1993 Cobra intake install, special instructions? - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 25 Old 03-31-2005, 08:33 AM Thread Starter
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1993 Cobra intake install, special instructions?

Getting ready to install a Cobra intake, thought I had read back in the day that there were a few special things that needed to be done?? Wasn't any paper work in the box.


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post #2 of 25 Old 03-31-2005, 08:36 AM
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make sure it says "made in china" on the bottom of the lower


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post #3 of 25 Old 03-31-2005, 08:37 AM Thread Starter
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What would that have to do w/ anything?

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post #4 of 25 Old 03-31-2005, 09:15 AM
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Be sure to mark everything you disconnect with masking tape and a permanent marker - makes reassembly and start up MUCH easier. Don't trust your memory unless you've done a bunch of these.

Drain the coolant of course. Be sure all gasket surfaces are clean before reassembly. Stuff rags/towels in distributor hole and ports/water passages to keep debris/tools/nuts/bolts/washers from falling in. Shop vac out the lifter valley. Buy a new oil trap/screen, grommet and pcv valve. Buy all new vacuum hoses if they're more than 3-4 years old. Same with hoses, belts, t'stat. Buy 6 cheap bolts at the hardware store - 4 the size of the lower bolts; 2 the size of the short upper bolts. Cut the heads off and use them as temporary studs to locate the gaskets while you stab the manifold. This is a BIG help to keep gaskets aligned. Once the manifold is in place, start a few bolts, and then remove your temporary studs and put the bolts in place. Torque the lower to 18-20 ft-lbs. in 3 increments and use the proper tightening pattern - pattern is critical to them staying tight. CHeck this link for the pattern - http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ Torque the upper to only 10-12 ft-lbs. THe Cobra probably doesn't have an egr cooling return port - so you'll either have to drill/tap, or plug your egr cooling line on the hard metal heater core coolant tube.

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post #5 of 25 Old 03-31-2005, 09:45 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Michael, good advice but I'm looking for more of the special things. I can't remember if it was the Cobra or the GT40 that had special instructions for hose routing and such. I have built a few engines so have all the basic stuff down, just not an EFI guy but have done my reading in the past.

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post #6 of 25 Old 03-31-2005, 09:49 AM
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They both have different vacuum routing from stock. Here are some helpful pics "gothp" put together some time ago:


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post #7 of 25 Old 03-31-2005, 11:04 AM
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To add to the other great "advisors"...

This might give you a better idea of what to do...you can do it in a few hours...just take your time.

Mark all your hoses and connections with the tape and marker to help you put it together later on and it wouldn’t hurt to take a couple miscellaneous pics of the engine to help you arrange those connections better as well. Something to look back on. Go ahead and make sure your fuel pressure is relieved by either having the car sit for a few hours or remove the schrader valve cap and use a small flathead screwdriver to press into the valve and release the pressure. Have a towel handy to catch the fuel that will come out. On 87-95 cars the schrader valve is located on a fuel rail located behind the alternator. Remove your air inlet tube whether it be a cold air intake or the stock plastic air box. Remove the MAF by undoing the connection from it. Begin to remove the throttle body by unbolting it from the 4 studs screwed into the upper intake held on by the 4 matching bolts. Also release the TPS sensor (on top of throttle body) connection along with the throttle linkage that pops off. Unbolt the upper intake (6 bolts I believe) and make sure you get the ones underneath the upper intake plate held onto it by some screws. Prepare for later to possibly replace the bolts or reuse them depending on what intake you are going to use. Before lifting it off completely undo the vacuum hoses from the upper intake so you can bring it up without ripping a line. When you unbolt the upper intake before hand it gives you more hand room play to get those hoses and lines off nicely. Now would be a good time to go ahead and mark you distributor or just remove it if your going to go ahead add the heads and cam. The distributor is held in by one bolt located on the right side of the shaft. Make note of the firing order and where your spark plug wires went. Put a paper towel in the distributor hole so you don’t get any tools or debris in the engine. Now that the upper intake is removed and out of the equation you can go ahead and work on the fuel part of intake. Go ahead and unbolt the 4 bolts that hold the fuel rail onto the lower intake. On the first passenger side head bolt (perspective from front of engine) your fuel rail is held on by a bolt to hold the rail in place. Unbolt it so you can swing the fuel rail out of the way once you remove the rail from the injectors. The injectors will just pop out of your fuel rail and lower intake. Your local parts store will have A/C & Fuel Line Disconnect Tools that will let you disconnect the fuel rail easier but it is up to you and what you have in “stock.” Unbolt the thermostat housing, which is held on by two bolts on the front of your lower intake. Go ahead and loosen all the 12 bolts that hold your lower intake on. The lower intake will be a bit hard to get off because it has most likely been sitting on your heads for a while. Pry it off carefully and remove it after you have the hoses/sensors/lines undone from the lower intake. Swing those connections out of the way. Now that both the upper and lower intake are off it would be a good time (since it should be fresh on your mind) to “reinstall” the upper and lower intake provisions onto your new intake like the sensors and provisions for the hoses to slide over and connect too.

Just in case you forgot where some of your intake vacuum lines go I’ll try to jog the memory a bit with a little bit of a description: If your looking at the front of the engine and you look on the upper intake on the front left of it, that line goes to the charcoal canister. The vacuum line just to the right of it (thicker) goes around to a two way valve on the bottom right side of your upper intake and continues on into the back bottom of the lower intake where your pcv valve is located at. On the back of your upper intake you have a little intake tree that comes out of the back of the upper intake. It has three possible hose connections. The thicker one goes to the firewall vaccum tree where it is labeled as “S” (it will be a little up and to the right of the upper intake on the firewall along with other abbreviations like “B/R” and “A/C”…but connect it to the “S”. The other two possible vacuum lines are easy. One is red (mine was) and goes to your fuel pressure regulator and the other one goes to your EGR I believe. Hope that helps on the connections. I would suggest getting new EGR spacer and throttle body gaskets while your doing the intake install. Also get a new upper/lower gasket (a new intake should come with it). You will also want some O-rings for your injectors because overtime they can breakdown and leak and they will give you a fresh seal. If your installing new injectors at the same time you won’t need O-rings because your injectors will have them on already. I lubed mine up with a tiny bit of Vaseline to help them slide in the intake and fuel railing. Your local parts store will carry a “A/C-Fuel Line Disconnect Tool” kit for around $10 bucks or so and can become very handy if you work on your car a lot. It will allow you to disconnect your lower intake fuel rail to make the intake install easier and get one more thing out of your way. You can do it without disconnecting but it is real easy to disconnect it. Make sure you clean the heads off (if they are new heads you don’t need to) real clean and smooth so your intake gasket has a nice surface to adhere to and seal against. Brake or Carb Cleaner along with a razor or gasket scraper would work well. I would stuff your heads ports with paper towels or something similar to keep the scrapings from entering into where the valves and combustion chamber are. Also cover the lifter valley with a towel or more paper towels to keep the shavings out as well and use a shop vacuum to help with clean up. Now if you have new heads the cleaning the head/intake/gasket surface will not be necessary.

I put a nice thick bead of high temp silicone on the block ends (I don’t like using the rubber ends that are supplied with your intake gaskets…they can slip out and cause a leak) and let it sit for about 10 minutes to "film" over and then set the lower intake on: Before I put the intake on this is what I do so I put a couple dabs of silicone under the FEL-1250 gasket (the gasket I used) and position the gasket over the ports as perfect as possible and then allow those dabs under the gasket to dry (I also put a tad more silicone around the water passages for a little extra support) so it will not move as I lower the intake on. On my gasket I had to trim a little bit of the coolant passages on the gasket because it was protruding into the passageway...To help insure proper intake alignment as it is being dropped down I used my old intake bolts and cut the hex-heads off of them and threaded them into the heads. I used 4 of them and made a rectangular shape out of them to cover “all angles” when I dropped it down…once you get the intake down you can then unscrew the studs you made and start to install your new intake bolts (assuming you bought new ones)…I got some new lower intake bolts from Summit which the part number is SUM-G1579HS. I f you didn’t buy new ones you can probably just find some studs to use temporarily.

I slightly torqued the intake down after the "filming" just to get a little "squish" on the silicone and let it sit overnight...the next day I did the final torqueing procedure with the torque numbers (some people go by feel).

A torque wrench is your friend: Go around 18-20lbs for the lower intake bolts and about 10lbs on the upper intake…Use the proper torque sequence to tighten the bolts and you will need to go through the torqueing sequence probably 4 or 5 times to get all the play out of the bolts when it squishes the silicone/gasket.

Here is the tightening sequence order in simple terms (looking from front of car):

7 8
3 2
11 10
9 12
1 4
5 6

After installing the intake it would be a good idea to remove the upper intake and retighten the lower bolts again after a few heat cycles (couple days)...they tend to come loose.

Good Luck!

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post #8 of 25 Old 03-31-2005, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks MFE, thats the info I was after, I thought i remembered there was a special way of doing it. Any idea what the second arrow in the first pic is for? Sure i could have figured it out, but that saves alot of time.

Others; thanks, and great write ups. I've already been down that road to many times to remember.

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post #9 of 25 Old 04-04-2005, 10:03 AM Thread Starter
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MFE, thanks that pic worked great. Only snags i hit were the crappy hoses were a PITA to get on the nipples even using grease, and i had to keep pulling and turning the dizzy to get the TFI to turn enough to get the timing right, it was rubbing the intake.

And yes it said made in China, not sure if the originals were any better or not.

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post #10 of 25 Old 04-04-2005, 10:33 AM
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Did you put new vacuum hoses on it?


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post #11 of 25 Old 04-04-2005, 01:53 PM
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I just did the install along with a new throttle body and I cant get my throttle cable connected without it rubbing the valve cover. So until I figure that one out it is still sitting here waiting for something as little as that. What sucks big time is today is such a beautiful mustang day!

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post #12 of 25 Old 04-04-2005, 06:32 PM
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did you happen to have any trouble with your lower intake not being notched for the ignition box? I guess I am going to have to trim the ignition box so that I can add any timing. Right now it is at 0 so to add anything I am going to have to at least cut it a little.

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post #13 of 25 Old 04-04-2005, 06:40 PM
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is the cobra lower and gt40 lower the exact same. i purchased a lower from a guy who had the gt-40 upper instead of the lower but his lower doesnt have a hole to plug the ACT unit into as my cobra does. it has the temperature sending unit plug though. am im supposed to plug my ACT plug into the hole at the rear of my cobra upper since it is just capped off? need help with this thanks.
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post #14 of 25 Old 04-04-2005, 06:52 PM
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I had just bought a gt-40 lower a few weeks ago and it didn't have the act hole drilled but had the boss/area for it there. I had mine ported by t-moss and he offered to do it for me.
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post #15 of 25 Old 04-04-2005, 08:16 PM
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how much would it have been for him to drill the hole? i am thinking about sending him mines so i can have it ported also.
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post #16 of 25 Old 04-04-2005, 08:37 PM
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Try grinding down a bit of the throttle cable bracket (that is what I had to do) so it would bolt up...

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New 306, AFR 165's, FTI cam, Tmoss Performer Intake, Scorpion 1.6 RR's, 30lb injectors, Pro-M 75mm MAF, FRPP 65mm TB, Kirban AFPR, BBK Longtubes w/ matching H, Flows, 3:73's, Steeda Tri-ax, Mac Cai, Black Magic Fan, Griffin Radiator, 3g Upgrade and more...

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post #17 of 25 Old 04-04-2005, 08:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blk93
how much would it have been for him to drill the hole? i am thinking about sending him mines so i can have it ported also.
you'd have to ask him about that. I just installed the lower he ported and will be testing to see about any changes.
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post #18 of 25 Old 04-05-2005, 08:21 PM
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thanks man. now can anyone tell me why some gt40 lowers have the ACT hole already drilled and some don't?
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post #19 of 25 Old 04-05-2005, 08:43 PM
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The tubular GT40 upper, the Explorer and the Cobra intakes all share the same lower - what you're referring to as the GT40 lower. Taking a bit of a leap here - but those lowers that were originally produced to go with a GT40 tubular (aftermarket for Fox body) or an early (93) Cobra upper probably have the ACT drilled/tapped. Those that came on an Explorer or later Cobra (94/5) don't because those vehicles had the ACT located in the airbox like the SN94/5's. I believe that's the main reason for lowers with and without ACT provisions. The Fox body computers aren't too sensitive to ACT location. I simply moved mine to the elbow upstream of the throttle body rather than trying to drill/tap my 2000 Explorer intake. Works just fine with the A9L computer.

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post #20 of 25 Old 04-05-2005, 11:04 PM
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thanks man. i have a plug in my cobra upper that just has a plug in it. a friend of mine told me that it would work their but i am not to sure. i don't think the wiring will allow it to reach that far. anyway thanks.
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post #21 of 25 Old 04-05-2005, 11:43 PM
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I extended my harness...

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post #22 of 25 Old 04-06-2005, 04:45 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtmustang98
did you happen to have any trouble with your lower intake not being notched for the ignition box? I guess I am going to have to trim the ignition box so that I can add any timing. Right now it is at 0 so to add anything I am going to have to at least cut it a little.
Yes, it only had a little turning movement, I just kept pulling the dizzy up enough to clear the cam gear but still engage the pump drive and turned the rotor a tad until i finally got enough movement to get the timing i wanted. It took 3 trys.

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post #23 of 25 Old 04-06-2005, 04:46 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Yount
Did you put new vacuum hoses on it?
Mine came w/ the hoses in MFE's pic.

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post #24 of 25 Old 04-06-2005, 06:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iwlbcnu
Yes, it only had a little turning movement, I just kept pulling the dizzy up enough to clear the cam gear but still engage the pump drive and turned the rotor a tad until i finally got enough movement to get the timing i wanted. It took 3 trys.


sorry but I dont understand. can you make it clearer exactly what I need to do? Because if I can get by without cutting anything I will. Thanks

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post #25 of 25 Old 04-11-2005, 09:27 AM Thread Starter
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You can turn the dist and set number one any where you want, but when you set it back in the pump drive won't line up. I set the engine at 10 BTDC and made sure the rotor was at number 1. I lifted the dist cap and made a mark at number 1 on the adapter, I turned the dist until it looked like it was where I would have the desired timing range, then lifted the dist just enough to disengage the cam gear but still engage the pump drive and turned the rotor until I could drop the dist back in and have the rotor line back up w/ my mark. HTH

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