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post #1 of 33 Old 08-05-2002, 12:06 PM Thread Starter
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school me on lightnings

What do I need to know...weak spots, what to do/not to do etc


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post #2 of 33 Old 08-05-2002, 12:33 PM
 
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Transmissions (e40d) are not great, but suitable. They will be needing a rebuild anytime after 100K miles (and on some 93-94s, even sooner). Differentials will be the next that go out, but mileage may vary. I have 190K miles, and they are just now showing signs of needing replacement soon.

Tires... if they have the stock Firestone Firehawks, chunk them. They are garbage.

Stock mufflers fall apart after awhile, the internal baffles break down and rattle like crazy.

As far as modifications go, it's the general concensus now to avoid mass air conversions, and go with an EEC Tuner. There are multiple supercharger kits available, (and a Silver State turbo kit coming soon) They take many of the same 5.0/5.8 bolt-ons as Mustangs. And it's a piece of cake to crack into the low-mid 14s with just bolt-ons.

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post #3 of 33 Old 08-05-2002, 12:47 PM
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Hey Brian is tha FAQ you made still up?

I tried the link and it gave me the "not found" page.

That might be a great post for RL.
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post #4 of 33 Old 08-05-2002, 12:52 PM
 
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LOL... you know, I keep forgetting that I wrote that. Yup, it's up, but my ISP changed the hostname. Here's the new link:

http://w3.mivlmd.cablespeed.com/~baskin/faq.htm
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post #5 of 33 Old 08-05-2002, 12:56 PM Thread Starter
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Is there ANY good way to tell if the transmission has been rebuilt? The truck I got has 92k miles on it, and to me, it feels like it has been rebuilt, it shifts higher and firmer than stock (it shifts around 5300, just past redline on the stock tach...) It also has a HUGE aftermarket tranny cooler on it...

what exactly is the weak spot of the transmission?

The truck already has a full exhaust, with flowmasters (they will get changed out for something a little more quiet) and no cats. Besides that, the engine is going to stay stock.

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post #6 of 33 Old 08-05-2002, 01:19 PM
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hey rob with nothing more then exhaust (stock headers+no cats+2-1/2" flowmaster) underdrive pullies and a cone k&n on the throttle body my truck went 14.59 @ 92

thats at 4680lbs and 10° timing (most trucks seem to like 14 but mine doesnt for whatever reason)

at WFC i was cutting 2.06 60fts on radials

common mustang go fast goodies work exactly the same on the Ls. basically think of them as giant heavy speed density mustangs and your on the right track

anyways if your truck has the tow package youll have a huge tranny cooler that looks like a B&M stacked plate style and a huge 4 core radiator (that works awesome) the E4OD transmission is a really good tranny, just not in stock form. they seem to be the number 1 thing to bite the dust. id say if your tranny fluid looks and smells good your probably ok

rear ends are 8.8s with 31 spline track loks so any breakage with them is similar to how a mustang rear breaks, clutches wear, spider gears break, etc

front suspension bushings is another item that wears out a lot on the lightnings, not hard to diagnose as you can tell by looking if they are bad because they will be cracked and split etc
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post #7 of 33 Old 08-05-2002, 01:19 PM
 
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5300 is shifting really high. At WOT, mine shifts around 4600. Maybe check to see if it has a computer installed. The computer is on the driver side, against the firewall, behind the parking brake assembly. The Lightnings with the towing option did receive a tranny cooler, mounted in front of the radiator.

Flowmasters and no cats... sigh, I hate the farmer john mods

I have Bassani shorties, bassani high-flow cats, and a custom dual catback with Dynomax Ultra-Flo SS's. I LOVE the sound, and it's unique.

As far as where the tranny ultimately fails, I do not know.
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post #8 of 33 Old 08-05-2002, 02:03 PM Thread Starter
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wow 14.59? It would be hard not to want pulleys hehe It will get a K&N panel filter...because a car can't not have a K&N right?

It doesnt have a towing package....no hitch, someone obviously added a tranny cooler to it...the fluid smelled fine, so it should be OK.

By computer to you mean a chip? are these trannies electronicly controled, or mechanical via pressure etc?

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post #9 of 33 Old 08-05-2002, 02:19 PM
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the trannys have their own computer seperate from the regular EEC



BTW mustang underdrive pullies bolt right up....
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post #10 of 33 Old 08-05-2002, 06:35 PM
 
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Mike actually it's all one PCM

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post #11 of 33 Old 08-05-2002, 08:04 PM
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really? i thought they had their own wiring harness and box? i mean i know that the regular pcm controls the trans but for some reason i thought it had its own computer


whats the other harness on the firewall about 6" from the EEC harness?

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post #12 of 33 Old 08-06-2002, 01:26 AM
 
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If I am thinking of the same thing it's either the ABS computer or just a bulkhead fitting. Man my truck has been down so long I'm forgetting what things look like

One things for sure though, there's only one PCM unless you do something like a Pro-M mass air kit. Then you will have two.




Quote:
Originally posted by Mike Gager
really? i thought they had their own wiring harness and box? i mean i know that the regular pcm controls the trans but for some reason i thought it had its own computer


whats the other harness on the firewall about 6" from the EEC harness?
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post #13 of 33 Old 08-06-2002, 09:32 AM
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well i knew that the regular PCM controls the trannies, i just dont know why i thought there was another computer along with it, brain fart i guess heh
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post #14 of 33 Old 08-06-2002, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
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spark plugs...are they autolite 25's or 764's?

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post #15 of 33 Old 08-06-2002, 10:22 AM
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they are GT40 heads so they would be 764

25s are for E7 heads
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post #16 of 33 Old 08-06-2002, 11:04 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mike Gager
they are GT40 heads so they would be 764

25s are for E7 heads
k, thanks, wasnt sure if they used the same plugs or not

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post #17 of 33 Old 08-06-2002, 11:25 AM
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so when you planning on running the L to see what shell do?
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post #18 of 33 Old 08-06-2002, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mike Gager
so when you planning on running the L to see what shell do?
possibly tomorrow night....gotta do a tune up on it today when i bring it home

It felt pretty slow, like high 15 slow, but after getting out of an 11 second mustang, anything (slower) is going to feel slow

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post #19 of 33 Old 08-06-2002, 09:45 PM
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rl: Your WOT shifting sounds right to me. Mine shifts about 5300-5500 at WOT as well. Thought I'd mention, if you didn't know already, that the rear gears are 4.10s stock w/4 inch aluminum drivesaft. You can use something like big metal washers and shim the rubber snubbers up on the factory traction (slapper) bars to the leaf springs and help your traction. Here's some more interesting information you might want to read. Also check out the VP of the NLOC's web page at this link.

Last edited by speeddemon; 08-06-2002 at 09:48 PM.
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post #20 of 33 Old 08-07-2002, 02:00 AM
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I think all lightnings have the transmission cooler. It was not an option.

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post #21 of 33 Old 08-07-2002, 04:48 AM Thread Starter
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how much oil does this thing take? 6 quarts?

BTW, I LOVE the truck, pictures and track times come tomorrow...the exhaust thats on it HAS to go, it sounds friggen redneck. (is the stock crossover like 1" diameter and have an 02 sensor in it? I dont want this thing to be loud, or sound like a 'truck')
does anyone make X/H pipes for these things?

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post #22 of 33 Old 08-07-2002, 07:39 AM
 
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Yes, the original crossover pipe was tiny. The only company to make an X-pipe for the Lightning is Bassani... quality work. They also make equal lengths, high-flow cat pipes, and both front and rear exit cat=backs.
There are a few other companies that make headers, FRP, JBA, and Hooker. No long tubes specifically for the L, but some are making the mustang 351 conversion fit, by either notching the frame/motormount or heating the pipes and bending them out.
Oh, Cooks makes long tubes, but they are only sold through JDM.
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post #23 of 33 Old 08-07-2002, 12:29 PM Thread Starter
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one last thing....did they come from the factory with a like 3/4" plenum spacer?

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post #24 of 33 Old 08-07-2002, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by rl
one last thing....did they come from the factory with a like 3/4" plenum spacer?
Nope

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post #25 of 33 Old 08-07-2002, 12:59 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally posted by blownlightning


Nope
k, that thing is coming off ASAP


how the heck do you get the computer out of those things? I tried and couldnt...i think it has a chip in it.

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post #26 of 33 Old 08-07-2002, 01:04 PM
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why would you want to remove the plenum spacer? most people notice small gains by putting them on, certainly couldnt hurt anything (longer runners = more torque)


the computer comes out from under the dash. you have to remove the bracket for the parking brake assembly i believe. the 10mm bolt holding the harness to the computer is in the engine compartment but the box itself comes out through the interior
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post #27 of 33 Old 08-07-2002, 01:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mike Gager
why would you want to remove the plenum spacer? most people notice small gains by putting them on, certainly couldnt hurt anything (longer runners = more torque)


the computer comes out from under the dash. you have to remove the bracket for the parking brake assembly i believe. the 10mm bolt holding the harness to the computer is in the engine compartment but the box itself comes out through the interior
I dunno, I dont like plenum spacers...I'll leave it and see what happens

I tired getting it out from inside but i couldnt, I'll try harder next time....it looks like it has a chip in it (little black box on the back of the ECU with 4 screws in it, back as in, hwere the 'port' for a chip is..)

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post #28 of 33 Old 08-07-2002, 01:58 PM
 
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Some people have better luck taking the driver side wheelwell off, and approaching the computer from the engine side.
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post #29 of 33 Old 08-07-2002, 04:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Brian Baskin
Some people have better luck taking the driver side wheelwell off, and approaching the computer from the engine side.
I second that,.................Been there, Done that! MUCH easier to remove from the outside,..........just pull the inner fender loose. You don't have to remove it completely!

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post #30 of 33 Old 08-07-2002, 07:17 PM
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As far as longtubes you can get Hooker or Hedmann long tubes from Summit. They are for the 351W in 1.5" primaries. Quite a few L's running them that are on the NLOC site. Only "down" side to longtubes is the center portion of the exhaust, between the headers and the cat-back, has to be custom made. If you do a search on the NLOC site in the GEN 1 forum for the longtubes you'll find part numbers for everything you need to get.
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post #31 of 33 Old 08-07-2002, 07:37 PM
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Thumbs up

Also here's an update on Jeff Sparkman's (VP of NLOC) web page. That other link I posted is his old one. His new one is http://home.attbi.com/~lemonstrerouge .
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post #32 of 33 Old 08-08-2002, 05:37 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally posted by Brian Baskin
Some people have better luck taking the driver side wheelwell off, and approaching the computer from the engine side.
I had trobule getting it out like that....there is a black box on the back of the ECU with a bracket that goes around to the side, and it wont allow it to come out like that...

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post #33 of 33 Old 08-10-2002, 02:59 AM
 
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Im running some $130 headmans on my 351 89' f-150. I love them, but you would have to rig up something for a O2 sensor though..
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