Rebuilding - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 14 Old 12-09-2018, 09:13 PM Thread Starter
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I think it’s about time to rebuild the motor in my 95 gt. She has a little over 300k miles on her and runs excellent. But she has leaks. And I think she is tired. This is the first mustang I have owned so I have nothing to compare to. My questions are. I want to add some power to her. Nothing insane but maybe get her up to 350 hp what would you recommend for achieving this? And do I have to worry about compatibility with parts I buy? And where is the best place to order these parts? Ty for your time

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post #2 of 14 Old 12-09-2018, 11:09 PM
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if you are trying to achieve 350 wheel HP you are either going to need a full H/C/I setup or some sort of power adder. Are you planning on doing anything to the bottom end "refresh" wise, or just leave it as it sits? You mention a rebuild, but does that just refer to adding power? There are plenty of ways to achieve your goal, but it depends on your budget and long term plan. There are TONS of places to buy 302 parts. I like summit racing or jegs for a lot of things (not always the cheapest). Realistically, if you do a heads cam and intake or a power adder, you will need some sort of tuning done. This should be figured into your budget! HCI will be close to 2500 in parts (unless you get used stuff) plus the tuning and any other things that you need.

Compatibility wise the 94-95 has a few things different than the fox body, but all the top end kits should work the same IIRC

the other option would be to throw some spray at it..

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post #3 of 14 Old 12-15-2018, 06:24 PM
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Leaks from where? I wouldn't rebuild a whole engine due to a rear main seal leak or an old oil pan gasket.

If you are looking for an excuse to rebuild then go for it.

350 to the wheels... aluminum cylinder heads, ported Cobra intake, stock cam and a blower. That'll put you more like 400-450 and keep the driveability stock. Or cam it if you want but the GT cam works well with a supercharger.

Another option to consider is a modular swap. Wrecked 96/97 GT for the wiring and electronics and you have all sorts of options from 4.6L land. A stock head/intake 2V with a good set of cams and bolt ons can hit 300 to the wheels, a 4V with cams and bolt ons can get over 350 to the wheels. You also get a glorious 7500+ redline. Modular parts are cheap, plentiful, tons of #### in the junkyards to pull from and the aftermarket for them is like it was for the 5.0 pushrod 10-20 years ago. Huge.

**puts on flame suit in pushrod forum**

-2000 Mustang GT Steeda #0048. 4V swapped, FTBR IRS, Steeda factory suspension, Ultralites, VRS X, "Exhaust Shop Special" catback.

Stock 2V computer rewired for 4V, Tuned by James Gordon.
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post #4 of 14 Old 12-19-2018, 12:30 AM
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Kenne Bell blower will get you there and is so much damn fun!!

On a quiet day you can hear Chevys rusting. (except my '02 Z06)

All better now.....Stroked 331, Forged Probe Pistons, Scat Crank & Rods, Kenne Bell 2200, AFR 185's, Comp Cam XE266HR, BBK 70MM TB, 90MM LMAF, 42# injectors, 3.55's, JBA Shorties, MagnaFlow exhaust, 395 RWHP, 403 RWTQ
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post #5 of 14 Old 12-19-2018, 01:35 AM
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Whatever you do buy quality parts the first time. If you canít afford them save more money, cheap parts will break and cause way more headaches and money long term.
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post #6 of 14 Old 12-21-2018, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 95 Laser GT Vert View Post
Kenne Bell blower will get you there and is so much damn fun!!
If he can find one... He could always swap in a 4.6L with an Eaton...

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Whatever you do buy quality parts the first time. If you canít afford them save more money, cheap parts will break and cause way more headaches and money long term.
x1000. Funny how people always have money to do it right the second time.

-2000 Mustang GT Steeda #0048. 4V swapped, FTBR IRS, Steeda factory suspension, Ultralites, VRS X, "Exhaust Shop Special" catback.

Stock 2V computer rewired for 4V, Tuned by James Gordon.
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post #7 of 14 Old 12-27-2018, 08:46 AM
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Get a stroker kit if you're pulling the motor. Then an alphabet cam, set of GT40x heads (check the classifieds), some 30# injectors and matching MAF an 80mm tb and you should have fun drive-able car that won't require a lot of tuning. Most of the parts I mentioned you can pick up here used for a decent price. If you want to turbo later on, I'd suggest tapping your oil pan and capping it or get a deeper oil pan while the motor is out. There're tons of posts about stroker kits if you go that route. This is basically what I did so I'm only speaking from my experience with the parts.
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post #8 of 14 Old 12-31-2018, 01:02 PM
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Get a stroker kit if you're pulling the motor. Then an alphabet cam, set of GT40x heads (check the classifieds), some 30# injectors and matching MAF an 80mm tb and you should have fun drive-able car that won't require a lot of tuning. Most of the parts I mentioned you can pick up here used for a decent price. If you want to turbo later on, I'd suggest tapping your oil pan and capping it or get a deeper oil pan while the motor is out. There're tons of posts about stroker kits if you go that route. This is basically what I did so I'm only speaking from my experience with the parts.
Yes because running a 302 alphabet cam and 302 heads on a 331/347 is great advice... Not to mention some of the worst options for a 302 at that...

-2000 Mustang GT Steeda #0048. 4V swapped, FTBR IRS, Steeda factory suspension, Ultralites, VRS X, "Exhaust Shop Special" catback.

Stock 2V computer rewired for 4V, Tuned by James Gordon.
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post #9 of 14 Old 01-02-2019, 11:32 AM
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Yes because running a 302 alphabet cam and 302 heads on a 331/347 is great advice... Not to mention some of the worst options for a 302 at that...
How is that bad advise for that he wants to do? An alphabet cam and gt40x heads are not a bad combo to be drivable. Not everyone wants to spring for a custom cam and the heads can always be upgraded when he is ready for that. Like I said I was speaking from my experience with that combo so if you have another combo you used help the guy out, if you're going to sit here and just throw out useless opinions, go to the bar for that
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post #10 of 14 Old 01-03-2019, 11:51 PM
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Not much use in stroking if you canít move the additional volume of air...


On a quiet day you can hear Chevys rusting. (except my '02 Z06)

All better now.....Stroked 331, Forged Probe Pistons, Scat Crank & Rods, Kenne Bell 2200, AFR 185's, Comp Cam XE266HR, BBK 70MM TB, 90MM LMAF, 42# injectors, 3.55's, JBA Shorties, MagnaFlow exhaust, 395 RWHP, 403 RWTQ
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post #11 of 14 Old 01-04-2019, 03:51 PM
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How is that bad advise for that he wants to do? An alphabet cam and gt40x heads are not a bad combo to be drivable. Not everyone wants to spring for a custom cam and the heads can always be upgraded when he is ready for that. Like I said I was speaking from my experience with that combo so if you have another combo you used help the guy out, if you're going to sit here and just throw out useless opinions, go to the bar for that
Yeah no my opinion is not the useless one here... the useless one is the one that is choking off a stroker with tiny heads and a bad cam. Your experience is your experience, its likely your only one with these cars else you'd know better. Kinda like marrying the first and only girl you sleep with...

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Not much use in stroking if you canít move the additional volume of air...
This. If you don't have the money for the correct parts for a stroker don't get a stroker.
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-2000 Mustang GT Steeda #0048. 4V swapped, FTBR IRS, Steeda factory suspension, Ultralites, VRS X, "Exhaust Shop Special" catback.

Stock 2V computer rewired for 4V, Tuned by James Gordon.
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post #12 of 14 Old 01-04-2019, 07:40 PM
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OP has a goal of 350hp, and freshen up.

He could achieve 350hp with a H/C/I or a Supercharger or Nitrous.

Stroker kit is a substantial cost, and kind of a waste in a stock block.
It would be much cheaper to freshen up with rings/bearings/seals/ timing chain.
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post #13 of 14 Old 01-04-2019, 08:08 PM
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OP has a goal of 350hp, and freshen up.

He could achieve 350hp with a H/C/I or a Supercharger or Nitrous.

Stroker kit is a substantial cost, and kind of a waste in a stock block.
It would be much cheaper to freshen up with rings/bearings/seals/ timing chain.
ha, its like an echo of the second post on the thread! not sure the OP is even watching the thread at this point.
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post #14 of 14 Old 01-05-2019, 04:02 PM
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Lol probably. Maybe he actually did listen and got a leakdown check and just decided to do the seals and send it?

And I also never do understand ppl who stroke the stock paper mache 302 block. Spend all that money to put forged components in a block that will let go before the stock rotating assy would. Don't have the money to do a stroker with a Dart block=not enough money to do a stroker.

-2000 Mustang GT Steeda #0048. 4V swapped, FTBR IRS, Steeda factory suspension, Ultralites, VRS X, "Exhaust Shop Special" catback.

Stock 2V computer rewired for 4V, Tuned by James Gordon.
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