Short Block Quesiton - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 19 Old 04-05-2019, 07:29 AM Thread Starter
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Short Block Quesiton

Good morning,

Yesterday I received my short block from the machinist. It is currently sitting in my home office under AC on an engine stand. It is still wrapped in the cellophane and oiled. The engine will be build under AC in my home office. Will removing the cellophane cause any surface rust even though the block is indoors and under AC. Keep in mind I live in Miami where the humidity is pretty much as thick as Beyonce's ass. Thank you for your attention in this matter.

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post #2 of 19 Old 04-05-2019, 07:42 AM
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If it is oiled, then I do not see how it can rust

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post #3 of 19 Old 04-05-2019, 08:18 AM
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If you work on it over the course of a couple days, wrap it up in a big garbage bag at the end of the day. Close it off as best as you can for the night. As long as you have oil on it and bag it when done working, it should be fine.
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post #4 of 19 Old 04-05-2019, 08:25 AM
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I’d imagine that’s actually a great spot for it. A/C removes humidity from the room. So your block will be sitting in a climate/humidity controlled. Better than one sitting in my garage in Mass. And they have. As long as it is oiled as stated above of course.

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post #5 of 19 Old 04-05-2019, 09:26 AM
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I usually just wipe a little oil or wd40 on any no painted surfaces. You’ll be fine.

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post #6 of 19 Old 04-05-2019, 10:32 AM
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That's a good place to work on an engine. In a hot garage you have to be careful not to sweat on your new baby. That will cause rust REAL fast.

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post #7 of 19 Old 04-05-2019, 10:36 AM Thread Starter
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Nice, Yes I'll be working on it slowly over the next few months thanks!
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post #8 of 19 Old 04-05-2019, 11:12 AM
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I have been working on mine on and off for 3 months or so. In the back room of my house which is air conditioned. I bag it back up every night and haven't seen any signs of rust at all. My machinist had coated all the machines surface really well with a rust preventative. Now if you do a final wash outside before painting, it will try to flash rust very quickly. I fogged mine with wd40 almost immediately after washing and blowing dry with compressed air. I live in southeast Texas so I know all about the humidity you speak of.
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post #9 of 19 Old 04-05-2019, 04:51 PM
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Rust?

I had to Google it. That stuff must be inconvenient.......;p
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post #10 of 19 Old 04-05-2019, 05:41 PM
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Change in air temperature from being in a non climate controlled environment is what causes most of the problem. The water vapor condenses on things and then the rust shows up. Even being in a garage is much better than being outside.

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post #11 of 19 Old 04-05-2019, 07:02 PM
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Yep, like Al P noted, temp/humidity deltas (in general, and more to the point inside the bag vs outside) are what cause water particles to accumulate... keep that steady and the bag is for air born particles, otherwise no need.
Having said that, if temps/humidity is going to fluctuate, a "plastic" bag is more likely to trap and exasperate the issue than if left to breath free... 'course, then air born particles is an issue...
oh, and, I'm no engine builder... just a building scientist... temps/moisture/sealing/beathability... all a balancing act in preventing condensation.
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post #12 of 19 Old 04-06-2019, 01:56 PM
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You could always throw a desicant bag in the garbage bag to absorb moisture if you had that concern.

I have an uninsulated pole barn and when the outside temps change quickly water forms on what's inside.

I try to open the doors from time to time in the spring and fall because of that.
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post #13 of 19 Old 04-06-2019, 01:58 PM
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Humidity trapped in a wrapped up block is usually a recipe for rust. Loose bag is best

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post #14 of 19 Old 04-06-2019, 05:04 PM
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Rust is iron oxide. Oxygen combines with moisture to cause oxidation. I haven't tried it, but I've heard that one who's got a welder bagged an engine that he was building before being deployed to Pakistan, then filled the bag with argon and tied it off. Came back 6 1/2 years later and no rust to be found-anywhere. I find it odd, but that's what the guy was telling me.
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post #15 of 19 Old 04-06-2019, 05:48 PM Thread Starter
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I need some tips on painting the block. I've looked all over YouTube most of the vids are not SBF specific. I just want the block painted (Not the heads). I painted my oil tank black. I'd like to paint the block Ford Blue. I'm just trying to figure out how to best cover all the holes etc...
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post #16 of 19 Old 04-06-2019, 05:54 PM
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I use an old timing cover and pan.


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post #17 of 19 Old 04-06-2019, 07:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HialeahScience View Post
I need some tips on painting the block. I've looked all over YouTube most of the vids are not SBF specific. I just want the block painted (Not the heads). I painted my oil tank black. I'd like to paint the block Ford Blue. I'm just trying to figure out how to best cover all the holes etc...
Tape?

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422WHP/456Ft/lb. Tuned using QH by Tony @ Tuners Inc.
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post #18 of 19 Old 04-07-2019, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
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You guys paint it by hand or spray can? I've been reading about going at it with a brush and the paint quality seems to be better.
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post #19 of 19 Old 04-07-2019, 08:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HialeahScience View Post
You guys paint it by hand or spray can? I've been reading about going at it with a brush and the paint quality seems to be better.
Can’t say I’ve ever used the brush on stuff or known somebody who did.

We just did a Chevy and a stock block 302. Used duplicolor for one and vht for the other.

Both went on great.

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347, 205 11R's, Box R Intake, Ported lower, custom comp cam, 42lb injectors, 255LPH, pro-m 80, 75mm Cheap-ass TB, 1 3/4 x 3in LT's, exhaust by me, A5 trans, 4.10

422WHP/456Ft/lb. Tuned using QH by Tony @ Tuners Inc.
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