Dead CPU??

[kennethl6]

Are you sure you don't have a locked up engine. Turn the key off and make sure you can turn the engine by hand (socket on the crank damper bolt). Loud click at starter making the lights go out sounds like a seized engine, a bad starter or wiring is still not right. When you jump the big fender sol. terminals, do they get hot?

[306Guy]

They dont get hot as I can recall, Ill check the engine in the Am, but Im pretty sure its not seized. Ill update then. Thanks. Could it be the battery?

[306Guy]

Turns fine by hand. Here is what the starter looks like:


New battery coming soon.

[liljoe07]

Looks like it should work. Has the starter been bench tested to make sure it works?

[306Guy]

sure has...its good

[liljoe07]

Are you getting voltage to the large wire going to the starter when cranking?

Make sure the small trigger wire on the starter relay is getting 12v in crank mode also.

[306Guy]

Well...SUCCESS (partially)! I installed the new battery and she started cranking over just fine. Just wont start. I checked to see if Im getting spark and I am (I checked the #5 plug wire). Im getting AIR caused I checked the TB and it is hooked up to the linkage just fine. I have about 40psi in OIL pressure, but NO Fuel pressure. Im thinking thats the culprit. Obviously. I have a paxton FPR, but not too sure on how to set it up for the initial start. Im running it to a mechanical gauge and I have NO reading. I know fuel is getting to it because I flushed out the hard lines when I finally got the FP to work. What do you think?

[kennethl6]

Sounds like you need to go back to square one at this point. Are you sure pump is coming on, you said you had it working before. Is there fuel in the tank? Is the pressure gauge hooked up right? Can you squirt some fuel in the throttle body and start the engine for a couple of seconds? Have you checked an injector connector with a noid light?

[306Guy]

POSITIVE the pump is coming on.
Need to put MORE fuel in the tank.
I will double check the injectors as well as the gauge.

Thanks.

[liljoe07]

You have an adjustable regulator. Makes sure the adjusment screw is not ran all the way out and keeping it from building pressure.

[306Guy]

Should I tighten it all the way down and then go back 1 full turn for a baseline?

[liljoe07]

Just tighten it a few times and cycle the pump, rinse and repeat till you get a reading on your gauge. Get to about 35psi, then start the engine, and set to 40psi with the vacuum line off.

[306Guy]

So, I figured out what the problem was. I was missing a ball bearing that goes under the adjusting nut in the FPR, which allows the valve to open. I bought that and it worked, however the Rails keep squirting gas from around the injectors. I noticed that the adjusting screw holes needed to be elongated, so I am doing that part right now. Ill post up tomorrow with the progress.

[306Guy]

Got the holes on the rail elongated. Should fix tghe problem, right...WRONG! I tried to cycle the FP a few times to build up the pressure in the system....thing is, no fuel came out of the disconnected isolator hose. I filled up the tank with 2 gallons of fuel, connected all the braided lines to the rails and made sure the injectors were in the lower intake snug, then I checked my connections to the FPR and those were good to go. I thought that I would check to see if I was getting fuel back to the FPR and thus to the mechanical fuel gauge so I unscrewed the AN line that goes to the gauge from the FPR and let it hang. I cycled the FP at least 10 times and NO fuel came out of the hose. I took off the vacuum hose from the FPR and turned the screw 3 full turns and still got nothing coming out of the hose. Im not sure what to do next. Do I give the screw a few more turns or do I have a bad FPR??? Im so close guys...I can crank the car and I know I have air and spark, just this fuel thing...soooooo cloooooose. HELP PLEASE!

[liljoe07]

Not real sure. Try a few more turns and see.

[306Guy]

Well...I called summit and explained my situiation and apparently I have my hoses backwards. SO Tomorrow..Im going to switch them and I should be good to go. Hopefully. Thanks Joe and Kenneth for ALL your help.

[liljoe07]

Thats kinda what i was thinking earlier. LOL

[306Guy]

OK...Switched the lines and Im getting a little pressure. Im pretty sure I have to check the line going from the isolator to the gauge. the car still wont start though. She cranks just fine...Im thinking Timing...Ideas?

[liljoe07]

Possibly, but what is "a little pressure"?

Make sure your injectors are pulsing. Use a test light and stick it to the injector connector while you crank and see if it blinks. It should.

If your thinking its timing, just rotate the distributor clockwise some and try again.

[306Guy]

Injectors are pulsing. I checked today. "Little" meaning. The gauge moves to about 5 and thats it. Im thinking I need to fill the fluid in the line that goes from the isolator to the gauge.

[kennethl6]

Have you tried to squirt some fuel the throttle just to see if it starts for a second or two? Have you removed the pressure hose from the fuel rail just to see if fuel is coming out when you turn the ign. on? You shouldn't have to be doing all this pressure regulator adjustments and fuel line swaps. It seems like the pump just isn't working right to me. Again, put the pressure hose in a bucket and see if squirts out.

[snkmug]

Originally Posted by kennethl6

Have you tried to squirt some fuel the throttle just to see if it starts for a second or two? Have you removed the pressure hose from the fuel rail just to see if fuel is coming out when you turn the ign. on? You shouldn't have to be doing all this pressure regulator adjustments and fuel line swaps. It seems like the pump just isn't working right to me. Again, put the pressure hose in a bucket and see if squirts out.

x2 but use carb cleaner, open the tb and give it a good spray...if it starts then u know its fuel related

[liljoe07]

How much gas is actually in the tank? 5 psi on the gauge is not going to do anything.

[306Guy]

Got her started today. I had to turn the dizzy 180* out and she cranked right over. Sounds good too. NEW PROBLEM. Idle is too high..Sitting around 1300. I like it between 800-900. Somewhere around there. Maybe 1000...Maybe. Anyway. I adjusted the TPS to 0.94V, cleaned the AIC Valve and I still have the problem. I checked the TB to see if it was hitting the idle screw and if I could adjust it, but its not even touching the idle screw and the TB is closed. How is this possible...where is the air coming from. I disconnected the Throttle cable and could still start the car and it would idle @ 1300. Im confused. Timing is set at 14*. Should I go to 12*? It dies at 10*. Ideas?

[kennethl6]

I thought you didn't have fuel pressure. Sounds like we were diag. the wrong end of the car. That's the way it is with car stuff. When you get the car idling, pull the IAC wire and see if the idle drops. If it doesn't drop, you have a stuck IAC or more likely a vacumn leak somewhere on the intake. Glad you got it running.

[306Guy]

You were Diagnosing the correct part. My gauge still reads 5psi, but Im pretty sure its because I lost some anti-freeze in the line going to the gauge from the isolator. I just need to fill it back up. I did do a baseline Fuel Pressure, to where it runs. Thanks for all your help. Ill report back later today.

[liljoe07]

Originally Posted by 306Guy

Got her started today. I had to turn the dizzy 180* out and she cranked right over. Sounds good too. NEW PROBLEM. Idle is too high..Sitting around 1300. I like it between 800-900. Somewhere around there. Maybe 1000...Maybe. Anyway. I adjusted the TPS to 0.94V, cleaned the AIC Valve and I still have the problem. I checked the TB to see if it was hitting the idle screw and if I could adjust it, but its not even touching the idle screw and the TB is closed. How is this possible...where is the air coming from. I disconnected the Throttle cable and could still start the car and it would idle @ 1300. Im confused. Timing is set at 14*. Should I go to 12*? It dies at 10*. Ideas?

Time to look for vaccum leaks. If none, then Id look hard at the IAC even though you cleaned it. That doesnt mean its not faulty.

[306Guy]

Cool. Will do. Thanks Joe.

[306Guy]

Checked the IAC...Cleaned it again and did a little diagnosing on it. No vacuum leaks detected. It was all good, however, the TPS was very high, 1.3v. I adjusted it back down to .96 after the engine was warmed up and now Im good to go. I did notice one thing though. When I was running my car and getting it up to operating temp I noticed a "burnt popcorn" type smell coming from under the hood. Cant think of what it could be. I have those spark plug sleeves and painted my headers with high temp silver paint. Im thinking it could maybe be from all the oil on my hands and where I was touching the hot parts...thoughts???

[liljoe07]

Probably just the header paint. Should go away after a few heat cycles.

[306Guy]

Its not the header paint, I ran a few cycles and its still there. im thinking it could be coming from the boot insulator, cause it smells kinda funny. Do you think it could be that the rings didnt set in that cylinder? If that was it, how could the smoke get past the plug???

[306Guy]

OK...Well...I got her running again today. First thing I did was tighten up the header bolts and install the 2 chamber flows so I could hear the engine. Next I pulled the #7 Plug and it was oily...at least thats the way it looked, kinda smelled like a fuel and oil mixture. I then pulled the #1 plug to see what it looked like and it was the same. Pics are below. I started her up and listened to the engine bay. While she was running I can hear a loud whine coming from the Upper Intake (I tapped the spot on the video) dont know what thats coming from. Next I pulled codes and here is what I got:
KOEO:
51 - ECT Sensor out of range (I dont have one installed so that makes sense)
81 - Air driver solenoid failure (Im assuming thats the SMOG pump, which I took off)
82 - Basically the same thing as 81, but this one is for the circuit
84 - EGR (Took it off)
85 - Canister (thats gone as well)

KOER:
51 - Same as above
98 - Hard Fault FMEM Mode (WHAT IS THIS???? )

After the codes ran, the car shut off. I could only restart it if I gave it a lot of gas (pumped the pedal a few times) and then it would only run for a minute or two and then surge and die. Thoughts?? Could it be the EPC thing?
Thanks.

Spark Plug #7:



Video (Quicktime):

[kennethl6]

Code 51 and 98 tells me you need to install a ECT sensor. Why don't you have one? I think you may have said the programmer tuned it out. If so, that doesn't sound right to me. An open ECT will send a signal that the coolant is below zero which will make it run very rich. Isn't that what is happening?

[306Guy]

That is what is happening. I didnt go to the tuner yet..Ill fix this first...where is thew ECT located? Lower intake, right?

[kennethl6]

The stock location is the hole in the right front of lower intake or in the steel heater tube at that position.