mods

[KickerGT]

would you guys be so kind as to help me some free or cheap mods? iv herd there are some but have yet to find them or how to do them. any info would be great, thanks.

[90lxfox5.0]

Well Dynoed kickers car with a quick tune on a 100% stock 07.


287 hp and 320 tq.
a/f was alittle lean at 13.4 but we ran out of time on the dyno.Put 2 % more fuel in it so the a/f should be perfect at 12.9 to 13.1 and maybe see 295 or so whp.Not bad for 100% stock down to the paper air filter and stock exhaust.

[MrOverkill]

I heard it did 276 stock, good #'s, I still have 2 tunes for him I just need one of your email address and I'll send them for you to try out......

Maybe we can it in a few fun runs? Very even match and I'm sure Joe Joe is down to play as well!!!

[90lxfox5.0]

nope another car there did 276 with lots of bolt ons.But shauns car indeed did 287.I was in awe.....

[jp's performance]

Originally Posted by 90lxfox5.0

Well Dynoed kickers car with a quick tune on a 100% stock 07.


287 hp and 320 tq.
a/f was alittle lean at 13.4 but we ran out of time on the dyno.Put 2 % more fuel in it so the a/f should be perfect at 12.9 to 13.1 and maybe see 295 or so whp.Not bad for 100% stock down to the paper air filter and stock exhaust.

13.4 that a/f is terrible a good a/f would be more like 11.6-12.1 is alot more safe than what you guy's are using.i hate to say it but 320tq from a stock car is BS flywheel mabey but not rwtq.

[rick98gt]

Seems to be leeeaaannn...............BOOM

[90lxfox5.0]

Originally Posted by jp's performance

13.4 that a/f is terrible a good a/f would be more like 11.6-12.1 is alot more safe than what you guy's are using.i hate to say it but 320tq from a stock car is BS flywheel mabey but not rwtq.

You know i dont even know what to say,you must not tune cars ha.Otherewise you would realize that on a n/a car your target a/f is between 12.7 to 13.1.
Yes i said his car was a bit lean but the sample was taken after cat not before so in all actuality it was at about 13.1 before the cat.Again a bit lean but ford sends them out leaner then that bud.Now on a blown car or a nitrous car hell ya thats lean but not on a low comp ratio n/a car.Please go back and do your homework before you tell me how to tune chief.You check a/f on any good tune on a car and i bet you money you will see 12.8 to 13.1.


And i can print out the dyno sheet or kicker can post it.Dont hate buddy.

[90lxfox5.0]

Just so you guys know,a unsafe a/f on a car with less then 10 to 1 comp ratio is well into the 14s.if its high comp ratio and its on pump then no leaner then 12.6 to 1
any power adder car will be in the 10.8 to 11.2 range on pump.

I have dynoed COUNTLESS new cars like vettes and mustangs camaros,and when they are stock you will see 12.8 to 14.0 and they live like that for years.....


Ive owned plenty of n/a pump gas cars with a/f of 12.8 to 13.1 and never hurt one ever.**** my driver is a 1986 stang with hci and bottle.On the motor a/f is12.9 and on the bottle its 10.7 on pump gas and has never hurt ****.Thats why i think you guys are not tuners because you dont know what is going on,you just read **** of a internet board and think you know everything.

[Black Muscle 06]

there are no "real free mods" out there. these cars dont have any real hidden secrets to them, u have to spend money and lots of it to get a lil something for performance. here is a list of some mods that u might consider if u dont want massive power gains from a big power adder like S/C, turbo, NO2: http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=881232

[jp's performance]

Originally Posted by 90lxfox5.0

You know i dont even know what to say,you must not tune cars ha.Otherewise you would realize that on a n/a car your target a/f is between 12.7 to 13.1.
Yes i said his car was a bit lean but the sample was taken after cat not before so in all actuality it was at about 13.1 before the cat.Again a bit lean but ford sends them out leaner then that bud.Now on a blown car or a nitrous car hell ya thats lean but not on a low comp ratio n/a car.Please go back and do your homework before you tell me how to tune chief.You check a/f on any good tune on a car and i bet you money you will see 12.8 to 13.1.


And i can print out the dyno sheet or kicker can post it.Dont hate buddy.

your right i don't tune my car,but i do everything else but the tuning.just to let you know chris johnson yes the owner of sct tunes my 05 gt so don't tell me i have no clue,and my a/f is between 11.6-11.8.i'm done no need to play kid games everybody has there own opinion.

[MrOverkill]

Actually your target A/F should be 12.8-13.2:1 on an N/A engine, he is 100% correct. We both do this for a living and have VAST tuning knowledge coupled with years of experience. We also both own or have owned 8 Second street driven cars....

If your A/F is in the 11's and its N/A you still have more power left on the table, thats not to say your tune not a very safe one. I'm not tring to get in a pissing contest buy facts are facts, and the fact is the A/F you posted is not tuned for max power its tuned more for safety and longevity...

If it's blown that's a whole different story......

[90lxfox5.0]

And 13.1 is totally safe and would never ever ever be a problem EVER on a n/a motor.Again unless its some 15 to 1 ****er that you are tring to run on pump gas or something....

[Glenn]

Running richer than ~13:1 on a NA engine with about 9:1 - 10:1 compression only wastes fuel and does not add any power or longevity. My track car has 13:1 AFR at WOT and puts down 320/324 with no issues whatsoever.

[90lxfox5.0]

Werd^^^^^^^


My 86 hci car puts down the exact same numbers with the exact same a/f with 150k.....Again i tune cars for a living i think i know what im doing......

[WizardBlack]

Originally Posted by jp's performance

your right i don't tune my car,but i do everything else but the tuning.just to let you know chris johnson yes the owner of sct tunes my 05 gt so don't tell me i have no clue,and my a/f is between 11.6-11.8.i'm done no need to play kid games everybody has there own opinion.

Your car is boosted. Your A/F targets are correct for a boosted car. (11.0~12.2)

These cars are N/A. That A/F is way too rich for N/A. An A/F of 13.0~13.5 is very close to ideal for many N/A cars.

[Glenn]

Just another data point on cheap mods that make a difference. I upgraded my stock Pirelli P-Zero Nero tires (POS) to Kumho MX 275-40 on a set of 17x9" wheels and the car handled much better. Grip was so much better in a straight line that I started experiencing severe wheel hop.

I bought a set of these control ams for like $115 shipped and they worked great. I almost totally eliminated wheel hop on launch and the 1-2 shift and dropped another .15 seconds off my best ET to date. My short time went from a best of 1.97 to a 1.87 with an ET of 12.9. A very good mod for money spent.

[WizardBlack]

Originally Posted by Glenn

Just another data point on cheap mods that make a difference. I upgraded my stock Pirelli P-Zero Nero tires (POS) to Kumho MX 275-40 on a set of 17x9" wheels and the car handled much better. Grip was so much better in a straight line that I started experiencing severe wheel hop.

I bought a set of these control ams for like $115 shipped and they worked great. I almost totally eliminated wheel hop on launch and the 1-2 shift and dropped another .15 seconds off my best ET to date. My short time went from a best of 1.97 to a 1.87 with an ET of 12.9. A very good mod for money spent.

I looked at the link showing the control arms you installed. I am a student of engineering, but call me crazy, I don't see how the ball portion of the bushings is actually articulating at all. It looks like it would act like a normal cylindrical bushing with a bit of material taken out (by way of being multipiece) for "compliance". They have some nice looking prices, but I am leery of using aluminum since it has no minimum level of force to start creating stress on the metal.

[Glenn]

Originally Posted by WizardBlack

I looked at the link showing the control arms you installed. I am a student of engineering, but call me crazy, I don't see how the ball portion of the bushings is actually articulating at all. It looks like it would act like a normal cylindrical bushing with a bit of material taken out (by way of being multipiece) for "compliance". They have some nice looking prices, but I am leery of using aluminum since it has no minimum level of force to start creating stress on the metal.

The ball portion does not articulate. I'm not a student of engineering but I know how it works.

If your axle only moved up and down, no problem, but it doesn't move only up and down. When your car goes into roll the control arms move in opposite directions so they have to twist with the axle to prevent bind. If the bushing were solid and made of the high durometer material it would be very difficult for the arms to twist in roll, in other words it would bind. The two outer pieces of the bushings are very soft and allow the control arm to twist around the round harder portion. So, you get good control fore and aft while allowing the axle to twist when in roll.

Oh, and the arms are made from steel, not aluminum, so no problem with strength.

[gloryboy]

Only free mod i know of it to pull that catalytic converter looking thing out of your air intake tube. Should help your airflow a bit.........

[WizardBlack]

Originally Posted by Glenn

The ball portion does not articulate. I'm not a student of engineering but I know how it works.

If your axle only moved up and down, no problem, but it doesn't move only up and down. When your car goes into roll the control arms move in opposite directions so they have to twist with the axle to prevent bind. If the bushing were solid and made of the high durometer material it would be very difficult for the arms to twist in roll, in other words it would bind. The two outer pieces of the bushings are very soft and allow the control arm to twist around the round harder portion. So, you get good control fore and aft while allowing the axle to twist when in roll.

Oh, and the arms are made from steel, not aluminum, so no problem with strength.

RE: How they work: Oh, I see. I totally missed the variation in durometeric ratings.
RE: Material: Again, the same thing. I looked at their other offerings and saw their panhard rod and race control arms were aluminum and totally had a brain fart about the control arms. Very tempting in the end. I may have to snag a set.