87 Vert Road Race Street Ride - Page 6 - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #176 of 208 Old 02-05-2017, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
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Thx Guys, glad to see some readership on here, despite no hot chix or political discourse, lol

The re-assembly project is a daunting task; especially since I have to decide in what order to refinish and then re assemble the body, all the while taking advantage of easier access to the interior, engine compartment and underneath for the wiring, dash, interior and underhood accessories and systems.

Still need to purchase a new hood, an oil cooler system and full rad setup, as well as a few trim and weatherstrip pieces. Then have to get the wing mounting sorted out, and then have all the body panels prepped and painted.

Going for a visit to PSP to have all the valve springs checked. Also need to deal with removing the ATI damper and fixing the leaky timing cover gasket before re-assembling the front end and new power steering and alternator setup. Also need to hit GT Customs for shortening the center portion of the exhaust by the one inch the motor was set back.

The final project, after the entire car is back together and ready to be driven will be to install the flares, determine wheel spacer/tire clearance and install the big wheel/tire package. Then set ride height, proper alignment, bump steer and corner weighting. Car should be ready just in time for when the autonomous car revolution has taken hold.

Here is the beginnings of the To Do List; which is similar to a Honey-Do list, only more expensive, time consuming and sure to guarantee celibacy, as opposed to an increase in high quality nookie.



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post #177 of 208 Old 02-10-2017, 10:55 PM Thread Starter
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Car went into the booth on Thurs, and has turned out really nice so far. There is still quite a bit of block sanding and polishing left to be done, as well as a couple of spots of touch up and re-clearing in a few spots. Door jambs and trunk area look epic; the quarters need a little more love. Paint looks so wet and deep already.









Removed the hinges from the pass side door and started repairing the cracked beltline trim tonight:




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post #178 of 208 Old 02-11-2017, 06:41 PM
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looking good
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post #179 of 208 Old 02-11-2017, 11:49 PM Thread Starter
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Gracias.

Stripped down the driver's door today; left the regulator and glass installed, but all the trim and wiring is out, ended up finding someone who welds worse than me - whomever at Ford welded the hinges onto the doors! JTs car looks the same, looks like Ray Charles grabbed a stick welder and cranked it on high. Brutal; took over an hour with the die grinde to clean them both up. John will be smiling, since it means he won't have to do it, lol. Some of the trim was Moused into place with a tube of silicone, so there will be some reconstruction happening. One bolt busted off and needed extraction, all the trim rivets spun and melted the discs, so they will need to be replaced. Trim is all decent, so the rubber will be rejuvenated, the plastic will all be painted factory trim color. Not sure about the handles yet, and debating whether to pull off the door bumper guards, as they look pretty good and I hear it's a nightmare to try and refit them later.







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post #180 of 208 Old 02-12-2017, 10:25 AM
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Looking great so far !
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post #181 of 208 Old 02-13-2017, 11:17 PM
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Looks Great!
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post #182 of 208 Old 02-23-2017, 07:17 AM Thread Starter
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Chassis was picked up yesterday. Not perfect, but real nice; paint is deep, wet and dark like Satan's eyes.



Hooked up with my old pal Rob Kerby who used to flat bed all the Pioneer demo cars and the Crankenstein van for me in the 90's.
He's a manager at Abrams now; still a real gear head, altho Chevy and Dodge affliction; despite having owned a couple of hot rod Foxes.


Dave is glad the wreck is out of his hair after 2 months. Only car with a base clear roll bar, paint on it looks better than most cars, lol.
He's doing a 40s era pickup truck next, as well as a 34 Ford and possibly another Fox. Such a good guy and a helluva bass player apparently.
Lives in Grand Bend, conveniently located near the strip and road course, lol.


Delivered to PSP; shop was empty and waiting.

1) Check valve spring pressures to ensure nothing hemorraghed after 2000 km of 6500+ rpm beatings:




All is well, pressures off the seat were all within 5 lbs across the board. Paul's serious race motors get spring pressures tested between runs.
Had a couple of naturally aspirated 410 inch SBF's making over 900 at the crank; incl our pal Ryan Schultz's new nitrous monster. 15:1 comp, I guess they could run on diesel, kerosene or whiskey.

Nuff said, glad this level of expertise and knowledge is embedded in my feeble stock block.

Fun Fact: Edelbrock claims PSP has built the fastest N/A Victor Jr. SBF motor on the planet...... it runs 7's in a Fox.

2) Removed the ATI damper that was stuck on the crank. Added a little bit of heat to the rear of the snout, watched the Snap-On puller frame bend impossibly.........and .....POP!!!...off she be.


No corrosion, so will go back on nicely. Timing cover will get resealed, and the freshly cleaned Victor water pump will go back on.


Everything should be done today, car will be home on the weekend.

Then the real work can start.
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post #183 of 208 Old 02-24-2017, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
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Timing cover, water pump and power steering pump are back on.


The vert got a ride home, now tucked away with the sled that hasn't seen northern snow in 3 yrs.





Working on ordering up some trim and misc parts and also getting organized with what to do next. Gotta strip down the passenger door, lay out the final wing mount locations and matched re-enforcements for the trunk lid. Clean up some more to make room. Start thinking about the wiring and all the stuff that should be done before any re-assembly. Gotta wipe down the car and cover it.
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post #184 of 208 Old 02-24-2017, 06:11 PM
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Just thumbed through this whole build. Cool stuff. I'm looking forward to giving my car a proper paint job. This is definitely inspiring.
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post #185 of 208 Old 02-27-2017, 07:16 AM Thread Starter
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Thx Wrench; if I was in San Diego, the car would be finished. Winter in Canada, while not nearly as brutal as usual, does affect the ghetto build without a proper shop to work in. Neighbors love it when they hear air tools and it's snowing

What a great afternoon yesterday - cleaned up the dust and figured out how to cover and protect the new paint, AFTER a 2x4 brace came crashing down and hit the right rear quarter.......no dent, only a small scuff that will buff out and is covered mostly by the bolt on wheel flare. Ok, now that the first damage is over and done with, can get to working on it.

Flannel, then new moving blankets, then my 30 yr old car cover; clamps to hold it all in place:



Pulled off most of the tape protecting the underhood wiring and started looking at how all that is going to be routed, with new ground connection and 1 wire alternator joining the (new to me) power steering!
Mounted the fuel regulator and carb feed lines, may change a fitting or two here to make it prettier. May have to move the filter into the inner fender, will see when the feed and return lines get connected next.
Going to try and blow in some spray bomb gloss black where the gun couldn't reach, and also buff some of the dull areas that received some clear overspray through the firewall openings, which will also need to get blocked off.
Order a pile of new trim and weatherstripping from 5.0 resto, should pick that up next week.

Oh, and look what I found, lol


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post #186 of 208 Old 03-07-2017, 06:35 PM Thread Starter
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The second door is now stripped down, got some new trim and weatherstripping over the weekend from Fox Mustang Resto. All looks pretty decent, the plastic and metal trim will all be painted Hot Rod Black, the OEM Ford paint.



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post #187 of 208 Old 04-09-2017, 11:08 AM Thread Starter
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Mockup only:
Jendosa 240Z bolt on 3" flare painted carbon House of Kolor, mounted over 1" enlarged wheel opening. 1" Eibach bolt on wheelspacer with 17x10.5" AM Cobra replica wheel and 315/35/17 Nitto NT01 road race tire.
Scratched the clearcoat in a few places, but should buff out fine. Most of the flare mounting holes were filled in and painted, could only get at two of them from the back. Will finish mounting the flare only after the bumper and skirt kit are installed.

Might re do the flares in black, time will tell.

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post #188 of 208 Old 04-16-2017, 09:39 AM Thread Starter
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Got the remainder of the exterior trim back; it is a mix of old and brand new 5.0 Resto stuff. Something like 20 pieces! Now all of it is refinished in Hot Rod Black trim paint by John Connery. Lookin good, especially the brand new steel door handles and the vert hinges. Man, these cars have sooooo many little pieces, and that's only the hard trim, not the weatherstripping or window guides etc. The only thing NOT being painted trim are the door and body side moldings because the front and rear bumper covers have them integrated. So: door handles, mirrors, beltline, door and windshield moldings have all been painted and match perfectly, unlike a lot of the resto stuff that comes in different finishes and also can turn purple from the UV very quickly.
Gonna be a long summer, lol



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post #189 of 208 Old 04-19-2017, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
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Finally got the rest of the G-Stream Wing mounting hardware.


Fuel System #4 started.


Inner dash frame, crank and water pump pulleys are all sandblasted and painted




Rear power window motor ate the three gear torque pins:


And ready to be re assembled. I actually have the pins somewhere, can also use 1/4-20 nuts to keep pressure on the plastic gear against the drive shaft. Easy repair, if a bit messy.
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post #190 of 208 Old 04-21-2017, 07:25 AM Thread Starter
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some bling and restraints for the biatch.........

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post #191 of 208 Old 04-22-2017, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
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Rear Fuel system re-plumbed and mostly wired. Notice the 90* sump drain plug


Pulleys re-installed, have also started to replace all the water pump bolts with the 12pt wherever practical and accessible:


Front swaybar offset 1.5" forward, with alum trim plate:




So not a lot of progress, but at least moving ahead.....
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post #192 of 208 Old 04-23-2017, 01:07 AM
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I dig the ARP hardware. Clear sign of a "every detail counts" kinda build... or at least someone thats the right kind of sick in the head. Keep the picks coming. They're motivating.
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post #193 of 208 Old 04-29-2017, 10:30 AM Thread Starter
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Thx wrench, very kind. Sadly, my skill sets and time frame won't allow this to be a "real" aka Ring Brothers style build (one of the Mt. Everests of detail and precision). This car will be street and track driven, so building a 25 carat Tiffany Fox is not practical, nor achievable for this simple Canadian redneck. I do appreciate the psychological evaluation, have been ignoring my meds for years, lol.

Progress Report April 29th:

Cardboard templated the portion of the firewall where the heater box, a/c condenser and all associated lines used to run. Only suitable material I could find was at Lowe's .063" checkerplate aluminum...holy bananas - a little piece cost over $ 50 ....fail on my part......



Mocked up with 10 ARP 12pt stainless bolts and washers in the spirit of a real build, final situation will have full firewall Dynamat + Dynaliner, liquid tight connectors for wiring and possibly instrument feeds. Also thinking about a bulkhead -4AN fitting for the fuel pressure gauge feed from the yet to be installed Autometer fuel pressure isolator, courtesy of my pal Suki with the Termi swapped emerald green notch.



Also made an appropriately sized and oriented aluminum fuel pressure regulator mounting bracket for the Mallory. Sadly there is only one OEM bracket orientation, and no way to rotate the base. On top of that, this thing leaked at 3 of the NPT threads when first installed, so I don't want to mess with anything else.
Works great, nice and quiet and looks decent too, methinks.




All mocked up, still need to make and install a -8AN return line and then figure out where and how the isolator, feed lines and other wiring and signal lines will all sit and run through the panel. Need to sand the firewall side of the contoured panel for the final finish; final installation will also include a sealing gasket yet to be made.

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post #194 of 208 Old 05-11-2017, 08:00 AM Thread Starter
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Summit Racing supplied some more bling


and chill
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post #195 of 208 Old 05-13-2017, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
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Approx same surface area, 33% thickerer, full alum construction, natural fnish, dual pass design with internal turbulators to cut through the oil film for increased thermal transfer. Using -10 AN lines and connectors, so there is a couple of pounds of weight savings as well compared to the old design and -12AN hose setup.





Will be using .125" alum mounting plates with MSD rubber isolators on the cooler; going to try to use clamp connections on the tubular rad support. Mounting location will be low for maximum airflow at speed.
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post #196 of 208 Old 05-14-2017, 10:07 AM Thread Starter
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The -12AN used previously was restricted by the cooler and take off port sizes, so -10 will be fine. I basically mimicked the Maximum Motorsport cooler setup, other than the cooler is a little smaller, also re-using existing parts. If I was buying all new, i would just get their thermostatic setup......gulp....for over a grand CAD.

A little progress yesterday, got the front fuel feed and return lines all done and connected, next are the pressure take off, isolator and gage lines.


Cut and fitted a little brace in order to protect the wheel bearing while knocking out the OEM wheel studs.


Installed 3" long Moroso studs with the correct knurl size - no drilling necessary.


Anther 10.5" wheel with 315 tire mock up, this time on the front of the altered wheel base MM front suspension using a 3/4" hubcentric spacer.....which is exactly too small........






Even once the front end is cambered and castored to max, I don't like the idea of the tire that close, so a 1" Eibach hubcentric spacer will have the short studs knocked out and be secured using the Morosos and the wheel on one set of extended high strength studs. The wheel turns fully both direction, but on full droop, so there may still be some issues forthwith. Will have to wait and see once the front fenders and flares are installed to see if this will all work.


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post #197 of 208 Old 05-14-2017, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
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Eibach 1" Hubcentric Spacer .....check
5 mtg studs knocked out.....check
315 tire now clears the coilover comfortably, and that is without ride height or camber being set properly. May still need some adjustments once everything is setup; but the steel fenders can be pulled out 2 or 3 inches at the bottom without any issues to provide clearance during turns. Looks like this can all be made to work......I hope.

The plan is for the top of the tire to just tuck inside the flare. I believe the NT01s grip hardest at app 2.5* negative camber, so that spec, along with 5 or more degrees of caster is in this cars future. Guessing zero or +1/8 toe is what will finish the alignment specs once the ride height and spring rates and corner weights are finalized.




Looks like the front end will be dropped app 1/2", the rear app 1", so the car should have a very slight rake, with a really slammed and really wide presence. Starting to see it take shape is therapeutic.



The altered (extended 1.5") wheelbase is really obvious here:
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post #198 of 208 Old 05-23-2017, 08:06 AM Thread Starter
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May 24 Long Weekend Update.....eh?

Had some minor surgery last week, so just took it easy. Only managed to putz around a little since. Cobra rear bumper cover and original 1984 tail light lenses are now with John Connery, both getting refinished, the lights are going to be SVO striped, but in matching HoK black.
At his suggestion, scuffed and resprayed the interior tail light housings with a chrome spray paint - should improve the visibiity of the tail, turn and brake lights, along with the 20W oversized bulbs.
Before and After:


Tubular rear crash bar installed:


First time the car has had 315 tires on the front and rear at the same time. Going to look really tough once it's on the ground, sitting at the new, lower ride height, app 1" lower than it used to be.




Going to try and get the alternator mounting finalized, painted and installed next weekend. Then the remaining passenger side underhood wiring and plumbing should get completed. Next up: trunk and wing fitment time before going out for paint/clear coat in early June.

Aug 31 is the DaSilva Racing road course and drag strip customer day; hopefully will be able to do the initial track shakedown that day; even if the interior is still Mad Max. Date is circled on the calendar; hopefully this can happen from both time and financial perspectives.
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post #199 of 208 Old 06-04-2017, 01:13 PM Thread Starter
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June Update:

Ford Racing Boss 302R tow hook modded and fitted:









Also decided to "port" the front fascia for maximum air intake through the lower snout and the upper air inlet. Opened them both up by perhaps 10%, will also be "boxing in" or otherwise directing all the inlet air through the new oil cooler and the radiator module.

Used a die grinder and sander yesterday; looked like I worked in a bakery, lol



The openings are noticeably larger:


Next up will be the carbon splitter fitment and mounting, as well as the rad flap and other mounting scenario to the tubular rad support. Once all that is sorted out the nose can go to John Connery for paint. He did a superb job on the rear bumper cover, which is now safely tucked in the basement for the time being.
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post #200 of 208 Old 06-05-2017, 08:13 AM Thread Starter
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Also clearanced the inner crash bar, one lip really sticks out into the airflow, so that is now gone and smoothed, as is the inside of the bumper cover as shown.






This was a lot more work than it appears, especially trying not to buzz a hole thru the cover or have the die grinder go for a run across the entire outside surface.
Here are some better shots showing the work on the inside of the Cobra R bumper from inside and out:



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post #201 of 208 Old 06-12-2017, 11:24 PM Thread Starter
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Mockup on old GT trunk lid

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post #202 of 208 Old 06-14-2017, 04:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tulowd View Post


Looks tough! I'm used to the offroad world where wheel spacers are "the devil". I had to run a 3/4 hubcentric up front on my car as well to fit the 315s. Its comforting to see someone finding a need for them.
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post #203 of 208 Old 06-16-2017, 12:45 PM Thread Starter
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Thx Wrench; new wheels on order; hoping to be able to use a thinner spacer, but will see when they show up in a week or 2. Stay tuned

In the meantime............Online Shopping Spree, thx Summit Racing and American Muscle; quick and accurate/complete shipping. LMR dip####s won't ship to my US address, so no thanks, especially considering they've screwed me around several times before and it's not like their parts are any different. I will hold my nose when they're the only game in town and have JT order them for me.

OEM Ford rad hoses and rear 3.5" ARP wheel studs:


Various trim and rubber parts:


More ARP bling and some Longacre alum spoiler supports and backing plates that will be used to support the front splitter:


A really big box shipped directly from Griffing Thermal Products (official NASCAR, circle track and King of the Hammers sponsor and primary supplier) in South Carolina:


CU-00165 combo that has been thermally tested as a complete unit - good to 700 N/A hp. They use 1.25" tubes, have a 3" overall core thickness and is the maximum Fox appropriate size out there. Dual 12" SPAL fans (used by Ferrari, McLaren, Porsche etc), a handmade shroud and all the wiring and thermal switch all included. Nice combo and a lot less mooola than the Ron Davis, BeCool and AFCO combos I looked at.


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post #204 of 208 Old 06-18-2017, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
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Happy Father's Day to all

Managed to get a few little things done this weekend before going out for an epic Sushi/Sashimi/Sake lunch with my son today.

Disassembled the cooling module and deburred the entire shroud - razor sharp edges everywhere, but it did look decent.


Cut off and drilled out the overflow spout from the billet water neck and installed a -6AN fitting. Yes, the Griffin rad cap is incorrectly indexed, so i have asked Summit to contact them to get me another, correct one. Don't really want to take this one apart, for fear of creating a junk pile, lol.


Also finally found some suitable rubber matting for airflow control as well as making proper rad mounting pads. A BBQ mat is perfect for the former and a stair rubber cover is ideal for the latter.




After failing to make the OEM rad rubber work, found a use for the holes I had drilled in the rad mounting tabs. Shaved the heads on a couple of Gr 8 5/16" bolts down to about half thickness and welded them to the tab from above. These will be used as pickup points to support the front splitter, the oil cooler frame as well as the X brace tying the k member to the rad support.


Also decided to use some rubber pipe insulation to support the rad frame and seal off any potential airflow between the rad and the tubular support. Every little bit helps.


Doing the layout for the best oil cooler location - central to the dr side fan, and ideally in the airflow from the upper air intake. Will see once the supports are in place how much room there will be left for the -10AN fittings between the top of the cooler and the upper rad support.


Also redrilled the shroud mounting holes for stainless Philips head sheet metal screws instead of the barbaric plain metal tuck screws; will also be ordering 1/2" ARP 12 pt bolts to hold the fans in place.
All the little details should add up to make this look decent.......hopefully.
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post #205 of 208 Old 06-19-2017, 09:01 AM
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If that Griffin Rad Cap is like mine, they just placed a beauty cover over a standard hex cap. In fact, on mine removing the decorative piece makes it easier to cinch down the cap. Then orient as desired.
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post #206 of 208 Old 06-21-2017, 07:03 AM Thread Starter
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Aero Update:

Finally got to having the G Stream 62" carbon wing( G-Stream COMP 800 Wing ) inspected by Aaron of Composites Canada. https://www.compositescanada.com/
They supply carbon materials to Multimatic and Roush, aerospace, naval/nautical amongst other industries. Dealt with him in the 90s for fiberglass materials for door panels and fancy speaker enclosures when I built the Pioneer Electronics fleet of car audio demo cars.

All is well, just needed to scuff the surface around the old 31" mounting holes, as the Fox trunk lid requires a 36" centreline for the uprights.
Scotchbrite pad on the wing, as well as on the wing mounts cleaned everything up quickly. Not: since it is carbon, I wore a respirator while doing this.



Filled the 13 holes with 3 toothpicks each to give the epoxy something to run down on and then cut them flush. Taped off the area and applied clear 5 minute epoxy liberally with a body filler spreader.


Surface came out really nice and smooth/shiny:


Also built MDF end stands so the wing can be prepped and sprayed without laying it on the work surface.


Dropped the wing and carbon end plates off with John Connery for prep, fixing the chips on the perimeter tape and a coat of HoK clear for UV protection and as new finish.
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post #207 of 208 Old 06-24-2017, 10:42 PM Thread Starter
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Weekend Update:

Got the tail lights back with painted stripes and re cleared - they look fab. Also painted the inside with chrome paint for better reflectivity; and got the retrofit seals, body rubber gaskets and new clips.





One more thing out leaving the dining room, lol.

Have had this idea for the oil cooler setup - alum straps with steel brackets welded to the tubular rad support. Was a little more challenging and time consuming than it looks, must have had the parts on and off 25 x. The oil and power steering coolers are both mounted using MSD 1/4-20 rubber isolators for vibration protection. Everything is fastened with ARP 12 pt polished stainless nuts, washers and bolts. Still have to finalize the oil cooler fittings and hose routing, but it's starting to look like a car. Used 000 steel wool and Mother's Alum polish on the oil cooler, brackets and the rad before putting everything together. Everything is totally serviceable, and looks ok, but it's not perfect. Maybe next time, and learned a few things again doing this.

Mockup:


2 brackets made and welded on:


Final Mockup:


Close Up:


Done:


Peekaboo:
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post #208 of 208 Old Yesterday, 08:31 PM Thread Starter
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Overflow tank and AN hoses, rad hoses and water pump bypass hoses all installed...dry.







Still lots left to do, like make upper rad brackets work, need to add coolant and purge, install the fans and wiring, as well as a master control switch and the temp sender, plumb the oil cooler, run all the lines, etc etc.
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