1971 block with SEFI issues! What am I missing?? - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 Old 09-04-2019, 11:15 PM Thread Starter
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1971 block with SEFI issues! What am I missing??

Hey everyone! New to the forum but had many foxbodys in my time. All stock blocks and added variety of bolt-ons and am a mechanic by trade now for 15 years but I am at a loss with my latest project. 306 built with cam and trick flow twisted wedge aluminum heads, flat tappet hydraulic lifters and non HO firing order...bought block with heads installed but I added everything around it, intending for it to be a daily I made it fuel injected, Holley Systemax upper and lower, 75mm throttle body, stock distributor, painless engine wiring harness with what I think are correct signal wires swapped to accommodate non HO firing order,swapping 3 with 5 and 4 with 7... (car came bare with no wiring) A9L ECU and a T-5. Full exhaust with shorties and. New sensors (temp,O2,oil pressure,etc...) plugs,wires, cap, rotor, aeromotive fuel pump and adjustable regulator... Anyway....long story short is I fire it up and it runs but shakes like half the cylinders are missing. Reading temps on manifold with lazer temp gun after 20-30seconds I get 230-250° on #1 and #2, #3 doesnt climb close to that for a while and #4 is close to 300°, other bank #5 lingers low around 180-190 and #6,#7 shoot up above 300°quickly, #8 is averaging like #1 and #2 around 250....my main concern is serious misfiring, wojt rev above 2500rpm without breaking up and limiting any further revs, and it moves but no power (in and out of garage) and it idles rough but does idle, however if I stall it it floods, wont restart unless I take fuel pump relay out, clear it and restart it dry....number #3 seems like the biggest problem child so starting there I swapped injectors between #2 and #3,no difference (used,not new, 31lb injectors and MAF sensor purchased from unknown source on craigslist parting out car...&#x1f62c pulling plug wires makes no difference in idle quality, timing has been adjusted up and down from 8-15° and not the issue. Just think I'm missing the big picture here and any ideas please let me know! Old school bottom end with what I thought would be set it and forget it top end but not the case lol.
Thanks in advance for any pointers and any other aspects or testing done that is needed for ideas let me know! Already wrote a book but desperate obviously!

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post #2 of 14 Old 09-05-2019, 07:42 AM
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Are you sure that the cam has the 15426378 firing order? Have you tried the 13726548 firing order?


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post #3 of 14 Old 09-05-2019, 08:07 AM
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YIKES WALL OF WORDS!!


otherwise,
time for a compression check. you didn't install the pistons or heads so could be something wrong in the holes.
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post #4 of 14 Old 09-05-2019, 07:53 PM
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Even though your cam and distributor may be setup for the non-ho firing order, the injector firing sequence is not. You will have to change the eec tune for the different firing order.

Question though: if you changed the cam and everything, why didn’t you just stick some factory roller valvetrain inside?

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422WHP/456Ft/lb. Tuned using QH by Tony @ Tuners Inc.
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post #5 of 14 Old 09-06-2019, 07:07 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice everyone....still have yet to do a complete compression test but will get results of one this weekend, I initially thought engine was an HO firing order and had everything set up in with that in mind, e.g. plug wires,injector wires (labeled by painless out of the box) but confirmed non HO order on crank and cam so that box is checked.
96pushrod I did swap positions of signal wires in order to make the injectors fire in the correct order but that may not have been the right thing to do? This is where I'm in a bit over my head with things and do have a guy 45minutes away who tunes. Maybe best to bring it to him but I just wanted to make sure I wasnt missing something obvious with this setup before I went that route lol. Heads and cam and valve train were already installed when I recieved the motor unfortunately &#x1f644;&#x1f926;&#x200d;&#x2642;&#xfe0f; but lash is ok, checked when I checked the cam firing order
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post #6 of 14 Old 09-06-2019, 04:45 PM
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SO a clearer picture here:

- Non HO engine (15426378)
- injector wiring changed to mate Non HO firing order
- Spark plug wires ARE swapped to non HO

Judging by the way you are saying this, you are not messing with anything in the ECU (non tuning, etc).

1 - 230-250
5 - 180-190
4 - 300
2 - 230-250
6 - 230-250
3 - no number mentioned
7 - 300
8 - 300

You are remembering Passenger front is Cyl 1, Driver front is Cyl 5, right side is 1-2-3-4, left is 5-6-7-8?

What kind of spark plugs are you running? Brand and P/N?
What brand sensors?
WHy are you messing with lash? Is this a solid lifter cam?? If it is hydraulic, there should be no lash noticeable.

78 CJ5 with 86 5.0HO DX3 ecu from 88 MK VII
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post #7 of 14 Old 09-07-2019, 09:22 AM
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fouled spark plugs?

With the cam & stuff, it likely needs tuned. But fix the mechanical issues first (if there are any).

how was the injector wiring swapped? At the EEC or on the engine?
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post #8 of 14 Old 09-09-2019, 07:55 AM Thread Starter
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Correct on the plug wires and injector wiring swapped at ECU for corrected firing order.....signal wires only though. Ground wires for injectors still in original positions but being ground I think that was ok to leave be.
Number 3 cylinder (third one from the front on passengers side) is the biggest problem cylinder, takes minutes to see it even get to 165°F.
Ford racing wires, MSD cap and rotor, used mass air sensor and injectors which I've seen cause issues in the past but not like this....
And lash I set according to comp cams and a few other sources saying to turn crank until exhaust valve just begins to open, set intake valve by tightening rocker until pushrod resists spinning with your fingers, then another 2/3-1/2 a turn tighter and lock it. Rotate crank until intake valve is maxed out open, and set exhaust valve with the same procedure.....I didnt assemble or install heads so I wanted to make sure they weren't left for someone else to adjust before I started it and threw parts everywhere under the valve covers lol. Came without valve covers so I wasnt sure where they left it....hydraulic lifters but flat tappet (non roller &#x1f615; )
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post #9 of 14 Old 09-09-2019, 10:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dougt13399 View Post
Correct on the plug wires and injector wiring swapped at ECU for corrected firing order.....signal wires only though. Ground wires for injectors still in original positions but being ground I think that was ok to leave be.
Ground wires are the signal wires. There's a common +12V to the injectors and then they're fired by the ECU grounding the signal wire.


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post #10 of 14 Old 09-09-2019, 09:05 PM
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I think I would try putting a degree wheel on it and making sure that (#1) cam does not have some bad lobes and (#2) verify that valve timing ( not crank timing) is what it’s supposed to be. Check every cylinders intake and exhaust lift at the same time verify cams firing order.

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post #11 of 14 Old 09-10-2019, 09:37 PM Thread Starter
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Finally putting this one to bed! After some rechecking of wires swapped for the injectors I did find two not secure where I swapped them at the ECU, one completely disconnected, first problem found thanks to some suggestions here. Then, not trusting my valve adjustment process I removed upper intake and found drivers side was all sorts of off...some crazy procedure I found prior to installing motor was all wrong, exhaust rockers especially were so loose I dont want to begin to give details but once I buttoned that up correctly and secured injector wiring, started, and night and day difference! So simple but ruling things out I had already checked was my downfall.....that,and now tweaking fuel pressure at regulator (new Aeromotive 13103) when I removed the vacuum line to it fuel dumped out, have to look into a rebuild kit for it. But she runs 100% better, and on to the next set of things to button this thing up and drive her finally! Thanks for all the suggestions and support, I'll be on here giving my 2 cents where I think I can!
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post #12 of 14 Old 09-10-2019, 10:01 PM
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take that reg, and throw it in the trash

get yourself a stock non adjustable, and never worry about fuel pressure again

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #13 of 14 Old 09-11-2019, 06:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indy2000 View Post
take that reg, and throw it in the trash

get yourself a stock non adjustable, and never worry about fuel pressure again
If you have big rails and lines, I understand why you need to go aftermarket for a regulator but don't understand why people put aftermarket regulators on stock fuel rails. The stock stuff is reliable and does its job. Just throwing money away on anything else.

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post #14 of 14 Old 09-11-2019, 08:12 PM
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if you read some of the ads that the aftermarket do.........you will see why

'cold air intakes' that have a filter exposed in the engine bay are classic

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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