Dead CPU?? - Page 2

306Guy · 09-30-2009, 09:11 PM

Ok, so I spent about 3 hours going through these fuselinks and rechecking all the grounds as well as trying other things to get the FP relay to trigger. Turns out I missed fuselink N. This is the dark Blue one behind the LH Strut Tower. Mine was cut. I went to the junkyard and got another one. Im going to splice it in and then ill get back. Hopefullt this will work. i also picked up a whole bunch of new relays (donor car) just in case mine are toast from all the circuitry i did. Time will tell...

306Guy · 10-01-2009, 12:00 AM

Ok...Well, it wasnt the fuse link. Car still does the same clicking thing, now im really confused. Im getting power to the "repaired" fuselink N, but still nothing to the EEC Relay with the key in the Run position. Im getting power from the BLK/ORG wires, but nothing else. Any Ideas?

liljoe07 · 10-01-2009, 12:25 AM

Probe the Black/ orange wire and the black/ light green wire with a Volt meter. Red lead to one wire, black lead to the other. See if voltage shows.

Edit: I see you already checked your grounds. You need to trace the 12v switch wire to the ECM relay.

liljoe07 · 10-01-2009, 12:30 AM

What year is the Harness out of?

306Guy · 10-01-2009, 05:15 AM

89

teddyzee · 10-01-2009, 09:34 PM

I would pull the ECU from the main connector, pull all the other connections and relays/components, and check continuity of each circuit. I did that while doing my 5.0 swap to avoid this kind of confusion. Good luck.

306Guy · 10-01-2009, 10:34 PM

and what exactly am I looking for?

liljoe07 · 10-01-2009, 11:27 PM

You just need to trace the 12v switch wire from the ECM relay to the Ignition switch.

It may be easier to run a new wire. IIRC those wires run along the bottom rail of the dash support behind were the Glove box hinge is.

Once the 12v switch for the Relay is fixed, is everything else is fine, it should power up the ECM.

kennethl6 · 10-02-2009, 01:00 PM

306guy it might help if you check voltage at the relay pin positions as I give in the tread date 9, 27 because to colors tend to change year to year. I think you said the ign. sw R/LG wire is hot with key on right? If so, the same R/LG wire on the EEC relay and ign. coil should also be hot with key on, is it? Give us this info before going too much ahead.

306Guy · 10-14-2009, 09:55 PM

UPDATE: Well...I finally got a chance to work on it today. I decided to unhook all the wires around the solenoid and reconnect them with di-electric grease and re-run them so that they are hidden better. While doing this I saw a RD/LT GRN wire that had NO connection and upon testing it, saw that it was HOT. I checked the wiring diagram and somehow this wire was supposed to go to the TFI and Coli, but it was not connected. I spliced it into the Coil wire and checked everything again. No melted wires AND I have power at the ECC Relay, Coil, Ignition switch, Inertia switch, FP Relay and the CPU itself. Problem is that when I turn the key to the start/run position I dont hear the FP priming. Bad FP relay maybe? Also, when I turn to crank it over I get a click at the solenoid AND the ECC Relay. What does that mean? Thanks guys for all your help. ALMOST THERE!!!

n20neenee1 · 10-15-2009, 04:14 PM

Can you take a picture of this connector you just spliced? I have done a few EEC conversions and might lend some light to this because if you had to add power from another location, then I think you still have a problem somewhere

306Guy · 10-15-2009, 06:33 PM

I can tell you pretty accurately: There is a RD/LT GRN wire that has a 20g blue fuse link in front of it. It is located behind the drivers side strut tower. I spliced that wire to the RD/LT GRN wire going INTO the TFI Coil.

liljoe07 · 10-15-2009, 10:35 PM

See the terminal for the Fuel Pump trigger wire? make a Jumper wire and go from that terminal to a good ground. Then see if the pump runs. Check the inertia switch also.

if the pump doesnt run. Keep the trigger wire grounded, then go the Fuel pump relay and check for voltage with the Key on. Should have 3 wires with voltage( 12v or so). Key off, you should only have 1 wire with 12v.

306Guy · 10-16-2009, 06:22 PM

I did as you said and grounded the FP Trigger wire (Tan/Lt Grn) and still no prime. I checked the power to the Inertia switch and I have 12.6 on the Rd/Blk wire and 0 on the plain red going out. At the fuel pump relay I have 4 wires, this is what I got:
Dk Grn/Ylw - 13.3
Rd/Blk - 13.3
Pk/Blk - 0
Tan/Lt Grn - 0

Im guessing I have a short somewhere in the tan.lt grn wire, huh? Thanks.

liljoe07 · 10-16-2009, 08:42 PM

The Tan/light green is the relay ground triggered by the ECM. So it shouldn"t have any voltage.

It could be an open in the wiring. Or a faulty Relay.

Ohm out the Tan/light green wire at the relay(relay unhooked) to the Fuel pump trigger terminal. Im sure youll find the meter register an "OL". More than likely it will be between the ECM and the Relay. Because if the ECM is doing what its supposed to do, then its sending the ground signal to the relay, its just not getting there.

Good Luck

306Guy · 10-16-2009, 09:22 PM

For some reason, I have no clue what you just said. lol. Maybe Im tired...SO...
Tan/Lt Grn should have 0 voltage, so Im good there right?
Pink/Blk SHOULD have 13.0+ with the key in the ON position, correct?

So, what I need to do is trace the Pink.Blk wire back towards the ECU and see where the problem is, Right?

Thanks.

P.S. How do you "Ohm Out?"

kennethl6 · 10-16-2009, 09:36 PM

306guy, what you need to do now is, key on, use a jumper to ground the T/LG wire and see if the PK/BK is hot with a test light. If it's not hot, then it's a bad relay, no question. If it's hot but no pump prime, you have a bad pump, open in the PK/BK wire between the relay and pump or inerta switch if it's an inline series style setup (inerta switch is in series between relay and pump) or the pump ground is open.

liljoe07 · 10-16-2009, 09:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 306Guy

For some reason, I have no clue what you just said. lol. Maybe Im tired...SO...
Tan/Lt Grn should have 0 voltage, so Im good there right?
Pink/Blk SHOULD have 13.0+ with the key in the ON position, correct?

So, what I need to do is trace the Pink.Blk wire back towards the ECU and see where the problem is, Right?

Thanks.

P.S. How do you "Ohm Out?"

Pink black should have voltage.....When the relay engages. The tan/light green is the relay ground. If the relay doesnt recieve a ground signal, it wont shoot voltage to the Pink/black wire. You have to have continuity from the Relay to the ECM for the ECM to control the relay ground.

You can do as kenneth said and ground the tan/light green wire at the relay then see if the pump primes or comes on. If the pump comes on, then its the wiring from the ECM to the Relay that needs to be traced. If it doesnt, then it probably the relay or Pink/black wire as stated by kenneth.

You could also just remove the relay and jump from the dark green/ yellow to the pink black. and if the pump comes on, then you know its not the pink/black circuit or the pump.

kennethl6 · 10-16-2009, 11:14 PM

As liljoe07 said, your almost there. Just check these things at the pump relay, let us know what happens and we'll go from there.

306Guy · 10-18-2009, 05:45 PM

UPDATE: I tried to jump the dk grn/ylw to the pink/blk and the pump did not prime. Then I tried to ground out the tan/lt grn and still nothing. I decided to check the ground wire by reversing the polarity on the test light. I hooked the light up to a positive and checked the fp real. The tan/lt grn showed NO voltage whereas the pink/blk showed 12v. Could this be the problem? Should I try to jump the drk grn/ylw to the tan/lt grn? Trace wires? I'm so confused?

liljoe07 · 10-18-2009, 07:42 PM

Dont jump the drk green/ yellow to the tan/light green.

You have a pump problem it sounds like. Or a wiring problem to the pump.

Going from Pink/black to drk green/ yellow should send power directly to the pump. So pump should come on.

Your going to have to go to the wires in the trunk and find the pink/black wire that goes throught the floor of the trunk. When you do this, remove the Fuel relay, hook a jumper to sending power to the pink/black wire. Then test the pink/ black wire in the trunk for voltage. Let us know.

306Guy · 10-18-2009, 07:45 PM

When I jumped the pink/blk to the grn/ylw the wire got really hot and almost started to melt. Did you see where I said that the pink/blk wire was 12v when I checked for ground? Thats weird huh?

liljoe07 · 10-18-2009, 10:00 PM

Here you go Chris

306Guy · 10-18-2009, 10:11 PM

Joe. i ordered a new 190lph FP, so hopefully this will work out my fuel issue. Question though: Am I going to have to keep the FP Trigger wire grounded somewhere after this problem is fixed or can I disconnect the ground jumper wire and still get 12v at the pink/blk wire?

liljoe07 · 10-18-2009, 10:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 306Guy

Joe. i ordered a new 190lph FP, so hopefully this will work out my fuel issue. Question though: Am I going to have to keep the FP Trigger wire grounded somewhere after this problem is fixed or can I disconnect the ground jumper wire and still get 12v at the pink/blk wire?

As long as the Computer is doing its job. It will control the relay to run the pump and send 12v to the Pink/black wire. So you can remove the Trigger wire. The trigger wire is just for diagnostic purposes.

kennethl6 · 10-18-2009, 11:13 PM

If the jump wire got hot, the PK/BK wire may be shorted to ground or your jump wire was too small. I think you said the PK/BK had 12v when you check grounds but that was with the test light clamped to the pos. cable, correct? If so, it wasn't a valid test. Again, if you jump the T/LG to ground the relay should click and the pink/black should light the test light when the test light hooked up correctly. If the PK/BK doesn't light the test light, the relay is bad. If you jump the PK/BK to Green/Yellow, the pump should come on, if not, bad pump. If the pump doesn't come on and the wire gets real hot, the pump is internally shorted or the wire is shorted going to the pump. By the way liljoe, I answered your PM.

liljoe07 · 10-18-2009, 11:40 PM

Yeah sorry ken I got the PM thanks man, thats some good stuff.

Just to clue you in. Me and 306guy talked on the phone. went throw some things. Relay voltage was fine after I had him drop the tank and unhook the Fuel Pump. Ground the Fuel pump trigger and all voltages at the realy were fine. Pink/black receiving 12v. Problem was the Pump was locked up. Found that out after i had him bench test it. Thus the reason why the wire was getting hot.

Now its a no crank issue. Thus the reason for the starter wiring diagram.

306Guy · 10-19-2009, 12:13 AM

You guys are BOTH Awesome. Now, as soon as I get this FP we can move on to the cranking issue. Check back here in about 3-4 days. Thanks guys. i wouldnt have been able to do this without you.

306Guy · 11-02-2009, 07:59 PM

Well...Finally got the FP in and installed. PERFECT! I put a 255lph in and it works great. Now I have Fuel to the system, next is to tackle the clicking issue. Here is what i did today: I connected the starter as shown in the diagram above (6 posts ago) and still got the single click. I jumped the 2 large terminals on the solenoid with a screwdriver and still get a single click at the starter only. Then jumped the small terminal (red/blue wire) to the battery side terminal and got clicking at the solenoid AND the starter. OK, well...Im confused...what next?? LilJoe, You out there?

kennethl6 · 11-03-2009, 02:01 PM

A click from the starter tells me it's a bad starter or more likely it's wired wrong. Ok are you using an original single wire starter motor or the newer two wire with a sol. attached to the starter? If it's the newer style starter then you have to make a retro wire setup. It's easiest to put the big cable from your fender mounted sol. (not the battery cable side, the other big one) on the big starter/sol. terminal. Then make a jump wire to go from that starter terminal to the smaller terminal on the starter/sol. This make the cable and jumper at the starter hot only when the key is turned to the start position.

306Guy · 11-03-2009, 04:01 PM

OK. Because right now I have it wired like in the pic above (8 posts), so what your saying is I should remove the small wire from the fender solenoid and jumper it the the large post ON on the starter itself and put the large starter wire back on its original post (across from the power post) on the fender solenoid? Ill try it and post up results.

huafist · 11-03-2009, 04:08 PM

He's saying if you have a newer style 2-wire starter that you need to make a small jumper to jump from the solenoid on the starter to the motor, and then run the heavy wire from the motor to the solenoid on the fender just like normal. Don't take the small wire off of the fender solenoid or you'll never get power to the starter.

kennethl6 · 11-03-2009, 05:10 PM

As huafist said, it should be wired just like the way the old style starter was. You only add a short jump wire at the starter motor from the big cable on the big terninal to the small terninal on the starter motor. A 16 gauge wire, 3 inches long with two eye terninals should do it.

liljoe07 · 11-03-2009, 08:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 306Guy

Well...Finally got the FP in and installed. PERFECT! I put a 255lph in and it works great. Now I have Fuel to the system, next is to tackle the clicking issue. Here is what i did today: I connected the starter as shown in the diagram above (6 posts ago) and still got the single click. I jumped the 2 large terminals on the solenoid with a screwdriver and still get a single click at the starter only. Then jumped the small terminal (red/blue wire) to the battery side terminal and got clicking at the solenoid AND the starter. OK, well...Im confused...what next?? LilJoe, You out there?

Been on Vacation. Glad you got the Fuel problem fixed. These guyus have you handled on the starter. We will see. Good Luck

306Guy · 11-05-2009, 04:18 PM

Well...I wired it up the way you said. Still just a single loud click from the starter, nothing from the solenoid. I forgot to mention that Im jumping my car from another running car. I thought it might be the battery, so I tried touching the 2 large posts on the fender solenoid with a screwdriver and when I did, I got the loud click at the starter, but directly after the lights on the inside of the car went out. When I held the screwdriver to the 2 large posts the lights would stay out and when I released they would come back on. Could it be that the battery is not enough to jump my car?