I read somewhere that AJE k-members were more suited to drag racing and setup from Maximum motorsports, while heavier, would be better for road racing applications
I've read somewhere in LS1Tech where somebody used the MM k-member. So yes it can be done but IIRC since the MM k-member has some extra braces it may impede the use of the long tube headers(read need modification). I think that Griggs Racing actually sells a k-member for what you want to do. They have done it to their own cobra.
Side note: Ever check the price on full GR40 chassis for a fox?! $14K!!! MM's MaxGrip box is less than $5K
Boy, if I win tonights $170M PowerBall, you'll see the baddest fox of all time!!!
-'cause I love fox coupes, that's why!!
I have to laugh though when I hear people say you can make a mustang handle like a vette or an M3 and they think it might cost $1500 in parts. It cost mucho dollars if you want to play and even then a total goober behind the wheel of a vette or bmw will take your preped mustang to school unless you know wtf you're doing.
Did you choose a K member, Turbonotch? I'd also read that the AJE is better suited for drag applications but there seems to be quite a few street builds with the AJE.
I'm interested in using the AJE as well. I won't be going to the track at all...100% street.
I have the same questions about the suitability of the AJE piece for use on the street. I emailed AJE directly and expressed my concerns. They responded by suggesting that their "RR" K-member is stronger than their "regular" K-member. It still seems much less substantial than the Maximum Motorsports piece.
But with limited fabrication ability, it seems the AJE is a more straight forward solution using the Kooks headers.
I might get the AJE if i go turbo instead of centri supercharged, but will this take A arms from other companies like Maximum Motorsports? I know it's built for lightness instead of cornering.
The solid motor mounts are from Maximum Motorsports and are used for Modular motors. I have since sold those and made custom ones to sit the motor in just the spot I wanted it (dry sump 1/4" from the rack&pinion). Just being picky.
The thing I don't like about the AJE is the lower chassis support is the control arm mounting point. It is not a solid structure that is triangulated. Where the MM has a lower cross bar with flanges that boxed and the control is bolted to them.
The stock kmember is fine, griggs most costly kmember is a stock unit that has its holes filled in and control arm mounting holes are moved up. I had one on my old fox and i t was fine.
I believe I have found me a used AJE K-member for my ls1 fox. Although this particular one is setup for a mod motor it will work. I'll let you know my experiences if I do get it.
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