OK, tore it down, confirmed the E7-PA heads are on it. I forgot that I must have already posed about this once before, as I found this
thread searching for my most recent one here.
Do I need to change valve springs like mentioned in the other? I have a set of E7 that were in a Mustang at Pullapart, and the springs look the same as the truck ones.
I was getting a new timing chain set while it is apart, no idea how many miles are on it but I will say there are obvious crosshatch marks still in the cylinders with no large ridge around the top. The timing set has the 3 keyways - 0*, +4*, -4* for cam timing. Advancing is supposed to lower the torque curve and add throttle response, at the risk of valve clearance. Would this be an issue with a stock cam? Would it be worth it? Once this engine is in, I am not pulling it out again unless something catastrophic happens, so changing cam timing is not going to happen once it is together. Remember, this is for a CJ5 that sees more trailer pulling/workhorse type use than racing...
Also, is there much difference in the timing covers/water pumps/pulleys between the truck and Mustang? I ask because I want to us the truck crank and waterpump pulleys due to the larger crank pulley on the truck engine. This would help with Alternator charging output at lower RPMs. It is like 1/4" or so larger diameter.
Being a roller block, it would be a 50oz balance too, correct?
I have been out of "custom" engine building for about 20 years or so, and then they were Chevy Small blocks for my 85 Cutlass. I am trying to remember and relearn a lot here in a short time, so I thank you all for your patience and time!
A couple links I had found about the cam timing: