Does your engine run the actual Stat temp? - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 36 Old 01-14-2008, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
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Does your engine run the actual Stat temp?

I've always had the stock dummy temp gauge, so I don't know the actual temp number my engine is running. (New one not hooked up yet) I've been debating between a 180 or the stock 192 stat. I was wondering for you guys that run actual temp gauges with numbers does your actual engine temp going down the road or idling generally match your stats rated temp or does it normally run above it or below it, all being based on having a good cooling system. For example, If I use a 180 stat, when I'm idling or going down the road, will my actual engine temp generally be between 180-190 or would it be between 170-180?


Just an old carpenter with a 94 Cobra and a Son with a nasty 85GT! I'm Show and he's Go!!
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post #2 of 36 Old 01-14-2008, 10:37 PM
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I have my gauge tapped into the thermo housing while retaining the stock gauge.
I am running a 180 stat.
Once my enging starts to warm my gauge slowly rises with the temps. When my thermo opens my gauge reads 180 and will fluctuate according to the conditions. For instance, sitting at a light in hot weather it will rise to maybe 190 - 195. In the winter while driving I have seen it drop to around 170 -175 and no lower.
I am running a stock mechanical fan assy, stock H2O pump with a Cobra H2O pulley and a renegade lower.
I have zero cooling issues.
HTH


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post #3 of 36 Old 01-14-2008, 10:40 PM
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Double post

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post #4 of 36 Old 01-15-2008, 06:07 AM
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Mine runs the t'stat temp when there's enough air flowing over the radiator to cool it to that level. When there's not, and the electric fans are moving the air, it runs the temp that the fans are set to control to - 187F. In the winter under cruise I'll see 175F; in the summer in traffic I'll see 190F with the fans on. This is with a 180F t'stat.

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post #5 of 36 Old 01-15-2008, 08:41 AM
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One of the things i've noticed over the years is... your gauge readings will be different depending on where your sender is located. closer to the thermostat, the better..

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post #6 of 36 Old 01-15-2008, 09:47 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys! From what you guys are saying it appears that the engine geberally runs over the stat temp unless it is winter or something, so I'll go ahead and do the 180 instead of the 192. When I switched from my 94 computer to a fox A9L, it came with a fan controller, so I can set the temps that the low and high fan comes on at. Thanks Again!

Just an old carpenter with a 94 Cobra and a Son with a nasty 85GT! I'm Show and he's Go!!
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post #7 of 36 Old 01-15-2008, 09:54 AM
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A thermostat's rated temperature is where it begins to open +/- 2*, it should be fully open by the rated temp + 20*. So if your cooling system is properly sized and operating correctly the temp should hang around somewhere between the rated temp and +20*.

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post #8 of 36 Old 01-15-2008, 01:03 PM
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....and I always check mine in a pot of coolant on the stove top (do this when your wife is NOT home) with a thermometer. You'd be amazed at how many don't start opening until 4, 5, 6F AFTER the set temp. Also Aaron, getting a variable current/speed controller is a MUCH better set up than a relay that has the fan either all on or all off. They only turn the fan as fast as is needed to achieve the desired set point. So they hold MUCH more constant engine coolant temps. Be sure to set the fan 'on' temp at least 5F-7F higher than the t'stat temp or you're likely to have it running all the time.

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post #9 of 36 Old 01-15-2008, 01:54 PM Thread Starter
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....and I always check mine in a pot of coolant on the stove top (do this when your wife is NOT home) with a thermometer. You'd be amazed at how many don't start opening until 4, 5, 6F AFTER the set temp. Also Aaron, getting a variable current/speed controller is a MUCH better set up than a relay that has the fan either all on or all off. They only turn the fan as fast as is needed to achieve the desired set point. So they hold MUCH more constant engine coolant temps. Be sure to set the fan 'on' temp at least 5F-7F higher than the t'stat temp or you're likely to have it running all the time.
Michael, I've seen those controllers you mentioned and they really are awesome. Right now I am just using the factory low/high electric fan and the PIH controller just has the temps to set, but nothing variable about it just on/off. Cooking antifreeze on the stove might get me in trouble. I've done that before with just plain water,but never antifreeze. How can you see it in the coolant to know it's opening. Is coolant that tranparent. Would the temp be different in coolant rather than just water?

Just an old carpenter with a 94 Cobra and a Son with a nasty 85GT! I'm Show and he's Go!!
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post #10 of 36 Old 01-15-2008, 02:10 PM
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Intresting that they don't fully open untill 20 after their rating. My car usually runs at 190ish. I have a 180


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post #11 of 36 Old 01-15-2008, 05:45 PM
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186* with a 180*thermostat. 190-196at lights in the summer.

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post #12 of 36 Old 01-15-2008, 05:58 PM
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I have a 180*, too, and it generally sits at about 190* so I guess enough coolant flow is occurring when the stat is only partially open.

To know when the stat starts to open in the stove-top check you should suspend it by a piece of thread through the valve. When it starts to open it will drop off of the thread.

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post #13 of 36 Old 01-15-2008, 06:17 PM
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Not sure what is in my 87 i jsut bought like a month ago it always runs 130 on the stock gauge i know it has a bigger aluminum rad and e fan any thoughts?
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post #14 of 36 Old 01-15-2008, 08:09 PM
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Not sure what is in my 87 i jsut bought like a month ago it always runs 130 on the stock gauge i know it has a bigger aluminum rad and e fan any thoughts?
130 is too low.....

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post #15 of 36 Old 01-15-2008, 08:13 PM
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My actual water temp (measured with a good Fluke meter) runs very close to the rated thermostat temp. I was impressed.
My stock water temp gage indicates almost full scale, but I don't worry any more since I know the actual temp is fine and the gage is a little high.
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post #16 of 36 Old 01-15-2008, 08:18 PM Thread Starter
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Sounds to me like the 180 stat is just right. Hot enough to keep the computer etc happy and prevent engine wear, but not be crazy hot like the stockers. I saw a graph one time by speed-pro I think, and it showed cylinder wall wear at different engine temps and wear was really low at higher temps, but whe it got down to 160 or so, cylinder wear went up big time and kept getting worse the cooler it went. 180-200 wasn't bad though, but the 200 was actually better as far as wear goes.

Just an old carpenter with a 94 Cobra and a Son with a nasty 85GT! I'm Show and he's Go!!
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post #17 of 36 Old 01-15-2008, 08:19 PM Thread Starter
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If I get a 180 stat, what is the best brand to get? Ford, Napa?

Just an old carpenter with a 94 Cobra and a Son with a nasty 85GT! I'm Show and he's Go!!
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post #18 of 36 Old 01-15-2008, 08:38 PM
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I used a NAPA in mine - my recollection is they had 2 -- one was about $3 and the other about $9 - get the more expensive one. You can easily see the t'stat in coolant - remember, you only have enough in the pan to cover the t'stat. Antifreeze elevates the boiling point -- I always test operation in the same fluid it will actually be operating in. Think about it. Mine is fully open within 4F degrees of 180F. I suspect the cheaper ones have a wider range.

With my set up and an oil cooler with fan also operated off the variable controller, winter or summer, traffic or highway, coolant temps stay in the 175F-190F range, and oil temps stay in the 200F-230F range.

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post #19 of 36 Old 01-15-2008, 08:44 PM
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Keep in mind, if you use on/off controllers, set your off temp at least 10F above t'stat so it cycles, and have 10-15F swing between off/on, and use a 180F t'stat that's fully open at 185F, you will see 205F-210F BEFORE the fan comes on. You can run much tighter temp controls with a variable controller.

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post #20 of 36 Old 01-15-2008, 09:07 PM
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With the SHO fan on the '87, and a 180 T-stat, the car would run dead-on 180 on the highway, and then, in town, the fan came on at 187, drag it down to 182 then kick off.......

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post #21 of 36 Old 01-15-2008, 09:21 PM
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If I get a 180 stat, what is the best brand to get? Ford, Napa?
I'd go with Ford parts.
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post #22 of 36 Old 01-16-2008, 08:24 AM
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Michael
Do you have a recommendation for a variable controller. I have a Spal unit with the low and high setpoints and I'm not happy with it.
thanks

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post #23 of 36 Old 01-16-2008, 09:05 AM
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http://www.dccontrol.com/0820.htm

Model #FK35

Mine has performed flawlessly for years driving both my dual 11" SPAL radiator cooling fans, and a 6" SPAL cooling fan on my oil cooler core.

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post #24 of 36 Old 01-16-2008, 11:41 AM
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Stock t-stat, and I generally run at the advertised temp (per datalogs). Doesn't go much above, doesn't go much below. Aluminum heads really helped it run cooler.

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post #25 of 36 Old 01-16-2008, 12:07 PM
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thanks Michael

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post #26 of 36 Old 01-17-2008, 11:19 AM
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First I bought a Sunpro mechanical water temp gauge and it read 20 degrees low on my 195 stat so I bought an Autometer electric and it reads the same 175 deg. WTF....so then I bought an Autometer mech pressure to match. Too bad I broke the capillary tube. Maybe the stat is hung open???? It was mounted in the stock location...now in the therm housing where is reads a couple degrees hotter but still way to low. These numbers are with the electric fan off cruising down the expressway.

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post #27 of 36 Old 01-17-2008, 11:24 AM
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Sounds like you need a new t-stat.

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post #28 of 36 Old 01-17-2008, 12:21 PM
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yeah I will replace it this weekend. I have an old 180 that checks out in hot water on the stove. It opens at 180 and is completely closed at 175 F. It is a high flow type that worked great in my cobra intake.

The chances of 2 different brand new gauges from different manufacturers measuring the same and both wrong is low.

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post #29 of 36 Old 01-17-2008, 12:43 PM
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My dual SPAL fan w/ Griffin radiator and DC controller w/ 180F thermostat (stove top checked as Michael also suggests) runs typically at 190-195F in stop and go traffic according to the stock temperature sender location. I measure it via PMS-InterACQ - laptop.

I rarely see 200F unless I have on the a/c and am stopped in traffic in the heat of the summer.

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post #30 of 36 Old 01-17-2008, 01:17 PM
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....and I always check mine in a pot of coolant on the stove top (do this when your wife is NOT home)
VERY good advice!,the same goes for when you need to heat up a harmonic balancer prior to install!

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post #31 of 36 Old 01-17-2008, 01:24 PM Thread Starter
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VERY good advice!,the same goes for when you need to heat up a harmonic balancer prior to install!
Back in the day, I painted a set of aluminum valve covers with that black wrinkle paint. The best way to get it to wrinkle correctly is with heat, so I stuck them in the oven to cure them. That little project will get you in trouble with the wife even if she isn't home, because after you open the oven door the first time, the entire house will smell Toxic for the next 2 days & your food will even taste like paint. Don't ask me how I know!

Just an old carpenter with a 94 Cobra and a Son with a nasty 85GT! I'm Show and he's Go!!
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post #32 of 36 Old 01-17-2008, 03:09 PM
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One of my old friends had an old dishwasher in his garage they used for parts washing.

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post #33 of 36 Old 01-17-2008, 07:22 PM
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....yeah, when I finally get around to building a house/garage/studio (wife is a clay artist) -- I'm gonna put used or cheap oven and dishwasher in the garage. My brother one time tried to cure some exhaust manifolds he'd painted with VHT in the oven at home while my parents were on vacation. Mom stepped in the house 4 days later, inhaled once and screamed 'Marc!!!! What car part did you have in the oven????' Dang near killed him....

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post #34 of 36 Old 01-17-2008, 08:14 PM
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My car has a MR Gasket 180 and runs at the perfect temps in the summer and actually gets down around 160 on the interstate. But in the winter its stays WAY cold. I cant figure it out. If it idles for 20 minutes or so it will get up to 180 but not long after getting on the road it drops. On the hwy it was reading 130 or less. This is with the stock gauge. WTF can this be. The thermostat was just put in a few months ago. Where is the sending unit?
BTW I run a Summit 2 core aluminum and a black magic fan.

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post #35 of 36 Old 01-17-2008, 08:23 PM
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Sounds like that Mr. Gasket T-stat isn't closing all the way.

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