DCC Fan Controller - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 44 Old 05-12-2019, 03:57 PM Thread Starter
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DCC Fan Controller

Iím running the old FK35 fan controller and have had it installed for years already on my 1990 fox body. The car rarely gets driven but yesterday I decided to take it out for a cruise and while driving with the a/c I noticed the temp being around 210-220 on the freeway. When I was getting close to home in stop and go traffic I turned the a/c off and noticed the temps climbing all the way up to 240 by the time I pulled in the driveway. Before I shut off the car I checked the fans to see if they were running which they should have been running at max speed and they looked to be running very slow. I shut the car off and let it cool down.

Today I went to check it and turned the car on and with the a/c on the fans run normal. I turned the a/c off, the fans turn off and I let the car warm up and it go to 200 degrees and the fans still hadnít turned on. Shouldnít they have turned on around 180 degrees? Is there anyway to test the controller to make sure itís actually working correctly? Iím running the dual Spal fans.

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post #2 of 44 Old 05-12-2019, 05:57 PM
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I'd check the sensor. sounds like it might be going flaky

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post #3 of 44 Old 05-12-2019, 06:41 PM
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I have had to replace the sensor on one of my old controllers. They can go bad, mine was over ten years old when it failed.

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post #4 of 44 Old 05-12-2019, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
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Iíll give them a call and see if I can purchase a new sensor. Thanks fellas.
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post #5 of 44 Old 05-12-2019, 09:09 PM
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Have a look and make sure the sensor is still pushed in to the rad. Mine came out once. Now I use a small dab of rev when inserting.

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post #6 of 44 Old 05-13-2019, 03:19 PM Thread Starter
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I boiled some water and placed the temp sensor in it and the fan came on so I now know itís not the controller or temp sensor. I turned the car on again and allowed it to warm up, got up to 210 and the fan still didnít kick on. I check the temp at the lower radiator where the sensor is plugged in with my infrared thermometer and it was showing about 150 degrees. Is that normal if the car is at 210 degrees? How is the sensor suppose to kick the fans on at 180 degrees if where the sensor is inserted is showing less than 180? Possible that the t-stat is not opening?
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post #7 of 44 Old 05-13-2019, 04:38 PM
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post #8 of 44 Old 05-13-2019, 05:23 PM
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I'd move the sensor, it's hotter at the top where the flow comes in at the upper hose. You can adjust the point that it comes on, with the controller, the dip switch pin insert devices. I have mine set to about 180* and it works there, sensor near the top. The thermostat should open at some point before the fan is coming on, so the two aren't conflicting.
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post #9 of 44 Old 05-13-2019, 05:54 PM Thread Starter
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I thought about moving the sensor but was just following the directions from DCC which states to mount it at the bottom near the lower hose.
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post #10 of 44 Old 05-13-2019, 06:00 PM
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I agree but I also recall reading about moving it up back when I did mine, in about 2008. I didn't think of using RTV either, that's a good idea too.


Don
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98 Explorer Limited project to add 4WD, XP8 parts, KB blower, paint, 337.
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post #11 of 44 Old 05-13-2019, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
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So I just turned the car on again and let it warm up to check the temps at the radiator fins. With the car off I was getting readings at 84 degrees on the top and 81 degrees at the bottom on both the passenger and drivers side. As the car was on and warming up the temps started to rise but there was always a big difference between the top and bottom. I checked again when the car reached 190 degrees and the fans still not turning on and on the drivers side I got 145 on the top and 105 on the bottom. Passenger side was 135 at the top and 90 on the bottom. Thatís a 40-45 degrees difference from top and bottom. Both upper and lower radiator hoses were about the same temps according tot he infrared thermometer and to the touch.

Should the radiator be around the same temps at all spots?
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post #12 of 44 Old 05-13-2019, 09:31 PM
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I have not done the testing you have, but here is what I would expect to see:

1. with thermostat closed, or mostly closed: Rad temp very close to the same everywhere
2, with thermostat open, the highest temp would be at at the inlet to the rad, and the lowest temp at the outlet. Again, this depends on how much air flow thru the rad cooling the coolant. Less air flow would mean the temps would be closer to the same at top and bottom.

With the temps you are seeing on the rad, is that with the motor warmed right up? If the thermostat is open, you should see 180+ at the rad inlet. If your not seeing this, I have to wonder if you have a stuck thermostat?

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post #13 of 44 Old 05-14-2019, 03:25 AM
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Is your thermostat opening ?
Run it with the radiator cap off to verify flow if you are not sure.
U can also check it by feel on the upper hose as well.
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post #14 of 44 Old 05-14-2019, 06:37 AM Thread Starter
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I honestly do not know for sure in my T-Stat is opening. Is there a way to check it while it's still on the car? Can't check it by feel on the radiator hose due to I'm running a supercharger and it uses the stainless pipe in the middle of both connections. I might just pull it out and drop it in boiling water to see if it's opening. I checked these temps while the car was sitting in the garage allowing it to run for a few mins. Once the temp on the car showed 190-200 degrees is when I was getting those readings. The inlet which I believe is the bottom hose was only showing around 105 degrees while the outlet top of the radiator hose was showing around 135 degrees. Shouldn't the temp around the inlet at the bottom of the radiator be much hotter if the engine temps are around 200 degrees? Also why would the temp of the radiator be much lower at the inlet side compared to the outlet side if the T-Stat is stuck closed? Wouldn't that mean that the coolant is just recirculating through the engine and not going through the radiator? I'm running a mishimoto aluminum radiator. Possible that the lower radiator has lots of deposits built up in there? All of this was with the A/C off and no fans running and with about 10 mins or less of engine run time.

For some reason my radiator is not getting hot enough for the temp sensor to kick the fans on even after the car has reached over 200 degrees. It's suppose to kick them on at around 180.

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306, typhoon intake, E303, stock heads, 1.6 FMS R.R., 70 T.B., 80mm pmas, 42lb injectors, 255 in-tank fuel pump, adj. billet regulator, MSD dist., coil & 6A box, BBK shorties, o/r x-pipe, spintech mufflers dumped, T-5, 3.55's, e-fan, b&m pro ripper, S-Trim, 396.37hp/398.06trq.
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post #15 of 44 Old 05-14-2019, 06:47 AM
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If this is a fox system the inlet is the top hose (should be hottest coolant) the outlet is the bottom hose (should be cooler than inlet)
Coolant in these systems flows down the radiator from top to bottom while being cooled.
Is your temp. gauge accurate?
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post #16 of 44 Old 05-14-2019, 09:15 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steel1 View Post
If this is a fox system the inlet is the top hose (should be hottest coolant) the outlet is the bottom hose (should be cooler than inlet)
Coolant in these systems flows down the radiator from top to bottom while being cooled.
Is your temp. gauge accurate?
Yeah it's a fox body system. Thanks I was under the impression that it flowed the opposite way and that the inlet was at the bottom and that is why the temp sensor calls to be installed down there. I do believe that the temp gauge which is mechanical with a autometer gauge is accurate because when they car got up to 240 degrees I heard boiling noise in the radiator. I think I'm going to pull the T-Stat out today and check to make sure it's actually opening in boiling water.

1990 Mustang GT
306, typhoon intake, E303, stock heads, 1.6 FMS R.R., 70 T.B., 80mm pmas, 42lb injectors, 255 in-tank fuel pump, adj. billet regulator, MSD dist., coil & 6A box, BBK shorties, o/r x-pipe, spintech mufflers dumped, T-5, 3.55's, e-fan, b&m pro ripper, S-Trim, 396.37hp/398.06trq.
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post #17 of 44 Old 05-14-2019, 10:29 AM
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I believe I would replace the thermostat, they aren't expensive and they can fail at any time, used or almost new. For the trouble it is to change one and not have it leak, so you avoid doing that job, if I had a spare I'd use that.

The top hose(right side) is where the hot coolant comes out. The driver side is the cooler flow into the engine, and there was often a spring inside the hose to help it from collapsing.

The side to side radiators should have kind of similar temperatures along each side tank, so the passenger side tank should be hotter than the driver side tank. It's going to vary of course along the distance, and remember heat rises, so it naturally will be cooler nearer to the bottom.

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post #18 of 44 Old 05-14-2019, 11:35 AM
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My guess is the bottom tubes of the radiator are restricted and not flowing like they should. You could try removing the radiator and back flushing it to see what comes out if anything.

93 Mustang Coupe, Turbocharged Dart 331, 4R70W, Moser 9in, Haltech, Flexfuel
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post #19 of 44 Old 05-14-2019, 12:41 PM Thread Starter
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I plan on draining the coolant today and removing the T-Stat to check it out. I'll probably replace the lower hose while I'm there and possibly remove the radiator. How exactly do you back flush it out?

1990 Mustang GT
306, typhoon intake, E303, stock heads, 1.6 FMS R.R., 70 T.B., 80mm pmas, 42lb injectors, 255 in-tank fuel pump, adj. billet regulator, MSD dist., coil & 6A box, BBK shorties, o/r x-pipe, spintech mufflers dumped, T-5, 3.55's, e-fan, b&m pro ripper, S-Trim, 396.37hp/398.06trq.
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post #20 of 44 Old 05-14-2019, 12:58 PM
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If the tstat is stuck closed,the temp gauge on the dash is gonna continue climbing and since the coolant inside the radiator is gonna remain confined to the radiator for an extended amount of time,due to the stuck closed tstat,the coolant temp is gonna continue to drop inside the radiator since it'll continue to flow through the tubes and be cooled by airflow through the fins from vehicle movement alone and from the fans,when youve got the ac on.So the cooling fans are probably not coming on because the temp of the coolant inside the radiator is remaining too low to even trigger them to turn on.If you let the engine run for 15 minutes and the temp gauge reads 190+į then you grab ahold of the upper radiator hose and its cool or luke warm,instead of really hot,thats pretty much a verification that the tstat is stuck closed.
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post #21 of 44 Old 05-14-2019, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
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There is only a small area of radiator tube that I can grab which is close to the inlet due to the metal pipe that is installed because of the Vortech supercharger. I did grab it and it was hot, felt the same temp as the lower radiator hose. I'm starting to think that the radiator itself is full of deposits causing a restricted flow. Can I disconnect both the upper and lower hoses from the radiator and stick the garden hose in one end to try and flush it out?

1990 Mustang GT
306, typhoon intake, E303, stock heads, 1.6 FMS R.R., 70 T.B., 80mm pmas, 42lb injectors, 255 in-tank fuel pump, adj. billet regulator, MSD dist., coil & 6A box, BBK shorties, o/r x-pipe, spintech mufflers dumped, T-5, 3.55's, e-fan, b&m pro ripper, S-Trim, 396.37hp/398.06trq.
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post #22 of 44 Old 05-14-2019, 03:00 PM
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Yes, but drain the radiator to watch for any debris. See what the coolant is like at the bottom as it drains. If the coolant doesn't show material in it, the radiator might be just fine.

Don
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98 Explorer Limited project to add 4WD, XP8 parts, KB blower, paint, 337.
99 Limited mail vehicle, SOHC 4WD, later 306/4R70W swap. 1998 Mountaineer spare. 72 Ranchero 351 Clevor project.
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post #23 of 44 Old 05-14-2019, 06:01 PM
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Take it out and turn it on end with the outlet at the top. Take a hose and put water in the outlet and flush it backwards from the regular flow direction.

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post #24 of 44 Old 05-14-2019, 07:24 PM
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Try jumping the yellow wire to the 12v positive input....that's if you left it deconnected. That might solve your problem. I've been there.

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post #25 of 44 Old 05-14-2019, 09:39 PM Thread Starter
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Got finished draining the coolant and removing the t-stat. I checked the t-stat in boiling water and it worked. It was a 160 degree one so went and purchased a 180 one, tested it and it worked as well. I installed the 180 one. I ran water through the radiator until clear water came out. Put everything back together and the fans still didnít kick on. So not sure what the deal is. If I turn the a/c on then the fans work but as soon as I turn off the a/c they stop working. I did order a replacement temp sensor from Brian and now waiting for it to arrive. If that still doesnít fix it then Iím not sure what else to do other than replace the radiator and see what happens.
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post #26 of 44 Old 05-14-2019, 09:43 PM
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That might be an issue with the controller or how it's wired. I think it's time to double check the controller wiring and connections etc. Ask Brian if it looks to all be right.

Don
92 Mark VII LSC SE - soon OBDII and 4R70, GTC kit and 347, custom paint.
98 Explorer Limited project to add 4WD, XP8 parts, KB blower, paint, 337.
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post #27 of 44 Old Yesterday, 06:18 AM Thread Starter
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I honestly don't think it's the controller since it turns on when the A/C is on and even after I put the temp sensor in boiling water the fans came on. Has something to do with my cooling system to where the radiator is not getting as hot as the engine. I've been emailing with Brian about it and he's been great offering me his advice.

He had asked me to check the temp at the intake near the t-stat housing when the engine got warmed up to make sure the engine gauge is accurate which I did. He also said that I should be reading within a couple of degrees on the radiator of what I'm reading on the engine if the t-stat is open. He said that even if the bottom is clogged, the cold side tank should still read that. If not, there is probably still air in the system. With the IR thermometer and the engine warmed up to about 200-210 I was reading about 190-195 on the intake right behind the t-stat housing and around 160 at the top of the radiator near the top hose. I even moved the temp sensor near the top hose since it should be hotter than the rest but it didn't get hot enough to kick on the fans even after the car got over 210 degrees.

So I'm going to try again today and see if I can get air out of the system. Not real sure if I am doing it correctly. Does the heater have to be on with air actually coming out of the vent or do I just move the temp knob from cold to hot? How long should it take to get all the air out of the system?

1990 Mustang GT
306, typhoon intake, E303, stock heads, 1.6 FMS R.R., 70 T.B., 80mm pmas, 42lb injectors, 255 in-tank fuel pump, adj. billet regulator, MSD dist., coil & 6A box, BBK shorties, o/r x-pipe, spintech mufflers dumped, T-5, 3.55's, e-fan, b&m pro ripper, S-Trim, 396.37hp/398.06trq.
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post #28 of 44 Old Yesterday, 07:35 AM
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Be sure the heater control valve is opening, in the hose to the heater core, with the vacuum line to it. That HCV you can easily operate by hand to move the valve open or closed. That needs to be opening to allow coolant(and air) to circulate. Getting air out of these is relatively easy compared to lots of newer cars. Just normal functioning and a short time of driving will do it. As said you would normally squeeze the upper hose and feel either solid water resistance, or an air pocket. Normally when the air is out, the overflow bottle will change level very little, and opening the radiator cap will show no air at the cap.

Don
92 Mark VII LSC SE - soon OBDII and 4R70, GTC kit and 347, custom paint.
98 Explorer Limited project to add 4WD, XP8 parts, KB blower, paint, 337.
99 Limited mail vehicle, SOHC 4WD, later 306/4R70W swap. 1998 Mountaineer spare. 72 Ranchero 351 Clevor project.
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post #29 of 44 Old Yesterday, 09:14 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDW6212R View Post
Be sure the heater control valve is opening, in the hose to the heater core, with the vacuum line to it. That HCV you can easily operate by hand to move the valve open or closed. That needs to be opening to allow coolant(and air) to circulate. Getting air out of these is relatively easy compared to lots of newer cars. Just normal functioning and a short time of driving will do it. As said you would normally squeeze the upper hose and feel either solid water resistance, or an air pocket. Normally when the air is out, the overflow bottle will change level very little, and opening the radiator cap will show no air at the cap.
If the HCV is not opening will I get heat out of the vents with the heater on and fan on high? Also I have a aluminum overflow tank/bottle. The stock one has a level to add coolant for cold and as of right now I have not added any coolant to mine. Is that a problem? If so how much so I add in there since there is no level?

1990 Mustang GT
306, typhoon intake, E303, stock heads, 1.6 FMS R.R., 70 T.B., 80mm pmas, 42lb injectors, 255 in-tank fuel pump, adj. billet regulator, MSD dist., coil & 6A box, BBK shorties, o/r x-pipe, spintech mufflers dumped, T-5, 3.55's, e-fan, b&m pro ripper, S-Trim, 396.37hp/398.06trq.
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post #30 of 44 Old Yesterday, 09:29 AM
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90 GT Mustang doesn't have a heater control valve. I still think the radiator has restricted tubes.

93 Mustang Coupe, Turbocharged Dart 331, 4R70W, Moser 9in, Haltech, Flexfuel
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post #31 of 44 Old Yesterday, 09:29 AM
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Not having to add coolant does suggest the air is not all getting out. The controls of the heater control the HCV, you should be able to easily verify it works by watching it while idling, and moving the temp knob to hot.

How old is the radiator cap? Those are reliable but do fail and all that does is make it not open or close properly. The symptom would be air in the radiator, and/or hotter running engine more likely to overheat. I had one die after two years and maybe 5000 miles of driving. If you aren't sure of the cap's functioning, buy a new one, a good brand. The newer one I had die was a Motorcraft stock 16lb unit I got from my dealer.

Don
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98 Explorer Limited project to add 4WD, XP8 parts, KB blower, paint, 337.
99 Limited mail vehicle, SOHC 4WD, later 306/4R70W swap. 1998 Mountaineer spare. 72 Ranchero 351 Clevor project.
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post #32 of 44 Old Yesterday, 10:17 AM
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the rad cap failure was most likely due to contamination, silicone, corrosion, deposits, etc...

there is not much in a rad cap to go wrong, spring and orifices

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #33 of 44 Old Yesterday, 11:45 AM Thread Starter
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Does the aftermarket overflow tube I have installed have to be filled with some coolant prior to getting the air out? Not sure is that makes a difference or not. If I can locate a good quality radiator cap locally I will give it a try and see if anything changes. I took a look into the radiator as best as I could when it was empty and it looked good. I did see some build up at the very top only about 2 inches or so but nothing covering the tubes on the sides.

1990 Mustang GT
306, typhoon intake, E303, stock heads, 1.6 FMS R.R., 70 T.B., 80mm pmas, 42lb injectors, 255 in-tank fuel pump, adj. billet regulator, MSD dist., coil & 6A box, BBK shorties, o/r x-pipe, spintech mufflers dumped, T-5, 3.55's, e-fan, b&m pro ripper, S-Trim, 396.37hp/398.06trq.
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post #34 of 44 Old Yesterday, 12:13 PM
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The overflow tube doesn't have to be filled, but it cannot have any possible leaks to the outside, which would suck in air that would go back into the radiator. The bottle has to have enough in it so when the cap pulls(contracting fluid) back in, it has coolant at the bottom/hose inlet.

Any debris that can get to the cap, can stop the cap from sealing completely.

Don
92 Mark VII LSC SE - soon OBDII and 4R70, GTC kit and 347, custom paint.
98 Explorer Limited project to add 4WD, XP8 parts, KB blower, paint, 337.
99 Limited mail vehicle, SOHC 4WD, later 306/4R70W swap. 1998 Mountaineer spare. 72 Ranchero 351 Clevor project.
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post #35 of 44 Old Yesterday, 01:10 PM Thread Starter
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There are two different tubes hanging out the bottom of my overflow tank. One is attached to a long tube inside all the way up about 3/4 to the top and the other has no tube inside. I'm assuming that the radiator overflow hose should be attached to the one without the tube inside the tank?

1990 Mustang GT
306, typhoon intake, E303, stock heads, 1.6 FMS R.R., 70 T.B., 80mm pmas, 42lb injectors, 255 in-tank fuel pump, adj. billet regulator, MSD dist., coil & 6A box, BBK shorties, o/r x-pipe, spintech mufflers dumped, T-5, 3.55's, e-fan, b&m pro ripper, S-Trim, 396.37hp/398.06trq.
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