Explorer intake - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 33 Old 04-22-2019, 09:51 PM Thread Starter
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Explorer intake

Just bought an Explorer upper and lower and am cleaning it up for an upcoming engine build. I have a couple questions.
I took a wire wheel and some stripper to the upper. I was going to repaint it but i really like the way ot looks bare. Iím far from done but was thinking I might just polish it up and spray some clear coat on it to keep it from tarnishing. Good idea?

Any other suggestions or tips? Were these intake painted from the factory or were they bare? I currently have the stock HO manifold on the car and when I did the build a few years back I just cleaned it up and painted it aluminum cast coat. Itís held up pretty well.

The vacuum tubes on the upper....can these be removed for cleaning/polishing? They are totally in my way for cleaning up the underside, and if they can be removed then possobly I could replace the crazy shaped front tube for a shorter one for my purge cannister.

And finally, could someone measure the total height of their stock HO manifold for me? I had to shave the top of my lower HO for hood clearance (Miata conversion). I need to calculate how much I need to shave off this new setup. It has to fit under the stock hood.

Thanks yíall.


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post #2 of 33 Old 04-23-2019, 12:01 PM
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Where are you located? I have an Explorer upper that I paid to be powder coated, and it's closer to "chrome" than the silver I was after. I spent a lot of time grinding and filing away the casting lines/marks, and I removed the mount/protrusion that holds the throttle cables. So mine looks very good, but it's not what I had in mind for my newest plan for it. I'm aiming for an OEM grey or similar grey, and was going to paint over this if no better idea comes up.


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post #3 of 33 Old 04-23-2019, 03:20 PM
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Leave the upper bare, natural finish, that chrome stuff is retarded, chrome is for harleys and hot rods which are both lame. While you have it apart send the lower to TMOSS to get ported.
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post #4 of 33 Old 04-23-2019, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
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Ya it's going to Tom once the machining is done. Still looking for answers on those questions if anyone has ideas.
Thanks.

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post #5 of 33 Old 04-23-2019, 05:45 PM
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I can try to answer 3. Yes, they are factory painted. Yes, you will need to clear coat or paint or they will oxidize quickly and look like crap. AFAIK all the fittings can be removed since they're threaded in, but you have the intake so this should be obvious. (edit: looks like some are threaded some are pressed). Can't help you with height.

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post #6 of 33 Old 04-23-2019, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
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Cool, thanks for the info. I don't see obvious signs of the tubes being threaded on this one but maybe I'll try putting some vice grips on one and see. If they're pressed in maybe heating them up would expand the holes enough to pop them out.
Thanks.

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post #7 of 33 Old 04-23-2019, 07:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MX8 View Post
Cool, thanks for the info. I don't see obvious signs of the tubes being threaded on this one but maybe I'll try putting some vice grips on one and see. If they're pressed in maybe heating them up would expand the holes enough to pop them out.
Thanks.
Yeah, I just looked at some pics and there's only one threaded, but looks like only on the EGR upper. Same on stock fox upper which was what I was remembering (threaded T fitting) The rest, which would be the ones in your way, look to be pressed in.

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post #8 of 33 Old 04-23-2019, 09:32 PM
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Use a propane torch to heat the manifold and vise grips on the tubes. Drill and tap for plugs or fittings.
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95 GTS aode, jmod, 410 frpp, 31 spline diff, moser 31 spine, alum d/s, cobra intake, 1.7 r/r, pioneer sfi balancer, bbk ceramic shorties.
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post #9 of 33 Old 04-24-2019, 12:21 PM
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you only need to use heat to remove the press ins if you are going to re-use them. you can do it cold too if you are careful not to crush the tube. heating make re-insertion easier. use a grinding wheel to champfer the tube end, then tap it into the hole just far enough to hold - heat the upper and tap the tube back in with a small hammer.

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post #10 of 33 Old 04-24-2019, 12:32 PM
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I just recently did the seals on my intake and while it was off painted it.

I have a stock 5.0 intake though so it may be different, but I just sanded around the tubes and then taped them off.

Turned out really nice.

I used engine enamel on it that was pretty dead-on for the factory color... turned out great

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post #11 of 33 Old 04-24-2019, 02:06 PM
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I used aircraft stripper on my stock upper. Took a few applications but minimal elbow grease. Then I taped all the lines underneath and painted it.

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post #12 of 33 Old 04-25-2019, 12:48 PM
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I used Citristrip to peel the old paint off my intake. It's slower than aircraft stripper, but i had time, and it allowed me to do it in my basement slop sink. I basically rubbed the manifold down with citristrip, bagged it in a trash bag (to keep it moist) and let it sit a day or two.

Before i began, i pulled ALL of the vac fittings out of the manifold. My plan was to drill and tap new fittings based on what I needed.

After a day, it looked like this. I scrubbed it down, and repeated one more time



Then, i chopped off the little nub on the plenum, and started sanding it down with a flap disk to remove a lot of the casting blemishes




Pulled out all the vac fittings and drilled and tapped new fittings for what i needed (brass fittings have been replaced with stainless)



Cleaned up manifold with casting mold lines removed after priming


Also restored the intake plaque


Completed product. Duplicolor Cast Coat paint.



I also had the lower ported by Tmoss's son. A 75MM EGR spacer and converted 65MM Explorer TB are also part of the intake. Probably more time and money into an explorer intake than most people would bother with. I wanted the stock look. It's been sitting on my shelf for over a year now. I have a 1993 cobra intake on the car, so when i pull the engine out this fall to rebuild, this will finally go on the car.
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post #13 of 33 Old 04-25-2019, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
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Fantastic. Thanks for the great info all.

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post #14 of 33 Old 04-26-2019, 09:09 AM
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I got a measurement for the oem upper and lower intake.I placed a level on top of each piece where I felt each intakes tallest point was then I used a square and measured up to the level on each intake.Im terrible with a tape measure/ square so use the pics for reference please.
For the upper,I got one mark past the 5.5 mark.
For the lower,I got 4.5
So its a little over 10" for the height with both intakes combined.
P.S.- Im not sure why the pics are displayed in a sideways/landscape view??They're in portrait view on my phone,otherwise I would have edited and rotated them to portrait view.Just turn the phone sideways I guess to view.
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post #15 of 33 Old 04-26-2019, 09:18 AM
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Same as the stock HO intake - 10.5"

Tom Moss
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post #16 of 33 Old 04-26-2019, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmoss View Post
Same as the stock HO intake - 10.5"
So my measurement total is off by about .25 or 1/4".Yours is 10.5 & mine was 10.25"
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post #17 of 33 Old 04-26-2019, 03:29 PM
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close enough to knpw it will work

Tom Moss
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post #18 of 33 Old 04-26-2019, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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Awesome. Thank you both for those measurements. It helps me a lot since my car is still in storage.
Cheers.

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post #19 of 33 Old 05-11-2019, 11:36 PM Thread Starter
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I found a shop that will blast and powdercoat my upper and lower for $100. Thatís cheaper than buying the paint stripper and the paints, and I donít have to do the grunt work.
I do have more questions about the vacuum fittings. I see LMR sells the vacuum branch that feeds the egr, for and firewall vacuum tree. Does anyone sell the short front facing tube? The one on my explorer upper is way long and has a weird upward angle that wonít look right in my engine bay. Thanks.

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post #20 of 33 Old 05-13-2019, 03:47 PM
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Which fitting are you talking about in the picture below and on which intake?? EGR or Non EGR??
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post #21 of 33 Old 05-13-2019, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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Mine is the same as the EGR one pictured. I was told by a Mustang expert today that I could simply cut the forward facing one shorter and flare it- itís for the evap cannister. The rear ones- the little one is for FPR, and larger one is vacuum source for the plastic vacuum tree that a Mustang would normally have. The tree provides vacuum for brake booster and egr only (for my application). Iím undecided at this point whether to replace the single large vacuum tube with the 3 branch tube from LMR, or simply take the easy way and add the plastic vacuum tree. Just trying to keep the engine bay clean.
Also, in that picture, what is the 90* tube hanging off the plenum supposed to hook up to?

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post #22 of 33 Old 05-13-2019, 09:04 PM
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Nothing. Pull it, tap the hole and install a plug.

As for the remaining ports, pull the tube, drill tap and install these to suit
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post #23 of 33 Old 05-13-2019, 09:07 PM
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Quote:
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Nothing. Pull it, tap the hole and install a plug.

As for the remaining ports, pull the tube, drill tap and install these to suit

Those are nice, SS, and Push-lok ends. The tough hoses made for them won't come off without cutting the hose across the barbs.

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post #24 of 33 Old 05-13-2019, 09:52 PM
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That's can be a positive or negative depending on how you view it.

For me, vacuum line is cheap. I'll gladly cut them if I have to pull the intake off vs dealing with a line loosening up and a vac leak

Mike
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post #25 of 33 Old 05-13-2019, 10:33 PM
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Ditto, the one vacuum leak I've had in a hose was right at the connection under the upper intake, the big hose there at the middle. It was the last hose I checked, because it was the hardest to reach there, to undo the clamp. But the problem was the heat affect on the rubber, not the connection. It cracked right where the large bulge is on the factory fitting. Pulling on the hose likely created the leak to begin with, during some other activity. I had changed injectors at one point, that's the only thing I did prior to that leak, about a year before noticing an odd idle.

Install highest quality hoses etc, that's the best advice I think of.

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98 Explorer Limited project to add 4WD, XP8 parts, KB blower, paint, 337.
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post #26 of 33 Old 05-14-2019, 04:24 PM Thread Starter
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Cool. While I'm in research and parts gathering mode, what are you guys using for the EGR coolant fitting that gets installed in the lower manifold. Mine doesn't have that, and I want to run a proper EGR.

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post #27 of 33 Old 05-14-2019, 05:10 PM
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SAme type of fitting.

3/8" npt into the manifold and a hose barb fitting that matches the size hose you are using with ahose clamp

McMaster-Carr has all these fittings

Mike
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post #28 of 33 Old 05-15-2019, 11:38 PM Thread Starter
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Great. Thanks for the info. Very helpful.

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post #29 of 33 Old 05-16-2019, 11:33 PM
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The egr spacer uses two hoses.A coolant return hose and a coolant supply hose too.Weve talked about the return hose and what to do for it,so now lets talk about the supply hose,if you're gonna be using the egr spacer and egr valve.For the supply hose,the oem barb was part of the metal heater pipe assembly that the heater hoses connected to in a Foxbody application. The ect sensor and hose that returned coolant to the water pump after it exited the heater core are also connected to this pipe.If you don't need to connect any heater hoses to this pipe on your Miata,napa sells a U shaped bypass hose with dual size ends to correctly fit both of the pipe diameters,to bypass the heater core.If you cant find one of these pipe assemblies or its too pricey,you'll have to come up with a means of mounting the ect sensor and providing a hose barb for the egr spacer supply hose,while using the same intake coolant port or I guess you could always leave the ect sensor in the passenger front port and add a hose barb to the top of the thermostat housing,if youve got the oem housing with the threaded hole in it already.If you don't have the oem piece,it can be easily drilled and tapped so youll have a location to install a hose barb.
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post #30 of 33 Old Yesterday, 09:52 PM Thread Starter
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Iím back. Iím just poking along at this project. I ground down all the casting imperfections on the upper and I notice on the air intake there are a couple big bumps of casting on the top and bottom of the inlet. I was going to grind those out, but got thinking maybe they are there to help with turbulence. Any idea?

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post #31 of 33 Old Today, 12:02 PM
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pics will help

Tom Moss
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post #32 of 33 Old Today, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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Here is the mouth of the upper. The left side of the pic is actually the bottom. You can see a fairly sizable bump, big enough that it makes me think itís there for a reason. The bump on the top is less visible and much smaller..
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post #33 of 33 Old Today, 06:02 PM
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There should be no issue taking that out - the egr passage is quite a bit below that.

Tom Moss
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