To add to the other great "advisors"...
This might give you a better idea of what to do...you can do it in a few hours...just take your time.
Mark all your hoses and connections with the tape and marker to help you put it together later on and it wouldnâ€™t hurt to take a couple miscellaneous pics of the engine to help you arrange those connections better as well. Something to look back on. Go ahead and make sure your fuel pressure is relieved by either having the car sit for a few hours or remove the schrader valve cap and use a small flathead screwdriver to press into the valve and release the pressure. Have a towel handy to catch the fuel that will come out. On 87-95 cars the schrader valve is located on a fuel rail located behind the alternator. Remove your air inlet tube whether it be a cold air intake or the stock plastic air box. Remove the MAF by undoing the connection from it. Begin to remove the throttle body by unbolting it from the 4 studs screwed into the upper intake held on by the 4 matching bolts. Also release the TPS sensor (on top of throttle body) connection along with the throttle linkage that pops off. Unbolt the upper intake (6 bolts I believe) and make sure you get the ones underneath the upper intake plate held onto it by some screws. Prepare for later to possibly replace the bolts or reuse them depending on what intake you are going to use. Before lifting it off completely undo the vacuum hoses from the upper intake so you can bring it up without ripping a line. When you unbolt the upper intake before hand it gives you more hand room play to get those hoses and lines off nicely. Now would be a good time to go ahead and mark you distributor or just remove it if your going to go ahead add the heads and cam. The distributor is held in by one bolt located on the right side of the shaft. Make note of the firing order and where your spark plug wires went. Put a paper towel in the distributor hole so you donâ€™t get any tools or debris in the engine. Now that the upper intake is removed and out of the equation you can go ahead and work on the fuel part of intake. Go ahead and unbolt the 4 bolts that hold the fuel rail onto the lower intake. On the first passenger side head bolt (perspective from front of engine) your fuel rail is held on by a bolt to hold the rail in place. Unbolt it so you can swing the fuel rail out of the way once you remove the rail from the injectors. The injectors will just pop out of your fuel rail and lower intake. Your local parts store will have A/C & Fuel Line Disconnect Tools that will let you disconnect the fuel rail easier but it is up to you and what you have in â€śstock.â€ť Unbolt the thermostat housing, which is held on by two bolts on the front of your lower intake. Go ahead and loosen all the 12 bolts that hold your lower intake on. The lower intake will be a bit hard to get off because it has most likely been sitting on your heads for a while. Pry it off carefully and remove it after you have the hoses/sensors/lines undone from the lower intake. Swing those connections out of the way. Now that both the upper and lower intake are off it would be a good time (since it should be fresh on your mind) to â€śreinstallâ€ť the upper and lower intake provisions onto your new intake like the sensors and provisions for the hoses to slide over and connect too.
Just in case you forgot where some of your intake vacuum lines go Iâ€™ll try to jog the memory a bit with a little bit of a description: If your looking at the front of the engine and you look on the upper intake on the front left of it, that line goes to the charcoal canister. The vacuum line just to the right of it (thicker) goes around to a two way valve on the bottom right side of your upper intake and continues on into the back bottom of the lower intake where your pcv valve is located at. On the back of your upper intake you have a little intake tree that comes out of the back of the upper intake. It has three possible hose connections. The thicker one goes to the firewall vaccum tree where it is labeled as â€śSâ€ť (it will be a little up and to the right of the upper intake on the firewall along with other abbreviations like â€śB/Râ€ť and â€śA/Câ€ťâ€¦but connect it to the â€śSâ€ť. The other two possible vacuum lines are easy. One is red (mine was) and goes to your fuel pressure regulator and the other one goes to your EGR I believe. Hope that helps on the connections. I would suggest getting new EGR spacer and throttle body gaskets while your doing the intake install. Also get a new upper/lower gasket (a new intake should come with it). You will also want some O-rings for your injectors because overtime they can breakdown and leak and they will give you a fresh seal. If your installing new injectors at the same time you wonâ€™t need O-rings because your injectors will have them on already. I lubed mine up with a tiny bit of Vaseline to help them slide in the intake and fuel railing. Your local parts store will carry a â€śA/C-Fuel Line Disconnect Toolâ€ť kit for around $10 bucks or so and can become very handy if you work on your car a lot. It will allow you to disconnect your lower intake fuel rail to make the intake install easier and get one more thing out of your way. You can do it without disconnecting but it is real easy to disconnect it. Make sure you clean the heads off (if they are new heads you donâ€™t need to) real clean and smooth so your intake gasket has a nice surface to adhere to and seal against. Brake or Carb Cleaner along with a razor or gasket scraper would work well. I would stuff your heads ports with paper towels or something similar to keep the scrapings from entering into where the valves and combustion chamber are. Also cover the lifter valley with a towel or more paper towels to keep the shavings out as well and use a shop vacuum to help with clean up. Now if you have new heads the cleaning the head/intake/gasket surface will not be necessary.
I put a nice thick bead of high temp silicone on the block ends (I donâ€™t like using the rubber ends that are supplied with your intake gasketsâ€¦they can slip out and cause a leak) and let it sit for about 10 minutes to "film" over and then set the lower intake on: Before I put the intake on this is what I do so I put a couple dabs of silicone under the FEL-1250 gasket (the gasket I used) and position the gasket over the ports as perfect as possible and then allow those dabs under the gasket to dry (I also put a tad more silicone around the water passages for a little extra support) so it will not move as I lower the intake on. On my gasket I had to trim a little bit of the coolant passages on the gasket because it was protruding into the passageway...To help insure proper intake alignment as it is being dropped down I used my old intake bolts and cut the hex-heads off of them and threaded them into the heads. I used 4 of them and made a rectangular shape out of them to cover â€śall anglesâ€ť when I dropped it downâ€¦once you get the intake down you can then unscrew the studs you made and start to install your new intake bolts (assuming you bought new ones)â€¦I got some new lower intake bolts from Summit which the part number is SUM-G1579HS. I f you didnâ€™t buy new ones you can probably just find some studs to use temporarily.
I slightly torqued the intake down after the "filming" just to get a little "squish" on the silicone and let it sit overnight...the next day I did the final torqueing procedure with the torque numbers (some people go by feel).
A torque wrench is your friend: Go around 18-20lbs for the lower intake bolts and about 10lbs on the upper intakeâ€¦Use the proper torque sequence to tighten the bolts and you will need to go through the torqueing sequence probably 4 or 5 times to get all the play out of the bolts when it squishes the silicone/gasket.
Here is the tightening sequence order in simple terms (looking from front of car):
After installing the intake it would be a good idea to remove the upper intake and retighten the lower bolts again after a few heat cycles (couple days)...they tend to come loose.
Laser Red 1998 Mustang GT - Daily Driver, 5spd, Leather, Mach 460.
Reef Blue '93 LX 5.0 5spd
New 306, AFR 165's, FTI cam, Tmoss Performer Intake, Scorpion 1.6 RR's, 30lb injectors, Pro-M 75mm MAF, FRPP 65mm TB, Kirban AFPR, BBK Longtubes w/ matching H, Flows, 3:73's, Steeda Tri-ax, Mac Cai, Black Magic Fan, Griffin Radiator, 3g Upgrade and more...
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Performance Red 2000 Mustang GT - Mac Catback w/ 3.5in tips, Prochamber, Pro 5.0 shifter, 01 Hood Scoop, White Face Guages and 17x9 Chrome Cobra R's
Last edited by 5spd GT; 03-31-2005 at 11:14 AM.