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Old 01-10-2013, 03:14 PM   #281
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Wow! I just checked out your for-sale ad and I'm shocked at how similar our car setups are. Throughout this process, I've been thinking that I'd be pretty happy to get into the 11's on motor - but now you have me dreaming of breaking into the 10's. I'm not sure I'll quite make the hp you do though ... your heads outflow mine by bit (309/224 vs. 291/195 @ .600") and you have 24 more cubes. We're running about the same cam - but I'm running 11.75:1 with flat tops. So I shouldn't be too far behind. Ehhh! I'm dreaming. Never mind. Love your car. Hope you get a quick sell. Your vids are sick BTW.
Thanks, Mike

I think you will have a 10 second car for sure. If it would ever stop raining, I would get this car back to the track and get some passes where it should be...which I figure is mid-10's on motor. I have not had a ton of interest in the car yet, but it is "holiday bill paying time" right now, and people are somewhat tight. I figure the car will sell, and enable me to move on to the next great thing (sarcasm flag on) when tax returns start rolling in. LOL.

I basically throw a camera in this car every time I drive it.

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Old 01-10-2013, 04:00 PM   #282
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Thanks, Mike

I think you will have a 10 second car for sure. If it would ever stop raining, I would get this car back to the track and get some passes where it should be...which I figure is mid-10's on motor. I have not had a ton of interest in the car yet, but it is "holiday bill paying time" right now, and people are somewhat tight. I figure the car will sell, and enable me to move on to the next great thing (sarcasm flag on) when tax returns start rolling in. LOL.

I basically throw a camera in this car every time I drive it.

Mike
I hope you're right. Of course, I guess I shouldn't get too wrapped-up in the x~time=success or y~time=failure equations. Whatever it runs, it's still REALLY cool that we can build something in our garages - for a few thousand dollars - that can give a $1M Enzo a run for its money in the quarter. I can't wait to get out there!

I'm sure your car will sell. Just be patient - and don't give it away. No matter how awesome your car is, it's still a limited market for this type of car, so it will take time. Not everybody is looking for a snarly little drag car - as it probably wouldn't be so practical for family vacations or daily commuting. Nonetheless, there's a buyer out there who wants turnkey 10's ... and racing season is just around the corner.
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:17 PM   #283
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I hope you're right. Of course, I guess I shouldn't get too wrapped-up in the x~time=success or y~time=failure equations. Whatever it runs, it's still REALLY cool that we can build something in our garages - for a few thousand dollars - that can give a $1M Enzo a run for its money in the quarter. I can't wait to get out there!
I think it will be very rewarding for you. Especially since you are building it all yourself. That first solid pass will be very gratifying!

Mike
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Old 01-11-2013, 05:05 AM   #284
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Fixin' to Install the Tranny ...

Got back from the trade show and my batch of parts were waiting for me. So tonight it was finally time to liberate my motor from the engine stand. I monkey’d around with the chain lengths a bit – to make sure I would have enough tilt on the leveler. Then I jacked the engine up just a tiny bit and unbolted the stand. Whooo! It’s been a while since my motor has been swinging free, September 8th to be exact (the day I got the block back from the machine shop). So this is something of a minor milestone.





With the engine now freed from its bonds, I took a minute to measure the height needed to clear the grill. Then I jacked the motor up to make sure I had enough height. All checked out OK.





With the motor now patiently waiting on the chain, I turned my attention to my transmission. I bought that transmission last summer, when I thought my “turnkey” engine was ready to drop and run. So it has been gathering dust during my long detour. I pulled the parts from the cabinet to review … the SFI 157 Tooth Flexplate, the 8” 4,200 Stall Converter, the blockplate, the load spreader ring, and the hardware. Check! This should be a piece of cake. I’ll have this wrapped-up in a couple hours.



My block plate appears to be the OEM variety, but I’d never really paid attention to how bitched-up it was – or I might have ordered a new one. Basically it’s been hacked up and raced before, presumably, but I think it will still work. I took a few minutes to bang out the dents and clean it up. I know a block plate is a part that doesn’t show … but I just couldn’t stand to put that part in there with overspray and rust all over it. So I wheeled it down and gave it a little shot of flat black. Much better!






Next I pulled out my flexplate (28 oz.) and that load spreader ring. As you may know, the bolt patterns on the flexplate, spreader ring, and crank are offset – so the holes only line up one way. There are six holes, but they're not evenly spaced 60 degrees apart. The offset is subtle - but it's certainly there. This is to make sure the flexplate's balance weight is oriented in the right spot. So you can’t just install this thing like a tire. I had to keep turning the load spreader ring around and around until I found where the holes all lined up – then I marked both pieces. I did the same with the crank – aligning the ring until all the holes lined up and then marked the orientation. Easy enough!







Once everything was marked, bolting up the flexplate was a snap. I added some sealer to each hole (my engine book said oil can seep back through these holes and recommended said procedure). Then I torqued the bolts down to 85 ft-lbs in steps – and in a staggered pattern. The flexplate seemed to draw in nicely. It was kind’a awkward though, because I had to hold the engine with a breaker bar in one hand, and turn the bolts with my torque wrench in the other hand. I’m sure I looked retarded – hunched over and sprawled wide – but I was alone. A small price to pay … it looks pretty cool all bolted up.



Now came the hard part … the torque converter. I have studied the torque converter “seating” procedure for some time. As most of you probably know, you cannot mount the torque converter to the flexplate first. If you do, the transmission will die a quick death. The torque converter must be seated in the transmission first – and you must rotate and push the torque converter back until the pump drive indexes and the converter fully seats (the two-clunk method I guess). When it’s done correctly, the converter WILL NOT touch the flexplate when the transmission is bolted into place. Basically, the distance from the outer edge of the bellhousing to the torque converter MUST BE GREATER than the distance from the flexplate holes to the block plate. If not, the torque converter is not properly seated and/or the parts are not properly matched. To do this right, you must draw the torque converter up to the flexplate with the retaining bolts. If the torque converter is already touching the flexplate when the transmission is bolted onto the block – it’s wrong.

The directions that came with my torque converter stated that the torque converter should be 1/8” to 3/16” from the flexplate. So it was time to install the converter, but not before pouring in the all-important quart of tranny fluid into the torque converter first. Surprisingly, this took longer that I expected – as the fluid trickles out of the spline housing through two little seep holes on the sides. You pour a little in – and wait for the bubbles – then pour a little more in – more burbling and so on. I got it in there. Then I lubed up the transmission splines, and rubbed a little slick'em on the seal. Ready!



With the transmission in Park, I slid the converter onto the spline and slid it back. Then I began slowly rotating while applying a little inward pressure. The first rotation yielded nothing, so I added a little jiggle motion on the next rotation and THUNK! The converter plopped in one step. Awesome! I kept going. It took several more rotations and some pretty good jiggling, and then – THUNK! The converter moved in some more. I think that’s as far as it goes, but just to be sure, I rotated and jiggled for another half-dozen turns.

With the converter seated, I decided to measure my distances before actually going for it. From the flexplate hole to the block plate was .825” and from the bellhousing to the converter face was 1.005”. That gave me a clearance of .180” … or about 3/16”, just what my directions indicated. Brilliant! I’m not sure if that’s lucky or good, but I’ll take it.





I fashioned a little stand for the transmission, and sat it behind the motor. My plan is to use my hoist and leveler so that I don’t have to yank, pull, grunt, and jam things around. With a few pumps and twists of the leveling screw, I should be able to coax these two pieces to a glorious union … but not tonight. My business trip included a little more Maker’s Mark than it should have – and I’m not sure I’m running on all eight cylinders tonight. This is a pretty important moment. I think I’ll save it for tomorrow – after I get a few more rounds of Advil.




~
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Old 01-11-2013, 05:20 AM   #285
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I just learned something...Did not know you had to bolt a converter up like that...

So once the union is complete, how do you get the bolt on the converter to the flexplate secured? Through the starter hole?
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Old 01-11-2013, 05:41 AM   #286
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I just learned something...Did not know you had to bolt a converter up like that...

So once the union is complete, how do you get the bolt on the converter to the flexplate secured? Through the starter hole?
No. Normally there is an inspection plate that you can remove to access the converter bolts.
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Old 01-11-2013, 06:42 AM   #287
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My auto transmission FU is weak...
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Old 01-11-2013, 08:43 PM   #288
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Mike, you have done a great job keeping many entertained. a very detailed experience, you have more patience than i could ever hope for. keep up the good work!
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Old 01-11-2013, 10:43 PM   #289
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Mike, you have done a great job keeping many entertained. a very detailed experience, you have more patience than i could ever hope for. keep up the good work!
By patience is a prince persuaded, and a soft tongue breaketh the bone. And if you live out in the country and have to get everything by mail-order, it's a darn good thing. Thanks Brad. Appreciate the kind words.
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Old 01-11-2013, 10:50 PM   #290
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sure thing Mike, it re-sparks my desire to change out my vert top and frame....ugh
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Old 01-12-2013, 01:56 PM   #291
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Chicken Feathers ...

It's 2:00 PM on January 12th, and it's 68 degrees outside - a rainy miserable 68 degrees - very strange. Inside the garage it's paradise though. I have all afternoon and evening to myself, and if things go well, I may set that motor down into the car tonight. I still have a list of things to wrap up first (mounting trans, installing some fittings/plugs, wrapping my headers, and getting the car turned around and jacked-up). But today MAY be the day.

I have to get this done soon. It's infiltrating my dreams. I wake-up having dreamt about my engine - sometimes it's good - sometimes not. Last night I dreamt my engine wouldn't start because the headers were clogged with chicken feathers. I'm not sure what that says about my psyche, but I think I need to get this motor in the car while I still can.

Here we go (cracking knuckles) ...
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Old 01-12-2013, 03:28 PM   #292
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I really wanted to work on mine today, but instead got suckered into taking down christmas decorations all day. time for a nap...Then I may get some work done on my 8.8 shell...
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Old 01-13-2013, 02:15 AM   #293
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So Close I Can Taste It ...

First thing tonight … I would like to recognize Mr. JR Miller from Dynamic Racing Transmissions. I bought my transmission package back in the summer, but I called him yesterday with some questions. They were just little things (how to calibrate the dipstick, start-up procedures, handling burs in the pilot, bolt torques, etc.) that perhaps anyone who buys a racing transmission should already know … but JR went out of his way to be very helpful. He immediately pulled up my old order and even referenced some of our old emails. I’m not sure if he really remembered me or not, but that’s how it seemed. Best of all, he DIDN’T take the opportunity to belittle me for asking such basic questions. If there’s anything that gets under my skin, it’s a tech that needs his ass kissed before he’ll help you. After speaking with JR, I came to the same conclusion I did back in the summer … Dynamic Racing Transmissions is a class operation and JR is a real professional. I doubt I’ll ever shop anywhere else for tranny parts.

OK. With due credit given – it was time to get to work. The first thing I did was polish up the pilot on the crankshaft. It had a few burs and was a little gunky. When I test fitted the converter, it didn’t go in freely. It stuck a little. So JR suggested I polish the paint off the converter nose and polish the surface of the pilot. So I did. Afterwards, the converter slipped in there nicely – still pretty tight – but turning freely.



Next I seated the converter in the trans, but as an insurance policy, I ran a thin piece of wire through one of the converter mounting holes and tied it around the back of the trans. This was to make sure the converter couldn’t slip forward while wrestling the trans onto the motor. The plan worked out great. Once I had the bellhousing totally bolted on tight, I then removed the wire. The torque converter turned freely and was about 1/8” from the flexplate. Perfect! As I had hoped … I brought the torque converter to the flexplate with the bolts. So I’m 100% confident my converter is seated in properly now. I torqued the bellhousing bolts (50 ft-lbs) and then the converter bolts (30 ft-lbs.) with a little Loctite. Fortunately, the starter hole provided an easy access to the bolts, so I didn’t have to lay down and get them from the bottom (and lay under the engine & trans now dangling from 4 little pieces of chain on a $179 Harbor Freight hoist).





Next I got to work on the starter. This should have been a simple two-bolt affair, except the previous owner(s) had butchered my blockplate a little. The section of blockplate around the starter was AWOL. So I either had to trim the plate a little more and mount the starter directly against the bellhousing – or make a spacer. I took a few measurements and determined that either would work, but since my instructions said to keep the blockplate “to avoid starter or flexplate damage,” I decided to make a spacer. Fortunately, I had some plate steel to match, so I just cut out a little bracket and then bolted her up. Hard to believe this tiny little starter can turn this engine. I hooked up my jumper cables to a battery – just to give it a try. It worked like a charm – engaged immediately – motor turned over nicely – no strange grinding or noises. And the bendix disengaged as soon as I bumped the balancer forward a little. OK. Moving on.









As usual, I had managed to get half my tools out over the last few days, so I took a few minutes to put tools away and sweep up. My next task was to turn the car around, and it would be a lot easier with things picked-up and off the floor.

After a little cleaning, I grabbed my jack and put the car up on a set of skates. If you don’t yet have a set of skates, you should put them on your Christmas list. They make maneuvering a car a piece of cake. I can actually get four cars in my garage using skates. I love it! Once I had the car pointed the right direction (and close to the tool boxes), I took the car off the skates and jacked the rear-end up as high as my jack would allow. This will give me a better angle for installing the motor and transmission together. Once the tail of the tranny is in the tunnel, I can drop the rear-end and – theoretically – the motor should just glide into place. We’ll see …







I’m planning to wrap my headers before I install them, but this seemed like a good opportunity for a mock-up … just to be sure the headers fit with no surprises. So I grabbed a handful of header bolts and stuck the headers on the motor. The starboard side clears beautifully – couldn’t ask for anything better. The port side was pretty good too … except for one little spot. As you can see in the photo, the header gets a little close to my shifter linkage. The ball-snap connector might rub a little there. So I marked it for a little BFH’ing, which I’ll do on the bench. I won’t have to mangle it too badly, a nice ½” dent with a ball peen hammer should do the trick.







It was getting on to about 10:30 or so, and I still had a handful of jobs left to do. I need to wrap those headers, install the temp and oil pressure senders, install the speedo sensor, and plug the unused holes in the intake (see those cool red anodized plugs – booyah!). I was really – REALLY – hoping to set the motor in tonight, but I would rather not rush this. I’ll come back tomorrow after church and give it another go. It shouldn’t take too long to finish these last few things up. THEN I’ll be ready to drop. Sorry I was slow today. Seems like I went at it hard all day but didn’t get much done. It was one of those time-warp days I guess … plus my Rheumatoid is acting up.



~

Last edited by mikeaway; 01-13-2013 at 02:17 AM.
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Old 01-13-2013, 08:26 AM   #294
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Exclamation

Now would be the time to open up the collectors on your BBK long tubes. They are really restrictive at the ball and socket area. Also, take a real good look at the primary port area at he headers with the header gaskets you have. Are you using the Oval header gaskets? I had purchased some Mr. Gasket Copper gaskets to use. Once I placed the gaskets on my Avenger (Victor. Jrs. Copies) heads, I saw how much of a port restriction they were. (Your will really be surprised how much of a mismatch they are. I cleaned up the welds inside of my BBKs and even switched to a Fel-Pro # 1415 header gasket. Of all things, the gasket fit best upside down! Here are a few pics for your eyes:






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Old 01-13-2013, 10:28 AM   #295
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I'd recommend going with the felpro gaskets also. The copper ones pictured wouldn't seal on my macs, too thick to crush properly.

Btw, what is Ypsituckian?
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Old 01-13-2013, 01:33 PM   #296
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What not install the headers and drop everything in as one?
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Old 01-13-2013, 02:17 PM   #297
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What not install the headers and drop everything in as one?
Thinking about giving this a try. I think it will work. Heading back out in an hour. Will update ...
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Old 01-13-2013, 02:24 PM   #298
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Btw, what is Ypsituckian?

~Glad someone asked~

“Ypsituckian” is kind-of my ethnic/cultural group. Both sides of my family are pure Eastern Kentucky (banjos, moonshine, overalls, mountain-folk, etc), but I was raised in Ypsilanti, MI (pronounced “ip” not “yip”). During World War II, large numbers of people moved from the poor coal fields of Kentucky to Ypsilanti to work in the bomber factories – and later the automotive factories. Ypsilanti – particularly the “East Side” - still has many residents who trace their roots to Kentucky and other Appalachian mountain states.

But here’s the dig …

Ypsilanti is a college town (Eastern Michigan University) and a neighboring city of Ann Arbor (University of Michigan), so the “other” side of town tends to be the liberal elite – the artists and poets - the professionals. Our side of town was the rednecks and factory workers. So the term “Ypsitucky” was mostly a disparaging nickname synonymous with poor white trash. To be called an Ypsituckian wasn’t a compliment – yet many with Kentucky roots ultimately embraced the term.

Since my parents moved from Kentucky to Ypsilanti, and I grew up to move from Ypsilanti back to Kentucky … my DNA has made the full circle. I’m practically a double Ypsituckian. The word describes me spot-on perfectly. If it really means poor white trash – then fine. Whiskey Tango it is.

All right … I got to get back to that motor. Yee-Haw!!!
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:36 PM   #299
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Slow Progress ...

I think I may be getting the flu - so sit back while reading this. I don't want you to catch it.

I was hoping that Sunday would be the big day. With only a few little jobs to finish, the motor would surely be sitting in the car by day's end. But you know ... I'm learning that building a custom/race car isn't a bolt-up-and-go affair. It seems everything has a "but" or an "option" or an "if then" scenario to consider. I think we have to remember that these cars and drivetrains were originally designed by teams of highly skilled engineers (don't laugh) and every hole, every bend, every angle, every shape, and every fastener was specifically designed to work a certain way. So when a country bumpkin, like me, comes along and tries to re-engineer the whole works in his garage - problems and challenges are to be expected.



Case and point ... I went to install my new electronic oil pressure sending unit. Not a surprise - it didn't fit. Sure, the fitting was the right size, but the body of the sending unit was way too big to fit the space. Dang it! Another trip to Lowe's. I Googled the problem, and found I'm not the first to have it. Apparently, this is a known issue for the Autometer sending unit and a 351w, and many people have devised workarounds with T's, elbows, and remote mounting techniques. I have to admit, this burns my butt a little. This block has been around since 1969, why isn't Autometer aware that their part doesn't fit? Why did my expensive kit not include an adapter? Why do I have to be the one to figure out how to make THEIR part work? Simple. This isn't the part Ford designed to work on this motor, so I'm being punished for tinkering with their engineering. Or maybe I just have bad luck. Either way, now I have to go shopping for fittings - and I'm not happy about it. I know complaining won't fix the problem, but it makes me feel better.



While I was wrestling with said philosophical injustice, my wife got to work wrapping the headers. It was a rare pleasure to have her in the garage today. Wrapping those headers seemed like a job for her. She's very meticulous and neat - plus she's pretty crafty. She wraps an awesome Christmas present (my wrapping jobs suck), so I figured she might do a better job on the header wraps than I could. Turns out I was right. They came out really nice - at least the one on the starboard side. I bought 200 ft. of header wrap - which I thought would be PLENTY. But it took 130 ft. to complete one side. Wow! So I'll have to order a couple more rolls to do the other side. See? Nothing is easy on this project.

Speaking of re-engineering, the theory on these header wraps is that they reduce under hood heat AND increase exhaust gas velocity. As soon as the exhaust gases leave the head, they begin to cool. As the gases cool, they lose velocity. Heat transmits very quickly through metal, so as the exhaust gases enter the exhaust manifold or header, much of the heat escapes into the engine compartment and this loss of heat slows down the flow of the exhaust gas which reduces the scavenging effect in the cam overlap. In that brief moment where both the exhaust and intake valves are open (the overlap), the theory is that the rush of escaping exhaust gases creates a little vacuum that helps to start sucking the intake charge into the cylinder. So the faster the exhaust gases move, the more of a sucking action they create in the overlap. By insulating the headers with exhaust wraps, this should keep exhaust gases flowing at maximum velocity.

With all that said, I'm not sure I totally buy this theory. If it were so beneficial, why aren't wrapped headers standard on all engines? Less heat under the hood and better engine efficiency is good, right? Surely Ford's team of highly skilled engineers know this information. Are they just lazy? Is it too expensive? I just don't know. But in my shadetree wisdom, I've decided to go with wrapped headers because they're obviously better ... and they look badass.



I also popped in the electronic speedo sensor into the tranny. Aside from wrestling to remove the plug (like a freeze plug) that Dynamic had stuck in the hole ... this was pretty easy. In fact it was the only easy item of the day.



Bolting these headers onto the manifold was a MAJOR PITA! Even with the engine hanging on a chain - with easy access - getting those eight header bolts started almost caused me to have a conniption fit. I wrested and tugged on those headers for two hours. They just wouldn't line up exactly. Unlike a SBC, the Ford headers aren't on a flat plate - they're individual runners - and they flex and distort just a little. So I would pull this one and push that one. Lift this one a little and drop that one a little, and the bolts ALMOST lined up. I'd get six, but two wouldn't go. Then I'd take it all back apart and try again. Then I'd get seven, but one wouldn't quite go. I was trying to be careful so as not to damage those aluminum bolt holes in the heads, and the header wrap material made it even tougher - as it would bind my bolts a little. I kept trying over and over with no luck ... so I went to Plan B.



I had a nice set of ARP header studs, so I thought they might work better. I ran the studs in, and then popped the gasket and the header on there with no drama. Awesome! I was about to feel proud of myself, until I realized that my hex nuts wouldn't fit. The clearance for the header fasteners is very tight. In fact, the header bolts are kind'a a specialized fastener, with a small rounded flange - and they just barely fit (not even enough room to fit a socket around them). So the hex nuts wouldn't even come close to fitting on the studs. DANG IT! DANG IT! DANG IT!

So back to Plan A. This time I got out a couple of my long sliding clamps, and pulled the little bits of distortion out of the header alignment before going in. It wasn't easy. It took several more attempts. But in spite of feeling like a cat trying to take a poop on a marble walkway, I finally got all eight bolts started. Thank the Lord! I tightened the bolts down with some little 7/16" hand wrenches and called it a day.

I would have NEVER NEVER NEVER gotten those headers bolted on with the motor in the car. NEVER! In fact, I've made another decision. If this motor/tranny/headers combo won't drop in as a complete unit, I would rather unbolt the suspension and the k-member than take those headers back apart. Seriously! If I have to bring the k-member up to the motor vs. bringing the motor to the k-member ... then so it shall be. Nobody could pay me to remove those header bolts right now. They're on there and they're freakin' staying on there ... plus I feel like I might throw-up. Flu sucks!

Last edited by mikeaway; 01-14-2013 at 01:53 PM.
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Old 01-14-2013, 04:12 PM   #300
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If those are the BBK headers, I can tell you that I have dropped and replaced them in the car several times now. It was not super easy, but not that bad. I hope you don't have the Flu. I had something, not sure if it was the Flu, but it kicked my ass for two weeks. I actually had to break down and go to the Dr. five days into it....

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Old 01-14-2013, 04:17 PM   #301
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You could of used a ratchet strap or even elongate the mounting screw holes for additional clearances or adjustments to help out on the header mounting install. Also, sorry about header info I posted earlier. Thought you were using BBK's not the Macs that you have. to Great Build!

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Old 01-14-2013, 04:23 PM   #302
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Also, sorry about header info I posted earlier. Thought you were using BBK's not the Macs that you have. to Great Build!
No, not at all. That was good info. I checked that immediately. My gaskets weren't the oval type, and they fit the headers perfectly. Oddly enough, the openings in the header tubes were just a touch larger than the ports on the heads. So I think they're as open as they can get. To be honest, I'm not sure what brand they are. How can you tell they're Macs?
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Old 01-14-2013, 05:39 PM   #303
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The Macs do not have a plate that joins the primary tubes together vs. BBKs that do. So the BBKs will stay in their position and not move after they have been through a heating cycle Here is a pic of the BBKs:.

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Old 01-14-2013, 06:21 PM   #304
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The Macs do not have a plate that joins the primary tubes together vs. BBKs that do. So the BBKs will stay in their position and not move after they have been through a heating cycle.
Dang! Man knows his headers!

Tell me, what's the "preferred" brand of headers? I mean ... if every Mustang enthusiast could afford the "most badass" headers on the market, which ones would it be? Are the Mac's considered junk? Mid-grade? Sorry, I'm old and have no cool header fu. My headers kind'a came with the engine.

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Old 01-14-2013, 06:38 PM   #305
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If Macs would add a primary tube spacer plate to keep them in position. Alot more people would buy their headers. Best header in my opinion is a truly Custom Set to your application. In other words, have someone make a set for your car specifically. I had Kooks before and they hung down Way Too Much! I have hear good things about Hooker Super Comp Headers. I hear Accufab make a really good header also. Dynatech make a 1 3/4" header that steps to a 1 7/8", think you have to use a adapter plate also.
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Old 01-14-2013, 07:14 PM   #306
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Accufab has really came a long way in custom headers...When im ready to buy headers for my car, they will get my business.
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Old 01-20-2013, 05:10 AM   #307
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GerrrrrrrrrrANAMO!!!

I had a couple things to finish-up on the motor. I had to wrap and install the second header and install my dipsticks on the motor & trans. As you can see, I applied a little BFH to that one header to gain more clearance around the shifter linkage – worked fine. OK!












What’s left? I looked around for a minute, then realized - there was nothing left to do - except have some Ramen and tinker with the engine leveler. But that little brick of noodles only goes so far. Upon sucking in the last slurp, I faced the inevitable. I was out of jobs; I was out of parts. No matter how nervous I was about the task, it was time to drop the motor. Months of work and planning – countless hours of research - I don’t even remember how many thousands of dollars – and today was finally the day.

I won’t bore you with the step-by-step operation of the crane and leveler. But I took my time – a little push here, a pump of the jack there, a tweak of the engine leveler, rinse, repeat, adjust, try, retry. An inch or two at a time, the engine and tranny went down like a Kardashian at a private Rap party. Instead of recalling this frame by frame, I prepared this animated sequence for you – think of it as interpretive dance.



As the motor safely touched-down into the k-member, I couldn’t help but feel a little proud. Of course, it was 1:00 in the morning, so I had to just be proud by myself – but that was OK. The good news is that everything almost fits – and almost aligns. The bad news is that it’s not good enough yet. The passenger side header is trading paint with the back bolts of my k-member – and the motor is neither square nor level. In fact, it looks like crap. I never actually aligned the k-member. I just bolted it up (many months ago). So tomorrow I’ll have to get serious about adjusting all this.

The motor is sitting low on the driver’s side. The motor is not straight – the transmission tailshaft doesn’t quite align with the transmission mount (about ½” off). And the headers may require some more BFH to clear on the passenger side frame and k-member. I also have a bunch of other clearances to check under the car. I work on those next time. But for now … the motor is actually in the car. Gotta say’ … I hardly believe it.









~
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Old 01-20-2013, 12:12 PM   #308
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Great to see it in there! How long before you fire it up and make some noise?

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Old 01-21-2013, 01:53 AM   #309
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Great to see it in there! How long before you fire it up and make some noise?

Mike
~

Not sure. It's supposed to be really cold here next week. My ready-heater can keep up in the 30's or so ... but when temps get into the teens, it's hard to stand it out there.

But weather not withstanding, I have a few jobs left: install carb, linkage, fuel pressure regulator, plumb it all in, pressure test, etc. Then I'll have to mount the radiator and work out the hoses, do the tranny cooler, run some cooler lines, put in the driveshaft, the distributor/wires/plugs, hook up some sensors, etc. I also have to work out my shifter linkage, and hook up that neutral-safety switch I forgot about. Fill up some fluids, charge the battery, tighten down the alternator, etc.

They're all pretty minor things. I'll just bang at them one at a time. But I'm not too far from making noise. Booyah!!!
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Old 01-21-2013, 03:12 AM   #310
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I dread the point you are at right now...Putting together the motor process and bolting it all together seems pretty straight forward...Im so worried about forgetting something, or something not working properly when it comes time to turn that key over.
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Old 01-21-2013, 02:25 PM   #311
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I dread the point you are at right now...Putting together the motor process and bolting it all together seems pretty straight forward...Im so worried about forgetting something, or something not working properly when it comes time to turn that key over.
Amen to that! Butt hole will be at maximum pucker during first start-up.
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Old 01-21-2013, 03:23 PM   #312
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Great thread! Major props to be able to handle it the way you did.
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Old 01-21-2013, 06:33 PM   #313
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Like a Glove ...

As I mentioned before ... my motor was in the car but with problems. Corvette Terry joined me and we spent some time analyzing how/why the motor wasn't lining up. We concluded that there were two separate problems: the header clearance issue on the passenger side, and a slight k-member misalignment.

Since installing/pulling the motor is actually quite easy with the hoist and leveler, we decided to yank the motor back out and attend to both issues properly. We had the motor back out in five minutes. Next, we jacked the body of the car up and removed the front tires to relieve the tension on the k-member. The k-member has a little adjustment - not much - but we loosened the bolts and basically rotated the k-member counterclockwise with a couple strategically placed ratchet straps. Then we bolted it back down tight. It didn't move much at all, but we only needed a fraction. The transmission mount was only misaligning by 1/2", so a very small change in the motor mounts would yield large change at the tail of the tranny (we hoped).



We had marked the headers and body where they needed attention. So Terry got to work gently massaging the headers with a 32 oz. ball-peen, and I rounded off the offending corner of that k-member bracket. I also removed my excess bolt length and ground everything down nice and smooth. Incidentally, if you don't have a high-speed angle grinder - go get one before you cut another piece of metal. I bought an angle grinder a couple years ago, and I can't believe how often I use it. I can't believe I lived without one for so long. Anything a hacksaw can do, an angle grinder can do in just seconds. Give me an hour, and I could cut a Ferris Wheel in half with my angle grinder. I love that thing. I also applied some careful BFH'ing to the body ... and we were ready to drop the motor back in.



Just like before, the motor/trans/headers combo slipped right in there. It took about 15 minutes to get it all wiggled down in there - until the motor mounts hit home. BAMM SUCKA'S!!! This time things looked GOOOOOOOOD! The motor was perfectly level to the body, the transmission mount lined up fine, and the headers were clear (though not by much, I'll admit). Fabulous!!! We loose-assembled all the fasteners, checked everything one more time, and then torqued it all down for good. MY BRETHREN ... THE MOTOR IS INSTALLED IN THE CAR. We smacked the front tires back on and let the car down to get a good look. Ahhhhh!







Terry and I stood and admired the work for a while. This motor looks mean! I still have no idea if it's going to run or not ... but it does look menacing. I'm so proud. I'd love to hit the key and give her a try right now ... but as you can see, there are still several jobs to complete. It will take me some time to get everything plumbed and wired up. I'll just start pecking away at those jobs this week. I have all the parts for most of these tasks - like setting up the ignition - but the fuel and coolant lines I really couldn't measure until now. I'll have to make/order those parts as I go. So I'll just be patient and work it through. I think I'll probably install the driveshaft and finish up the transmission wiring and linkage first ... and then work my way forward. Yahoo!


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Old 01-22-2013, 01:25 AM   #314
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GIGGITY! Looking good brother, almost home!
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Old 01-22-2013, 10:35 PM   #315
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my gosh, I wish I had half of your attention to detail. Great job
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