Ultimate NOS 05115 Dry thread - Page 4 - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #106 of 138 Old 05-02-2011, 04:41 PM
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I have the nos05115 kit, what are the jets I need for a 50hp shot with 36lb injectors? Small shot because the car also has a Kenne Bell on it.


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post #107 of 138 Old 07-02-2011, 12:38 AM
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Ok I am running the 5115 kit, I have 19lb injectors and have a 150hp jet. What fuel jet do I need and where is the fuel jet. thanks

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post #108 of 138 Old 07-11-2011, 10:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StealthStang View Post
Ok I am running the 5115 kit, I have 19lb injectors and have a 150hp jet. What fuel jet do I need and where is the fuel jet. thanks
If you are not sure where the fuel jet is located in your kit I would suggest running not running a 150 shot for now.
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post #109 of 138 Old 07-25-2011, 07:53 PM
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so i take it this kit does not work on 2002 4.6 2v? or some mods r needed?

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post #110 of 138 Old 12-17-2011, 10:23 PM
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Nos- brand fuel pump

I just posted a nos brand fuel pump which is used in the 5115 up grade kit, Its the older style but still works great, I will post it on the classified, I just see alot of people who use the 5115 kit might be interested in it.
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post #111 of 138 Old 02-24-2012, 12:21 AM
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I learned a lot from this thread. I think the best part was finding nitrous supply. They still sell the old style vacuum T and they are great people to deal with. I learned a lot about old nitrous history from the owner, Mike. Since it was after hours I had to calm back today as I wanted a few other things. The gentleman I talked to on the phone was very familiar with everything nitrous and was very helpful. Really awesome people. I'm going to go down just to see the place.

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post #112 of 138 Old 02-27-2012, 07:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Supernatural View Post
nitrous supply sells new copies of the old adjustable style tee for 13.57. Their part number is 27538. They are the only ones still producing them, but you can sometimes find them on ebay as well. Id give them a call. 714-373-1986
And they still sell them under the same part number only they are 14.99 now. I just ordered one up. Had a grea conversation with Mike, the owner. What a great guy to talk too.

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84 Mustang GT, 408 super Vic intake, high port heads, pro system 1000cfm carb, inductions solutions sledge hammer nitrous system, glide. Full TeamZ suspension.
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post #113 of 138 Old 04-20-2012, 11:25 PM
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I have 73 nitrous and 45 fuel jets. I put the .040 shim in be regulator. I did a quick test in my garage with the nitrous line to nozzle plugged just to make sure my fuel pressure goes up. It is going up over 100psi. I'm not sure if this is because I have the main nitrous line plugged and the regulator is the easiest path for the nitrous to take and is causing the pressure to go that high or if I have something wrong. Where oh where is supernatural when you need him.

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post #114 of 138 Old 04-22-2012, 12:25 AM
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I am digging the whole dry setup. I just threw a wet kit on my car, but am not real satisfied with it. I do have a 95 5.0. lots of twisting and turning before it actually hits the cylinders. I have one of the NOS regulators on the way, and the fuel side tee is done. Any suggestions on how to have a two stage dry setup?
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post #115 of 138 Old 04-22-2012, 01:02 AM
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I finally go my regulator working correctly. Not sure exactly what fixed it, the fact I took it apart a few times while trying it or the spring neede to wear in and soften up a little. What ever it was it worked.


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84 Mustang GT, 408 super Vic intake, high port heads, pro system 1000cfm carb, inductions solutions sledge hammer nitrous system, glide. Full TeamZ suspension.
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post #116 of 138 Old 01-14-2013, 01:38 PM
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mostly plagiarism

Quote:
Originally Posted by Supernatural View Post
Regulator:

The nitrous pressure regulator in the NOS dry systems works similar in effect to a reed valve or flapper valve. It is basically a mechanical servo system. It's not like the typical regulator used on gas cylinders. What happens is this:

You might want to dissassemble the regulator and look at it, to understand what is happening in my description.

Inside the NOS nitrous regulator is a brass plunger. The plunger has an O-ring seal on the end where it goes into the regulator cap, an O-ring seal on the small diameter of the shaft which goes in to the regulator body, and a nylon tip in the small end which goes into the regulator body. When the nitrous solenoid is opened, nitrous flows, and pressure from the nitrous bottle bleeds through the bottom hole in the regulator housing. One the housing is pressurized, the pressure then bleeds in two directions. The first direction is towards the FPR. The second direction is through the hole drilled into the side of the brass plunger. After nitrous pressure enters the hole in the plunger, it then travels down the center of plunger towards the cap. When nitrous pressure enters the cap, it presses on the plunger's large diameter, and the plunger then acts as a piston. The plunger presses itself into the regulator housing, compressing the spring. The plunger will only compress the spring until nylon tip in the plunger bottoms out on the inverted flare machined into the nitrous regulator housing. Once the nylon tip hits the inverted flare, nitrous flow into the regulator is stopped. Since nitrous flow has stopped, the nitrous solenoid has ceased supplying pressure, and the pressure which was previously in the regulator housing begins to bleed off through T bypass installed near the FPR. Once enough nitrous pressure has bled off through the bypass, the spring presses the plunger back into the cap, and the seal created at the nylon tip is gone. Nitrous pressure flows back into the regulator, and the system repeats itself until the nitrous solenoid closes.

The plunger opening and closing is what supplies the nitrous pressure at the fuel pressure regulator.

The bypass "fuel" jet in the T fitting determines how fast the nitrous pressure bleeds off, and ultimately the amount which fuel pressure increases. It also controls how soon the brass plunger can BEGIN to open.

The spring rate of the spring inside the plunger determines how fast the plunger can open once the pressure in the cap has dropped to the correct level.

Also note, the rate at which plunger moves back into the cap is affected by the bottle pressure, and the pressure inside the cap. They affect the plunger return rate since they are creating a force on each side of the plunger. The nitrous pressure on the nylon tip is relatively constant. The nitrous pressure on the brass piston inside the cap is decreasing because of the jet in the T bypass. The larger the jet, the faster the nitrous pressure bleeds out of the cap, and the larger the pressure differential between the nylon tip and the brass piston. In effect, the larger the bypass jet, the faster the plunger cycles. For large nitrous shots (150 hp, 175 hp, 200 hp, etc), the bypass jets are small in order to keep the fuel pressure high. These small bypass jets keep the plunger from cycling as fast as it needs to in order to maintain the correct fuel pressure. This is why the .040" shim is required when running larger nitrous shots. The shim effectively increases the static load of the spring, forcing the plunger back into the cap faster. The spring rate hasn't changed, only the load has changed while the nylon tip seals against the inverted flare.


Other topics of interest:

Running too much bottle pressure typically blows the nylon tip right out of the brass plunger. When this happens, the regulator cannot cycle, and it just doesn't work. You can solder up the hole in the bottom of the bos which holds the nylon tip to stop this from happening. From there, you can 1100 psi of bottle pressure, if you are brave.

Putting in shims thicker than the .040" unit supplied by NOS doesn't seem to make much difference at low nitrous power levels (200 hp and less).

The NOS dry nitrous regulator work just like an FMU, so if your injectors are too small for the overall power level you want at the fuel pressure you maintain, you won't get enough fuel.

Installing a return spring with a higher rate would *theoretically* work well on high power applications if your injectors could handle the load. Standard injectors go static and lock open at about 100 PSI so it is extremely important to stay below that number and go up in injector size to supply more fuel.
It's interesting that I posted this exact text in 2002, linked below, post #5, with exception that you modified the text in two places.
How do Nitrous Pressure Regulators work??

I found this by looking up ebay comps to see how much I could part out my old homemade 5115 / 5171 dry kit with big shot solenoid for and came up with this link.

You should post links to the original works instead of posting the text as if it were original work of your own. If you plagiarized my work, I'm sure there are others.
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post #117 of 138 Old 02-12-2013, 01:36 PM
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can anyone tell me if the jet sizes given at the start of the thread hold good for larger displacement motors ie 427.

thanks
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post #118 of 138 Old 08-11-2013, 03:31 PM
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I cant find the stage 2 kit over at NOS/Holley.com is it discontinued?
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post #119 of 138 Old 01-13-2014, 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by nobody special View Post
It's interesting that I posted this exact text in 2002, linked below, post #5, with exception that you modified the text in two places.
How do Nitrous Pressure Regulators work??

I found this by looking up ebay comps to see how much I could part out my old homemade 5115 / 5171 dry kit with big shot solenoid for and came up with this link.

You should post links to the original works instead of posting the text as if it were original work of your own. If you plagiarized my work, I'm sure there are others.
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post #120 of 138 Old 10-25-2014, 10:16 PM
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Bump for a simple effective kit. Used back when they first came out with this kit way back when..... but went Supercharged quickly afterwards. Just put the kit on again on my beater Coupe today just for fun. Results here: Sprayed a 150hp NOS dry shot on a stock AOD
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post #121 of 138 Old 04-14-2015, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StealthStang View Post
Ok I am running the 5115 kit, I have 19lb injectors and have a 150hp jet. What fuel jet do I need and where is the fuel jet. thanks
I need to know this also. I had a buddy give me the solenoids/regulator/nozzle and there are no jets anywhere and I don't really want to spray 150-175 on a cast piston 5.0. Where does the fuel jet go?

Honda's are like ********, everybody has one.
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post #122 of 138 Old 04-14-2015, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by smokehouse_83 View Post
I need to know this also. I had a buddy give me the solenoids/regulator/nozzle and there are no jets anywhere and I don't really want to spray 150-175 on a cast piston 5.0. Where does the fuel jet go?
The fuel jet will go near the FPR inline of the vacuum line T into it. Do you have the instructions? They are available everywhere and have pics to help. Let me know if need some.

Assuming you are running 19lb injectors, a .042" fuel jet size with the .067" nitrous jet is the combo.

Look on the very first post for all the jetting combos with different injectors.

I recommend running a 255lph fuel pump minimum, timing set 6' w/timing spout placed back in after setting w/o it.

EDIT: Here ya go::: http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInst.../741-05115.pdf
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post #123 of 138 Old 04-15-2015, 10:11 AM
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Thanks for the link, but what in the hell does the Fuel Jet do in that location? I could understand if it was inline with the FPR, but they show it after the Tee inline with a vacuum source? I would think that would be to purge excess nitrous out of the regulator and the jet would be there keep it from spraying a huge shot into the motor, am I right? If so its not really a fuel jet its pretty much a secondary nitrous jet. I have 24lber's in it right now, but have 42's and a Pro M for them also and a 255 in the tank. Setup

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post #124 of 138 Old 04-15-2015, 11:02 AM
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Nevermind I got it. The Tee is the orfice and the Tee's come in different sizes for different shots. Why the hell do they show a jet on the diagram when one doesn't go there?

Honda's are like ********, everybody has one.
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post #125 of 138 Old 04-15-2015, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokehouse_83 View Post
Nevermind I got it. The Tee is the orfice and the Tee's come in different sizes for different shots. Why the hell do they show a jet on the diagram when one doesn't go there?
Thats how the kit was when it 1st come out. (I still have this kit in my cabinet LoL)

From my understanding is you cant buy that "T" as its not made any longer (read on this page years ago I believe).

You could make your own though pretty easy.
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post #126 of 138 Old 04-15-2015, 01:22 PM
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They have the 42 and the 59 at Summit. Those two are really all you need for a small shot and a big shot.

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post #127 of 138 Old 04-15-2015, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fordjunky View Post
Thats how the kit was when it 1st come out. (I still have this kit in my cabinet LoL)

From my understanding is you cant buy that "T" as its not made any longer (read on this page years ago I believe).

You could make your own though pretty easy.
The T only comes as a 59. You can still buy the recommended T that allows the jet to be put into place for tuning capabilities.

I just bought one about 6 months ago so it is probably still available from here:

https://www.nitroussupply.com/

https://www.nitroussupply.com/proddetail.php?prod=27538 - $15.70

All it does is limits vacuum to the FPR which then raises the FP accordingly. It really does pretty good IMHO.

Quote:
Originally Posted by smokehouse_83 View Post
Nevermind I got it. The Tee is the orfice and the Tee's come in different sizes for different shots. Why the hell do they show a jet on the diagram when one doesn't go there?
Old original instructions no matter how new of a kit you get......



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post #128 of 138 Old 04-15-2015, 04:31 PM
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Summit is showing a 42 and a 59 tee? Those two should be an 80hp and 150hp shot depending on the nitrous solenoid you use. But they are 25 bucks apiece so jets and the special tee is probally cheaper..

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post #129 of 138 Old 04-15-2015, 08:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokehouse_83 View Post
Summit is showing a 42 and a 59 tee? Those two should be an 80hp and 150hp shot depending on the nitrous solenoid you use. But they are 25 bucks apiece so jets and the special tee is probally cheaper..
No no you are right. Yes the price of tees is ridiculous plus what happens when you are running 30lb injectors or bigger. The tee is worthless unless you want to drill it out appropriately. So yea the jets are better especially if you are fine tuning the jets beyond the recommended sizing as found on the 1st post.
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post #130 of 138 Old 04-15-2015, 10:26 PM
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Cool.
Best price Ive found on jets.
InductionSolutions

Now remember some brand kits rate there jets at different bottle psi.

42 is your standard 75hp




Here is a list I put together on WET kits.

75hp
40/26---Zex
41/24---Nitrous Express
42/24---Dynotune
42/26---Nos

100hp
46/30---Zex
46/33---Compucar (90hp)
47/30---Nos
48/28---Dynotune
52/33---Nitrous Express (NOTE: very close to being 125hp & they dont have a 125hp jet reference)

125hp
53/30---Dynotune
54/34---Zex
55/-39--Nos
59/37---Compucar

150hp
57/32---Dynotune
62/38---Nitrous Express
63/38---Nos
63/43---Compucar
67/38---Zex

Dynotune uses the nozzle & jets interchange/fit of NOS.
.
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post #131 of 138 Old 04-17-2015, 08:32 AM
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Great write up, I subscribed to the thread. Would you or anyone here have information on using this set up on a 2011 5.0 mustang? People seem to have a fit when you mention dry nitrous on a Coyote. Thank you in advance.
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post #132 of 138 Old 04-18-2015, 01:35 PM
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post #133 of 138 Old 04-23-2015, 12:47 PM
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Should I throw in the 42lb's/Pro M that I have just to be safe? Right now I have 24lb's/Pro M and its a HCI stock cast bottom end 5.0. I will probably start with a 100 shot and move up to a full 150/175 if I can.

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post #134 of 138 Old 04-23-2015, 08:29 PM
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I've got a HCI 302 with 24's and sprayed a 175 shot with no problem.....aside from lack of traction.
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post #135 of 138 Old 04-24-2015, 03:08 PM
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What should I set my base fuel pressure and timing at for a 100 shot and for a 175 shot?

Honda's are like ********, everybody has one.
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post #136 of 138 Old 06-12-2016, 10:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pfirmin View Post
I have one of the NOS regulators on the way, and the fuel side tee is done.
I know this is a really old reply ^^^^ but thought I'd ask. ..

Does anyone know where I can get a NOS regulator made for dry systems? I Google it and checked NS Web site, can't seem to find a direct fit regulator, or is the ones people are using universal fit? I have a wet system that I am wanting to go dry.




Found it ***** 15850NOS ******


Found the diagram and it makes more sense...
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post #137 of 138 Old 02-23-2017, 10:24 PM
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Is there anything else needed to install this kit on a manual transmission?
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post #138 of 138 Old 02-24-2017, 04:00 PM
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If you are worried about missing shifts with the nitrous running, unless you are power shifting you do not need anything else. But incorporating a window switch to turn the nitrous on and off at a preset rpm would not be a bad idea if you are concerned.
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