Vortech S-Trim rebuild instructions inside
Here is the link to the instructions for your download needs. They were written by Stang94GT about a year ago. I've had them for a while. After talking with Dedicatated5.0 and reading the thread he posted about him rebuilding his S-Trim, we decided that we should post some instructions, along with part#'s that he has posted to provide everyone that wants to try to rebuild their own Vortech Supercharger with the info. to do so. Listed below the link is a few things that Dedicated5.0 felt should be changed, but there was no way to edit the .pdf file. Try this at your own risk, as either myself nor anyone else involved will be held responsible
http://www.iamflip.com/images/supercharger_rebuild (I recommend you save these to your hard drive, because I have a buddy of mine hosting them, and he may make a mistake and move them one day. At least until I get my own website and can host them myself)
Here's the tweek to the instructions that Dedicated5.0 wanted to add:
• When he talks about removing the compressor nut he states that it is a Left Hand Thread. That is correct for the standard-rotation blowers on 5.0s. On the reverse blowers that are on the 4.6 cars it is a regular Right Hand Thread.
• When he talks about using a “cone” to guide the shaft into the seal. That is not a bad idea, but I don’t think that it is really necessary. Using some assembly lube or oil to lube the seal and shaft should to the trick just fine. I’ve never seen a “cone” use to install oil seals before.
• When he talks about installing the compressor wheel he says that using the impact will tighten the bolt and help push it down the rest of the way. I agree, but he should have added that you need to make sure that compressor wheel is seated flush with the case. If it’s not, when you put the volute back on the compressor wheel could scrape against it.
• The seals he used are not the best for the application. The have an exposed metal case and one of them is a single-lip. Those are not the best features for sealing. The seals I used had a rubber covered case and both are a double-lip design. Much better features for sealing.
• The bearings he used for the high-speed side are incorrect. They are standard radial ball bearings. He should have used the high-speed angular contact ABEC 7 bearings that I posted in my thread.
• Lastly, he did not mention this (because he didn’t use the right bearings) that you have to note which way the high-speed bearings are situated on the shaft. They are angular contact style. That means they are designed to handle thrust loads in only one direction. That is why Vortech uses a pair of them facing opposite directions on the shaft, preloaded by the wave washer. That is the typical way that these kinds of bearings are designed to be used.
• The pictures that show the boxes that the bearings came in are reversed. Not that it really maters too much since he used the wrong bearings for the high-speed side anyway.
Here is a parts list.
Provided by Dedicated5.0
These items can be picked up from any industrial distributor (Applied Industrial Technologies, Motion Industries, Kaman, Grainger, etc…) Don't just take the first price they give you. Most of these companies will come down on price pretty easy.
Low Speed Side:
1 seal – Chicago Rawhide 9776
2 bearings – SKF 6205JEM
High Speed Side:
1 seal – Chicago Rawhide 6428
1 matched set bearings – SKF 7003CD/P4ADGA
Fafner 2MM9103WI DUL
Below stated by Dedicated5.0:
I did not replace the o-ring that seals the case. It was in good shape so I soaked it in tranny fluid to swell it a little. Any of the distributors above should be able to match it for you. I would recommend using a brown Viton o-ring instead of the Buna one vortech uses. Viton is a higher temp material that would most likely hold up better than the standard Buna
I want to say thanks to Dedicated5.0 and Stang94GT for this great info. they have provided, and thanks to my buddy oleflippy for hosting the link.
Last edited by NotoriousNotch; 04-12-2006 at 04:16 PM.