First time engine builder (342?) - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 11Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 40 Old 03-05-2019, 06:05 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
GT80's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 557
First time engine builder (342?)

I've decided to try building a budget stroker. I've sourced a bare block. Visually looks good. Cross hatching still in cylinders with no visible scoring and no lip at the top of the bores. Did some measuring on it this evening and my worst measurements were (basing off 4.000") 0.0015" taper and 0.001" out-of-round. Deck flatness was within 0.0025" with the worst being inline with the cylinders on the edge closest to the lifters. I was planning on a 347 stroker but after my measurements I think I'm ok with just a hone and standard bore 342?

My plan is for this to be a fun learning experience and not go crazy just yet. So unless I'm mistaken my next course of action is to source the rotating assembly and main bearings, then clearance the block. I've looked at Eagle and DSS so far. Any other recommendations? This is going to take me a while since I'm doing it with my "play money" so this thread could go on for a while with me asking questions. Thanks for getting me started.


'88 Notch - BBK CAI, BBK X-pipe, Flowmaster catbacks, B&M shifter, Al driveshaft, SVE coilovers, MM full length SFCs, 5-lug conversion, rear discs, 2000 GT wheels.
GT80 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 40 Old 03-05-2019, 06:38 PM
Authorized corral.net Advertiser
 
Trader Feedback: (17)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Chicago IL
Posts: 11,749
Cast crank, I beam rod? If so use scat, this will give you the best chance of a usable cast crank. You want to mag check the deck, coolant holes to head bolt holes. This is a common crack area, sometimes you can see with the naked eye, most times you need something with magnetic particle checking tool to verify if there is cracks or not.

tmoss likes this.

Yes I am "Woody", Yes I am the Owner. 110% QUALITY Driven!
630-462-3978 Shop Direct
877-723-5487 Shop Toll-Free

TONS of Build Photos Ck at
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Make sure to sign up for

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
The single most exciting thing to happen to the small block ford community in a LONG TIME.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
strokeme is online now  
post #3 of 40 Old 03-05-2019, 07:16 PM
Registered User
 
Oldbutnew's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (6)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Southeast Michigan
Posts: 514
Garage
What he said.^
I used Scat Cast 9000 crank and their 5.4" I-beam capscrew rods in my 331. Decent quality at a really decent price. If you are staying NA and keeping the RPM's under 6500 or so, they will be fine.
There are some crack detection kits available from MSC and other industrial supply houses. But even the dye penetrant / UV style will run $60-100.

A good relationship with a local machine shop will go a long way.

'88 LX hatch. Mild 331. Full MM suspension minus the Torque Arm, Cobra Brakes. Not as slow as it used to be.
Oldbutnew is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 40 Old 03-05-2019, 10:05 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
GT80's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 557
Cracks was one thing I forgot to mention but you both brought it up. So my plan was to dye pen the most common problem areas myself. Where else should I check besides around the head bolt holes and coolant passages?

This will be a very mild NA engine under 6500. Not looking for anything crazy. Thanks for the input!

'88 Notch - BBK CAI, BBK X-pipe, Flowmaster catbacks, B&M shifter, Al driveshaft, SVE coilovers, MM full length SFCs, 5-lug conversion, rear discs, 2000 GT wheels.
GT80 is offline  
post #5 of 40 Old 03-05-2019, 10:41 PM
Authorized corral.net Advertiser
 
Trader Feedback: (17)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Chicago IL
Posts: 11,749
main bolt holes is about it. The head bolt to coolant holes is the most common area.

Yes I am "Woody", Yes I am the Owner. 110% QUALITY Driven!
630-462-3978 Shop Direct
877-723-5487 Shop Toll-Free

TONS of Build Photos Ck at
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Make sure to sign up for

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
The single most exciting thing to happen to the small block ford community in a LONG TIME.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
strokeme is online now  
post #6 of 40 Old 03-06-2019, 07:27 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
GT80's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 557
I've noticed that it can be difficult to find a 342 kit. I guess most suppliers just assume at least 30 over for a kit. I really don't think I need that with this block. Should I look at building my own rotating assembly? Kit would be easiest, but I have time.

'88 Notch - BBK CAI, BBK X-pipe, Flowmaster catbacks, B&M shifter, Al driveshaft, SVE coilovers, MM full length SFCs, 5-lug conversion, rear discs, 2000 GT wheels.
GT80 is offline  
post #7 of 40 Old 03-06-2019, 08:05 PM
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: New Orleans, LA
Posts: 905
Yea as stated try to find a machine shop and become friends. We have a bunch of local engine builders and racers that we do favors for all the time. If its someone we know they usually drop the block off and we inspect them for beer money. But I suppose if someone did bring a block by it would only be $100 or so to look it over.

DIY Tuning -
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
TMoss Porting - tmoss.efidynotuning.com
Decipha is offline  
post #8 of 40 Old 04-18-2019, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
GT80's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 557
I bought some GT40 heads and explorer upper/lower intake because I found a decent deal but what I really need to decide on is the rotating assembly (namely the piston volume) and cam so now I'm looking at compression ratio. I definitely want to be able to run pump gas. Based on online calculators the kits I'm looking at would put my stroker at 9.46:1 or 9.62:1 static CR with GT40 heads (assuming 64cc chamber) and 6.5cc or 5cc pistons. I'm planning to run an E or F cam (keep in mind this is a "budget" build!) and based on calculators that puts the low/high dynamic CR between 7.75:1 and 8.25:1 based on options. I know there are loads of opinions out there but a common theme I've read is that you want to keep dynamic somewhere between 7.5 and 8.5 to avoid detonation. The 5cc piston with E cam would put me at the estimated 8.25:1 dynamic. Would I be pushing it there? I don't want any possibility of issues with pump gas.

'88 Notch - BBK CAI, BBK X-pipe, Flowmaster catbacks, B&M shifter, Al driveshaft, SVE coilovers, MM full length SFCs, 5-lug conversion, rear discs, 2000 GT wheels.
GT80 is offline  
post #9 of 40 Old 04-18-2019, 08:30 PM
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (4)
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Georgia
Posts: 440
Quote:
Originally Posted by GT80 View Post
I bought some GT40 heads and explorer upper/lower intake because I found a decent deal but what I really need to decide on is the rotating assembly (namely the piston volume) and cam so now I'm looking at compression ratio. I definitely want to be able to run pump gas. Based on online calculators the kits I'm looking at would put my stroker at 9.46:1 or 9.62:1 static CR with GT40 heads (assuming 64cc chamber) and 6.5cc or 5cc pistons. I'm planning to run an E or F cam (keep in mind this is a "budget" build!) and based on calculators that puts the low/high dynamic CR between 7.75:1 and 8.25:1 based on options. I know there are loads of opinions out there but a common theme I've read is that you want to keep dynamic somewhere between 7.5 and 8.5 to avoid detonation. The 5cc piston with E cam would put me at the estimated 8.25:1 dynamic. Would I be pushing it there? I don't want any possibility of issues with pump gas.
You’ll be fine, we have 93 octane down here as I’m sure y’all do too.

If you keep the coolant temps down to around 180* it will help with pinging, but you’ll probably never see it.

E cam will be fine for a cheap build, just buy a used one. Usually around $100

Edit: wait, you’re using gt40s and an e cam for a stroker engine?

1996 Mustang
347, 205 11R's, Box R Intake, Ported lower, custom comp cam, 42lb injectors, 255LPH, pro-m 80, 75mm Cheap-ass TB, 1 3/4 x 3in LT's, exhaust by me, A5 trans, 4.10

422WHP/456Ft/lb. Tuned using QH by Tony @ Tuners Inc.
96pushrod is online now  
post #10 of 40 Old 04-18-2019, 10:45 PM
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (4)
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: casper wy.
Posts: 959
The above post by strokeme is woody from fordstrokers. If you go to sbftech and look up a 306 build and 300hp you should find a thread he wrote on how to get there. Your build is possible but may not need the stroker kit. Pick the hp goals and call woody. You limit yourself with the HCI choices you make. Also check on the ring and piston package you can get. Then your machinest can hone the block right.

wywindsor is offline  
post #11 of 40 Old 04-18-2019, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
GT80's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 557
Quote:
Originally Posted by 96pushrod View Post
Edit: wait, youíre using gt40s and an e cam for a stroker engine?
Sure. Why not?

'88 Notch - BBK CAI, BBK X-pipe, Flowmaster catbacks, B&M shifter, Al driveshaft, SVE coilovers, MM full length SFCs, 5-lug conversion, rear discs, 2000 GT wheels.
GT80 is offline  
post #12 of 40 Old 04-18-2019, 11:10 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
GT80's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 557
Quote:
Originally Posted by wywindsor View Post
The above post by strokeme is woody from fordstrokers. If you go to sbftech and look up a 306 build and 300hp you should find a thread he wrote on how to get there. Your build is possible but may not need the stroker kit. Pick the hp goals and call woody. You limit yourself with the HCI choices you make. Also check on the ring and piston package you can get. Then your machinest can hone the block right.
I will check into that. As I stated in my first post, this is a fun budget project for me. Not necessarily looking for max hp from this build, but a 347 can offer some nice low end torque. I'm not racing. I spend most of my time just rolling on the throttle at low rpm. I'm just wanting to learn and have a streetable engine in the end. I realize that's probably foreign to a lot of people here.
Quik5oh likes this.

'88 Notch - BBK CAI, BBK X-pipe, Flowmaster catbacks, B&M shifter, Al driveshaft, SVE coilovers, MM full length SFCs, 5-lug conversion, rear discs, 2000 GT wheels.
GT80 is offline  
post #13 of 40 Old 04-19-2019, 01:07 AM
Registered User
 
Mark O'Neal's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 3,035
I just build my pistons to suit. Saves all the messing around.

I never understood why no one made standard pistons OTS.
Mark O'Neal is offline  
post #14 of 40 Old 04-19-2019, 06:19 AM
Old timer
 
Ed Curtis's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (17)
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: In the shop - Working 24/7
Posts: 5,618
Garage
Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by GT80 View Post
<snip> I'm planning to run an E or F cam (keep in mind this is a "budget" build!) and based on calculators that puts the low/high dynamic CR between 7.75:1 and 8.25:1 based on options. I know there are loads of opinions out there but a common theme I've read is that you want to keep dynamic somewhere between 7.5 and 8.5 to avoid detonation. The 5cc piston with E cam would put me at the estimated 8.25:1 dynamic. Would I be pushing it there? I don't want any possibility of issues with pump gas.
DCR = waste of time and oxygen...


Quote Mark O'Neal:

"Virtually every customer I have has the same first interest. That is what is the lowest price he can pay. People like myself, Ed and very few others on this board have spent decades learning what we know.....and y'all want that knowledge for free....and you'll take the parts for free as well."
.
Ed Curtis is offline  
post #15 of 40 Old 04-19-2019, 08:03 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
GT80's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 557
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Curtis View Post
DCR = waste of time and oxygen...
Thanks for the info. What does that mean?

'88 Notch - BBK CAI, BBK X-pipe, Flowmaster catbacks, B&M shifter, Al driveshaft, SVE coilovers, MM full length SFCs, 5-lug conversion, rear discs, 2000 GT wheels.
GT80 is offline  
post #16 of 40 Old 04-19-2019, 08:10 AM
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (4)
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Georgia
Posts: 440
Quote:
Originally Posted by GT80 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 96pushrod View Post
Edit: wait, you’re using gt40s and an e cam for a stroker engine?
Sure. Why not?
Because those parts barely cut it for a mild n/a 302. Why spend the money on a full rotating assembly just to put lackluster parts on the areas where you actually make your power? I think you’d be far happier and still be fully streetable with some better heads
Rock4451 likes this.

1996 Mustang
347, 205 11R's, Box R Intake, Ported lower, custom comp cam, 42lb injectors, 255LPH, pro-m 80, 75mm Cheap-ass TB, 1 3/4 x 3in LT's, exhaust by me, A5 trans, 4.10

422WHP/456Ft/lb. Tuned using QH by Tony @ Tuners Inc.
96pushrod is online now  
post #17 of 40 Old 04-19-2019, 08:26 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
GT80's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 557
Quote:
Originally Posted by 96pushrod View Post
Because those parts barely cut it for a mild n/a 302. Why spend the money on a full rotating assembly just to put lackluster parts on the areas where you actually make your power? I think youíd be far happier and still be fully streetable with some better heads
My train of thought is I can always upgrade HCI later. I have no HP or ET goals I'm trying to meet right now.

'88 Notch - BBK CAI, BBK X-pipe, Flowmaster catbacks, B&M shifter, Al driveshaft, SVE coilovers, MM full length SFCs, 5-lug conversion, rear discs, 2000 GT wheels.
GT80 is offline  
post #18 of 40 Old 04-19-2019, 09:00 AM
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (4)
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Georgia
Posts: 440
Quote:
Originally Posted by GT80 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 96pushrod View Post
Because those parts barely cut it for a mild n/a 302. Why spend the money on a full rotating assembly just to put lackluster parts on the areas where you actually make your power? I think you’d be far happier and still be fully streetable with some better heads
My train of thought is I can always upgrade HCI later. I have no HP or ET goals I'm trying to meet right now.
You see, for my money I’d rather skip out on the stoker parts and spend that money on heads and an Intake. To each their own I guess.
Rock4451 likes this.

1996 Mustang
347, 205 11R's, Box R Intake, Ported lower, custom comp cam, 42lb injectors, 255LPH, pro-m 80, 75mm Cheap-ass TB, 1 3/4 x 3in LT's, exhaust by me, A5 trans, 4.10

422WHP/456Ft/lb. Tuned using QH by Tony @ Tuners Inc.
96pushrod is online now  
post #19 of 40 Old 04-19-2019, 02:42 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
GT80's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 557
Quote:
Originally Posted by 96pushrod View Post
You see, for my money Iíd rather skip out on the stoker parts and spend that money on heads and an Intake. To each their own I guess.
Then when I max out the capabilities with H/C/I upgrades and I'm wanting a little more I pull the engine back out and stroke it? I understand where you're coming from, I'm just coming at it from a different angle. You said it best, to each their own.

'88 Notch - BBK CAI, BBK X-pipe, Flowmaster catbacks, B&M shifter, Al driveshaft, SVE coilovers, MM full length SFCs, 5-lug conversion, rear discs, 2000 GT wheels.
GT80 is offline  
post #20 of 40 Old 04-19-2019, 03:00 PM
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (4)
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Georgia
Posts: 440
Quote:
Originally Posted by GT80 View Post

Then when I max out the capabilities with H/C/I upgrades and I'm wanting a little more I pull the engine back out and stroke it? I understand where you're coming from, I'm just coming at it from a different angle. You said it best, to each their own.
What I’m trying to get at it you’ll make more power with a good hci combo on a 302 than a crappy hci combo on a 347. You can get a good set of heads and a good intake and still be able to grow in cubes later on.
CDW6212R likes this.

1996 Mustang
347, 205 11R's, Box R Intake, Ported lower, custom comp cam, 42lb injectors, 255LPH, pro-m 80, 75mm Cheap-ass TB, 1 3/4 x 3in LT's, exhaust by me, A5 trans, 4.10

422WHP/456Ft/lb. Tuned using QH by Tony @ Tuners Inc.
96pushrod is online now  
post #21 of 40 Old 04-19-2019, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
GT80's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 557
Quote:
Originally Posted by 96pushrod View Post
What Iím trying to get at it youíll make more power with a good hci combo on a 302 than a crappy hci combo on a 347. You can get a good set of heads and a good intake and still be able to grow in cubes later on.
Agreed.

'88 Notch - BBK CAI, BBK X-pipe, Flowmaster catbacks, B&M shifter, Al driveshaft, SVE coilovers, MM full length SFCs, 5-lug conversion, rear discs, 2000 GT wheels.
GT80 is offline  
post #22 of 40 Old 04-19-2019, 05:56 PM
Registered User
 
Rock4451's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (16)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: New Baden, Illinois
Posts: 3,107
Youíre still using a stock block, and chiefly worried about the rotating assembly being pushed too far? I have several buddies who cracked the block, but none who said the RA kicked the bucket.

Put some actual induction parts on the motor. Letter cams and GT40s have their place and itís when the budget is 50 cents. Throw that money you were gonna use for rotating assembly at your top end, some good link bar lifters, and have the 347 guys call you a liar when you tell them you have a 302.

86 Mustang 302 N/A
372rwhp/349rwtq
Rock4451 is offline  
post #23 of 40 Old 04-19-2019, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
GT80's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 557
I am going against convention here so I guess these replies can be expected. Nowhere did I ever say I was worried about pushing the RA too far. Nowhere have I said I'm looking to max out the HP on the stock block. Nowhere have I even said I had specific goals for this engine. What I've said is I'm building a budget stroker for fun and I've only asked pointed questions about block inspection, stroker kits, and compression ratios. I understand I will choke a 347 with GT40 heads/intake and an alphabet cam is less than ideal. I'm ok with that. When I'm ready, I'll sell the heads and intake for what I have in them, throw some nice aftermarket parts on, get a proper cam, and probably max out the capacity of the stock block. When I get to that point I won't have to pull the motor to stroke it, I'll be doing all that work under the hood. That may not be what most would do, but is that so crazy of a plan?!

'88 Notch - BBK CAI, BBK X-pipe, Flowmaster catbacks, B&M shifter, Al driveshaft, SVE coilovers, MM full length SFCs, 5-lug conversion, rear discs, 2000 GT wheels.
GT80 is offline  
post #24 of 40 Old 04-19-2019, 07:02 PM
Corral Elite Member
 
AtomicCoupe's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Plymouth, Ma
Posts: 984
Quote:
Originally Posted by GT80 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 96pushrod View Post
You see, for my money I’d rather skip out on the stoker parts and spend that money on heads and an Intake. To each their own I guess.
Then when I max out the capabilities with H/C/I upgrades and I'm wanting a little more I pull the engine back out and stroke it? I understand where you're coming from, I'm just coming at it from a different angle. You said it best, to each their own.
No, you boost that b*tch!!

Stock block 306, V1 T-trim, AFM B-451 cam, TFS Twisted Wedge, Holley Systemax, A1000, Snow Meth, TKO 600, Team Z, Strange, MM, Lakewood and Moser helps me go forward fast.
AtomicCoupe is online now  
post #25 of 40 Old 04-19-2019, 07:11 PM
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (4)
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Georgia
Posts: 440
Quote:
Originally Posted by GT80 View Post
That may not be what most would do, but is that so crazy of a plan?!
Yes, yes that is lol. It’s your call man, we’re just trying to steer you in, what seems to us, is the most logical direction.

In the end, it’s your car and money.

1996 Mustang
347, 205 11R's, Box R Intake, Ported lower, custom comp cam, 42lb injectors, 255LPH, pro-m 80, 75mm Cheap-ass TB, 1 3/4 x 3in LT's, exhaust by me, A5 trans, 4.10

422WHP/456Ft/lb. Tuned using QH by Tony @ Tuners Inc.
96pushrod is online now  
post #26 of 40 Old 04-19-2019, 07:30 PM
Registered User
 
CDW6212R's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Knoxville, TN.
Posts: 2,180
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rock4451 View Post
...

... Throw that money ... some good link bar lifters,...

When are the link bar lifters needed or more reliable? Do they need to be considered for an engine shifting at 6000rpm, or another at 5500rpm? That's one of a few items I haven't decided about yet.


I also agree with the others. If the short block can go back together for little money and time, I'd make a first step with mid level HCI parts. There are tons of parts to consider outside of the short block, which all contribute a bunch to overall power, and reliability. I'd work on most of those, and at some point soon, you will more clearly see a goal to aim for. Then the choices and budget will be simpler to handle.

Don
92 Mark VII LSC SE - soon OBDII and 4R70, GTC kit and 347, custom paint.
98 Explorer Limited project to add 4WD, XP8 parts, KB blower, paint, 337.
99 Limited mail vehicle, SOHC 4WD, later 306/4R70W swap. 1998 Mountaineer spare. 72 Ranchero 351 Clevor project.
CDW6212R is offline  
post #27 of 40 Old 04-20-2019, 10:53 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
GT80's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 557
Quote:
Originally Posted by 96pushrod View Post
Yes, yes that is lol. Itís your call man, weíre just trying to steer you in, what seems to us, is the most logical direction.

In the end, itís your car and money.
My mind is not totally made up and I have plenty of time. I'm not trying to get this done in a hurry by any means. I understand you're trying to steer me and I appreciate that to a certain extent since I admittedly have less experience. But steering me without knowing my driving habits or any specific goals is a bit illogical and presumptuous I think. So maybe one generic goal might help to set the stage.

I want healthly torque with max more towards the low end. I'm not interested in an engine that I have to rev the snot out of, and I want to stay N/A. That's just my personal preference. It's what I used to love about my Suzuki TL1000 v-twin. Torque everywhere, unlike the I-4's at that time that had to be revved to 12k to make similar numbers. I'm building an engine from a bare block. I have to buy a rotating assembly. Do you see any reason why I shouldn't go with a stroker kit given this goal?

I'd also need to decide on pistons. Like I said, I want to be able to run pump gas without any issues. What CR should i be shooting for? Do I need to make a final decision on the heads first or buy pistons that will give me a range of head options later?

Once again, I'm doing this for fun. I'm not racing it. I'm not trying to prove anything, or beat the guy down the street, or post up big HP/TQ numbers. If I was purely interested in that I'd just buy a crate engine and have someone put it in for me and tune it. Where's the fun in that? This isn't a budget build because it has to be it's because I want it to be.

'88 Notch - BBK CAI, BBK X-pipe, Flowmaster catbacks, B&M shifter, Al driveshaft, SVE coilovers, MM full length SFCs, 5-lug conversion, rear discs, 2000 GT wheels.
GT80 is offline  
post #28 of 40 Old 04-20-2019, 11:45 AM
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 136
I think we need some actual goals defined or more information on how you drive the car to give any advice that doesn't involve spending money needlessly or twice.

What do you actually use the car for?
What's your current engine/driveline setup?
What do you want the car to do that it isn't doing currently?
bluemp301 is online now  
post #29 of 40 Old 04-20-2019, 01:17 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
GT80's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 557
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemp301 View Post
I think we need some actual goals defined or more information on how you drive the car to give any advice that doesn't involve spending money needlessly or twice.

What do you actually use the car for?
What's your current engine/driveline setup?
What do you want the car to do that it isn't doing currently?
The car is more or less a grocery getter and rarely goes more than 20 miles from home. Current engine/driveline is bone stock except for what's in my sig. I bought the car with no engine and pulled the engine from a beat up hatch, rebuilt the T5 and rear end, and got it on the road. The engine is tired. My driving habits are a bit mild, some may describe it as a little boring lol. What I'd like is more torque to put me back in the seat a little more when rolling on the throttle at lower rpm and I thought a 347 would do the trick. I don't really want to build on the old tired stock motor, and I don't want to pull it out to rebuild it because I want to continue driving it. That's why I decided to buy a block and build something on the side.

'88 Notch - BBK CAI, BBK X-pipe, Flowmaster catbacks, B&M shifter, Al driveshaft, SVE coilovers, MM full length SFCs, 5-lug conversion, rear discs, 2000 GT wheels.
GT80 is offline  
post #30 of 40 Old 04-20-2019, 03:45 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
GT80's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 557
Nevermind the numbers, I think these are the kind of curves I'd be happy with. I guess to put it simply, I'm looking for plenty of low end torque and don't really care what's going on above 4500 because I'm going to spend little time there. Does that help?


'88 Notch - BBK CAI, BBK X-pipe, Flowmaster catbacks, B&M shifter, Al driveshaft, SVE coilovers, MM full length SFCs, 5-lug conversion, rear discs, 2000 GT wheels.
GT80 is offline  
post #31 of 40 Old 04-20-2019, 04:02 PM
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 136
I mean it sounds like you want to build and tinker either way. If you're starting with a bare block you might as well do a stroker.
I'd run the GT40 heads you have. Just get a custom cam done and a good set of valve springs.

If/when you want more power put on a better set of aluminum heads.

It's not the most efficient idea but it's not a completely terrible idea for your goals.
bluemp301 is online now  
post #32 of 40 Old 04-20-2019, 04:31 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
GT80's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 557
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemp301 View Post
I mean it sounds like you want to build and tinker either way.
Yes! This is what I like to do! This is mostly a project I decided on because I had run out of other projects in my shop. Like I said before, if the performance is a bit anemic to start with I'm ok with that. I was just thinking it'd be good to at least build a solid base to grow on later.

'88 Notch - BBK CAI, BBK X-pipe, Flowmaster catbacks, B&M shifter, Al driveshaft, SVE coilovers, MM full length SFCs, 5-lug conversion, rear discs, 2000 GT wheels.
GT80 is offline  
post #33 of 40 Old 04-21-2019, 11:55 AM
Registered User
 
cleanLX's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Phoenix AZ. by way of Fredericton, NB, Canada
Posts: 1,641
In a world of instant gratification, something like this is incomprehensible.
You've got the bare block sitting there... gotta spend $ for crank/rods/pistons anyways, may as well stroke it ($ difference is minimal)... I too would build the foundation.
There was a user here running a 347 with E7te's, hydro roller... going low 11's n/a... he may have had some weight reduction, don't recall.
Not a whole lot of budget 306's going low 11's, much less fancy top end ones...
I think you are on the right path if long term is your goal.
2dxtrm likes this.

Mike H.
Duffee 306 and E7te's, Buddy Rawls cam. 368rwhp/363rwtq.
cleanLX is offline  
post #34 of 40 Old 04-21-2019, 03:54 PM
Registered User
 
Mark O'Neal's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 3,035
We did a 347, back in the day, with, GT40P heads (the J302s were the hot lash back then). It made about 340 H/P at the flywheel. It was fun to drive.
Mark O'Neal is offline  
post #35 of 40 Old 04-21-2019, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
GT80's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 557
Quote:
Originally Posted by cleanLX View Post
In a world of instant gratification, something like this is incomprehensible.
You've got the bare block sitting there... gotta spend $ for crank/rods/pistons anyways, may as well stroke it ($ difference is minimal)... I too would build the foundation.
There was a user here running a 347 with E7te's, hydro roller... going low 11's n/a... he may have had some weight reduction, don't recall.
Not a whole lot of budget 306's going low 11's, much less fancy top end ones...
I think you are on the right path if long term is your goal.
Long term for sure. No intentions of ever selling the car. Always wanted one, probably a real good thing my parents wouldn't let me have one when I got my license. Got this one rolling down the road after plenty of B/S/T. Plan now is to just tinker with it from here on. So far I've concentrated most on suspension/chassis/braking and cosmetic upgrades. Oh, and reintalling the A/C that was deleted from the hatch donor car. I like to be comfortable too.

'88 Notch - BBK CAI, BBK X-pipe, Flowmaster catbacks, B&M shifter, Al driveshaft, SVE coilovers, MM full length SFCs, 5-lug conversion, rear discs, 2000 GT wheels.
GT80 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
NHRA OUTLAWS BOSS 429 ENGINE RAY JERMYN 351C/Big Block Engine Tech 9 08-10-2014 06:48 PM
Is tuning really not necessary for a bolt on car? 4rd Tough 94/95 Tech 67 01-27-2014 10:46 PM
Are 4.30's or 4.10's too much gear? mustang347gt General Mustang Tech 63 05-27-2007 12:19 AM
96-98 Cobra Maintenance Schedule BlueOvalDriver SVT & DOHC 3 07-13-2003 08:00 PM
Long term fuel trims maxed at+25%, what does this mean? 99SaleenS281 GT & SOHC 68 07-15-2002 08:12 AM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome