How to replace a power steering pump shaft seal and disassemble a rack. - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
Go Back   Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum > General Tech Forums > Road Racing/Auto X

Corral.net is the premier Ford Mustang Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 03-23-2010, 06:03 AM   #1
Registered User
 
Marlin's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (29)
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Silverdale, WA
Posts: 6,274
Blog Entries: 1

How to replace a power steering pump shaft seal and disassemble a rack.

Okay first of all I am not a hydraulic expert. I decided to post this since I saw several people who asked how to replace seals in Rack and pinion. I didn’t know myself and since I have a rack that leaks I was curious if it was feasible. A couple of notes. The Ford shop manual is absolutely necessary for reassembly. There are several critical torque specs and preload. Plus the shop manual has a wonderful exploded view and a step by step procedure for this. I didn’t post the reassembly since I am not performing it.


The rack and pump pictured are trash. I can’t return them for core since the core charge is less than the shipping cost. They will be thrown away. Since they are garbage I didn't bother cleaning them since rags and cleaning stuff cost me a lot of money and I have difficulty disposing of them. I just want to stress that cleanliness is next to godliness with respect to hydraulic systems. Make sure the pump, and rack are pristine before you disassemble.

I lightly tapped some of the parts out but I don’t know if I would feel comfortable tapping the pinion out on a rack I was going to reuse. Also since I don't have the pinion shaft holding fixture I have to apply torque against the rack. Interestingly one of the inner tie rods on this rack had over a ΒΌ” of play. And this rack had metal shavings, dirt, and debris. I feel very comfortable replacing the pump shaft seals and I am going to do that on my new pump. It is only $5 or so at Rock Auto. The rack seal kit is $26 but based on the fact I removed the pinion I don’t know how I feel about replacing them and reassembling the rack and getting to work leak free on the first try. I also made no attempt to remove the various bearings.

The victims. I am not even sure where the pump came from. I didn’t even know I had it. This was going to be a rack only thread but hey why not.




The seal is protected by a bushing/cover. It comes off pretty easy. I used a screwdriver and very lightly tapped and pryed it off. Don't put any pressure on the shaft and don't hammer. A small puller would work perfect here since there is a lip.




Bushing




The seal with the bushing removed.




I drilled two holes with a small drill bit, inserted a small screw, and them used pliers to pull out the seal. Only one hole was necessary.










I went a little deep with the drill or the screw and nicked the housing. The metal shavings in the pump bearing are a mistake on my part and must be removed or failure will result.



For reassembly just tap in the new seal, with lubricant, and reinstall the bushing.
__________________
1993 Tangerine Orange GT
1992 Mustang GT
1990 LX Hatch
1993 Coyote swap SSP Notch

Last edited by Marlin; 03-23-2010 at 09:11 AM.
Marlin is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 03-23-2010, 06:21 AM   #2
Registered User
 
Marlin's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (29)
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Silverdale, WA
Posts: 6,274
Blog Entries: 1

Onto the rack.

I divide this into 4 parts. The pinion, yoke, and rivers tie rod must be removed to remove the rack. You could leave the pass inner tie rods on but why. The rack pull out the pass side of the housing.

1. Remove inner tie rods.
2. Remove yoke.
3. Remove pinion
4. Remove rack.

Tools used.

-Hammer
-Snap ring pliers
-Chisel to put lip in rivet heads
-Punch to drive out pinion shaft.
-Large wrenches or big Crescent wrench ( Iused a 15" crescent wrench).
-Pliers to pull out rivets.
-something to insert into the rack bushing to turn against. I used a large prybar.




Remove inner tie rods.

The rack.




Pulled the boots. Any rips or tears are unacceptable and will result in dirt getting into the rack seals and causing leaks.




Close up of inner tie rod. Notice the rivet. The rivet is aluminium and is very soft. I used a chisel, made a lip to grab with pliers and pulled it right out.




Rivet removed.




Removing the inner tie rod.




Repeat for other side.
__________________
1993 Tangerine Orange GT
1992 Mustang GT
1990 LX Hatch
1993 Coyote swap SSP Notch
Marlin is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-23-2010, 06:27 AM   #3
Registered User
 
Marlin's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (29)
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Silverdale, WA
Posts: 6,274
Blog Entries: 1

Onto the yoke.

The yoke's purpose is to provide preload the rack. I assume this is to provide a minimum torque value before the rack will move to prevent drift if the valve is not perfectly balanced.

The lock nut was very tight but the yoke holder itself was not.



Lock nut removed. In the process of removing yoke holder.




Pic of lock nut, yoke holder, spring, yoke. from left to right.




View down yoke hole. That is the rack that is visible.



Use the procedure in the shop manual to tighten this. Do not overtighten this.
__________________
1993 Tangerine Orange GT
1992 Mustang GT
1990 LX Hatch
1993 Coyote swap SSP Notch
Marlin is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-23-2010, 06:40 AM   #4
Registered User
 
Marlin's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (29)
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Silverdale, WA
Posts: 6,274
Blog Entries: 1

On to the pinion.

There are two parts of this I don't feel comfortable with.

1. I had to remove the pinion locknut by applying torque against the end of the rack travel.
2. I had to hammer the pinion out of the housing using a punch.

Now for #1 you could probably use an old rag joint to avoid this. For number two you are probably stuck getting the tool. You also have to put it back in.

First remove this dust cap.




Pic of dust cap removed.




Pic of pinion shaft retaining nut. It is partially removed here. I forgot to take a pic. I had to turn the nut against the rack stop to loosen it. I don't like doing that.



Then you have to remove the dust seal on the steering shaft end. It just pries right off.Then remove the snap ring.




Pic of dust seal removed.




Pic of snap ring.




Once the snap ring is removed you just tap the shaft out from the bottom. As mentioned before I had to use more force than I would have liked to get it out.


Housing with pinion reomved.




Pics of the pinion removed.




__________________
1993 Tangerine Orange GT
1992 Mustang GT
1990 LX Hatch
1993 Coyote swap SSP Notch

Last edited by Marlin; 03-23-2010 at 07:00 AM.
Marlin is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-23-2010, 06:56 AM   #5
Registered User
 
Marlin's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (29)
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Silverdale, WA
Posts: 6,274
Blog Entries: 1

Onto the rack.

The rack pulls out the pass side. The snap ring that retains it is on the pass side.




Pics of snap ring removed.




Rack pulled.




Pic of rack. The pass side rack seal comes out. The driver's side stayed in the housing.




Pass side busing, rack seal with holder, and O-ring.




Driver's side of rack. It is hard to see but there is a large amount of foreign material deposited here.




Pass side seal holder with seal installed. These are seals that I want to replace in my AGR rack.






I didn't remove the driver's side seal but the book says it just pushes out. I forget to get it out and I am all cleaned up now.
__________________
1993 Tangerine Orange GT
1992 Mustang GT
1990 LX Hatch
1993 Coyote swap SSP Notch
Marlin is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-23-2010, 09:01 AM   #6
Registered User
 
huesmann's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (5)
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: DC burbs, MD side
Posts: 6,666

Nice pics. Some of this stuff would probably have been easier to disassemble with the rack still on the car, like the tie rods.
huesmann is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-23-2010, 10:31 AM   #7
Moderator
 
Oktavius's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (0)
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Pensacola, FL
Posts: 5,907

Awesome! Thank you for the write up!
__________________
Tim ||||||| ||||||| |||||||
07 Subie Impreza - DD
92 GT SSP
XBL: Zexterr

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk
Oktavius is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-23-2010, 01:24 PM   #8
Registered User
 
mlanoux's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (9)
 
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: New Orleans, LA USA
Posts: 588

sticky, anyone???
mlanoux is online now  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-23-2010, 02:55 PM   #9
Registered User
 
Jack Hidley's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (4)
 
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Danville, CA USA
Posts: 1,919

One recommendation. When removing the inner tie rod, don't hold the rack housing. You are imprinting the pinion gear on the rack teeth when you do this.

Instead rotate the input shaft until the rack has extended out the end of the housing nearest the tie rod you are changing, as far as possible. Place a large Crescent wrench over the rack itself. One side of the wrench will be on the curved section of the rack, the other side will be on the face of the rack teeth. Now turn the nut to remove the inner tie rod.
__________________
Jack Hidley
Maximum Motorsports Tech Support
Jack Hidley is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-26-2010, 08:01 PM   #10
Registered User

Trader Feedback: (0)
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Newark, De
Posts: 255

OK, I just disassembled my original 95 rack. There does not appear to be a bushing or seal on the drivers side. The shaft has play on the drivers end. I am lost. Does anyone have an exploded view of the rack?
__________________
1995 Mustang V6 Coupe--Sold
1999 F250 4x4 V10
Detailer_Dave is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-26-2010, 08:16 PM   #11
Registered User
 
Marlin's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (29)
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Silverdale, WA
Posts: 6,274
Blog Entries: 1

__________________
1993 Tangerine Orange GT
1992 Mustang GT
1990 LX Hatch
1993 Coyote swap SSP Notch
Marlin is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-26-2010, 09:15 PM   #12
Registered User

Trader Feedback: (0)
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Newark, De
Posts: 255

Thanks. It doesnt look like there is a removeable bushing or seal on the driver's end. I think the rack rides in the housing at the driver end, and the spring loaded plastic slipper pushes the rack against the pinion, keeping gear mesh tight. Looks like planned obsolescence, wear out the housing.
__________________
1995 Mustang V6 Coupe--Sold
1999 F250 4x4 V10
Detailer_Dave is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-26-2010, 09:31 PM   #13
Registered User
 
Marlin's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (29)
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Silverdale, WA
Posts: 6,274
Blog Entries: 1

I will stress this again. You must have a Ford a manual to reassemble this. Taking apart a rack that is junk is one thing but you must follow the procedures outlined in the Ford manual fro reassembly or you will be screwed.


Okay the driver's side seal sucks. I got it out but in the process I damaged the housing which makes this rack junk. It is no longer even a good core. Of course I don't acre but you really need the correct tool or maybe a expanding jaw slide hammer. If you slip while driving out the seal and score the housing the housing is junk. I also think I could build a purpose built tool that was a "L" that would get it out.

I deliberately didn't post how I got the seal out because I would never do it on a rack I cared about.

A shot of the seal installed. This is looking in the pass end. I had trouble getting a decent pic.




The screwdriver handle is sitting is the approximate location of the driver's side seal.




The remains of the seal. Yes it is a one piece seal. I destroyed it getting it out.



The problem is the bore, viewed from the drivers side, has a necked down piece with a lip on both ends. When I first went to remove the seal I accidentally hammered on this lip. The seal, like most seals, has an outer part made out of metal, an inner rubber piece, and a spring to hold the rubber tight. Due to the seal being in the middle and the necked piece in front of it it is impossible to hammer the seal out using a screwdriver from behind. All it does is rip the rubber part of the seal off. You must have a method of getting between the seal and the necked down piece of the housing.

Excuse the horrible drawing.



#1 Metal part of seal
#2 Housing
#3 Rubber part of seal
#4 Necked down part of rack
__________________
1993 Tangerine Orange GT
1992 Mustang GT
1990 LX Hatch
1993 Coyote swap SSP Notch
Marlin is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-26-2010, 09:36 PM   #14
Registered User
 
Marlin's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (29)
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Silverdale, WA
Posts: 6,274
Blog Entries: 1

Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailer_Dave View Post
Thanks. It doesnt look like there is a removeable bushing or seal on the driver's end. I think the rack rides in the housing at the driver end, and the spring loaded plastic slipper pushes the rack against the pinion, keeping gear mesh tight. Looks like planned obsolescence, wear out the housing.
The seal for the driver's side is #15 is the exploded view. I think 13 and 14 are also for the driver's side.
__________________
1993 Tangerine Orange GT
1992 Mustang GT
1990 LX Hatch
1993 Coyote swap SSP Notch
Marlin is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-26-2010, 09:44 PM   #15
Registered User

Trader Feedback: (0)
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Newark, De
Posts: 255

I saw what you are describing in the housing. I didnt mess with it at the moment, I was getting tired.I didnt have a light handy either.
__________________
1995 Mustang V6 Coupe--Sold
1999 F250 4x4 V10
Detailer_Dave is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-26-2010, 10:11 PM   #16
Registered User

Trader Feedback: (0)
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Newark, De
Posts: 255

13 and 14 go on the ring, on the rack, in illustration, just above the item number 12. I think it is a poor design to have the driver side unsupported, except to push against the pinion shaft under spring tension. It allows the rack to flex and move away from center line of pinion, and inducing gear backlash, resulting in free play at the steering wheel.
__________________
1995 Mustang V6 Coupe--Sold
1999 F250 4x4 V10
Detailer_Dave is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-27-2010, 01:56 PM   #17
Moderator
 
Oktavius's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (0)
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Pensacola, FL
Posts: 5,907

Out of the 5-6 racks that I have killed, all leaked on the passenger's side. Hopefully this will continue to be the case and I will just skip replacing that driver's side seal.
__________________
Tim ||||||| ||||||| |||||||
07 Subie Impreza - DD
92 GT SSP
XBL: Zexterr

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk
Oktavius is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-27-2010, 07:33 PM   #18
Registered User
 
Marlin's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (29)
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Silverdale, WA
Posts: 6,274
Blog Entries: 1

Detailer_Dave what exactly has play in your rack? I could be talked into sending the guts of this rack to you for for free if you pay for shipping ($20-$30 bucks)
__________________
1993 Tangerine Orange GT
1992 Mustang GT
1990 LX Hatch
1993 Coyote swap SSP Notch
Marlin is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-27-2010, 10:19 PM   #19
Registered User

Trader Feedback: (6)
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 359

paging Dr. Hidley

I wonder what exactly causes these end seals to fail?? And is this problem only exclusive to reman racks--it seems that Ford racks hold up better, no?

Does the MM power steering kit really increase the longevity of the seals due to lower line pressure?

How can the average guy have race car steering without having pink puddles under his car every other month
__________________
91 notch, 3000#, Astro T-5, Dart 10.5:1 331, RPM2, AFR 185, custom cam, Max Motorsports, StopTech
redb*tch is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-04-2010, 11:31 AM   #20
Registered User

Trader Feedback: (0)
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Newark, De
Posts: 255

Sorry for the delay in replying. I took my old rack apart, but left the seal inside intact, lol. The rack had too much free play in the steering wheel, but only when engine is running. I replaced the rack with another used one, and it seems to be the same way. Tie rod ends are tight, I replaced struts and ball joints, but it didnt make much difference. I am beginning to wonder if actual issues arent in the PS valving in the input shaft. The steering has no play at all with engine off, and no slop when front wheels are off the ground either. I do know I am not happy with the front end wander, and I hope if I replace the rack with a rebuilt unit, it will cure that.
__________________
1995 Mustang V6 Coupe--Sold
1999 F250 4x4 V10
Detailer_Dave is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-09-2010, 08:07 PM   #21
Registered User
 
Marlin's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (29)
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Silverdale, WA
Posts: 6,274
Blog Entries: 1

Some related threads.

03/04 rack in a fox
Parts List Required For 2003 - 2004 Cobra Rack Install In A Foxbody

How to re clock steering rack. Show some important reassembly steps.
http://home.comcast.net/~jfeit/hoste...rackclock.html
Marlin is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-09-2010, 12:32 PM   #22
Registered User

Trader Feedback: (0)
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: West Springfield, MA
Posts: 203

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack Hidley View Post
One recommendation. When removing the inner tie rod, don't hold the rack housing. You are imprinting the pinion gear on the rack teeth when you do this.

Instead rotate the input shaft until the rack has extended out the end of the housing nearest the tie rod you are changing, as far as possible. Place a large Crescent wrench over the rack itself. One side of the wrench will be on the curved section of the rack, the other side will be on the face of the rack teeth. Now turn the nut to remove the inner tie rod.
Jack, will the rack extend far enough on the passenger side to allow the wrench to grab the teeth? It looks like one side will only expose the round portion of the rack.

Thanks for the photos and detailed disassembly!
__________________
2001 BMW Dinan 540i
1989 Lincoln Mark VII LSC
1986 Lincoln Mark VII LSC
1985 Lincoln Continental
ND4SPDLSC is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-09-2010, 11:11 PM   #23
Registered User

Trader Feedback: (6)
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 359

Quote:
Originally Posted by ND4SPDLSC View Post
Jack, will the rack extend far enough on the passenger side to allow the wrench to grab the teeth? It looks like one side will only expose the round portion of the rack.
Its only the one side that you grab the teeth from
__________________
91 notch, 3000#, Astro T-5, Dart 10.5:1 331, RPM2, AFR 185, custom cam, Max Motorsports, StopTech
redb*tch is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-10-2010, 12:14 AM   #24
Registered User
 
Jack Hidley's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (4)
 
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Danville, CA USA
Posts: 1,919

Yes, you can only grab the rack across the teeth from one side, but you can still hold it on one side to remove or install either inner tie rod.
__________________
Jack Hidley
Maximum Motorsports Tech Support
Jack Hidley is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-12-2010, 02:17 AM   #25
Registered User
 
Moving Target's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (0)
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Canada
Posts: 1,241

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack Hidley View Post
Yes, you can only grab the rack across the teeth from one side, but you can still hold it on one side to remove or install either inner tie rod.
That's exactly how I changed the outer tie rod ends on my car's rack when I went to the SN95 spindles.

Interesting thread though I doubt I'll ever attempt to change out any of the seals.
Moving Target is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:22 PM.



Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.5.2
© 2010-2011 Corral.net

Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.