87 Vert Road Race Street Ride - Page 6 - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #176 of 197 Old 02-05-2017, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
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Thx Guys, glad to see some readership on here, despite no hot chix or political discourse, lol

The re-assembly project is a daunting task; especially since I have to decide in what order to refinish and then re assemble the body, all the while taking advantage of easier access to the interior, engine compartment and underneath for the wiring, dash, interior and underhood accessories and systems.

Still need to purchase a new hood, an oil cooler system and full rad setup, as well as a few trim and weatherstrip pieces. Then have to get the wing mounting sorted out, and then have all the body panels prepped and painted.

Going for a visit to PSP to have all the valve springs checked. Also need to deal with removing the ATI damper and fixing the leaky timing cover gasket before re-assembling the front end and new power steering and alternator setup. Also need to hit GT Customs for shortening the center portion of the exhaust by the one inch the motor was set back.

The final project, after the entire car is back together and ready to be driven will be to install the flares, determine wheel spacer/tire clearance and install the big wheel/tire package. Then set ride height, proper alignment, bump steer and corner weighting. Car should be ready just in time for when the autonomous car revolution has taken hold.

Here is the beginnings of the To Do List; which is similar to a Honey-Do list, only more expensive, time consuming and sure to guarantee celibacy, as opposed to an increase in high quality nookie.



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post #177 of 197 Old 02-10-2017, 10:55 PM Thread Starter
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Car went into the booth on Thurs, and has turned out really nice so far. There is still quite a bit of block sanding and polishing left to be done, as well as a couple of spots of touch up and re-clearing in a few spots. Door jambs and trunk area look epic; the quarters need a little more love. Paint looks so wet and deep already.









Removed the hinges from the pass side door and started repairing the cracked beltline trim tonight:




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post #178 of 197 Old 02-11-2017, 06:41 PM
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looking good
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post #179 of 197 Old 02-11-2017, 11:49 PM Thread Starter
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Gracias.

Stripped down the driver's door today; left the regulator and glass installed, but all the trim and wiring is out, ended up finding someone who welds worse than me - whomever at Ford welded the hinges onto the doors! JTs car looks the same, looks like Ray Charles grabbed a stick welder and cranked it on high. Brutal; took over an hour with the die grinde to clean them both up. John will be smiling, since it means he won't have to do it, lol. Some of the trim was Moused into place with a tube of silicone, so there will be some reconstruction happening. One bolt busted off and needed extraction, all the trim rivets spun and melted the discs, so they will need to be replaced. Trim is all decent, so the rubber will be rejuvenated, the plastic will all be painted factory trim color. Not sure about the handles yet, and debating whether to pull off the door bumper guards, as they look pretty good and I hear it's a nightmare to try and refit them later.







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post #180 of 197 Old 02-12-2017, 10:25 AM
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Looking great so far !
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post #181 of 197 Old 02-13-2017, 11:17 PM
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Looks Great!
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post #182 of 197 Old 02-23-2017, 07:17 AM Thread Starter
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Chassis was picked up yesterday. Not perfect, but real nice; paint is deep, wet and dark like Satan's eyes.



Hooked up with my old pal Rob Kerby who used to flat bed all the Pioneer demo cars and the Crankenstein van for me in the 90's.
He's a manager at Abrams now; still a real gear head, altho Chevy and Dodge affliction; despite having owned a couple of hot rod Foxes.


Dave is glad the wreck is out of his hair after 2 months. Only car with a base clear roll bar, paint on it looks better than most cars, lol.
He's doing a 40s era pickup truck next, as well as a 34 Ford and possibly another Fox. Such a good guy and a helluva bass player apparently.
Lives in Grand Bend, conveniently located near the strip and road course, lol.


Delivered to PSP; shop was empty and waiting.

1) Check valve spring pressures to ensure nothing hemorraghed after 2000 km of 6500+ rpm beatings:




All is well, pressures off the seat were all within 5 lbs across the board. Paul's serious race motors get spring pressures tested between runs.
Had a couple of naturally aspirated 410 inch SBF's making over 900 at the crank; incl our pal Ryan Schultz's new nitrous monster. 15:1 comp, I guess they could run on diesel, kerosene or whiskey.

Nuff said, glad this level of expertise and knowledge is embedded in my feeble stock block.

Fun Fact: Edelbrock claims PSP has built the fastest N/A Victor Jr. SBF motor on the planet...... it runs 7's in a Fox.

2) Removed the ATI damper that was stuck on the crank. Added a little bit of heat to the rear of the snout, watched the Snap-On puller frame bend impossibly.........and .....POP!!!...off she be.


No corrosion, so will go back on nicely. Timing cover will get resealed, and the freshly cleaned Victor water pump will go back on.


Everything should be done today, car will be home on the weekend.

Then the real work can start.
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post #183 of 197 Old 02-24-2017, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
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Timing cover, water pump and power steering pump are back on.


The vert got a ride home, now tucked away with the sled that hasn't seen northern snow in 3 yrs.





Working on ordering up some trim and misc parts and also getting organized with what to do next. Gotta strip down the passenger door, lay out the final wing mount locations and matched re-enforcements for the trunk lid. Clean up some more to make room. Start thinking about the wiring and all the stuff that should be done before any re-assembly. Gotta wipe down the car and cover it.
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post #184 of 197 Old 02-24-2017, 06:11 PM
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Just thumbed through this whole build. Cool stuff. I'm looking forward to giving my car a proper paint job. This is definitely inspiring.
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post #185 of 197 Old 02-27-2017, 07:16 AM Thread Starter
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Thx Wrench; if I was in San Diego, the car would be finished. Winter in Canada, while not nearly as brutal as usual, does affect the ghetto build without a proper shop to work in. Neighbors love it when they hear air tools and it's snowing

What a great afternoon yesterday - cleaned up the dust and figured out how to cover and protect the new paint, AFTER a 2x4 brace came crashing down and hit the right rear quarter.......no dent, only a small scuff that will buff out and is covered mostly by the bolt on wheel flare. Ok, now that the first damage is over and done with, can get to working on it.

Flannel, then new moving blankets, then my 30 yr old car cover; clamps to hold it all in place:



Pulled off most of the tape protecting the underhood wiring and started looking at how all that is going to be routed, with new ground connection and 1 wire alternator joining the (new to me) power steering!
Mounted the fuel regulator and carb feed lines, may change a fitting or two here to make it prettier. May have to move the filter into the inner fender, will see when the feed and return lines get connected next.
Going to try and blow in some spray bomb gloss black where the gun couldn't reach, and also buff some of the dull areas that received some clear overspray through the firewall openings, which will also need to get blocked off.
Order a pile of new trim and weatherstripping from 5.0 resto, should pick that up next week.

Oh, and look what I found, lol


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post #186 of 197 Old 03-07-2017, 06:35 PM Thread Starter
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The second door is now stripped down, got some new trim and weatherstripping over the weekend from Fox Mustang Resto. All looks pretty decent, the plastic and metal trim will all be painted Hot Rod Black, the OEM Ford paint.



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post #187 of 197 Old 04-09-2017, 11:08 AM Thread Starter
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Mockup only:
Jendosa 240Z bolt on 3" flare painted carbon House of Kolor, mounted over 1" enlarged wheel opening. 1" Eibach bolt on wheelspacer with 17x10.5" AM Cobra replica wheel and 315/35/17 Nitto NT01 road race tire.
Scratched the clearcoat in a few places, but should buff out fine. Most of the flare mounting holes were filled in and painted, could only get at two of them from the back. Will finish mounting the flare only after the bumper and skirt kit are installed.

Might re do the flares in black, time will tell.

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post #188 of 197 Old 04-16-2017, 09:39 AM Thread Starter
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Got the remainder of the exterior trim back; it is a mix of old and brand new 5.0 Resto stuff. Something like 20 pieces! Now all of it is refinished in Hot Rod Black trim paint by John Connery. Lookin good, especially the brand new steel door handles and the vert hinges. Man, these cars have sooooo many little pieces, and that's only the hard trim, not the weatherstripping or window guides etc. The only thing NOT being painted trim are the door and body side moldings because the front and rear bumper covers have them integrated. So: door handles, mirrors, beltline, door and windshield moldings have all been painted and match perfectly, unlike a lot of the resto stuff that comes in different finishes and also can turn purple from the UV very quickly.
Gonna be a long summer, lol



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post #189 of 197 Old 04-19-2017, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
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Finally got the rest of the G-Stream Wing mounting hardware.


Fuel System #4 started.


Inner dash frame, crank and water pump pulleys are all sandblasted and painted




Rear power window motor ate the three gear torque pins:


And ready to be re assembled. I actually have the pins somewhere, can also use 1/4-20 nuts to keep pressure on the plastic gear against the drive shaft. Easy repair, if a bit messy.
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post #190 of 197 Old 04-21-2017, 07:25 AM Thread Starter
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some bling and restraints for the biatch.........

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post #191 of 197 Old 04-22-2017, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
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Rear Fuel system re-plumbed and mostly wired. Notice the 90* sump drain plug


Pulleys re-installed, have also started to replace all the water pump bolts with the 12pt wherever practical and accessible:


Front swaybar offset 1.5" forward, with alum trim plate:




So not a lot of progress, but at least moving ahead.....
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post #192 of 197 Old 04-23-2017, 01:07 AM
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I dig the ARP hardware. Clear sign of a "every detail counts" kinda build... or at least someone thats the right kind of sick in the head. Keep the picks coming. They're motivating.
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post #193 of 197 Old 04-29-2017, 10:30 AM Thread Starter
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Thx wrench, very kind. Sadly, my skill sets and time frame won't allow this to be a "real" aka Ring Brothers style build (one of the Mt. Everests of detail and precision). This car will be street and track driven, so building a 25 carat Tiffany Fox is not practical, nor achievable for this simple Canadian redneck. I do appreciate the psychological evaluation, have been ignoring my meds for years, lol.

Progress Report April 29th:

Cardboard templated the portion of the firewall where the heater box, a/c condenser and all associated lines used to run. Only suitable material I could find was at Lowe's .063" checkerplate aluminum...holy bananas - a little piece cost over $ 50 ....fail on my part......



Mocked up with 10 ARP 12pt stainless bolts and washers in the spirit of a real build, final situation will have full firewall Dynamat + Dynaliner, liquid tight connectors for wiring and possibly instrument feeds. Also thinking about a bulkhead -4AN fitting for the fuel pressure gauge feed from the yet to be installed Autometer fuel pressure isolator, courtesy of my pal Suki with the Termi swapped emerald green notch.



Also made an appropriately sized and oriented aluminum fuel pressure regulator mounting bracket for the Mallory. Sadly there is only one OEM bracket orientation, and no way to rotate the base. On top of that, this thing leaked at 3 of the NPT threads when first installed, so I don't want to mess with anything else.
Works great, nice and quiet and looks decent too, methinks.




All mocked up, still need to make and install a -8AN return line and then figure out where and how the isolator, feed lines and other wiring and signal lines will all sit and run through the panel. Need to sand the firewall side of the contoured panel for the final finish; final installation will also include a sealing gasket yet to be made.

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post #194 of 197 Old 05-11-2017, 08:00 AM Thread Starter
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Summit Racing supplied some more bling


and chill
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post #195 of 197 Old 05-13-2017, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
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Approx same surface area, 33% thickerer, full alum construction, natural fnish, dual pass design with internal turbulators to cut through the oil film for increased thermal transfer. Using -10 AN lines and connectors, so there is a couple of pounds of weight savings as well compared to the old design and -12AN hose setup.





Will be using .125" alum mounting plates with MSD rubber isolators on the cooler; going to try to use clamp connections on the tubular rad support. Mounting location will be low for maximum airflow at speed.
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post #196 of 197 Old 05-14-2017, 10:07 AM Thread Starter
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The -12AN used previously was restricted by the cooler and take off port sizes, so -10 will be fine. I basically mimicked the Maximum Motorsport cooler setup, other than the cooler is a little smaller, also re-using existing parts. If I was buying all new, i would just get their thermostatic setup......gulp....for over a grand CAD.

A little progress yesterday, got the front fuel feed and return lines all done and connected, next are the pressure take off, isolator and gage lines.


Cut and fitted a little brace in order to protect the wheel bearing while knocking out the OEM wheel studs.


Installed 3" long Moroso studs with the correct knurl size - no drilling necessary.


Anther 10.5" wheel with 315 tire mock up, this time on the front of the altered wheel base MM front suspension using a 3/4" hubcentric spacer.....which is exactly too small........






Even once the front end is cambered and castored to max, I don't like the idea of the tire that close, so a 1" Eibach hubcentric spacer will have the short studs knocked out and be secured using the Morosos and the wheel on one set of extended high strength studs. The wheel turns fully both direction, but on full droop, so there may still be some issues forthwith. Will have to wait and see once the front fenders and flares are installed to see if this will all work.


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post #197 of 197 Old 05-14-2017, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
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Eibach 1" Hubcentric Spacer .....check
5 mtg studs knocked out.....check
315 tire now clears the coilover comfortably, and that is without ride height or camber being set properly. May still need some adjustments once everything is setup; but the steel fenders can be pulled out 2 or 3 inches at the bottom without any issues to provide clearance during turns. Looks like this can all be made to work......I hope.

The plan is for the top of the tire to just tuck inside the flare. I believe the NT01s grip hardest at app 2.5* negative camber, so that spec, along with 5 or more degrees of caster is in this cars future. Guessing zero or +1/8 toe is what will finish the alignment specs once the ride height and spring rates and corner weights are finalized.




Looks like the front end will be dropped app 1/2", the rear app 1", so the car should have a very slight rake, with a really slammed and really wide presence. Starting to see it take shape is therapeutic.



The altered (extended 1.5") wheelbase is really obvious here:
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