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1989 w/ 255/40/R17 on all corners

6K views 36 replies 9 participants last post by  Shaker666 
#1 ·
I scored a set of 17x9 (I think, although they may be 17x8) 5-lug Cobra R lookalike wheels from an acquaintance for very cheap. They used to be on his Fox Mustang of unknown vintage. I installed some Nitto 255-40R17 rubber on them and slapped them onto my '89 and have front tire rubbing issues. I have a PA Racing K-member with FRPP aftermarket LCAs. As you can see in the pics, there's a minor amount of fender lip rub while cycling the suspension moderately. It's driveable, but requires A LOT of care to avoid rubbing.

What is the best way to fix the issue? Would rolling the fender lip resolve it or should I look into 245 width tires, or just start over and use different wheels altogether?
 

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#2 ·
you need more back space

that is where the math should have kicked in

now, you could try to massage the fender lips, remember I have 6.42" BS, I am sure you have the 5.95 variant.

what spindles?
 
#3 ·
SN95 spindles. I'll check the BS.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Definitely '95 spindles. It's so low to the ground it's difficult to get underneath it and measure the backspace... it's going to the exhaust shop tomorrow however, so I'll measure the BS when it's on the rack.

I didn't have this problem with the stock K-member. I think the PA Racing K has kicked out the track slightly and it's also lowered the car a bit. It sits with a minor rake it never used to have before. All the rest of the suspension has remained the same: FLCAs, springs, struts, spindles, wheels, tires, etc.
 
#7 ·
Add some negative camber.
 
#8 ·
Not using camber/caster plates. So I found a '95 Mustang sitting in my friend's shop's yard. The car's been sitting there for about 3-4 years, but has 17" wheels with 255-40R17 rubber on them. We pulled one off the other day and the backspace measures 6.25". Indy2000 suggested that I probably have the 5.9" BS wheels, so the 6.25" BS wheels should resolve the issue, right?
 
#9 ·
ya better get some plates

and for me to say it will resolve it, not so fast, it will help, you to test fit...I find out for sure

organized the shop I see:surprise:

is the vise I mounted still there??
 
#10 ·
hehe yeah, the vise is still mounted on the bench and still used regularly.

The car has been at the A/C shop since last Wednesday, so I've not been able to measure my backspacing. If you're right, however, those Cobra wheels, which BTW are OEM Ford wheels (yep, checked the casting inside the wheel), should work, barring any issues contacting the FLCAs.

I've been avoiding using CC plates because I kind of want the car to remain as OEM as possible, where possible. Somehow, despite modifying the suspension, my alignment seems to still be able to fall within stock specs, even with an aftermarket K-member and practically all other major suspension components.
 
#12 ·
Still hoping to not have to add CC plates! If I do end up needing them, I'll definitely consider the AJE's, though.
 
#13 ·
Ok, so the BS on my existing wheels is 5.9". I'm seriously considering a set of Enkei Kojin in matte silver finish, 17x9, 35mm offset, I believe the BS ends up being 6.4". I can't find any 03-04 Cobra wheels in a machined/matte silver finish and the Enkeis seem to be the best option.

KOJIN | Enkei Wheels
 
#15 ·
Candid opinions on wheels selected?
 
#17 ·
Yeah, that was the plan. The matte silver finish. I think they only come in silver or black, but I'm not much for the murdered out look.
 
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#19 ·
I think you misunderstood. I only have a set of replica Cobra R wheels with the 5.9" BS. I've purchased a set of Enkei Kojin wheels in 17x9 with 35mm offset (6.3" BS) to solve my fitment issue. Problem appears to be solved, but still haven't driven the car yet.
 
#21 ·
I was pretty excited once I got my Enkei Kojins, they were shipped in really nice packaging that kept them pristine. Took them to Discount Tire, where the tires I have were originally purchased, to have them swapped on and rebalanced. All went well until they started loading the wheels back into my truck. Some junior tech dumped one of the wheels onto its face on concrete. The Kojin protrudes out a bit, so it severely marred the finish and even dented the aluminum a bit.

The manager said he's got a guy that can refinish the wheel, so I left it with them, but what would you guys do in the same situation?
 
#23 ·
I guess I'll wait and see how the refinished wheel turns out. If it looks perfect, then fine. If not, I'll press them to replace it. I didn't buy the wheels from them, though... I ordered them thru Emnotek.
 
#24 ·
Got my new wheels setup and all is well. The refinished wheel was done well enough that nobody I've asked has been able to tell the difference between it and the others, so all good there.

Since I'm using stock length Fox axles my rear track is narrower than the front track. What spacer width should be used to make them match, or at least fill out the quarters better? I had to remove the quad shocks to get the wheel/tire to fit and need to reinstall them at some stage, so definitely looking into bolt-on spacers. I was thinking 0.5" initially, but since the difference between Fox and SN95 axles is 0.75" per side, perhaps 0.75" spacer would be a better fit. No clue.
 
#26 ·
I spent thousands on the rear end, not getting right back into it. Going to run spacers. Need to know what width works.
 
#28 ·
Do you have to remove the axle shaft to install new studs? I was hoping to run bolt-on spacers. I think 0.5" is all I can do and clear the quarters. The axle work was very well spent money. I crushed the carrier bearings in the 8.8 twice (even with a bearing girdle) before shelling out for straightening the tubes, welding them to the housing, gusseting them, and then going 31-spline with a Tru-trac, and North Race Cars Cobra rear brake kit. That twin screw really puts the hurt on the driveline, even when driving smooth.
 
#29 ·
A 25mm bolt on spacer that MM and others sell will make the outer edge sit close to an 18x10 +20 does. If your wondering what that looks like there's pictures in the thread about the SVE series 3 wheel a couple posts down.
 
#30 ·
Been running .5" spacers on the back of my 86 for several years. Didn't need to remove axles to install the longer 3" studs. But banging the old studs out is not a good idea since each hit on the axle will push on the pin. I used a ball joint remover designed for Hondas. Worked slick. New studs went in using a Lysle stud installer tool and my impact. But I pulled a few in using a standard ratchet; not as easy but doable.
 
#31 ·
So I finally picked up some 3/4" spacers from Baer. I need new studs, for sure, but not coming up with an ARP part number. Does anyone have a part number for longer studs needed to for a 5-lug '94-'04 Mustang rear?
 
#33 ·
#35 ·
Thanks for that, Maximum Motorsports saves the day!
 
#37 ·
Old pictures, but gets the point across.

1074059

1074060
 
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