Ultimate NOS 05115 Dry thread - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 144 Old 04-05-2006, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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Ultimate NOS 05115 Dry thread

As much as I regret to do this, I am going to take down my project website on mustang nitrous. This is after a general lack of support from many of the big name nitrous companies. With that said, I didnt want all the info I worked on to go to waste. I compiled a TON of info on the NOS dry 05115 kit. Enjoy.

Overview:
As the advent of fuel injection set upon the automotive industry several changes began to take place. Carbureted intake manifolds were designed from the ground up to flow not only air, but fuel as well. This meant that carbureted nitrous systems had no major drawback by simply throwing fuel, and nitrous down the intake manifold to achieve the desired horsepower. Sequential EFI on the other hand, posed a slight challenge. EFI intakes are designed to only flow air, as the fuel is added just before the intake port of the head. While some people were having mixed results making their little EFI mills chug nitrous via a wet kit, NOS had a better idea. If there were some way to let the injectors add the extra fuel, by just spraying nitrous by itself down the EFI intake it will allow the intake to operate as it was designed to with a dry intake charge.

There are only two ways to do this on an EFI vehicle. The first is to increase the fuel pressure, and the second is to increase the pulse width, or time that the fuel injectors are open. Since EFI fuel pressure regulators work on a 1:1 ratio with fuel and boost, or air pressure, increasing fuel pressure seemed like the logical approach. By placing 1 lb of boost on the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator, fuel pressure will be raised by 1 PSI. With this method, once it was determined just how much fuel pressure would be needed for a given nitrous shot size, pressure could be placed on the fuel pressure regulator to make it reach that particular point. Nitrous oxide is typically at 900-1000 PSI in the bottle. Naturally this would be far too much pressure to place on a fuel pressure regulator and would instantly burst the diaphragm inside the regulator. Since 1987 NOS had been hard at work on a device to get 1000 PSI down to a more usable 50 PSI. The device is little more than a mechanical servo unit.

While working at NOS, Mike Nelson soon saw the potential a setup like this could have and went to work perfecting the dry kit. Unlike many generic wet kits, the NOS-05115 actually began life from the ground up as a 5.0 Mustang specific kit. Once the regulator was in place it was realized that for adjustability, a bleed off tee must be incorporated. The bleed off tee basically serves no other function than to control the amount of pressure being placed on the fuel pressure regulator. A larger jet will yield more bleed off, and thereby less fuel pressure, while a smaller jet would create less bleed off, more pressure on the fuel regulator and ultimately more fuel. This makes the fuel or nitrous tee side of the jetting exactly opposite of a normal wet nitrous kit. Bigger jets supply less fuel while smaller jet sizes supply more fuel.

Now that the fuel side was ironed out, the only thing left to do was inject the nitrous oxide into the intake tract. Of course NOS went above and beyond by installing a vital safety feature in this kit. The NOS-05115 uses not one, but two nitrous solenoids. As the nitrous system is activated, the first solenoid opens up and begins flowing nitrous through the nitrous regulator. As the fuel pressure begins to spike, it triggers a "hobbs" or fuel pressure switch at about 55 PSI. This switch then activates the second solenoid which allows nitrous to flow through the nozzle and into the intake tract. The fact that the second solenoid simply cannot function without fuel pressure at or above 55 PSI makes this kit the safest kit on the market to use. As an added benefit, since the fuel pressure is raised and then nitrous is injected into the intake manifold independent of each other your engine starts out running rich, and is then leaned out by the induced nitrous oxide. A wet kit many times will go from lean to rich as a result of a few factors, the first being that when the fuel solenoid is opened it basically acts as a hole in the fuel system and momentarily drops fuel pressure a bit. The second reason is that fuel pressure is generally 40 PSI and nitrous should be 1000. As the two solenoids open in a wet kit, the nitrous usually wins the drag race and is injected slightly before the fuel. Some wet kit users raise fuel pressure and/or place a longer line to the nitrous nozzle to try and combat these ill effects.

Probably the safest feature of any dry kit is that you simply do not mess with raw fuel. Instead of running aftermarket fuel lines you let the OEM fuel system handle the vital job of injecting fuel. There is no need to tap into your fuel system for anything other than a place to mount your fuel pressure switch; although a fuel pressure guage you can see from your seat is a great idea. There is no need to worry about a fuel solenoid malfunction causing your nitrous injection to go lean, or worse yet activate without the nitrous causing a fuel puddle in your manifold. As a personal experience, the latter example burnt one of my cars to the ground and is what initially drew me to dry nitrous injection.

Because the nitrous regulator and the main nitrous feed nozzle are both fed from the same bottle, yet another benefit of this kit is realized. As your bottle pressure decreases the amount of fuel injected decreases proportionately to the amount of nitrous injected. Regardless of what Zex nitrous claims, this makes the NOS dry kit the first system to "tune itself" based on bottle pressure. Since its début a few years ago, many people have disasembled the lavender "control unit" to the Zex dry system and find nothing more than a single nitrous solenoid attached to a nitrous distribution block. As the nitrous block is put under pressure, a non-adjustable bleed hole feeds nitrous to your fuel pressure regulator. By using the same basic principals of the NOS-05115 kit Zex has simply placed a much more primitive system in a dressier self contained package. Aside from the inability to tune the fuel pressure with this kit, there are two more major draw backs with this system. Since the Zex system lacks a nitrous regulator like NOS kit uses, the initial fuel pressure spike is very high and can damage your stock fuel system. Initial pressure spikes as high as 125 PSI have been measured with this kit. The worst feature of this kit, and perhaps the most ironic as Zex claims to be "The Worlds Safest Nitrous System" is the lack of a pressure safety switch. Without this switch in place, as soon as the nitrous pressure is sent to your fuel pressure regulator it is simultaneously released through the nozzle into your intake. There is no delay for the fuel pressure to rise, or confirmation that the fuel pressure has risen to safe levels. The nitrous oxide is just injected into your intake tract on blind faith.

Since the introduction of the 5115 kit, it has gone from a simple 75 HP pick me up to a fully adjustable 75-150 HP system. The mustang crowd has been using this system for years with great results. After the principals of this kit were understood, it didn't take long for some guys to throw in larger fuel injectors and start running some really big nitrous shots. The small nitrous solenoids supplied with the kit and the tee that connects them will only support about 175 HP worth of nitrous. Upgrade your fuel injectors, nitrous solenoids and connection tee and you are knocking on 200 HP with proper jetting. The -3 nitrous nozzle line, the nitrous nozzle itself and even the -4 feed lines start standing in the way of power production shortly there after, but with modifications or upgrades, the sky is the limit with this kit. On the west coast a select few were throwing huge injectors on their cars with these hybrid kits and making insane power. Mike Nelson recalls customers using this method to make so much power that they were literally tearing the hides off their tires at 50 MPH in 4th gear on the highway with their daily driven street Mustangs. It is no surprise that this is the method Mike suggested to NMRA Real Street competitor Bruce Hemminger when he called Mike for advice after getting frustrated from nitrous backfires with his wet setup. This setup soon proved to be the method for reliable big nitrous shots through a single nozzle and all other nitrous competitors in this class soon followed suit. Since the late 80's methods of altering the stock mustang computer have came a long way. Instead of using the trusty NOS nitrous regulator to increase fuel pressure, many racers now rely on programming to increase the injector pulse width under nitrous use with these huge kits. This has been so successful that Anderson Ford Motorsport now markets dry kits capable of over 400 HP using this method with their PMS engine management.

It is important to note the drawbacks of this kit , even though they are few and far between. Since the kit increases fuel pressure to to add more fuel, some people have had the rubber line that connects the two fuel rails together rupture under this pressure. This phenomenon seems to be exception rather than the norm. The biggest drawback with a dry system is the fuel and nitrous mixture itself. Since stock fuel injectors with elevated pressure are used to supply the fuel, the ammount of fuel is nearly identical from cylinder to cylinder. EFI intake manifolds, and ford manifolds in particular are notorious for uneven distribution of air. Since the nitrous and fuel dont combine until they are actually entering the cylinder head, this causes an uneven mixture to enter each cylinder causing some cylinders to run rich while others go slightly lean. For street applications you will not notice this and the variations will be so small that they arent worth mentioning, but on bigger shots distribution can be a problem with these kits. Dry kits also do not "hit" as hard as wet kits initially because they start rich and allow the nitrous to lean out the mixture. This can sometimes be an advantage, however, as traction will be severely limited in most instances on nitrous oxide.

The NOS-05115 dry kit has proven its worth for over a decade now. From illegal street racing folklore to nationally sanctioned events it is by far the safest, and most potent way to give your mustang nitrous injection. At home on a daily driven street car or a 650 HP race car, the principals behind this kit have been imitated time and time again. A cult icon, and a legend in the making this little NOS kit is just as popular now as when it was first released. Up to 150 HP the ultra safe kit works perfectly, and this makes it a simple and effective choice for your daily driven mustang.


Last edited by Supernatural; 04-07-2006 at 07:59 AM.
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post #2 of 144 Old 04-05-2006, 09:11 PM Thread Starter
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NOS 511Jet Charts:

These charts are based off of a combination of NOS tech information and information from individual users. Actual jets needed may vary from combination to combination.

Fuel jets go in the bypass tee, NOS jet goes in the actual nitrous nozzle.

You will notice that the fuel jet goes down in size with the bigger shots; this is because unlike wet kits the smaller the bypass jet, the more pressure is put on the fuel regulator and the more fuel added.

*Kits over 150 HP must use the .040 shim in the regulator, it is a good idea to use the shim with all size shots, especially over 125HP as it increases fuel pressure by about 15 PSI.

19LB (stock) Injectors (orange top)
59 fuel/ 42 NOS = 75 HP
53 fuel/ 47 NOS = 100 HP OR 100HP 49F 55N
42 fuel/ 59 NOS = 125 HP
42 fuel/ 67 NOS = 150 HP *
42 fuel/ 73 NOS = 175 HP* (this is the max that the stock solenoids will flow).

24 LB Injectors (light blue top)
63 fuel/ 42 NOS = 75 HP
57 fuel/ 47 NOS = 100 HP
51 fuel/ 55 NOS = 125 HP
45 fuel/ 67 NOS = 150 HP*
42 fuel/ 73 NOS = 175 HP* (this is the max that the stock solenoids will flow)

30LB Injectors (red top)
67 fuel/ 42 NOS = 75 HP
63 fuel/ 47 NOS = 100 HP
61 fuel/ 55 NOS = 125 HP
53 fuel/ 67 NOS = 150 HP*
45 fuel/ 73 NOS = 175 HP* (this is the max that the stock solenoids will flow).

36LB Injectors (dark blue top)
70 fuel/ 42 NOS = 75 HP
67 fuel/ 47 NOS = 100 HP
65 fuel/ 55 NOS = 125 HP
57 fuel/ 67 NOS = 150 HP*
48 fuel/ 73 NOS = 175 HP* (this is the max that the stock solenoids will flow).

42LB Injectors (lime green top)
75 fuel/ 42 NOS = 75 HP
70 fuel/ 47 NOS = 100 HP
67 fuel/ 55 NOS = 125 HP
60 fuel/ 67 NOS = 150 HP*
52 fuel/ 73 NOS = 175 HP* (this is the max that the stock solenoids will flow).


Last edited by Supernatural; 08-15-2006 at 01:30 PM.
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post #3 of 144 Old 04-05-2006, 09:11 PM Thread Starter
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Regulator:

The nitrous pressure regulator in the NOS dry systems works similar in effect to a reed valve or flapper valve. It is basically a mechanical servo system. It's not like the typical regulator used on gas cylinders. What happens is this:

You might want to dissassemble the regulator and look at it, to understand what is happening in my description.

Inside the NOS nitrous regulator is a brass plunger. The plunger has an O-ring seal on the end where it goes into the regulator cap, an O-ring seal on the small diameter of the shaft which goes in to the regulator body, and a nylon tip in the small end which goes into the regulator body. When the nitrous solenoid is opened, nitrous flows, and pressure from the nitrous bottle bleeds through the bottom hole in the regulator housing. One the housing is pressurized, the pressure then bleeds in two directions. The first direction is towards the FPR. The second direction is through the hole drilled into the side of the brass plunger. After nitrous pressure enters the hole in the plunger, it then travels down the center of plunger towards the cap. When nitrous pressure enters the cap, it presses on the plunger's large diameter, and the plunger then acts as a piston. The plunger presses itself into the regulator housing, compressing the spring. The plunger will only compress the spring until nylon tip in the plunger bottoms out on the inverted flare machined into the nitrous regulator housing. Once the nylon tip hits the inverted flare, nitrous flow into the regulator is stopped. Since nitrous flow has stopped, the nitrous solenoid has ceased supplying pressure, and the pressure which was previously in the regulator housing begins to bleed off through T bypass installed near the FPR. Once enough nitrous pressure has bled off through the bypass, the spring presses the plunger back into the cap, and the seal created at the nylon tip is gone. Nitrous pressure flows back into the regulator, and the system repeats itself until the nitrous solenoid closes.

The plunger opening and closing is what supplies the nitrous pressure at the fuel pressure regulator.

The bypass "fuel" jet in the T fitting determines how fast the nitrous pressure bleeds off, and ultimately the amount which fuel pressure increases. It also controls how soon the brass plunger can BEGIN to open.

The spring rate of the spring inside the plunger determines how fast the plunger can open once the pressure in the cap has dropped to the correct level.

Also note, the rate at which plunger moves back into the cap is affected by the bottle pressure, and the pressure inside the cap. They affect the plunger return rate since they are creating a force on each side of the plunger. The nitrous pressure on the nylon tip is relatively constant. The nitrous pressure on the brass piston inside the cap is decreasing because of the jet in the T bypass. The larger the jet, the faster the nitrous pressure bleeds out of the cap, and the larger the pressure differential between the nylon tip and the brass piston. In effect, the larger the bypass jet, the faster the plunger cycles. For large nitrous shots (150 hp, 175 hp, 200 hp, etc), the bypass jets are small in order to keep the fuel pressure high. These small bypass jets keep the plunger from cycling as fast as it needs to in order to maintain the correct fuel pressure. This is why the .040" shim is required when running larger nitrous shots. The shim effectively increases the static load of the spring, forcing the plunger back into the cap faster. The spring rate hasn't changed, only the load has changed while the nylon tip seals against the inverted flare.


Other topics of interest:

Running too much bottle pressure typically blows the nylon tip right out of the brass plunger. When this happens, the regulator cannot cycle, and it just doesn't work. You can solder up the hole in the bottom of the bos which holds the nylon tip to stop this from happening. From there, you can 1100 psi of bottle pressure, if you are brave.

Putting in shims thicker than the .040" unit supplied by NOS doesn't seem to make much difference at low nitrous power levels (200 hp and less).

The NOS dry nitrous regulator work just like an FMU, so if your injectors are too small for the overall power level you want at the fuel pressure you maintain, you won't get enough fuel.

Installing a return spring with a higher rate would *theoretically* work well on high power applications if your injectors could handle the load. Standard injectors go static and lock open at about 100 PSI so it is extremely important to stay below that number and go up in injector size to supply more fuel.
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post #4 of 144 Old 04-05-2006, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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.040 Regulator Shim:
This "shim" is more or less a .040 brass washer that is placed in between the plunger and the spring in the nitrous regulator unit. This shim is part of the stage 2 upgrade kit and is neccesary on nitrous shots of over 150 HP. I reccomend not going over 125 HP without the shim in place. The basic function of the shim is to increase fuel pressure by about 15 PSI. The shim does this by placing more tension on the spring. You can make your own shim with a proper sized washer, or you can order a package of 2 through holley with part # 17933NOS. Any size thickness over .040 (within reason) doesnt seem to have much of an impact on the overall function of this part.
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post #5 of 144 Old 04-06-2006, 06:23 AM
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Wow......Great info! I don't even own the 5115 kit, but I can take some of your info and adapt it to my 5116(99> Mustang GT kit). THANKS!
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post #6 of 144 Old 04-06-2006, 08:42 PM
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yes 5115 ****a....

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post #7 of 144 Old 04-06-2006, 08:48 PM
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question though, I did the pill swap to up to 125+. So that means im running 59 nos and 42 fuel. Does this mean I'm running lean mixture?

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post #8 of 144 Old 04-06-2006, 08:55 PM
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ug what a double post loser...

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post #9 of 144 Old 04-06-2006, 10:57 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wes89GT
question though, I did the pill swap to up to 125+. So that means im running 59 nos and 42 fuel. Does this mean I'm running lean mixture?
no, you should be right on the money with 19# injectors
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post #10 of 144 Old 04-06-2006, 11:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Supernatural
NOS 511Jet Charts:

These charts are based off of a combination of NOS tech information and information from individual users. Actual jets needed may vary from combination to combination.

24 LB Injectors (light blue top)
63 fuel/ 42 NOS = 75 HP
57 fuel/ 47 NOS = 100 HP
51 fuel/ 55 NOS = 125 HP*
Why is it that the 125 hp nitrous jet for 19 pound injectors and 24 pound injectors is different? I have 24 pound injectors and I am running a 59 NOS and 42 Bypass with the .040 shim in the regulator. I only see 78 PSI fuel pressure with the nitrous and GSS340 Hi Pressure Hi volume intank fuel pump.


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post #11 of 144 Old 04-07-2006, 07:46 AM Thread Starter
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your pressure sounds right on par with where it should be for 19# injectors.

with that fuel jet you are probably running rich on nitrous, which takes that estimated 125 shot down considerably in horsepower. The reason the fuel jets are bigger with the bigger injectors is that the oriface of the injector is larger, so you dont need to run as much fuel pressure as you would with say a 19 lb injector to get the same amount of fuel. Remember with the NOS dry kit, bigger fuel tee jet equals less fuel pressure, so less fuel.

as far as why the nitrous side jets are different, its all about the mixture. Those jet numbers were checked several times and given to me by the NOS guys. They have determined what constitutes a "X-horsepower" shot. and still keeps the engine happy with the A/F ratio. That 125hp shot for 24# injectors must run a little lean on the fuel side, so you dont need as much nitrous to achieve the same results. After all, it is actually the fuel that creates the power, the nitrous just allows you to burn that extra fuel.

All that said, these charts are not written in stone or anything. with that nitrous jet in there you could get by with less fuel pressure, probably around 47 or so and have some oddball sized hybrid shot as I call them. Just tune the fuel down slowly and check the plugs each time.

Last edited by Supernatural; 04-07-2006 at 07:52 AM.
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post #12 of 144 Old 04-07-2006, 08:54 AM
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Maybe I need to to put a bigger nos jet in to lean it out a little LOL

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post #13 of 144 Old 04-07-2006, 06:10 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 91AODGT TT
Maybe I need to to put a bigger nos jet in to lean it out a little LOL
LOL there you go.. a .63 should do the trick or get you close! just be sure to check your plugs and be real cautious until you are sure it is rich enough!
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I think the only thing I havent covered in this write up is the information on the nitrous bypass "tee"

Modern kits are now being sold with a fixed oriface tee. These are non adjustable and only allow a .42 fuel bypass. They have special jet charts that will tune about any sized nitrous shot to work with the . 42 bypass, obviously on small shots the power will be lower because it will be very rich.

It is rumored that due to production costs, and liability NOS is now exclusively using these fixed tees, which reduce your tuning capabilities, as they set your kit to essentially the largest fuel jet all the time.

The solution is to either find a used older type adjustable tee on ebay or simply contact www.nitroussupply.com and order one brand new.

always remember, the "middle line" or part of the tee with the jet in it goes to your intake port, the non jetted side goes to your fuel pressure regulator.

Last edited by Supernatural; 08-10-2006 at 10:27 PM.
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post #15 of 144 Old 04-08-2006, 12:05 AM
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Good read Supernatural....

The info about the regulator was really interesting. I never knew how that worked.

Did your research reveal how many times per second the plunger in the regulator cycles? It's gotta be a pretty high rate... Right?

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WOW! Some great info here.

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Reasonably priced PROFESSIONAL installs and side jobs done. PM me for info and pricing!
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post #17 of 144 Old 04-10-2006, 10:58 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, guys.

Quote:
Originally Posted by qikgts
Good read Supernatural....

The info about the regulator was really interesting. I never knew how that worked.

Did your research reveal how many times per second the plunger in the regulator cycles? It's gotta be a pretty high rate... Right?
I dont have any sure numbers on that, I think its a fairly lethargic movement that the piston makes. That nylon tip is forced down to stop the flow of nitrous just long enough for the pressure to bleed out, then the spring gradually overcomes the force of the nitrous pressure and opens the nylon tip to let more nitrous flow in. Since the plunger has both nitrous pressure and the spring pressure constantly working against it, it is more of a give and take or tug of war effect instead of an all or nothing flutter valve type effect.

Last edited by Supernatural; 04-10-2006 at 11:09 PM.
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post #18 of 144 Old 04-11-2006, 10:14 AM
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great stuff!

nitrous abuser!
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post #19 of 144 Old 04-11-2006, 07:40 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Omega Doom II
great stuff!
Thanks, I was hoping you and Coyfish would come in and add some to it
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post #20 of 144 Old 04-22-2006, 07:20 AM
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Thanks for the great info,I just got my bottle mounted yesterday. I have the older kit without the fixxed orrifice size and cant wait to try it. Will finish the install today. Should make this a sticky so this post doesnt get lost.
Thanks alot,
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post #21 of 144 Old 04-23-2006, 11:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Supernatural
Thanks, I was hoping you and Coyfish would come in and add some to it
I have asked a few people at local stang shop's here in the North Texas area and they knew nothing about it! or thought to ever open up the box and look for that matter!

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post #22 of 144 Old 05-21-2006, 10:23 PM
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Thumbs up

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post #23 of 144 Old 05-29-2006, 01:59 PM
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ttt for a good ass read.

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post #24 of 144 Old 06-06-2006, 03:24 AM
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Bump. Damn good reading! That jet chart should be a sticky!!!

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post #25 of 144 Old 06-13-2006, 09:21 PM
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This is a sticky. No need to "bump" it, it's not going to drop out of sight...
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post #26 of 144 Old 06-14-2006, 01:18 AM
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Just out of curiosity if I ever fell stupid enough to do so....

Anyone know of a 42lb injector chart?

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post #27 of 144 Old 06-22-2006, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitrous SSC
Just out of curiosity if I ever fell stupid enough to do so....

Anyone know of a 42lb injector chart?

well, Im inclined to ask myself for a chart for 36lb injectors....????

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1990 GT
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1987 H/C/I GT
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1995 Kawasaki Ninja (totaled
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92 COUPE H/C/I SUPERCHARGED 302 w/450rwhp with a lil ol powerdyne w/6lbs of boost!!!
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92 Black GT Coming soon! to a track near you!!


95GT H/C/Ikinda slow...
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but it has a F.A.S.T b2b
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post #28 of 144 Old 06-29-2006, 04:14 PM
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I am running 24lb injectors and I am wanting to get 150 out of the 5115. Any suggestions.
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post #29 of 144 Old 06-29-2006, 05:35 PM
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Refer to post #2

Matt, 90' GT 347, 6037 heads, V1 Si-trim, 11psi, B31 Cam, T56, SV Intake, BE/Tweecer Tuned. 550rwhp 513tq
Bonneville 130 club member. (139.993) 11.48@123 in the 1/4.
03' Sonic Blue Cobra 497rwhp 481tq
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post #30 of 144 Old 06-30-2006, 09:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitrous SSC
Refer to post #2

and me???

1967 Mustang Coupe H/C/I
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1986 T-top GT supercharged
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1986 GT
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1990 GT
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1987 H/C/I GT
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1995 Kawasaki Ninja (totaled
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92 COUPE H/C/I SUPERCHARGED 302 w/450rwhp with a lil ol powerdyne w/6lbs of boost!!!
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SOLD


92 Black GT Coming soon! to a track near you!!


95GT H/C/Ikinda slow...
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but it has a F.A.S.T b2b
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post #31 of 144 Old 07-01-2006, 12:17 AM
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VERY GOOD Information here! Thanks for this post and the Charts Supernatural!

My 92 Coupe- Under construction - Dart 347, TFS 205 11R heads,Custom Cam by Brian Friedentag "freezy74",TFS Box R Intake, 75mm Accufab TB, Hooker Supercomp 1 3/4" Full Lengths,Vortech Pass side YSI,8" Crank,2.85 blower pulley,Treadstone 1245-28 Intercooler,Snow Stage 2 Meth kit
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post #32 of 144 Old 07-09-2006, 01:59 AM
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Awsome information Supernatural, This jetting charts is what been looking for crazy. Question:I am little confuse about the fuel pressure. I have the Holley nitrous kit 5115-11 150HP and acording to the owner's manual it states fuel pressure should be at 80psi. well my fuel pressure guage doesnt even read 80psi only 60psi max. Searchig thru i dont see any you fellas running this high reading fuel presure. So what should my fuel pressure be set at with this kit with 30lb injectors. My car only rides at race track in not street legal . Thanks in advance Pepe
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1980 solid lifter . 306 steel crankshaft, stock rods. DSS forged pistons,custom cam 565int/585exh by CROWER 10:1 compression, ARP bolted down with stage 3 TrickFlow Twisted Wedge Heads, ported polished a 3 angle valve job 2.02/1.60 - CROWER valve springs. 1.6 Ford Motorsport rockers. Induction - Trick Flow R series 75mm throtle 75 Pro-M Air mass meter calibrated to 30lbs injectors.
362HP 363FT LB N/A
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post #33 of 144 Old 07-09-2006, 06:55 PM
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With 30's my car would see about 58-60psi of fuel pressure with a 125 shot. 11.5:1 a/f . A wideband will tell you for sure thou.

Matt, 90' GT 347, 6037 heads, V1 Si-trim, 11psi, B31 Cam, T56, SV Intake, BE/Tweecer Tuned. 550rwhp 513tq
Bonneville 130 club member. (139.993) 11.48@123 in the 1/4.
03' Sonic Blue Cobra 497rwhp 481tq
13' Taurus SHO Performance PackDaily
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post #34 of 144 Old 07-10-2006, 12:08 AM
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Nitrous SSC so what you saying is you have the fuel pressure set at 58-60psi when nitrous in going to be use correct?

1980 solid lifter . 306 steel crankshaft, stock rods. DSS forged pistons,custom cam 565int/585exh by CROWER 10:1 compression, ARP bolted down with stage 3 TrickFlow Twisted Wedge Heads, ported polished a 3 angle valve job 2.02/1.60 - CROWER valve springs. 1.6 Ford Motorsport rockers. Induction - Trick Flow R series 75mm throtle 75 Pro-M Air mass meter calibrated to 30lbs injectors.
362HP 363FT LB N/A
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post #35 of 144 Old 07-20-2006, 02:44 PM
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Super, does a 78 bypass and 32-36 NOS sound like a 50 shot for 42 lbs? I have run a 75 shot (forgot the jetting) with my kennebell blower, but I want to drop to a 50 shot. ANy ideas?
Chris

Last edited by Mize blown89lx; 07-20-2006 at 02:51 PM.
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