87 Vert Road Race Street Ride - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 206 Old 05-03-2015, 08:09 AM Thread Starter
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87 Vert Road Race Street Ride

Greetings To All:

Have been a Fox owner since 1987 when my grandma sent me some dough as a gift; used it as a downpayment on a charcoal grey 84-1/2 GT w/ T-roofs; 2nd owner, 50 000 miles in Oct of 1987.





















9 motors, 2 trannys, 2 rear ends, an SVO body conversion; 300 000 miles, thousands of laps on road courses and autocross events, 12 competition level sound systems, and 3 crashes later; 30 days after receiving a brand new internally balanced PSP built 333 cid 374 rwhp stroker motor, the car met its untimely end on Sept 29th 2010. Irrepairable after a crash when another driver turned left in front of me on a yellow light. Thankfully no personal injuries were sustained by anyone, including a very lucky nearby pedestrian.




Herein starts the story of my current build and the continuation of the essence and spirit of the original TU LOWD.........enter TU LOWD2:



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post #2 of 206 Old 05-07-2015, 11:54 AM
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Ouch.

Very interested to see where this car goes.


-John
1988 Scarlet Red T-Top GT (59k)
1993 Reef Blue A/C Delete Notch (62k)
1993 Black SSP (200k) on loan from a friend.
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post #3 of 206 Old 05-08-2015, 10:29 AM
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How do you get the mowers up there?
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post #4 of 206 Old 05-09-2015, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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They use a tow motor / fork lift / front end loader; depending what's available. Not my shop; my friends let me store my car there in the winters. I built most of the '87 in my ex GF's 1.5 car unheated garage between stripping the old one down. From 2012 it's been in my driveway/car shelter; trying to move forward.

No Ring Brother's infrastructure or skill level here !!
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post #5 of 206 Old 05-09-2015, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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After fighting with insurance company for 3 months, they finally settled on sending me a cheque and the car.
GF suggested I look at a vert instead of coupe/hatch; since it's only a fair weather/summer/track car.

Briefly considered a Shelby Cobra kit car or resto modding a 65 Mustang / GT350 clone but decided Fox body was the only realistic build, considering budget, the plethora of knowledge and parts under my belt; not to mention the old wreck incl a brand new stroker motor and built 8.8 rear end.

Started looking in October 2010; ended up looking at almost 50 cars (mostly in Canada) but also some in Texas and other places work brought me to during the fall.

Found a mostly stock, low mileage, "restored" 87 GT Vert.
50 000 miles; originally white / blue interior auto, A/C, loaded. The gent had budget built a few of these and converted this car to triple black, black leather interior, new roof, MAF EFI, Cobra brakes and new tires wheels; still auto; Eibachs and new floors; House of Kolor ice blue pearl on black. A little disco for me, but the car looked great and was his wifes daily driver at the time. She wanted a truck for the winter; so we cut a deal shortly before Xmas. He originally wanted 10 k for the car for including a rebuilt GT40 style EFI Ford crate motor. I found it on page 50 of our local Kijiji publication - similar to Craigs List. Included a stock painted steel hood as well as an unpainted SVO/Cobra R fiberglass hood; which is what attracted me to the car in the first place; as it at least resembled my old one.

Here are the original pics from the ad in Sept 2010:




Came with Kenwood/Rockford Fosgate/Phoenix Gold sound system included. Since I worked in the car audio installation world for almost 20 yrs, this is kinda like a mini starter system; lol. The tail lights were from the SVO, this pic os a little newer; but you get the idea:


Here it is mid December 2010, upon arriving home for the winter. The SVO wreck was in the GF's garage slowly getting torn down by hand in the meantime.



The G/F's garage; I built a workshop and insulated it before / during the 'vert build:
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post #6 of 206 Old 05-10-2015, 09:39 PM
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What does it look like now?
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post #7 of 206 Old 05-11-2015, 10:29 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry Papa - I want to finish the build thread portion along the way before posting recent pics. Might take about a week for me to get to that point.

Spring 2011:
Had the 6 pt roll bar from the old car and full length thru the floor subframe connectors, rear bulkhead re enforcement and control arm pickup points fabbed/welded in;



Rebuilt the entire front suspension with Energy Suspension poly bushings

changed all the shocks to Koni yellows and added Eibach springs; changed the rotors to drilled and slotted and new pads; started adding braided brake lines, etc:


Also bought a LX trunk lid and Saleen wing and had it painted along with the Cobra R/SVO cowl hood:
drove the car as an auto for the summer of '11 to get a handle on things


Also re upholstered the rear seat with a Corbeau pre-made cover:
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post #8 of 206 Old 05-11-2015, 08:12 PM
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Fair enough. What is all that wire by the right lower rear seat?
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post #9 of 206 Old 05-11-2015, 08:28 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa Cosmos View Post
Fair enough. What is all that wire by the right lower rear seat?
I believe that was some of the audio cables previously installed. Full new system going in ....eventually. Considering installing a whole new wiring harness in the car; but short on time and space.
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post #10 of 206 Old 05-11-2015, 08:45 PM
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I just couldn't tell what it was for.

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post #11 of 206 Old 05-12-2015, 08:11 AM Thread Starter
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lol....me neither. Pulled the A/C, power steering, fuel delivery and EFI wiring and plumbing out of the car in 2011. Still haven't removed the dash to get rid of the condenser, heater core and all the wiring and parts that aren't needed. Hoping to remove another 50 lbs of junk this way.

So basically drove the car as seen in the above photos and below for the summer of 2011 to get a feel for it. Auto, stock 5.0 MAF and a SN95 3.73 rear end.




Forgot to post this front end parts extravaganza from earlier:


End of Nov 2011; a nice warm day, especially from a Canadian perspective: pulled out drive train and most of the body to finally start doing some serious work:



Ready to pressure wash in the stylish fishermans outfit:



Sold the trans, motor, EFI harness, exhaust and all the other crap that came out for $ 1000 cash - as it came off the car it just got tossed in the back of my F150:


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post #12 of 206 Old 05-15-2015, 11:08 AM Thread Starter
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Spent the entire winter of 2011/2012 wire wheeling, scraping and welding the underneath, chassis and engine compartment; basically anywhere the gun could fit, while lying on the concrete floor with the car about 20 inches in the air. 14 lbs of Mig wire later, full frame install, and discovering the new floor installation included handfuls of seam sealer. Also installed the Global West rear suspension and the built 8.8 rear end.













All the frame work was for preparation of the 15" subwoofer baffle that will be bolted to it eventually. The tubes welded to the shock towers are for the cross brace tube to be attached:






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post #13 of 206 Old 05-15-2015, 04:45 PM Thread Starter
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Maximum Motorsport sway bar bushing mount support plus found that someone had presumably towed the car by the sway bar, as everything was bent offcentre. Nothing a large hammer, grinder, wore wheel, Mig welder and patience couldn't fix:





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post #14 of 206 Old 05-16-2015, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
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seam welding the upper and lower firewall pinch welds:


found some of the front frame rails rotted near the K member on both sides.



Cardboard template transferred to 3/16" checkerplate; cut out with plasma cutter:


some Hot Rod Scotts plus my own panels to cover the strut towers and inner fenders/aprons:







Extending the subframe connectors to the firewall.....don't ask, lol



Don't know if you can see it here, but the whole K member was seam welded everywhere...(without removing it from the car) The trailing ends where it bolts to the frame rails were stitched to the frame so the K frame doesn't shift under hard braking. Also re enforced with a 4 pt Maximum Motorsports K member brace; which had to be cut in half to allow the Kooks headers to clear...later.


After everything was done, or I ran out of patience after several weekends of grinding, wire wheeling and welding, the engine bay was sprayed with semi gloss spray bombs after being prepped. Only some of the more brutal welds were ground down - I don't mind the Frankenstein look, especially since there is so much of it hidden underneath the fenders and the underside of the car.
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post #15 of 206 Old 05-18-2015, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
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Decided to delete the power steering for improved road feel and clean up as much of the underhood clutter as possible, lose a little bit of weight higher up as a bonus. Went with a Flaming River 20:1 manual rack and solid steering shaft. More on the lack of clearance on the Kooks long tubes later, lol








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post #16 of 206 Old 05-25-2015, 08:38 AM Thread Starter
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Rear end and fuel tank installation:


Maximum Motorsport Panhard bar, Global West Trac Link and spherical lower control arms, Koni double adjustable shocks






Gas tank is vented, with a return line and baffled sump; all lines and fittings are 1/2" NPT or -8AN


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post #17 of 206 Old 05-26-2015, 09:10 AM Thread Starter
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post #18 of 206 Old 05-26-2015, 09:13 AM Thread Starter
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post #19 of 206 Old 05-26-2015, 09:14 AM Thread Starter
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post #20 of 206 Old 05-27-2015, 09:30 AM Thread Starter
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post #27 of 206 Old 05-27-2015, 12:41 PM
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I kept seeing all the updates and thought "man this guy works fast", then saw the bit about catching the thread up to current events.

Now that you have the Torque Arm and Panhard Bar installed, you want to remove your upper control arms. (if you have not done so already)

-John
1988 Scarlet Red T-Top GT (59k)
1993 Reef Blue A/C Delete Notch (62k)
1993 Black SSP (200k) on loan from a friend.
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post #28 of 206 Old 05-27-2015, 01:25 PM
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May I ask what the purpose of all of the bracket support stuff in the trunk is for, besides mounting the battery?

1989 Saleen 414 358cid SBF 2.8L Kenne Bell S/C
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Best 1/4 mile time 8.623 @ 159.82 mph with a 1.34 60' (5.55 1/8th at 128)
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post #29 of 206 Old 05-27-2015, 06:11 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saleen414 View Post
May I ask what the purpose of all of the bracket support stuff in the trunk is for, besides mounting the battery?
Good question, sharp eyes.
Since I installed car stereos in the 80s and 90's, a monster sound system belongs in a car like this; especially since verts are so challenging when it comes to space and stiffness.

Planning on 15" Dr. Crankenstein woofer(s) and several thousand watts of old school Rockford Fosgate power. The 1" square tube and L channel is all going to support the subwoofer baffle. Side benefit is that the trunk structure is much stiffer/stronger than before, so there are no squeaks and rattles from the back.
The car will also be fully Dynamat and Dynaliner equipped, which unfortunately means adding weight back in.

A real street car should have a killer sound system, this should be the crowning touch, if I ever get it done, lol
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post #30 of 206 Old 05-27-2015, 06:20 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old School EFI View Post
I kept seeing all the updates and thought "man this guy works fast", then saw the bit about catching the thread up to current events.

Now that you have the Torque Arm and Panhard Bar installed, you want to remove your upper control arms. (if you have not done so already)
LOL, yea - this madness started in 2011 and continues - altho I have been driving the car at the track and on the street the past 2 summers.
Have had to make some changes, in several cases multiple times.
Fuel system components have changed 5 x, 2 ign systems, etc etc

When I visited Global West, the owner/engineer suggested keeping the upper arms in place for safety, since it's a street car, but hogging out the axle end bushings to allow more motion and articulation; using soft 170 #/in rear springs and Koni double adjustable shocks, along with their spherical and Delrin equipped tubular lower arms.

Ran that setup for a while, but while it eliminated brake dive and gave good traction (along with the Torsen/Truetrac diff) it simply didn't allow the suspension compliance I'm looking for, so it is now off the car.

New upper OEM bushings, Edelbrock double adjustable spherical upper control arms, and replacing the Global West lowers with double spherical Maximum Motorsports lower arms next week. Also adding a Koni/MM rear coilover kit (225#/in) for some much needed spring stiffness (app double what there is now) even after switching to Eibach rears.

The new upper arms will go once the MM torque arm goes on next, but I want to try setting this up without it first.
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post #31 of 206 Old 05-27-2015, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
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First Drive after getting the car back together I got nailed by a radar / revenue trap!!


This was all in 2013
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Swapped out the skinny 245/45 rears for 275/40 Nitto 555's










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post #33 of 206 Old 05-27-2015, 07:13 PM Thread Starter
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Brake ducting with custom spun adaptors for the Cervini Stalker fog light openings. Various pads and rotors, ended up liking the EBC reds the best, along with Cobra (not Mach1) rotors with the curved vanes.











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post #34 of 206 Old 05-27-2015, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
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love shipping car parts, including tires! to my hotel



New 255/40 fronts:


Finally found a set of original Ford Motorsport valve covers, been looking for those forever:


4 wheel alignment, tried something different than last time:


and corner scaled the car, with 170 lb driver, 110 lbs of ballast to simulate the stereo, and full tank of fuel; still had the iron cyl heads.
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post #35 of 206 Old 05-27-2015, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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2014:
Added heat shielding on the fuel feed and return lines:




New 17x9/10.5" staggered black Terminator wheels:




broke the transmission on lap 4 of the second road course lapping event:



so............

Ford Racing T5Z:



Also got a set of shaved and abused 255/40 Nitto NT01 s for the track - mounted on my Ford Cobra R 17x9 wheels


Added Mach 1 (yuck!! lol) front air dam:
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