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#1 |
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Registered User
Trader Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Elgin, IL
Posts: 430
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Balancer install
I understand the puller for removal on the harmonic balancer or power steering pump pulley...as far as assembly; do these usually push on easily or what is the proper process to re-install? I fugured maybe tap with a brass hammer in the center or a piece of wood and tap on that?
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#2 |
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Registered User
Trader Feedback: (4)
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Spring Branch,Tx
Posts: 474
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Align the keyway slot on the harmonic balancer onto the keyway on the crankshaft. Push the balancer in until it tighten up and it move in anymore.
Now apply some thread sealant or silicon onto the threads of the balance bolt. Screw it in eventually it will start pushing the balancer in. i usually use an impact on it but don't go too crazy with it can damage the crank.
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1987 Mustang LX Coupe ![]() Factory 302 Off-road H-pipe 2 Chamber Flowmasters |
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#3 |
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Registered User
Trader Feedback: (16)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Texas
Posts: 175
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Go rent the harmonic balancer installation tool at the autoparts store. Lubricate the crank snout and the inner part of the balancer with new engine oil. Align the balancer with the keyway on the crank snout. Press on with rental tool. Return tool and get your money back. Easy. DO NOT USE AN IMPACT AND THE CRANK BOLT!
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#4 |
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Registered User
Trader Feedback: (6)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: York, PA
Posts: 1,636
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And don't hammer on it, the crank thrust bearing doesn't like that.
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70 Maverick Grabber, 5.0 (Performer RPM 2.02/1.6 heads, RPM intake, Comp XE266HR roller cam, Holley 650 DP, long headers), "Z" T5 w/Steeda TriAx shifter, 9" "N" case Trac Loc w/3.89:1, 31 spline axles. |
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#5 |
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Moderator & USAF (Retired)
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Tucson AZ
Posts: 13,834
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Best method, especially on a quality piece. Heat the balancer in oven on 350 for about 10 minutes. Use welding gloves, and or bbq mits to slide it onto the crank snout, then use install tool, which will bottom in the crank threads instead of the crank bolt which is trying to pull using only a couple of threads... to pull the balancer down to the seal. A quality piece is an interfearance fit. That way the balancer functions to dampen the vibrations in the crank. If it were a drop on slop fit... hot dog down the hallway syndrome.
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#7 |
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Registered User
Trader Feedback: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 25,711
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Old thread but I just installed my Romac this weekend - and it was a tight fit. Some lessons learned.
1) heat is your friend, but applied judiciously. I don't know what temperature the elastomer in the balancer can deal with, but heating the whole thing much past temps it would see in the engine compartment (or max oil temps) bothers me. So I heated mine to 250F -- and then I used a MAPP gas torch just on the input snout to get some more local heat in it. I also put a baggie of ice on the crank snout to create bit more delta-T. 2) For tight fitting balancers (some are tighter than others) - you've got to get it on at least enough to engage the woodruff key. It may take a good bit of heat on the end of the balancer to do that. You might also find, as I did, that taking a small file and opening up the slot on the balancer just a bit makes it MUCH easier to engage the key. And it won't hurt a thing. 3) A bit of anti-seize to go between the snout and balancer will assure removal at some point. 4) If you don't have/can't find a suitable install tool - all you need is a 3" long 5/8" - 18 thread/inch bolt in Grade 8. The stock bolt won't be nearly long enough to pull the balancer on if you can just barely get it on enough to engage the keyway. The longer bolt and washer will allow you to pull it on 1/2"-3/4' --- and then you can use the factory bolt. Just be sure not to bottom the longer bolt, or screw it in until it runs out of thread. Be sure to use a moly-based lube on the threads for pulling it on. Then back your factory bolt out and put thread sealer on it. Also a bit of RTV on the washer to seal the space between the crank snout, the balancer opening and the bolt. Whatever you do to obtain the longer bolt TAKE YOUR STOCK BOLT WITH YOU AND CHECK THE FIT WITH A NUT. You do not want to cross thread the crank. It will make it a bad day/week/year. 5) 100-120 ft-lbs is a lot of torque. If the motor's in the car and lots of stuff is in the way (my situation) access from the bottom is the only way. Be sure to get the car far up in the air so your torque wrench will clear the ground. Also - be sure the car is secure up in the air. It's amazing how much you can move the car laterally when you apply 100 ft-lbs. to the crank.....
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Michael Yount - Charlotte, NC - 82 Volvo 242 - 5.0L, T5Z, 8.8" rear; 2008 Mini Clubman; 2000 Honda Accord (mother-in-law's car - 19,000 miles....) Last edited by Michael Yount; 02-08-2010 at 01:06 PM. |
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