some carb cleaner and spray it down the intake

you should be able to idle with carb cleaner without issue

this will confirm no fuel

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post #8 of 89 Old 06-23-2019, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
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voltage is low, but it still cranks

if you suspect no fuel, either hook up a fuel pressure gauge

or take some carb cleaner and spray it down the intake

you should be able to idle with carb cleaner without issue

this will confirm no fuel

Ok so the car would not fire at all with starting fluid. I tried several times and nothing. Is there anything that would cause the fuel pump to not prime and have no ignition? I am really at a lose as to what the problem is with the car. Hopefully we can get this figured out or I will just tow it too a shop.
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post #9 of 89 Old 06-23-2019, 10:39 PM
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what starter fluid did you use?

we are not going to solve this in one post

one question, 1

one answer, 1

do you want to continue diagnosing?

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post #10 of 89 Old 06-23-2019, 10:46 PM Thread Starter
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It was a motor medic instant starting fluid, says it is good for all engines. I would like to keep diagnosing it if I can.

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post #11 of 89 Old 06-23-2019, 11:05 PM
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pull at plug wire and attach a spark gap tester on it

you want 20Kv or more, like an inch of free air, if using a test light in stead

No prime, how do you know, have you measured current of read no fuel pressure?

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post #12 of 89 Old 06-24-2019, 02:06 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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pull at plug wire and attach a spark gap tester on it

you want 20Kv or more, like an inch of free air, if using a test light in stead

No prime, how do you know, have you measured current of read no fuel pressure?
No, But i can not hear the full pump running at all.
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post #13 of 89 Old 06-24-2019, 08:24 AM
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How old is the battery?
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post #14 of 89 Old 06-24-2019, 09:57 AM
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supply a ground, to the far left pin of the diag connector

hold the connector with the two pins at the bottom, key in run

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post #15 of 89 Old 06-24-2019, 04:59 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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supply a ground, to the far left pin of the diag connector

hold the connector with the two pins at the bottom, key in run


sorry but I am not the best with electrical, when you say supply a ground do you mean just touch it to the chassis or something else. Also the battery is probably 3 years old. could the battery be causing all the problems?
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post #16 of 89 Old 06-24-2019, 08:15 PM
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yes supply a ground, add a jumper and touch ground, that is what the ecm does

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post #17 of 89 Old 06-24-2019, 09:20 PM
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Are you pulling codes from the correct location under the hood?

6volts is too low for the EEC, I think your problem is the battery or a faulty connection/cable, but Indy will help you diagnose it if you follow his troubleshooting steps.

Having the battery load tested would be a good idea since the voltage is so low.

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post #18 of 89 Old 06-24-2019, 09:39 PM Thread Starter
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Are you pulling codes from the correct location under the hood?

6volts is too low for the EEC, I think your problem is the battery or a faulty connection/cable, but Indy will help you diagnose it if you follow his troubleshooting steps.

Having the battery load tested would be a good idea since the voltage is so low.
Yes I am pulling codes from the right location. I have done it a few times before, I just bought a battery and will install it soon.
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post #19 of 89 Old 06-25-2019, 12:12 AM Thread Starter
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Ok update, I got a new battery so voltage should be ok now. I tried to to pull codes again and also tried the fuel pump test and nothing happened. I also bought a spark tester and i currently have no spark anywhere except for when the SPOUT connector is unplugged. I also did the TFI test found in this video here :
and I have no flickering on the coil. Also I did check to see if there is any power going to the fuel injectors and there is none at all. I have read that the computer controls the fuel injectors, so I am now thinking that my ecm has failed. Also does the ecm control the time on the clock dash pod? cause if it does my clock was flickering and went out the same day the car died on me.
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post #20 of 89 Old 06-25-2019, 07:51 AM
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Does the CEL illuminate with key on?
The EEC doesn’t control your dash clock, but that symptom does indicate an electrical issue.

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post #21 of 89 Old 06-25-2019, 08:45 AM
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to follow up on the CEL

it should be on with key in run, then go out when the engine cranking

does it? or does it stay on?

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post #22 of 89 Old 06-25-2019, 08:47 AM
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also we are not at the stage of calling the ecm, they are more tests

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post #23 of 89 Old 06-25-2019, 11:17 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by indy2000 View Post
to follow up on the CEL

it should be on with key in run, then go out when the engine cranking

does it? or does it stay on?
No CEL light comes on when I turn the key to the run position and nothing changes when I crank the engine.
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post #24 of 89 Old 06-25-2019, 05:24 PM
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check for 5v ref

unplug the act, key in run, check both pins, one should be 5volts

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post #25 of 89 Old 06-25-2019, 10:11 PM Thread Starter
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check for 5v ref

unplug the act, key in run, check both pins, one should be 5volts
I only read .19V.
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post #26 of 89 Old 06-25-2019, 10:33 PM
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you have

a shorted sensor

short to ground 5v

poor power to ecm

poor ground from ecm

faulty ecm

all of which can be tested
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post #27 of 89 Old 06-25-2019, 11:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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you have

a shorted sensor

short to ground 5v

poor power to ecm

poor ground from ecm

faulty ecm

all of which can be tested
which should I start with? ECM?
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post #28 of 89 Old 06-25-2019, 11:49 PM
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no

unplug all sensors that share the 5v ref one at a time, each time checking for it at the act.

if it doesn't come back then you, go to ecm cut the 5v cut the 5v feed and check to make sure the ecm is not producing it

if still nothing, you voltage drop the power and grounds to the ecm, by backprobing while the key is on

report what you find.

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post #29 of 89 Old 06-26-2019, 12:35 AM Thread Starter
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I actually have to cut those wires? the 5v feed and ref?

Also which sensors? TPS, EGR, ACT, MAF?
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post #30 of 89 Old 06-26-2019, 09:13 AM
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you just cut one wire 5v ref feed, pin 26

there are only three sensor to unplug TPS, bap/map, EGR position

are you looking at a wiring diagram?

you need to understand the 5v ref circuit design.

dont cut yet, just do the unplug it test first, then ecm power and grounds

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post #31 of 89 Old 06-26-2019, 12:14 PM Thread Starter
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I just looked at a wiring diagram, it makes sense now. So I will test each sensor one at a time using the act.
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post #32 of 89 Old 06-26-2019, 02:29 PM
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YES, you want to see if the 5volts returns= shorted sensor

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post #33 of 89 Old 06-27-2019, 05:55 PM
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You have a text book Pip sensor failure. Replace the distributor and all will be good
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post #34 of 89 Old 06-27-2019, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
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You have a text book Pip sensor failure. Replace the distributor and all will be good
aahhh, no.

if that were the case the CEL would come on in run and stay on in crank.....

poster has spark without spout connected, no PIP would be no spark

please edit your response.
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post #35 of 89 Old 06-28-2019, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
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Today I will try and check all the sensors, I haven't had time over the past couple of days.
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