if that were the case the CEL would come on in run and stay on in crank.....
poster has spark without spout connected, no PIP would be no spark
please edit your response.
Sorry but you are wrong. When the PIP starts failing the engine stalls. You might get code 14 but not always. Pulling the SPOUT bypasses the PIP allowing the car to run with default timing. I have seen this condition 3 or 4 times on 94-95 Mustangs GTs. Iíve owned 4 of them.
Spark with the SPOUT out, but not with the SPOUT in suggests a PIP problem. The PIP signal level needs to be above 6.5 volts to trigger the computer, but only needs to be 5.75 volts to trigger the TFI module. Hence with a weak PIP signal, you could get spark but no injector pulse.
It typically happens when the car warms up as the PIP sensor is heat sensitive. The PIP stops working and the engine dies. Wait a bit for the engine to cool and it restarts. It tends to be very erratic at first but increases in frequency until it does altogether. The first time it happened on my 94 GT it literally took me months of research to find the cause. While the PIP sensor can be replaced, it is easiest to just get a new distributor.
You have to be careful with rebuilt distributors too. They often get turned in because of the erratic PIP sensor, but this sensor is not always replaced in a rebuilt. Since it tends to fal after getting hot, it seems to pass quality check and gets sold. The new buyer then inherits another bad sensor.
Keep in mind I can't pull codes the ECM won't give me anything, Fuel pump is not priming at all and I have no power to the injectors when the spout is in or out. I am pretty sure this is more then just the PIP.
Ok I am back from my Tofino trip. Today I checked the pins on the ccrm. I checked Pin 8 which i believe is power going into the EEC relay it read 12.4V same as the battery. Then I checked pin 12 which is power out of the EEC relay with the key on and there is only 2V. So bad ccrm? also checked pin 11 for constant power and it is good.