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#1 |
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Registered User
Trader Feedback: (5)
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Mt. Airy, NC
Posts: 2,623
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Watch this launch vid and tell me what my car needs...
I can't seem to get this car to transfer any weight to the rear tires. Here is what my front and rear suspension consists of:
Front: Tubular k-member and a-arms, coilovers with 160# 14" Hypercoil springs, Strange adjustable struts. Also has a manual rack but has AC and still has the battery up front. Rear: Megabite Jr lowers and adjustable uppers. Stock springs that have had a little cut off of them. Torque boxes are welded and it has subframe connectors. Otherwise, the car is full weight, AOD, etc. I run on M/T 26x10 slicks with around 12-13psi in them. This particular run was with the struts set 2 clicks from full loose but I had already tried some other settings with no luck. Here's the vid: http://videos.streetfire.net/video/8...700006237f.htm
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'97 GT w/ an '01 engine swap. |
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#2 |
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Registered User
Trader Feedback: (5)
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Mt. Airy, NC
Posts: 2,623
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Just from watching it again and pausing at the very start of the launch, it looks like I could use some stiffening at the right rear, possibly an airbag or adjustable shock right there. Maybe a little stiffer setting on the front strut on the pass side as well. But that still won't get the front end up.
BTW, that was a 1.46 60' time. |
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#3 |
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Registered User
Trader Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Tulsa
Posts: 90
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A sway bar will help tremendously. Keeps the rear tires planting at the same time. Also an airbag will help, but is more of a bandade than anything. Try an adjustable swaybar, should help level the car out. (p.s. I am no expert, so get another opinion before spending the cash
) The car needs more preload on the right rear to level out on launch. The only problem with this is that is can affect cornering ability, depends on if the car is a driver or a race car.
Last edited by etatum21; 11-05-2006 at 05:55 PM. |
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#4 |
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Registered User
Trader Feedback: (5)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Ellicott City, MD
Posts: 1,138
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I had the same problem, and fixed it with 13 way QA1 adjustable rear shocks from summit. I set the passenger/rear stiffer. I also have adjustable front struts, and set the driver/front on a stiffer setting.
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99 2v GT, 35th, 518 rwhp, 470 rwtq 11.035/129.77/1.595 (stock shortblock) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q2ak8fsodjA |
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#5 |
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Registered User
Trader Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,340
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we had a 170 lbs spring in the front and dropped to 130 lbs and went from 1.6's to 1.43 60ft times with nothing else changed
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8.0 @ 88 on motor, old 306 7.0 @ 100 on new engine combo 6.4 @ 108 letting out twice on bottle. 11.2 @ 126 in 1/4 on motor |
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#7 |
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Registered User
Trader Feedback: (5)
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Mt. Airy, NC
Posts: 2,623
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Yes it has been my daily driver for a while now. It has the stock rear sway bar installed but no front. I'm not concerned at all about cornering. I don't hang curves or anything. And I rarely ever break the speed limit.
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#8 | |
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Registered User
Trader Feedback: (5)
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Mt. Airy, NC
Posts: 2,623
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Quote:
I think I'll try an adjustable shock. It looks like I can get away with just buying one for the passenger's side since that's the side that's squatting so much. I think I may turn on the coilovers some to raise it up. Maybe it's just too damn low? |
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#9 |
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Registered User
Trader Feedback: (5)
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Mt. Airy, NC
Posts: 2,623
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Actually I have cut a 1.38 60' before with a 200# spring and stock k-member. Now I have switched to 160# and lost weight off of the front so it should work better than before. It makes more power than it did before as well though.
Last edited by Daniel Mitchell; 11-05-2006 at 11:57 PM. |
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#10 |
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Registered User
Trader Feedback: (36)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Battle Creek, Mi
Posts: 5,205
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It looks like the rear of the car needs to be much lower. get the bar angles correct. I would guess the instant center is way off.
Set the front struts full loose. Get a sway bar for the rear. Most likley a 130 to 140 front spring. no need to remove the weight off the front if you don't want to. you need to get a long spring with lots of stored energy to toss the front of the car up. Tim
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86 3185lb FTI 408 10.24 132 unported TW. Hot Rod Drag Week NA-SB R/U 2007 Officaly Retired from Racing. When arguing with a idiot after a few min it is hard to tell who the idiot is. www.flowtechinduction.com www.boozebrothersracing.com |
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#12 |
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Registered User
Trader Feedback: (36)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Battle Creek, Mi
Posts: 5,205
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What location do you have the lower control arm in.
you want the lower control arm parallel to the ground. this will get the IC and AS close. with 26" tires you have to get the car down in the weeds Tim
__________________
86 3185lb FTI 408 10.24 132 unported TW. Hot Rod Drag Week NA-SB R/U 2007 Officaly Retired from Racing. When arguing with a idiot after a few min it is hard to tell who the idiot is. www.flowtechinduction.com www.boozebrothersracing.com |
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#13 |
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Registered User
Trader Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Lincoln NE
Posts: 1,123
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Get an antiroll bar..
ks
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Kevin Slaby Read: Launching a Drag Car Read: Measuring Pinion Angle Read: Setting Zero Suspension Preload Diary of a 5.0 Mustang 79 Pace Car 302, 200hp N2O, Tremec, 9" w/ 4.11's 11.10 @ 122mph 60': 1.47 Stock Factory Control arms. 87 GN 12.05 @ 111, 1.60 60', 15psi launch Goal: To grow up and be Spiderman |
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#14 |
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Registered User
Trader Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: louisville
Posts: 766
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+1. I also thought some 140 springs might help.
What kind of 60' would you like to see? That 1.38 sounds good. Consistant 1.3x?
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Edelbrock 6037's (ported), RPM intake, TFS 1 and all the other bolt ons. New combos numbers: 315 HP @ 5500 339 TQ @ 4100 7.94 @ 89.70 (1.79 60') |
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#16 | |
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Registered User
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Lakeland, Fl.
Posts: 841
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Quote:
Simple, The problem is that you have entirely too much horsepower/torque. Just send me oh about 150-200 of that and you should be good to go!
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Fquick.com/Adrenalin - The project is on hold for a bit, but it's not going anywhere. |
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#17 |
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Registered User
Trader Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Picayune, MS
Posts: 337
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Hey Daniel, how have you been. Have you seen that FFW is going to have a 10.60 index class next year with a .500 pro tree? Adjust those shift points down a little and come have some fun
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#18 |
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Registered User
Trader Feedback: (5)
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Mt. Airy, NC
Posts: 2,623
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What's up Kyle? Amazingly enough, you had just crossed my mind earlier today! Kind of a long story but anyway...that's kinda freaky, lol. I hadn't heard about the new FFW class but I'm pretty sure I still can't stand George, lol.
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#20 |
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Registered User
Trader Feedback: (6)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Salisbury, NC
Posts: 225
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i was up there that day, thats a sick car man
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92 LX - MMR Pro Trans 900, victor 5.0 intake, victor jr heads (12:1 compression), comp 282 cam, moser 33spline axles with spool |
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#22 | |
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Registered User
Trader Feedback: (6)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Salisbury, NC
Posts: 225
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Quote:
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92 LX - MMR Pro Trans 900, victor 5.0 intake, victor jr heads (12:1 compression), comp 282 cam, moser 33spline axles with spool |
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#23 |
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Registered User
Trader Feedback: (5)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Gulfport, MS
Posts: 530
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Get an anti-roll bar and use some kind of pin w/ clip on one side so you can disconnect it when not at the track. Probably best mod I ever made for going to the track was the anti-roll bar.
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1990 Notch 302, TFS Top End Kit, PA C4, 3800 Edge Converter, 150hp NX, UPR Pro Series Rear, 4.10's Moser axles 6.84 at 98.72 1/8 Mile Best, trying to get better weekly |
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) The car needs more preload on the right rear to level out on launch. The only problem with this is that is can affect cornering ability, depends on if the car is a driver or a race car.





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